[Profile] timot_one

[timot_one]

Well, if I go with CP, they will be 10.5:1.  If I go with off the shelf pistons, they will be Wiseco 10.2:1.  Both companies have a pretty decent reputation.  I'm pretty sure I have everything figured out for the bottom end and head.  I'll be getting my new head by the end of the week.  

I was able to get the block on an engine stand last night and tear it down a little more.  I pulled off the water pump and some of the other little accessory stuff from the block.  Next, I'm going to flip it and pull the oil pump and work on clearancing the k20a2 oil pump.  After that I need to pull the girdle so I can get the pistons and crank out.  Then the block will be ready for the machine shop to get honed and hot tanked.

I think I'm going to focus on the bottom end first, since that will cost the most to build.  I want try and have all the parts ready for the rotating assembly by the end of the year.

[timot_one]

I didn't realize this until now, but ERL is only a 3 hour drive from me.  I may have to drive my block down to Indiana to have them sleeve it and assemble the bottom end.

[Rushzer0]

Do it! Aha that's awesome! Then add nitrous to the mix and really turn up the power!! That or have a super dependable boosted K either option sounds great!

[timot_one]

I've made the decision that I'm going to have ERL sleeve and assemble the block.  I don't think nitrous is going to be an option.  I'm already going to be spraying meth.  I'm waiting to hear back from ERL to talk to them about what the best options will be.  I'm probably going to spring for the MPx90 also.  I just need to start putting money away for the bottom end and the new supercharger.  I'm still going to try and have an aftercooler fabricated for the new supercharger too.  Hopefully, with the bigger more efficient blower, additional cooling mods, and the water methanol injection, I will make decent power.

[Rushzer0]

Nice! In for results aha! Have you looked into the rotrex superchargers? They can make pretty silly power one guy (Jaydee) is making 600+ on the k24 in his atom. Only downside is it replaces your AC compressor :p. Which meth kit are you thinking about? I haven't done to much research into meth yet? Any suggestions for companies?

[timot_one]

I know the rotrex kit is a great way to make power, but I'm being realistic.  I already have a manifold for the MP62 that's on my car.  The MPx90 reuses that manifold.  On top of that, it's not a track car.  It's a comfortable driver that's faster than your average Accord.  I'm never going to ditch the ac.  If I really wanted to go for high hp numbers, I'd go turbo.  I'm just not crazy about how high hp aftermarket turbo cars drive. 

I'm using the AEM water meth kit with an AIS tank.  I've only run the lines and mounted the tank and pump.  I haven't run the water meth yet.

I'll have to keep updates for my build.  Currently, I'm having a pretty hard time getting ERL on the phone to talk to them about building my bottom end.  As much as I want to have them build the motor because of the reputation they have, I can't bring my business to a company that doesn't answer the phone or return my phone calls.  I may start looking for another machine shop and engine builder.

[Icebox]

there is a simple solution for another machine shop and builder, you know him personally, only downside is he is in leesburg va.

[timot_one]

Yeah.  Paul was my first choice, but the distance makes it difficult.  I wanted to assemble the bottom end myself at first, but I'm not that confident that it will be as reliable as I would want.  I can go to ERL and back in less time that it takes me to get to Paul.  I may just have it machined and sleeved locally, and then assemble the bottom end myself with the help of a friend that knows what they're doing.

[B.R.03EX]

I know of an engine builder in the area but i'm pretty sure they only do Ford and GM V8's. George's Speed Shop in Dayton. George Montgomery owns and runs it. I personally know their main mechanic that builds the engines there. I don't know if they have a machine shop or not but you might want to look into it. I know they've worked on an E46 M3 before (I think they did a turbo setup on it; that thing was fast hell) so they might be open to engines other than GM and Ford, i'm just not sure.

Other than that, I know there is Dayton Performance (I think they also specialize in Mustangs) and Ault & James Speed Shop (who I know absolutely nothing about).

If it were me, I would probably go with ERL as well. It looks like they know what the fuck they're talking about when it comes to K-series engines.

[timot_one]

I'm going to keep looking around.  I'll give ERL a week, because I know shops get busy.  What concerns me is that they haven't answered their phone in the past 3 days, nor have they returned my call after I left a voicemail message, and they have not replied to my email.  I also have a friend that works for Honda that may know of someone local.  Either that, or I just go to Zerolift Autolab down near Cincinnati.  They're an ERL authorized dealer.  I can just buy a built bottom end from them and give them an Accord block that I have for a core.

[timot_one]

Seth from ERL Performance called me today.  He explained that he was out of town.  We spoke about a few options and I'll probably go with either their I1 or I2 short block package.  They said I could come down and they would give me a tour of the shop.  I'm probably going to wait until January when I actually have some free time to take the block down there.  It should take about 12 weeks to machine, sleeve, and assemble.  I'm going to see if they're cool with letting me come down just to watch the assembly so I can learn.

Now all I need to do is start getting parts for the valvetrain.  I just need new valve guides, valves, valve stem seals, valve springs, retainers, and keepers.  Then get the head ported and polished and have it machined.

[timot_one]

Here's a few pics from the rest of the tear down of my block.

This is my new k20a2 head.  I just got the bare head and rockers since it was a damn good price.  It had a bent valve, so one of the valve guides is damaged.  That will get replaced when I get it ported and polished.  So far it's been glass beaded and hot tanked.

Here's a shot of the oil pump before I pulled it off and split the motor to pull the pistons and crank.

Here's my motor all torn apart.  There's another shelf full of parts that's cut off at the top of the picture.  You can also see my other K20A2 head and my old tranny case off to the right.

Here's the bare block now.  I've gotta get it ready to drive down to ERL to get it sleeved.


Here's the pistons.  I'm going to remove the pistons and have the rods checked.  I may be able to save them for another build, or sell them to fund this one.

Here's the block girdle.  You can easily see in the following pictures that the bearings are scored.

[neoryan7]

Dang Tim. Things look good otherwise

[timot_one]

I started disassembling my K24A4 today too.  It'll take up a lot less space in my garage that way. 

All I have to do now is plan a trip down to ERL to drop off the block to have it sleeved and assembled.  It's a 12 week turn around time, so that'll give me plenty of time to clean and paint all of my accessories and nuts and bolts.

[timot_one]

So, I've finally decided on most of the parts for my build.  I'm still debating what I want to get for a few of the smaller details, but here's the basic rundown of what I'm going to be building.

K24A2 Block
ERL Performance Sleeves 88mm Bore
ERL Performance Superdeck I Block Guard
ACL Bearings
ARP Main Studs
Manley Rods
Wiseco 10.5:1 Pistons
K20A2 Oil Pump
K20A2 Head
Port and Polish
Ferrea Valve Guides
Ferrea Valve Stem Seals
Supertech Dished Black Nitride Intake Valves
Supertech Dished Inconel Exhaust Valves
Supertech 80 lb Valve Springs
Supertech Titanium Retainers
Supertech Retainers
IPS KSC '11 Cams
Hybrid Racing Tensioner
K20A2 Water Pump & Oil Cooler
Magnum Powers MPx90 Supercharger

Parts still on the maybe list
Toda Timing Chain
Toda Oil Pump Chain
Tilton Clutch Master Cylinder
Tilton Hydraulic Release Bearing
Competition Clutch Super Single Stage 5 Clutch