EliteCM.net

About Me:
Real Name: Timothy
Location: Troy, OH
Occupation: Regional Account Rep / MECP Licensed Installer
Interests: cars (import, euro, muscle, classic); music (listening, playing, writing, recording); audio systems; cooking

About My Car:
Model: 2003 CM55 LX
Color: Satin Silver Metallic
Engine: K24A2
Tranny: CL9 6MT

News:
The head was dropped off to get ported and polished on 03/11, after that it will be going to the machine shop to get the valve guides honed, a valve job done, and will be decked.  I should be picking it up when I get back from my vacation.  I also received my block back from ERL Performance on 03/15.  When I get everything back, I'll be claying the motor to figure out if I can use an OEM thickness head gasket, or if I need something a little thicker.

Current Mods:
Engine/Drivetrain
AEM CAI
RSX Type S Throttle Body
Comptech RSX Type S Supercharger
3" Pulleyboys Supercharger Pulley
J.Mercado Aftercooler (removed to test Noribilt Aftercooler)
NoriBilt Prototype Aftercooler
Front Mount Heat Exchanger
AEM Water/Methanol Injection
IPS KSC '11 Cams
K20A2 50º VTC Gear
OEM Lightweight Exhaust Cam Gear
Hybrid Racing Timing Chain Tensioner
Aeromotive FPR
Braided Fuel Lines
Hybrid Racing Fuel Rail
RC 750cc Injectors
Hasport Intake Manifold Adapter
4-1 SS custom header with 1 7/8" primaries
Magnaflow 3" Metal Spun High Flow Cat
3" Mid Pipe with Magnaflow 30" resonator
2.5" Magnaflow Mufflers (dual)
OEM TSX Exhaust Tips
Comptech Short Shift Kit
Shortened Shifter
Solid Brass Transmission Bushings
RSX Type S 14 lb Flywheel
Competition Clutch Stage 4 Clutch
TSX 6 Speed Transmission
OBX LSD
Hondata KPro
Modifry Yellowjacket
AEM UEGO Wide Band O2 Gauge
AEM Oil Pressure Gauge
AEM Boost Gauge
PLX DM-200 60mm Gauge
PLX DM-200 OBD 60mm OBDII Gauge
PLX SM-AIT sensor
PLX SM-FLUID sensor

Suspension/Brakes/Wheels
Tein Comfort Sport coil overs
Comptech 22 mm rear sway bar
TL Type S 27.5 mm front sway bar
Ingalls front and rear camber kit
Neuspeed front shock tower bar
OEM V6 6MT front shock tower bar
Cusco Type II chassis brace (removed for header clearance)
Ichiba v2 15mm spacer (for front Buddy Club wheels to clear RL calipers)
Buddy Club P1 Racing SF 18"x7.5" +42 wheels (summer)
BF Goodrich g-Force Sport 245/40/18
Enkei ZR2 18"x7.5" +42 wheels (winter)
Bridgestone Blizzak LM-25V  225/45/18
Acura RL 4 Piston Calipers
Rotora 13" Rotors (front)
Rotora Honda Pilot Rotors (rear)
EBC Yellowstuff Pads
Rear Drum to Disc Conversion

Exterior
35% tint all around
'03-'05 ASEAN Accord Grille (custom painted)
Shaved Door Moldings
OEM Wing Spoiler
OEM HFP Coupe Front Lip
OEM HFP Coupe Rear Lip
TSX Mirrors
Shaved Honda "H" / Accord / LX badges from trunk

Lighting
OEM Housings retrofitted with S2000 projectors
Philips Gen3 ballasts w/ Philips 4300k D2S bulbs
HID kit with 5000k bulbs (high beams)
1st Gen MDX Fog Lights with DDM HID kit with 3000k bulbs

Interior/Electronics
Civic Type R Shift Knob

ICE
Multimedia
Alpine IVA-W505 7" Multimedia DVD h/u
Alpine P1 Navigation
Alpine PXA-H701 5.1 Dolby Pro Logic II & DTS Surround Sound Processor
Alpine VPE-S431 Video switcher
Alpine KCE-415i iPod Video Interface
Alpine TUAT020XM XM Tuner
Apple 6th Gen 160 Gb iPod Classic
Apple 5th Gen 60 Gb iPod Video
Sony DVX-11A DVD player
Reverse camera in tail light key hole
Sony XVM-R75 7" Motorized Flip Down Monitor (headliner) (x2) disconnected
Sony XVM-H65 6.5" Monitor (headrest) (x2) disconnected
Sony XVM-H6 5.8" Monitor (sun visor) (x2) disconnected

Amps
McIntosh MC431 4x100 watts (out for repair)
McIntosh MC440 2x100 watts + 4x50 watts
McIntosh MC443 1x300 watts @ 4Ω

Speakers
Elemental Designs e3.6 6.5" Midbass Subwoofer (doors)
MB Quart QM215.61Q 5.25" Midrange (kick pods)/1" Tweeter (sail panel)
MB Quart QM218.61Q 6.5" Midrange/1" Tweeter (center channel)
MB Quart QM215.61Q 5.25" Midrange/1" Tweeter (rear deck)
JL Audio 13TW5 13" shallow mount subwoofer

In Progress:
Engine/Drivetrain
My New Engine Build:
ERL Performance K24A2 Sleeved Short Block w/88mm bore
ARP Main Studs
ACL Bearings
Manley Turbo Tuff Rods
CP 11.1:1 CR Pistons
K20A2 Oil Pump
Honda Oil Pump Chain
K20A2 Head w/Light Port and Polish
ARP Head Studs
Cometic Head Gasket
Ferrea Valve Guides
Ferrea 6000 Series 35mm Intake Valves
Ferrea 6000 Series 30mm Exhaust Valves
Ferrea 105lb Valve Springs
Ferrea Retainers
Ferrea Retainer Keepers
IPS KSC '11 Cams
K20A2 50º VTC Cam Gear
K24A4 Exhaust Cam Gear
Honda Timing Chain
Hybrid Racing Timing Chain Tensioner
Circuit Hero Lower Timing Chain Guide
'07 Civic Si Upper Timing Chain Cover
K20A2 Water Pump
K20A2 Oil Cooler
Hybrid Racing Oil Cooler Hoses
Hybrid Racing Coolant Hoses
Hybrid Racing 74mm Throttle Body

Suspension/Brakes/Wheels
Work CR-KAI 18"x8.5" +43mm

Exterior
ASEAN Front Bumper and Grille (waiting for paint)

Interior/ICE
Alpine TME-M740BT 7" Touch Screen Monitor molded in the OEM upper dash mount

Future Mods and Plans:
Engine/Drivetrain
Eaton/Magnum Power MPx90

Suspension/Brakes/Wheels
Ultra Racing Chassis braces

Exterior
Mugen front lip

Lighting
TL headlight retrofit with custom molded bezels
FX headlight retrofit in blackhoused '03-'05 Inspire housings
LED tail light retrofit

Interior/ICE
Alpine PKG-M780 Dual 7" monitors (x3[sun visors/front seat headrests/rear seat headrests])
Alpine PKG-RSSE2 10.2" monitor w/DVD player (x2[headliner])
New Trunk Set Up

Car History:
Bought used with 27k on it in July of 2004 from Honda Village in West Newton, MA (worst dealership ever).  It replaced my 1991 VW 16v GTi.

In the beginning of December of 2004 I was hit by an inexperienced driver that didn't understand the concept of stop signs, turn signals, or which cars had the right of way.  She t-boned me as I was turning left in front of her, which caused damage to my left rear door and quarter panel.

Within the first month of owning my car, I have been upgrading the audio system.  It has been evolving slowly since then to what it is right now, but is still far from completion.

Pictures:
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Car%20Meets/2010%2010%2009%20S2000%20Accord%20Wash/DSC_0250.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Car%20Meets/2010%2010%2009%20S2000%20Accord%20Wash/DSC_0272.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Car%20Meets/2010%2010%2009%20S2000%20Accord%20Wash/DSC_0278.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Car%20Meets/2010%2010%2009%20S2000%20Accord%20Wash/DSC_0287.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Car%20Meets/2010%2010%2009%20S2000%20Accord%20Wash/DSC_0327.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Car%20Meets/2010%2010%2009%20S2000%20Accord%20Wash/DSC_0359.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Car%20Meets/2010%2010%2009%20S2000%20Accord%20Wash/DSC_0375.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Car%20Meets/2010%2010%2009%20S2000%20Accord%20Wash/DSC_0415.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Car%20Meets/2010%2010%2009%20S2000%20Accord%20Wash/DSC_0421.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Car%20Meets/2010%2010%2009%20S2000%20Accord%20Wash/DSC_0438.jpg)

Superb profile Timmy.

I've modified this nasty bitch! On more than one occasion

Awesome profile Tim!  Your car is looking great!

I've ridden in that nasty bitch, hurry up and finish your TL retro already jeez slacker.

Nice list of audio!

I need to update that list and add a few new pictures.

Mod list updated.  New pics posted.

Tim, the ride looks suber duber. I'm going probably copy the coupe lip as now it caught my attention.

I stole that idea from Skippy.  When I saw the coupe lips on his car, I had to have them.

The idea is not bad, its just. I'm thinking of either swapping bumpers with a coupe or just putting the coupe lip on alone.

The coupe front bumper will not fit very well.  You're better off just using the coupe front lip.

Would the bumper need major modification, or something simple like the coupe lip fitting on the sedan bumper?

It just won't fit properly since one is wider than the other.  I forgot which though.

ohh snap....coupe lip it is

Nice profile tim. I had forgotten hot hot your car was. This is a money shot all day:

(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/October%202008%20NY%20Meet/2926927305_93bc54a0bb_b.jpg)

Tim's audio system is balling! I can't wait to hear the finished product!!!

I'm going to be updating the audio system this weekend.  I've abandoned the 8"s in the doors.  It's just not practical for my application and I will be fine with the 6.5"s I have for midbass speakers.  I may upgrade to a DLS 3 way set with a 7" midbass, but that's the limit.  I will have my 5 channel set up very soon.  In a few more weeks, I'll have my 5.25"s in my rear deck.

Hopefully I'll be moving a few of my mods on my "waiting to be installed" list, to my "current mods" list.

Just look below!!!


That is going to sound bad ass bro, cant wait for you to get into my build so I can be ready for the summer SPL heads in Washington Heights… I however would also like to glass in some 8’s or 10’s in the front door panels.

Since my door panels won't be going in my car, I can finish my door panels if you want to buy them.

If you really want an impressive SPL system, I can build you a box that will improve your output.  If  you can afford the space in your trunk, I would suggest either a ported or bandpass enclosure.

Ha  Ha, that’s a good one Tim; LOL   I have no trunk space at all at the moment, well you have seen what is in there now.  

PS. We can talk about that “$“ when I am up there…

Did some audio upgrades today.  List updated.  Removed the BK Butler TBD-475 and installed a McIntosh MC431 (4x100 to front speakers) and MC440 (2x100 to rear speakers).  I don't have anything connected to the 4x50 watt channels of the MC440 yet, but they will be used soon.  I also tuned and time aligned my new set up.

Never knew you had a 6-mt in a sedan. Thats pretty cool.

Yes, there are actually a few members here that have swapped their 5MT for a 6MT from a TSX.  Best mod I've ever done.

Speaking of mods, I did a little bit of work on my car last night.  I replaced the H11 connectors on my fog light harness with 9005/9006 plugs for the bulbs in my MDX fog lights.

Car's lookin great Tim. Lovin those headlights. The chrome turn signal, white reflector and black projector shroud is definitely a look I will rock one day when I get the balls to do a retro.

I can't wait to see your car w/ the Inspire headlights... are you planning on putting a rear lip?

It's too bad you are not driving to Skippy's. I would of loved to check out the ride...

I already have the rear lip on right now.  I haven't really posted any pictures because my Greddy Evo2's don't sit well in the cut outs.  I'll post pics when I get my Magnaflow's installed.

As far as the Inspires are concerned, they will take a while before I install them.  I'm planning on taking them apart so I can blackhouse them, and possibly retrofit the high beam reflector.

I wish I could afford to drive down there.  I just don't have the time to make the trip.  It takes me 2 days travel time each way.  I would rather spend that time relaxing since I only have a week off of work.  Trust me, it would be awesome to drive down there though.  PhillySteve was asking me to build enclosures for him, and if I drove, I could bring down my tools to do the work.

I don't think any 7th gen Accord aftermarket exhausts were made with rear lips in mind. Mine looked real bad after install and I eventually had to have the exhaust modified. I'm sure you have something similar planned for yours, Tim.

HAPPY B DAY !!

Considering that my aftermarket exhaust was designed for a V6 Coupe and I have an i4 Sedan, I wasn't expecting it to fit without modification.  On top of that, I have a coupe HFP rear lip.  Either way, custom is the only way to go with a sedan.


Thanks man.  I wish it was a good day.  So far the day pretty much sucks.

Tim, we are still on for Sunday right?

Happy Birthday!!!

Yes, we're still on for Sunday.  I'll call you about it later today.

Happy Birthday Tim!

+1 to that! I'm considering Inspires as my next lighting mod but that would be a while from now.

so what is it you're doing with the inspires? are you switching the cut off shields or something?

Read my mod list.

Man Tim you gotta shit load of mods in that CM, I'm gonna need a second job just to catch up.
Nice indeed.

Thanks man.  You should come up to the dyno day meet that I'm planning for the summer and see it in action.  They've got a 1/4 mile strip so anyone that wants to go at it is more than welcome to challenge me on the track.  I'm also hoping that Cham will have his 500+ WHP Accord out here by then too.

Tim on the track hmmm...

Well the truth is my CM doesn't race, if anything ever happened to it my wife would definitely hang me by the balls, OUCH!
I would definitely go up to see the races though, keep me informed about the date.

I think my favorite part of your car is the fogs.  Your the first person I've seen with MDX fogs, they are hot!

That's just one of the things that is different from Levi's car

I absolutely love your car, if not for the fogs....i will be waiting to see those inspires on, make sure to take many pics. Ill make sure to come up during the summer.

Simple, clean...I likes, the fogs look good BTW.

Mod list and pictures updated.

bout time mang....lookin good Tim

its kinda off topic... but i think they spelled GAS wrong on that pic in your sig =p

but nice car btw!

I guess you missed the point of my sig then.  I was pointing out the shitty translation on Buddy Club shocks.

just make sure you keep that away from frame.

Their Engrish is reary bad.

Buddy Crub for the fail.

I did find the substitution of Ls for Rs quite comical and stereotypical at the same time!

Thats funny as shit Tim! haha I just noticed the spelling in your sig.  

Update with some newer pictures and a "news" section with the current plans and shit.

About time you let the cat completely out of the bag! It sucked keeping quiet with your shit Tim. LOL. BTW, nice pickup on the K24A2. I can't wait to see what you'll put down with the new engine.

(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Comptech%20Eaton%20M62/DSC_0008.jpg)
I know this location!

This will literally be the nicest CM around when all the work is complete. It will be the complete package.

Bold words Mike. We'll all get there someday.

I found out about this when it was accidentally posted which Tim deleted the post. I'm pretty impressed with this latest mod of yours. I wonder what will be next Tim

Read the "news" section in my profile and you will see what's next.

You are still missing a couple cylinders there Timbo.........

nice tim, thats hella of an upgrade man, i see your getting rid the side protective molding and shaving the rear. When will the car be finish?

Damn Paul.  The 2nd reference about me having an i4.  Are you sad that Derrick is not doing the J swap any more?  Mark, I have no idea when it's going to be finished.  As of now, my time and energy is being focused on the motor.  The body work and paint is going to have to be done in between or after.

Lol, about time   , what kind of IM cover do you have?

Is it this one?

http://www.corsportusa.com/store/catalo ... ts_id=4414 (http://www.corsportusa.com/store/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=4414)

No, I had the Comptech CF IM cover for a little bit.  I took it off since it gets in the way of me being able to use a fuel pressure gauge on my fuel rail.  Function over fashion.  Who needs an intake cover anyway?

good stuff tim, ive been waiting for this update for a while.

where did you do the dyno tuning?  in the future we should still get something together for a club dyno day, and once your done with the swap with should hit the track ;)

I dyno tuned it at ESP in Sterling, MA.  They have a Mustang dyno, so the numbers read lower than a DynoJet.  I'm thinking about going to New England Dyno in Douglas, MA for the new motor just so I can get consistent results.  As far as going to the track, we'll have to wait until next summer and if I can tear out my interior.

Mustang is generally 13-15% lower than Dynojet as far as nombers, but even then there are alot of factors, stck with where you have been going and just see the gains in the mods as the go.

And as far as the J swap, lol, I am just rsponding to your need for power, 300+ NA WHP and 280+ NA WTQ and 40+MPG on the highway........

The shop owner was explaining that it reads that his Mustang dyno gives numbers about 20% lower when compared to a DynoJet.  After Cham dyno'd his car, he was also saying that it was the first time they ever had a Honda dyno over 300 whp.  After his first dyno pull, everyone got really interested in Cham and wanted to be his friend.  I guess I'll be going back to the same shop then.  I've already built up a relationship with this shop, so I think it would be best to return to them.  I wonder how much of a gain I'll be getting from the K24A2 motor swap, with the smaller exhaust cam, and the M62.  

I appreciate the input on the J swap, but it's not exactly practical for me at this point.  Considering that a K24A4 to K24A2 swap will be pretty damn close to plug and play since I'm already running KPro, it's a no brainer.  What would be the ballpark price to swap in a J series that's capable of 300+ hp with a 6MT and LSD, parts and labor included?  I'm guessing it's a lot more than what I'm paying for a minty K24A2 and LSD since I already have a 6MT, a M62, and pretty much all the parts that you would be replacing for a K to J swap.  The other major factor in this entire equation is the lack of KPro (or any EMS equal to) on a J series.  I can make the same power, with a lighter motor, and more aftermarket parts availability, while keeping the best EMS for a Honda to control everything.

holy shit tim, i havent checked in, in a while. your car is beastly now.

Everything looks good! I cant wait until the bodywork is done. What kind of numbers are you making now and what do you hope to make when your finished with everything? Also, what causes the smoke coming from the back during the dyno video?

LOL, ok, but how about almost 400WHP with the same 6psi you are putting into the K, anyway, yeah with all the work you have done it probably would not be cost effective since the swap would probably end up between $8K-$9K, of course that is not counting what you could sell your K stuff for. As far as EMS, sigh, yes I wish there was anything close to KPro avalible, but the AEM FIC is getting it done for now.

I hear ya Paul.  I'm not saying the J is a bad motor to build, by any means.  I'm just saying that it's not a practical upgrade for my car because of what I started with and what I have invested into my car already.  It's a shame that Hondata has nothing for the J Series like they have for the K Series.  You would be making much more power with your builds then.

Ohh, that's ok, I'll just send Kevin up your way to destroy you off the line from time to time , gota love tourqe......

Hahaha.  I'm ready to go at it when the weather is nice again.  Let's be honest though, torque is great to have if you can put the power down.  The major downfall to Kevin's car is that he still has an AT.  Why don't I come down there next spring and we'll have a little fun on the track?  You have one near you?

daym! i honestly am so envious of your engine set up tim!

Thanks Jowell.  I know I'm not the first SCed K24, but I do believe I am the first SCed K24 Accord.  Right now, I just want to pull this motor to get one with proper VTEC.

Who says he will still be a AT next spring.......

Ooooooh! The powers that be are laying down challenges! I'd love to see this go down.

The conversations we've had lead me to believe that he wasn't quite ready to do the swap.  I'll wait until the spring and then we'll see.  I'm definitely willing to make a run at the track and see who wins.

Even with the AT he'll have you for the first 1/8th mile, after that........

I think Timmy should frank that K24A2 he's going to drop in (http://www.v6performance.net/forums/images/smilies/naughty.gif) (http://www.v6performance.net/forums/images/smilies/peepwall.gif).

Only one way to find out Paul.  My goal is to make about 300-350 whp next spring with the TSX K24A2.  When the new motor goes in, I'll have a K20A2 oil pump, a K20A2 exhaust cam, the M62, and possibly go with a smaller 3" pulley.  I'm currently running a 3.15" pulley that peaks at about 9-10 lbs of boost at 7000 RPM, so I hope the smaller pulley makes more of difference.  I'm not completely up on the efficiency of the M62, but I hope that the smaller pulley and the fact that the K24A2 will have a 7500-8000 RPM redline doesn't affect the performance of the M62.  The main concern that I have right now is the amount of heat generated by the SC.  The Comptech intake manifold is designed in a way that you cannot use an aftercooler, and RedShift Motorsports seems to be in no rush to finishing the development of their intake manifold to adapt the Comptech Eaton M62 with an aftercooler.  It looks like the only way I can reduce my intake air temperature is with a water/methanol injection kit.

Paulius, there's no reason to frank a K24A2.  It already has performance VTEC, which is a step up from the K24A4.  The only point to swapping heads would be to get a better flowing K20A2 head, which would be a marginal upgrade in performance.  If anything, I'll upgrade the valvetrain to rev up to 9000 RPM and get some aftermarket cams.

The real issue with a smaller pully is the spin speed of the blower, the eatons max out at 14K RPMs, what is the diameter of you crank pulley, with a 7K redline you don't want to go smaller than 1/2 the diameter of your crank pulley.

Hey Tim, dont know if u have seen this thread yet, might be worth looking into

http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=679733 (http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=679733)

They are almost done with the after cooler set up for the comp-tech manifold. Email (jmercado) over there for more details. Its pretty similar to the one comp-tech originally made for the kit but where never produced (aside form the 3 prototypes that were made). it will work a lot better then meth injection and will only cost a couple hundred bucks more.

320-350whp can be made with a 11psi pulley (the max psi u wana go on a m62 and not over spin it) and after cooler and seeing how you are going to have a k24a2, that should make things easier.

Paul, I was going to run the stock TSX pulley, but have an under drive crank pulley that I could also run.  

Adi, thanks for the info.  I've already contacted him about the aftercooler set up.  It would be worth it to me to have the aftercooler over water/methanol injection.  It looks like my motor swap just got more expensive.

i hear ya tim. seriously how much is it runnig you now for the sc and what not. i always wanted to do the same. can you give me a break down, if you don't mind.

Well, as far as the cost goes here's a list of the parts that I had to acquire to run the SC with the prices NIB.  I hunted for deals and got the SC for an awesome price when I bought it.

Comptech RSX Type S Supercharger (http://www.ct-engineering.com/store/product118.html) - $3595.00
Hasport K Series Intake Adapter (http://www.jhpusa.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=9&idproduct=2062) - $134.10
RSX Type S Throttle Body - $100-200 (depending on who you buy it from)
or you could use this without the intake adapter and RSX Type S throttle body
Comptech TSX Supercharger (http://www.ct-engineering.com/store/product447.html) - $4395.00
Goodyear Gatorback Belt GTR-4070785 (http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keyword=GTR-4070785&dds=1) - $33.39
Cham's KPro Harness - $300-350 (I'm not sure what the current price is)
RSX Type S Primary A/F Sensor - $250 (holy shit that's expensive)
Hondata KPro (http://www.hondata.com/kpro.html) - $1595 (can also be found for around $800-900 on CRSX or K20a)

You will need miscellaneous hoses and clamps to re-route a few of your coolant lines, and power steering inlet.  In addition to that, I had to tap a hole on power steering pump inlet to re-orient the power steering inlet to clear the snout of the supercharger.  You can use a Honda Element power steering pump if you want to, but it's less expensive to tap the hole that's already on your Accord power steering pump.  In addition to that, you will need to extend 3 wires on your wiring harness.  I forgot what sensor they go to, but I'll get you the details if you need them.

You can also add a few upgrades like I did.
Comptech 3.15" pulley
Acura RDX 410cc injectors
Skunk2 Composite fuel rail
AutoMeter fuel pressure gauge

Where is you WB gauge Timbo............

Soryy, but to me it is a necessity for any serious engine mod to make sure things are running right.

Why do you have two superchargers?

I have a wideband in my set up.  I only posted a list specifically to the SC install.  I would strongly recommend that anyone choosing to do this install also use a wideband air fuel gauge, oil pressure gauge, and boost gauge.  If you're cheap, you can measure your air fuel ratio using KPro with the RSX wideband air fuel sensor and boost in KPro with the stock MAP sensor.

wow! that's loads of $$$'s. thanks for the info tim! keep us updated.

Oh, I thought the or phrase applied to to throttle body component. I didn't realize it was just a different option. Sorry, I read it but it wasn't clear to me.

Reading owns you Bill!

Im a noob, I know but with the understated transition and with the question that it was answering in mind, It was unclear to me. I read it like four times to prevent the noobie noob mistake from happening.

Got something delivered today.  Hopefully I will have more pics up by the end of the weekend.

(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/K24A2%20Swap/enginearrival.jpg)

Hell yeah! Nice dude.

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_EDQ6oIZ43x8/SkOxdgjDHPI/AAAAAAAAAMs/j3p_ZkR6XBg/s400/so_much_win.png)

OHHHHHH boy!!!! I'm excited, and its not even mine!

You guys are lucky that you don't have to stress over the details and shell out the loot.  I'm sure the end result will be worth the pain and suffering I have endured.

Fuck yeah it will man!!!

awsome tim..looks like you got some work cut out for you. i cant wait to see that monster!!

Not yet Tim. Not yet. Oh yeah, it will most definitely be ALL worth it in the end. Even now, you have a very unique vehicle and once you're done, you will be the only one sporting what you have until someone comes along and mirrors your build.

Here's where she was at last night at 1 AM.

(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/K24A2%20Swap/mycartornapart.jpg)

Another update.

(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/K24A2%20Swap/motor2.jpg)

You wanna race right now? Good luck Tim! It looks like a daunting task.

are you doing the swap your self?

Yes, I am doing the swap myself.  It is with a LOT of help from my good friends Skippy who has done a majority of the work and Dominic who has been nice enough to let us use his garage.  Right now, Skippy is doing ALL the work since Dominica and I are at work.  Cham should also be showing up to help out when he has some free time with his busy schedule.

Woah! Skip is in the area? You're swap is in good hands with him and Cham getting dirty. Now I'm EXTREMELY fucking jealous.

YEEEAAAAAH!!!!! nice man, results should definitely be worth it.

Here's an update with some new pictures.  Skippy busted his ass today and got the motor out all by himself.  He also got the new motor prepped and ready to go.  When we got back from work, we pulled the tranny off and installed the LSD when Cham showed up.  After that we removed the TSX cams and installed the ITR intake cam and Type S exhaust cam.  Afterwards, we called it a night and will be ready to finish everything up tomorrow.

The new motor untouched.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/K24A2%20Swap/008.jpg)
My engine bay's current status.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/K24A2%20Swap/020.jpg)
No more open diff.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/K24A2%20Swap/048.jpg)
ITR intake cam and Type S exhaust cam.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/K24A2%20Swap/119.jpg)

I just got a chub.

+1

Awesome stuff Timbo

your my idol tim!

I shouldn't be.  If it weren't for the help of Skippy, Cham, and Dom, I wouldn't have been able to accomplish this.

Awesome Tim. Looking forward to seeing this come to life.  Its also great to see fellow EliteCM members helping each other.

wow supercharga! I LIKE!

From what I hear, I'm the first one to actually pull the trigger on the K24 Accord.  The SC is pretty nice, but real VTEC helps too!

is she back on road yet?

I did his swap a month ago tomorrow.  She's been running like a beast ever since then.

How is the body/paint work coming along?

Huh?  Back on the road?  As Skippy has already pointed out, I've been driving it for almost a month now.  I drove down to NJ and back the day we got it up and running, and I just got back from NY yesterday.  I got my aftercooler and a few additional parts last week, and received my K20A2 crank pulley today.  Hopefully I'll be able to find time to install the aftercooler and my water/meth kit this weekend.


It has been put on hold because of the motor and the holidays.  Life has been too busy lately, for me lately and things aren't going to wind down until the end of the month.

cant wait to go for a ride in it!!!!

Damn, how long HAVE I BEEN NOT POSTING! Good shit tim (i know i'm late; read back a couple of pages)

Damn.  You're back.

foreal?

Yes.

sick.. u car makes me wanna get a supercharger so bad but I auto.. which sucks.

Befriend Ryan.  Are you in FL still, or did you go back to Cali?

Neel I'll be supercharged in the next few months.

I moved back to cali.. I wanna supercharge mine but I blew my motor and right now I dont have enough $$ to buy a supercharger.. whats the best place to pick one up for a decent price?.. what is involved to make it fit on our cars? direct fit or need some modification to make it fit?

really?. let me know how it goes..I wanna do it but I need to save up for one.. I might come by check it out when done if its cool

yeah you can come check it out when its finally done, you blew your motor? what happened? and you can look at crsx they have a few regularly.

k20a has them for sale frequently too.  That sucks about your motor Neel.

Suleman, I hope you know I was fucking with you.

Mod list updated and I've added a few new pics.

such a tease tim! We need up close pics of the engine bay!

I know Ryan.  I have been pretty busy lately, and haven't had a chance to clean my engine properly.  Since my car was in the body shop last weekend, a lot of dust from sanding got everywhere.  I'll try to clean my engine this week and take some pics.

Dear Tim, you should really stop rocking those MI plates, you don't even live here so that I can make use of your audio wisdom......

I come back every now and then.  I'll be rocking MI plates until I move down south.  Fuck MA with them taxing everything under the sun.

hey sir tim, can you explain how you pulled your fenders to increase clearance ? was it just you tugging on it ?

No.  I had my friend, who has been doing body work for 20+ years, reshape them with a dolly and hammer.

Updated with new pics and a video.

Damnit Tim, I want your car!  :flip:

No you don't. That thing is a cow. (http://cdn.ripple6.com/userfiles/90029/Image/smileys/2180_hiding_behind_a_couch.gif)

moooo... :stupid:

I keed I keed

I would have liked to see how its stacked up against that three lug Civic Sunday but, you were to scared to run laps around the state park!  ;D

Yes, she is a fat cow.  I was scurred to run laps. 

It was that Mustang that got you really shook up!

The chach with the convertible 5.0 that revved at us when we were grilling?

LOL yeah

The yellow paint and anorexic girlfriend riding shotgun was at least an extra 250 whp. 

Mod list updated.  Hopefully pics will ensue.

Pics or it didnt happen

What do you want pics of?  The clutch?  The aftercooler that's in TX or in NY?  How about the suspension that I don't have yet?  Maybe you'd like pictures of the exhaust that's being fabricated down in VA?

All 3.

I listed 5 (possibly 6 things depending on how you look at it).  Which 3 do you want pics of?  I've already included a pic of the revised design of my aftercooler.  I guess I could include a pic of my clutch on the motor if you really want.  Other than that, the suspension is in transit and the exhaust is in the stages of being fabricated.  I only have a few pics of the beginning of the race header.

Honestly, I really just like to see pics of your ICE.

So what are you going do to with the Basics and what are you getting to replace them?

Bill, the ICE I have is nothing special.  The install really needs to be cleaned up in the trunk first.  It's not very functional for a trunk set up.  The rest of the install is pretty basic.

Jeremy, the replacement is in the mod list.  I'm getting Tein Comfort Sports.  I was thinking about having the Basic's rebuilt since I know that at least one of the shocks are blown.  Depending on the cost to rebuild them, I'll probably sell them off.

where can i bye that rear lip ? looks great  :-[

great stuf u got in your car , no wonder it looks scary :pPp

If I remember correctly he's got a coupe rear lip.

It says in his list of Mods what the rear lip is if you want to know something please take the time to look for it.

Sorry  ;D missed that

Car is looking sickkkkk Tim, sounds bad ass.

Awesome Tim sounds sexy! 3.15'' pulley?

3" pulley actually.  I've been trying to get my stance to look good, but I can't stop rubbing after I've raised the front and rear.  I think it's time to try and find out if my front wheels will clear my brakes with a 10mm spacer.  Time to go on AcuraZine and see if anyone wants to trade with me.

spacers or wheels?

Spacers.  I already have more sets of wheels that I need.  I really need snow tires if I'm going to be in MA this winter.

I've been looking 18' snow tires aren't the easiest thing to come by.

nice car man that what i look up to for my accord to look aggresstive  O0

It can drive aggressively too. ;D

Aggressively slow

 :D

Not in straight lines. ;)

Man Tim, your sig is intimidating with those wide ass tires!  :jaw:

They're only 245's Jeff.  They look aggressive because I have spacers on so m wheels will clear my brakes. 

Ah, I kind of figured that you would need spacers for that big ass brake setup. Do you have your rear wheels spaced out the same, or are they tucked in more? I know that there's more room in the rear wheel wells.

I should jack the calipers off my grandparent's RL, haha. I'm still pissed about my front pads sucking. I need to get some cash and get rid of those bitches.

I have 15mm spacers in the front and 20mm spacers in the rear so it doesn't look like my car has broad shoulders.  Unfortunately, I rub like crazy still.  I had my rear camber adjusted to -1.5º in the rear, but the front isn't adjustable yet because I have not installed my front camber kit (no press).  I've been holding out on the front camber kit because I would rather get the Skunk2 camber kit, which is like $300. 

Funny thing about it all is that I only need spacers with these wheels.  My other set of winter wheels are the exact same size and offset, but they clear the brakes with no spacers because of the spoke design. 

Updated with newer pics.  I'll probably take some more of my new exhaust today.

Awesome pics Tim, never thought about a Cemetery shoot before. Who's boosted S2k? I think you've told me before

The cemetery was his idea.  That's my buddy Dom's AP1.  He's got a CT SC.

I added a pic of my winter mode.  I'll try and get a few more updates when I have a moment.

Lovin' the shaved side moldings. It's sleek like the coupes now!

Thanks.

Hey tim do you have any closeups of your wheel fitment?

 I have same size rims but +45, and I was trying to gauge how much roll/pull I need to go to 245/40 tires

No close ups any more.  My summer wheels don't clear my calipers, so I have to run spacers.

Going to have a few updates pretty soon.  I'll post again with some pics in the next few days.  I just wanted to give you guys a teaser.  First person to actually spot it get's a gold star!!

(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/2011-09-20001906.jpg)

Hey is that a TL tranny sitting on the cart. Nice finish on the case.

we talking about the cams on top of the cart of that sexy ass powder coated tranny on the bottom?

It's gotta be the cams....

That tranny case isn't powder coated. Its painted. Either way, IPS cams or the painted case.

Actually, it's a TSX tranny.  It's a new (to me) case with the same internals.  It has been powdercoated gloss black.  You guys have seen at least one pic of that though.  Steve wins the gold star.  It's the cams.  They're very special!   :thumbsup:

yup those cams are special and extremely rare!!!  ;)

Only 5 made!

i noticed the ips cams on the shelf. sexy!

Other than being rare, whats the big dealio with ips cams?

IPS cams are known for being very high quality and for making power.  They do a lot of research to make sure they are not only a part that will make power, but also provide engine reliability.  Compare them to the Skunk2 cams which were known for timing chain slap in K Series motors.  A lot of "stage whateverthefuck" cams also put additional stress on the timing chain tensioner causing it to fail.  It wasn't so much that they were high lift cams with longer duration, but it had more to do with the opening and closing ramp profiles.  Unfortunately, IPS has closed it's doors to the public again.  These cams may be the last set ever made.  The IPS KSC '11 cams have a different profile on the low speed cam for better drivability when compared to the original design.  I also know that they are made of a lighter material.  With being out of business, I am unable to get any more info now that their website is down.

After talking to you the other day I searched these cams a little bit. It is a shame that they are no longer in business, from what I have read they look great. Very nice power increase compared to skunk 2 and another one I can't remember at the moment. 

Nice cams! what else are you doing to your car?

Here's a nice updated on the car.  A few weeks ago I got the motor back in and things were running fine when I first fired it up and let it run to purge the air from the cooling system.  Then I drove it to get gas and things were still okay.  The next morning, I went out to get breakfast and things went very very wrong.  One of the intake valves on cylinder 4 broke below the keeper and the valve dropped, causing a bunch of damage to the combustion chamber and piston.  So I pulled the motor and took the head off to find this:

Not a good sign that the valve spring was still de-compressing as I was taking the cams out.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Valve%20Stem%20Damage/DSCN0107.jpg)
You can see that the valve stem and keepers were still in the retainer when I pulled it off.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Valve%20Stem%20Damage/DSCN0109.jpg)
Here's the broken valve stem.  This was definitely the cause of the problem, but how bad is the damage?
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Valve%20Stem%20Damage/DSCN0111.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Valve%20Stem%20Damage/DSCN0116.jpg)
When I pulled the supercharger off, I found more of the valve in my intake manifold.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Valve%20Stem%20Damage/DSCN0117.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Valve%20Stem%20Damage/DSCN0118.jpg)
Here's the extent of the damage to the head.  It's pretty much trash now.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Valve%20Stem%20Damage/DSCN0122.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Valve%20Stem%20Damage/DSCN0123.jpg)
Here's the damage done to the piston.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Valve%20Stem%20Damage/DSCN0135.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Valve%20Stem%20Damage/DSCN0127.jpg)

Now it's time to completely rebuild the motor.  My plans are in the OP.

that sucks!

I was pretty much expecting the damage when I pulled the spark plug and picked up something in the combustion chamber with a magnet.  At least it's a chance for me to upgrade and do a full build now.

yea, but now you have to shell out more money for pistons and a new head.

Very true.  But at least I know that I can utilize the full 50º advance on my intake cam gear and know that I built the block properly.  I already picked up a k20a2 head.  It sucks not driving it, but I'm going to take it slow and set my goals to have it completed by next summer.

damn that sucks Tim, but like you said perfect time for a rebuild with a bunch of upgrades to it  ;)

now are you going to use aftermarket forged pistons and are you going higher on compression the same or lower?

The stock k24a2 internals are forged with a 10.5:1 compression ratio.  I'm going with aftermarket pistons.  I'm going to stick with the same compression ratio, or get as close to it as possible.  I can get CP pistons with a custom compression ratio, but they're $100 more for the set and take about 4-5 weeks.  I'm on the fence about going with off the shelf or custom.  I'll probably go with off the shelf though.

Sorry about the engine but thanks for posting the pics.  Stuff like this is always interesting to see.  GL on the new build

Sorry to hear bout the motor, but happy to hear about the rebuild. CP is a good choice! Also, I'm jealous about the cams aha. Some quality parts up in this build! IMO I'd pay the extra $100 for a custom set of pistons, guaranteed good quality control on them then. CP is a great company but you never know shit happens sometimes...like a valve dropping...freak failure anyways I'm deff following this build! Good stuff!

Well, if I go with CP, they will be 10.5:1.  If I go with off the shelf pistons, they will be Wiseco 10.2:1.  Both companies have a pretty decent reputation.  I'm pretty sure I have everything figured out for the bottom end and head.  I'll be getting my new head by the end of the week.  

I was able to get the block on an engine stand last night and tear it down a little more.  I pulled off the water pump and some of the other little accessory stuff from the block.  Next, I'm going to flip it and pull the oil pump and work on clearancing the k20a2 oil pump.  After that I need to pull the girdle so I can get the pistons and crank out.  Then the block will be ready for the machine shop to get honed and hot tanked.

I think I'm going to focus on the bottom end first, since that will cost the most to build.  I want try and have all the parts ready for the rotating assembly by the end of the year.

I didn't realize this until now, but ERL is only a 3 hour drive from me.  I may have to drive my block down to Indiana to have them sleeve it and assemble the bottom end.

Do it! Aha that's awesome! Then add nitrous to the mix and really turn up the power!! That or have a super dependable boosted K either option sounds great!

I've made the decision that I'm going to have ERL sleeve and assemble the block.  I don't think nitrous is going to be an option.  I'm already going to be spraying meth.  I'm waiting to hear back from ERL to talk to them about what the best options will be.  I'm probably going to spring for the MPx90 also.  I just need to start putting money away for the bottom end and the new supercharger.  I'm still going to try and have an aftercooler fabricated for the new supercharger too.  Hopefully, with the bigger more efficient blower, additional cooling mods, and the water methanol injection, I will make decent power.

Nice! In for results aha! Have you looked into the rotrex superchargers? They can make pretty silly power one guy (Jaydee) is making 600+ on the k24 in his atom. Only downside is it replaces your AC compressor :p. Which meth kit are you thinking about? I haven't done to much research into meth yet? Any suggestions for companies?

I know the rotrex kit is a great way to make power, but I'm being realistic.  I already have a manifold for the MP62 that's on my car.  The MPx90 reuses that manifold.  On top of that, it's not a track car.  It's a comfortable driver that's faster than your average Accord.  I'm never going to ditch the ac.  If I really wanted to go for high hp numbers, I'd go turbo.  I'm just not crazy about how high hp aftermarket turbo cars drive. 

I'm using the AEM water meth kit with an AIS tank.  I've only run the lines and mounted the tank and pump.  I haven't run the water meth yet.

I'll have to keep updates for my build.  Currently, I'm having a pretty hard time getting ERL on the phone to talk to them about building my bottom end.  As much as I want to have them build the motor because of the reputation they have, I can't bring my business to a company that doesn't answer the phone or return my phone calls.  I may start looking for another machine shop and engine builder.

there is a simple solution for another machine shop and builder, you know him personally, only downside is he is in leesburg va.

Yeah.  Paul was my first choice, but the distance makes it difficult.  I wanted to assemble the bottom end myself at first, but I'm not that confident that it will be as reliable as I would want.  I can go to ERL and back in less time that it takes me to get to Paul.  I may just have it machined and sleeved locally, and then assemble the bottom end myself with the help of a friend that knows what they're doing.

I know of an engine builder in the area but i'm pretty sure they only do Ford and GM V8's. George's Speed Shop in Dayton. George Montgomery owns and runs it. I personally know their main mechanic that builds the engines there. I don't know if they have a machine shop or not but you might want to look into it. I know they've worked on an E46 M3 before (I think they did a turbo setup on it; that thing was fast hell) so they might be open to engines other than GM and Ford, i'm just not sure.

Other than that, I know there is Dayton Performance (I think they also specialize in Mustangs) and Ault & James Speed Shop (who I know absolutely nothing about).

If it were me, I would probably go with ERL as well. It looks like they know what the fuck they're talking about when it comes to K-series engines.

I'm going to keep looking around.  I'll give ERL a week, because I know shops get busy.  What concerns me is that they haven't answered their phone in the past 3 days, nor have they returned my call after I left a voicemail message, and they have not replied to my email.  I also have a friend that works for Honda that may know of someone local.  Either that, or I just go to Zerolift Autolab down near Cincinnati.  They're an ERL authorized dealer.  I can just buy a built bottom end from them and give them an Accord block that I have for a core.

Seth from ERL Performance called me today.  He explained that he was out of town.  We spoke about a few options and I'll probably go with either their I1 or I2 short block package.  They said I could come down and they would give me a tour of the shop.  I'm probably going to wait until January when I actually have some free time to take the block down there.  It should take about 12 weeks to machine, sleeve, and assemble.  I'm going to see if they're cool with letting me come down just to watch the assembly so I can learn.

Now all I need to do is start getting parts for the valvetrain.  I just need new valve guides, valves, valve stem seals, valve springs, retainers, and keepers.  Then get the head ported and polished and have it machined.

Here's a few pics from the rest of the tear down of my block.

This is my new k20a2 head.  I just got the bare head and rockers since it was a damn good price.  It had a bent valve, so one of the valve guides is damaged.  That will get replaced when I get it ported and polished.  So far it's been glass beaded and hot tanked.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Valve%20Stem%20Damage/IMG_0078.jpg)
Here's a shot of the oil pump before I pulled it off and split the motor to pull the pistons and crank.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Valve%20Stem%20Damage/IMG_0079.jpg)
Here's my motor all torn apart.  There's another shelf full of parts that's cut off at the top of the picture.  You can also see my other K20A2 head and my old tranny case off to the right.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Valve%20Stem%20Damage/IMG_0114.jpg)
Here's the bare block now.  I've gotta get it ready to drive down to ERL to get it sleeved.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Valve%20Stem%20Damage/IMG_0122.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Valve%20Stem%20Damage/IMG_0123.jpg)
Here's the pistons.  I'm going to remove the pistons and have the rods checked.  I may be able to save them for another build, or sell them to fund this one.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Valve%20Stem%20Damage/IMG_0124.jpg)
Here's the block girdle.  You can easily see in the following pictures that the bearings are scored.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Valve%20Stem%20Damage/IMG_0125.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Valve%20Stem%20Damage/IMG_0126.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Valve%20Stem%20Damage/IMG_0127.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Valve%20Stem%20Damage/IMG_0128.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Valve%20Stem%20Damage/IMG_0129.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Valve%20Stem%20Damage/IMG_0130.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Valve%20Stem%20Damage/IMG_0131.jpg)

Dang Tim. Things look good otherwise

I started disassembling my K24A4 today too.  It'll take up a lot less space in my garage that way. 

All I have to do now is plan a trip down to ERL to drop off the block to have it sleeved and assembled.  It's a 12 week turn around time, so that'll give me plenty of time to clean and paint all of my accessories and nuts and bolts.

So, I've finally decided on most of the parts for my build.  I'm still debating what I want to get for a few of the smaller details, but here's the basic rundown of what I'm going to be building.

K24A2 Block
ERL Performance Sleeves 88mm Bore
ERL Performance Superdeck I Block Guard
ACL Bearings
ARP Main Studs
Manley Rods
Wiseco 10.5:1 Pistons
K20A2 Oil Pump
K20A2 Head
Port and Polish
Ferrea Valve Guides
Ferrea Valve Stem Seals
Supertech Dished Black Nitride Intake Valves
Supertech Dished Inconel Exhaust Valves
Supertech 80 lb Valve Springs
Supertech Titanium Retainers
Supertech Retainers
IPS KSC '11 Cams
Hybrid Racing Tensioner
K20A2 Water Pump & Oil Cooler
Magnum Powers MPx90 Supercharger

Parts still on the maybe list
Toda Timing Chain
Toda Oil Pump Chain
Tilton Clutch Master Cylinder
Tilton Hydraulic Release Bearing
Competition Clutch Super Single Stage 5 Clutch

If I didn't have a j, I would say I want one of those.

Nice list of parts!! Since your going with a port and polish, are you going to get the supertech valves oversized at all? Like 1mm or anything? And what boost levels will you be running?

This thing is gonna be strong as a tank :D

if i were you, i would definitely upgrade the timing chain since you are going to be putting down so much power.

I hear ya David.  That's why the Toda timing chain is on the maybe list.  I think that the timing chain and oil pump chain are going to be moved over to the final parts list.  It's a tough pill to swallow to spend over $400 on 2 chains.  The good thing is that I already have the Hybrid Racing tensioner. 

Austin, there's no plan to go with oversized valves at the moment.  I'm going to talk to the guy that's going to be doing the porting and polishing to see what he suggests.  I wasn't planning on having a valve job done, but it may be an option.  The good thing is that I haven't bought the valves, so if I want oversized, it won't cost me anything extra.  I can't be sure about the boost levels I'll be running, because I don't know of anyone that's running the SC I'm going to upgrade to on a K24.  I do know that on a stock K20 with a 3" pulley, the MPx90 can make about 19-20 psi.  On a K24 with a ported head will probably be a bit lower around 15-16 psi.  Anyway, it's not about the level of boost, it's all about air flow.  I'm hoping to make around 400-450 whp and about 300-350 tq.  I'm not totally sure that is going to be possible though.  We will see after it's built and tuned though. 

All the little stuff adds up though.  I'm planning on replacing a lot of hardware too, which is going to be costly.  I also need to set some money aside for the Hybrid Racing 74mm throttle body.  I spoke to Competition Clutch yesterday and it seems that I'm going to be at the limits of my Stage 4 clutch.  That's why I'm planning on getting their Hyper Single.  I just want to see if I can convert over to the Tilton hydraulic release bearing.  If not, I'll be getting just the Tilton master cylinder and a new OEM slave cylinder.

 ??? Wow, thats going to be amazing once you finish it.

Wow very impressive list you there Tim, I am excited to see the numbers make   :)

i just looked at the Magnum Powers MPx90 Supercharger, very impressive stuff....  and its made to fit already.

Sounds expensive but very impressive cant wait to see that beast on a dyno

Sent from my HTC_Amaze_4G using Tapatalk

My main concern with the Magnum Powers kit is pretty nice because it's a bolt on replacement for the JR and CT-E manifolds.  My concern is how it mounts to the manifold.  If I can reuse the mounting plate that I have for my MP62, I don't have to get an aftercooler fabricated.  If I can't then I'm going to have a new aftercooler fabricated.  Even though the MPx90 is more efficient and runs cooler at the same boost levels, I want to do everything possible to cool down the intake temps.  When winding up the MP62, my intake temps hit 250º at redline and it takes quite a bit of time for them to drop.

E85 burns cooler if you have it in your area. Could help a little.

As a matter of fact, E85 is huge out here.  Corn growin' is a big thing out here.  I'm just not sure if I want to run E85.  I may have them do 2 tunes.  One for pump gas and one for E85.  I'd like to be able to drive my car around and not be tied to the area I live in because of the gas I use.

Your main fule lines are NOT rated for E85 and will eventually develop holes......

That answers that question.  No E85 unless I upgrade the rest of my fuel lines.  Thanks for the info Paul.

I thought you had upgraded fuel lines already? Do our accords have a stock return fuel setup? If not do you plan on adding one? It would be much easier on your injectors as their duty cycle could be lower.

No, our Accords do not have a stock return line.  I have a fuel pressure regulator with a return line.  The stock fuel line was re-used in this set up also.  There's really no need to get rid of the stock fuel line.  It's just more work and more expensive.  I'd only replace the stock fuel line if it was damaged.

Drove to Indiana to ERL Performance today to drop my block off.  I decided to go with their I2 Turbo Race package with 11.1:1 CP pistons instead of the 9.0:1 CP pistons.  I was planning on going with Wiseco 10.5:1 pistons, but Seth at ERL said that CP would be slightly better and the difference in compression ratio would still be safe for pump gas.  In about 12 weeks I'll be very happy and sad.  Happy that I'll be getting a freshly built short block from ERL Performance.  Sad that I'll be emptying my bank account.

I also got a set of Ferea valve guides.  Time to do a light port on the head to clean up the cast slag and then have the valve guides replaced and a 3 angle valve job done by a machine shop.  Then I can start gathering valvetrain parts and start assembling the head.

Updated the OP with current build specs.  I'll probably make a build thread in April when I get my short block back from ERL.

So, I did a little bit of research on the timing chain thing.  A lot of race teams use OEM timing chains.  I was just checking the price difference between the Toda and OEM timing chains, and noticed that in the parts description on the Acura site that it's a Borg Warner timing chain.  That's enough information for me to believe that OEM is just fine for my build.

No need to upgrade the chain. OEM will deff be alright, although for $10-$15 I would pick up the 09+ Civic SI Timing chain guides, they are a bit wider and bigger then other OEM guides and will give a little bit added insurance, that the chain doesn't jump the guide. I mean for less then $20 what-the-hell right.

Yeah, I'm definitely getting the upper timing chain cover thing that's on the head.  I'm also going to get the Circuit Hero lower timing chain guide.  If the SVM SC cams are better than the IPS KSC '11 cams, the lower timing chain guide will help a lot with the cam swap.  I'm not sure if the IPS KSC '11 cams are a stereo design like some of the SVM cams will be.

When are we getting your piece of shit on the road again you prick?  ;D :flip:

Probably after I get the engine block back.  ERL said it should be ready by April.























Douchebag!!

Haha, come at me bro! What are you still doing up this late?  Don't old people go to bed early?

Lol. That's funny.

I couldn't sleep.

what you didnt get enough of your vitamins?  :(

Nah.  I just don't sleep well.

:/ same here..... i cant fall asleep until like 3-4 am, then wake up at 7..... I have Iraq to thank for that...

I'm thinking about picking this up.  I'd be getting a really sweet deal on it too.  Only problem is that it doesn't have the wiring harness, which is a very important part.

(http://www.brockwayengineering.com/pics/accord_tsx_racks.jpg)

Tuff choice that would be a great upgrade how hard would it be to get a wire harness else where? if the price is right i would jump on it

MSRP for the rack is about $1200.  Online pricing is about $900.  I'd be getting the rack for a fraction of the cost.  I think I'm gonna have to jump on it.

EHPS in your future?

I'm a noob, what am I looking at?

The silver rack on top is an EPS (electric power steering) rack out of a Hybrid Accord.  I've been considering picking it up from a guy to see if it will clear my subframe without any modification.  A lot of DC5 guys are actually running EP3 EPS racks so they can remove the power steering pump.  It serves 2 purposes basically.  First, you reduce parasitic losses by removing the PS pump.  Second, it gives you a slightly cleaner engine bay.

What Austin mentioned was EHPS, which is electro hydraulic power steering.  Instead of having a mechanical pump that is powered by your engine, you use an electric pump that is powered by your alternator.  That would be option 2 for me.  I could keep my current steering rack and use a Toyota MR2 electric power steering pump to replace the mechanical pump.

At the moment, I'm talking to the guy that's selling the EPS rack.  He's willing to let me test fit it on my sub frame first before I buy.  I have a feeling that it won't clear though.  He's tried it with a TL and TSX sub frame and says neither one clears.  That makes me think that it probably won't clear mine since the k24 and hybrid Accord sub frames are different part numbers.  Only one way to find out though.  Im gonna give it a shot since I really have nothing to lose but the time spent picking it up and test fitting it.

If you go EPS or EHPS, will deleting the power steering pulley altogether mess up the proper belt wrap for your supercharger? Or are you going to gut the pump, and keep the pulley? Essentially making it an idler pulley with no parasitic loss but still there for belt wrap purposes.

Wow @Tim's last post; I'm learning something new everytime I read this thread.  :thumbsup:  This build is down to the details.  Very impressive Tim.

^^ agreed, good explanation. 

If I do run EPS or EHPS, I would use an EP3 tensioner since that motor has no ps pump. Removing the PS pump would actually give me better belt wrap. I'll try to find a picture later tonight when I'm home. I'm posting from my phone right now.

Here's a picture of a JRSC set up without a PS pump.  Belt wrap on this is much better than how it was with a PS pump.  I believe this is with a modified DC5 tensioner.

(http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i315/erikloza/K24%20project/Blowermock-up.jpg)

I completely forgot about the EP3 tensioner option lol. Good to hear that this mod would have 'even more' positive benefits for you, since your supercharged. Makes me wonder, if you could get a special water-to-air aftercooler fabbed up and then possibly repurpose the PS pump to work as a pump for the water...sort of like this, excuse the hastily drawn diagram :p  (http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j51/rushzer0/54380555.jpg)

The whole purpose of going with EPS or EHPS is to reduce parasitic losses and clean up the engine bay a little.  I already have a water to air aftercooler with an electric pump.  Another thing is that the PS pump is a high pressure pump, which would put unnecessary stress on my aftercooler system.  That's something I really don't want to do.  The electric pump I have is the same Bosch pump that is used on OEM Cobra's.  It's fine for my purposes.  With my aftercooler system, I'm trying to get the coolant temperatures as low as possible.  That's why I have fans on my heat exchanger and why I'm going to be test fitting a 2 gallon reservoir soon.  The larger reservoir will increase fluid capacity and can also be filled with ice, which will help reduce fluid temps.  I'm also talking with Jose Mercado about having a custom aftercooler manifold with a much larger and more efficient core fabricated.  The larger the core in the manifold will also help with cooling intake temps.

FUCK YEAH!!  I just got an email from Seth at ERL Performance.  My short block is done.  3 weeks ahead of schedule!!  Now I'm broke again doe.

LOL... Good news and bad news all at once.

Congrats Tim on the early completion of the short block!  Broke, but happily so  ;) (or least I would be with this build  ;D)

I still need more parts.  My valvetrain hasn't arrived yet.

Yay for ERL finishing it quickly, but boo for being broke lol I didn't realize that your aftercooler was already a water to air unit :p that's good stuff. I tend to think outside the box a lot aha some ideas are good but some are just...silly lol. I can't wait to see this whole thing come together. Its going to be good.

(http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t268/tibies/tumblr_lyfnwkheRH1qhv6pa.jpg)



Seriously though, that's awesome!

I'm told that shipping should only be 1 day. I should have my block back by the time I leave for my vacation next weekend.

Is the added weight really worth it?

What are you driving now that your Accord is down?

Yes. The added weight is worth it. My intake temps peaked around 250° without any cooling at all. The more I do to lower my intake temps, the more I reduce detonation. The end result is less wear and tear on the motor and a little bit more power. It's an Accord, not a track car. I accept it's limitations and only view it as a car that's fun to drive. I'm not expecting it to be a track monster.

Right now, my daily driver is a company vehicle since I travel all over the state for work. My car has been down since May of last year. I also drive my wife's Fit every now and then.

:cough: rape van :cough:

Cleverly disguised as an ice cream truck.

Yes.  It's a rape van.  The fact that the back of it is caged off, makes it a prime candidate for a rape vehicle.  All I need is a gumball machine in the back and it's official.  Funny how you guys haven't seen the rape van though.  Only Milan, Arie, and Nelson have really seen it.

And they lived?

They were a little sore the next day.

I walked with a limp for a week.

That's just wrong.

So it turns out that the Ferrea valve guides I have need to be honed. That's something I never knew about. I'm waiting for my valves to show up so I can bring everything to the machine shop and have the honed before my head gets ported.

Yay!!

Fucking liar!  :flip:

Milan is a pro. That's why he wasn't sore.

Yeah, I'm a pro dick dodger. Although, I can't imagine being hurt by something comparable to the girth of a needle.

Yeah. This has gone horribly off topic. You guys can stop now. I'll be updating with pics tonight when I get home.

Here's my updates.  Some of you may have already seen these. 
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Cylinder%20Head%20Porting%20K20A2/IMG_0552.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Cylinder%20Head%20Porting%20K20A2/IMG_0553.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Cylinder%20Head%20Porting%20K20A2/IMG_0554.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Cylinder%20Head%20Porting%20K20A2/IMG_0556.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Cylinder%20Head%20Porting%20K20A2/IMG_0557.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Cylinder%20Head%20Porting%20K20A2/IMG_0558.jpg)

Ooooooo

Everything is so shiny.  Now make it go vroom! Lol

Good shit Tim.  It's looking good.

Head looks good!

Very nice, sir! Can't wait to see the final assembly!

Just paid a fat chunk of money to ERL for my short block.  It's being shipped out today and should arrive tomorrow.  Assembly will start when I get back from my vacation as long as I have all my parts.

Tim, when you're building your engine / putting everything back in the engine bay, how can you possibly remember where all the bolts go? I can't even imagine having hundreds of bolts and whatnot and needing to put them all somewhere. Unless your service manual specifically shows that, then I guess that would make sense. I didn't think about that before.

My method for that sort of thing: labeled zip loc bags.

Which is why everything is sitting in a box in a bunch of labeled ziplock bags.

That last picture looks like a surprised face. hahahahaa

Lmao! I see it! It even has eyebrows :D

You guys are crazy.

This showed up today!!

The rest of my valvetrain components.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/IMG_0570.jpg)
A heavy container.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/IMG_0572.jpg)
With all this inside!!
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/IMG_0573.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/IMG_0574.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/IMG_0575.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/IMG_0577.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/IMG_0578.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/IMG_0579.jpg)
Here's the spec sheet of my new block.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/IMG_0580.jpg)
Yup.  It's authentic.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/IMG_0581.jpg)

Wow! That is some dirty car porn right there :D March is when Tim has his x-mas, nice collection of parts. Can't wait for the build to begin!

DAMN, that's awesome! And you got a sweet key chain to go with it!

What do you use for rust protection?

How the hell do you pronounce your last name?!   :D

^LoL!

@Nelson there are a bunch of things he could use. Regular oil, fluid film, wd40, assembly lube etc...my friend who repairs motorcycles tells me a lot of the engines they get from the factory actually come with peanut oil inside them for corrosion protection, of course that's flushed out and changed during assembly/installation but you get the picture.

wow wow wee wow! Those are some sweet pics Tim. I cannot wait to see this build come together!

Good shit Tim, now go enjoy your vaca then get to work lol. Looking forward to seeing that thing running again.

Thanks for all the comments guys.  I'm in Chattanooga, TN right now.  Hung out with country tonight.  As soon as I get back, I'll be sure to get started on this and will keep this thread updated.


ERL used WD-40 before they bagged it.  Since it's staying in the bag for now, I do not need to do anything.  I have already confirmed that with ERL.  After I am done claying the motor and waiting for the correct head gasket to arrive, I will spray it with WD-40 again and re-bag it.


It's pronounced "Michael is in..."





Giggity!!

Giggity indeed.

Had to pull the knuckles to press in new wheel bearings.  My driver's side lower control arm has a bolt stuck in the bushing, so I pulled the sub frame out to cut the bolt.  I figure it's a good idea to replace all my lower control arm bushings, sub frame bushings, and knock off all the rust with a wire wheel and give everything a fresh coat of paint.  I have a lot of work ahead of me soon.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/Sub%20Frame/DSC_0008.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/Sub%20Frame/DSC_0009.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/Sub%20Frame/DSC_0010.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/Sub%20Frame/DSC_0012.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/Sub%20Frame/DSC_0015.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/Sub%20Frame/DSC_0016.jpg)

Wow I've been dead to the world. Pictures look fucking great! I'm going to PM you.

I finally had the time to clay the motor yesterday.  Here's a few pictures I took during the process.  I didn't get any pics of the clay after I pulled the head back off.  The good news is that I have more than enough valve to piston clearance and piston to head clearance.  It measured out to 0.150" on the intake valves, 0.300" on the exhaust valves, and 0.100" piston to head clearance.  That's at least double the minimum clearance, so I know everything is safe to run and I can advance my intake cam to 50º without any problems.

On with the pics.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/DSC_0001.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/DSC_0002.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/DSC_0003.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/DSC_0004.jpg)
I put the clay in the valve pockets and on the edges of the piston.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/DSC_0005.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/DSC_0006.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/DSC_0007.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/DSC_0008.jpg)
The head is on and torqued down.  I reused the stock head gasket for this as a reference in case I needed to get a thicker head gasket.  I only used the inner springs from my AP1/DC5 spring combo.  I did this to keep the spring pressure down when turning the motor over.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/DSC_0009.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/DSC_0010.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/DSC_0011.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/DSC_0012.jpg)
I put in the rocker assembly, locked together the rockers on cylinder 1 so that VTEC was engaged.  Then I dropped in the cams, pinned the VTC gear at 50º, torqued down the cam caps, and put the chain and upper chain guide on.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/DSC_0013.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/DSC_0014.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/DSC_0015.jpg)
Finally, I put on the Circuit Hero lower timing chain guide and OEM chain guides, then just used a zip tie to keep tension on the chain since it wasn't necessary to use the timing chain tensioner.  Then I turned the motor over 2.5 times and took everything apart to measure the clay.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/DSC_0016.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/DSC_0017.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/DSC_0018.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/DSC_0019.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/DSC_0020.jpg)

I installed the valves, valve springs, and other supporting parts yesterday too.  I'm using all Ferrea components for my valvetrain with 105 lb springs.

Ferrea valve guides and Team 4 Piston shims.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/K20A2%20Head/DSC_0022.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/K20A2%20Head/DSC_0023.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/K20A2%20Head/DSC_0024.jpg)
Ferrea spring seats.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/K20A2%20Head/DSC_0025.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/K20A2%20Head/DSC_0026.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/K20A2%20Head/DSC_0027.jpg)
Ferrea valve stem seals.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/K20A2%20Head/DSC_0028.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/K20A2%20Head/DSC_0029.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/K20A2%20Head/DSC_0030.jpg)
Intake valves done.  Yes, I'm actually that OCD.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/K20A2%20Head/DSC_0031.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/K20A2%20Head/DSC_0032.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/K20A2%20Head/DSC_0033.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/K20A2%20Head/DSC_0037.jpg)
Exhaust valves done.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/K20A2%20Head/DSC_0040.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/K20A2%20Head/DSC_0048.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/K20A2%20Head/DSC_0041.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/K20A2%20Head/DSC_0043.jpg)
Valves.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/K20A2%20Head/DSC_0049.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/K20A2%20Head/DSC_0054.jpg)
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Impressive Tim! :thumbsup:

Pic whore!

I'm allowed to. Please refer to my avatar  message.

Farts dust?  ;D

Not my user title jackass.  Read below the avatar.

Rep power 113?  Trade count 3? 



 :D  The build looks like it is coming along quite nicely!

I see what you did there!!


Thanks.  I'm planning on getting the motor back together in the next few weeks.  I'm just waiting on a head gasket to start assembly.

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Sw00t

Looks great I'm very happy you use safe foot wear when assembling you engine.

 :D

Did you use a gasket, Hondabond or Ultra Flange II to seal that oil pan?

Hondabond.

Try Ultra Flange II next time. It works way better then Hondabond.

damn Tim looks sickkkkkk   ??? so jelly...  you are making me want to build a motor on the side  :)

how much bigger is the moroso oil pan compared to stock?  any problems with sub frame clearance?

The pan has an extra 2 qt capacity.  It's also baffled.  It is supposed to clear the sub frame, but we will find out.  The other thing I realized is that the pan doesn't give enough clearance for me to use the circuit hero lower timing chain guide.  I'm going to have the guide machined for additional clearance.

Wow, doin work! Very nice Tim!

SWEET! I wish I can work on my car :'(

Ryan, where have you been?  What's going on with your car?

Other Ryan, thanks!

Cant wait to see it all come together so many sickkk parts already, btw what cams ended up in there  ;)

Completely amazed at this whole build.  I wish I had the know how (and garage space  :D) to attempt this type of engine build.  Good sh!t Tim!  :thumbsup:

Right now, I'm going to use the IPS KSC '11 with the M62. I have a set of SVM 212 SC cams on order that I'm going to be using with the HT-V1320.

My plan now is to just get the car back on the road so I can enjoy it before it gets cold. then I'm going to put it back up on jack stands for the winter and do some more upgrading.

I've been busy with work. The place I moved to doesnt allow me to work on my car. So ever since then I've slowly lost the desire to mod. I havent washed my car in over a year... :'(

I do want to get PU bushings for the front arms from hyperflex.

That's a bummer dude.  Sorry to hear that.  I know that PCI should be making spherical bushings for the front LCA's if you're looking for something.

Amazing build Tim! You make me wanna speed up my J36 build!

Thanks man. I can't wait to get home and get some more work done on the motor.

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nice, keep it up! i cant wait to see it in action.

Thanks David.  I'm just waiting on a few misc parts to get everything buttoned up.  Unfortunately, money is the main thing holding me back right now.  I still have to get new injectors and plugs.  There are a few more things that are going to change over the winter.

when is the est. completion date?

I'd like to have the motor in and have the car tuned by September.  I'm not sure if that will happen, but that's my goal.  As far as all the other stuff (EPS/1320/tranny upgrades), it will be going in over the winter when I take the car off the road again.

nice! i just bought a house so it has set back my plans of sc'ing my car, but i will be needing to do some tranny work here soon since i have almost 90k miles on it.

I hear ya man.  I'm saving up for a house too, so that has slowed down my plans to buy a house.  The good thing is that we finally live in an area where housing is reasonably affordable and the cost of living is lower so we can actually save money.

As for the tranny stuff, I'm going to be going back to a 4.3 final drive Si gear set (1-5) TSX 6th, GearSpeed carbon synchros, and I'm probably going to get a WaveTrac LSD.

what will you be doing with your obx lsd?

I'm either going to save it for another tranny or sell it. I guess it all depends on what come up. Eventually, I'm going to build another car like a civic or a teg.

So, the oil pan doesn't clear my sub frame.  I'm pretty discouraged about it right now.  I was hoping to have the motor back in the car last night.  :'(

Don't get discouraged, you've come so far from what i've seen. :) you will overcome!

I was on a good roll last night until I found out the pan didn't fit.  Now I have no desire to do any more work on my car.

sounds like its time to sell..

Don't push him Mark. He should know, just like everyone else, that every major project has complications that can be dealt with. Especially when modifications as extensive as he's got get mashed together. He's traveling down uncharted territory.

Word..+1.  don't give up on it!

Sorry Mark, I'm not a car whore like some people are.  I was just mad that I bought a $350 oil pan based on incorrect information given by the manufacturer.  Their site has a list of different chassis' it will fit, which included the CL9.  The sub frames are identical, yet it does not fit my CM5.  I already emailed Moroso and just said I had a TSX that it didn't fit and I wanted them to refund my money since I can't return it to where it was special ordered from.

Anyway, I pulled off the pan today.  It wasn't as hard as before since I had a better tool to get it off.  I cleaned my old stock oil pan up and got it on.  I also swapped out my injectors with some ID1000's and bolted on my bored TB inlet and new TB.  Maybe tomorrow I'll test fit the motor in the bay again and see how it sits with the new motor mounts.

Keep at it Tim, I wanna see that bad boy run.

Hell yeah dude! That bitch will run like a raped ape once its all said and done.

Lol!

You guys are really making it out to be a lot bigger than it actually is.  This is just a mild build.  Nothing special here.  Just a standard cookie cutter Accord.

What wheels you think I should get?

Whatever happened to that eggplant goodness you had up your sleeve?

And this is FAR from cookie cutter Tim. Just because there are a few "cookie cutters" on k20 doesn't mean yours falls into that category.

+1, Im with Z.  Your doin a lot more than anything ive seen that isnt in a bubble.  Dont down play yourself, accept your greatness! Lol

Exactly. He should admit once and for all that he's a baller with a non cookie cutter CM.

wouldnt a raped ape be slow?  think about it z, if you had just been raped you would want to be fast on the getaway but would you really be faster if you had just been raped?

These must be the things that keep you up at night, huh David?

I was just joking about the cookie cutter part.  Even when comparing it to cars on k20, it's not cookie cutter.  I'm just trying to down play it a little bit since it won't be that fast.  Anyway, I want to blend in with the rest of the cars you see over on v6p.  I want people to assume all I've done are mild aesthetic modifications.

Anyway, good news.  I got an email back from Moroso.  They said they were willing to modify the pan for me to fit the chassis.  No money was mentioned, so I'll wait to see if this is going to cost me anything.  The other thing I also told them was that the engine stiffener/flywheel cover that bolts between the tranny and the block doesn't fit because of the pan.  Hopefully they will also be willing to make a change to the pan to accommodate that too.

just adding a lil humor, thats all.

A raped ape is angry and angry apes are fast and dangerous. Just sayin'.

Seriously guys?

Get some VIP wheels lol

My bad Tim.

Anyway, since you bolted up the OEM pan, are you going to drop it in with that or wait on Moroso to modify their pan? I know you're itching to finally get this back on the road but I can understand wanting them to rectify the situation.

Or if you're not into VIP style try looking at COR wheels. They have some decent choices that are out of the box. But whatever you do, don't get meshies lol. Everyone and their grandmas dog has mesh wheels.

And you're paying a hefty premium for those COR wheels. I'm interested to see what Tim had up his sleeve a few months ago that he didn't fully reveal. Hence my eggplant reference that he didn't respond to yet.

Yeah.....




.....no!
I already have wheels. 3 sets actually. My comment about the wheels was me poking fun at how a lot of Accord owners sign up on here, g7a and v6p and immediately post a "what wheels/drop should I get?" thread, along with looking to do a 7.5 gen front end conversion so they can run Inspire fogs. It was in response to the "cookie cutter" comment. Those are cookie cutter mods. Get it?

The only set of wheels that I want that I currently do not own are a set of Volk CE28N's 18x9.5 in gloss black.


I'm going to bolt the Moroso pan to an empty block and tranny case I have, then drop that in the car for pictures and to mark it. If that's not good enough, I will probably pull the sub frame and try it all over again.

At the moment, the stock steel pan is going to stay on my motor. Swapping pans while the motor is in the car isn't horrible, so if the Moroso pan isn't ready in time, I will still be able to fire it up and get tuned.

Anyway, the Moroso pan has an extra 2-3 quart capacity. Using the stock pan will save me money on expensive break in oil that I plan on using at first.

".......... along with looking to do a 7.5 gen front end conversion so they can run Inspire fogs."


 :( dam, looks like I successfully and blindly fell into that hole.  Sorry guys...

Ah gotcha. I don't think inside the box so I wouldn't know anything about that. Honestly I think volks are meh. But to each his own. Maybe it's just my taste that is bad when In my mind everyone else's taste is bad lol.

It's your car, so you're free to do what you want with it.  The reason why I brought it up is because it's a common mod.  I'd say that the majority of 03-05 owners have done the 06-07 front bumper swap.  It's so common that when someone looked at pictures of my car over on k20a, they assumed I had done the bumper swap because my front bumper looked different.


Yeah.  I looked at the COR wheels.  It doesn't look like they have anything smaller than a 19" and all of the wheels were way too flashy for my taste.  My car is not a VIP ride, so those will not fit the style of what I'm doing.  You can have your opinion about the Volks, but I like a clean and classic look.  You're entitled to have your own opinion and style that you like.  It doesn't have to be the same as mine.  My goal is to have my car appear to be stock and to have an non-knowledgable (to CM5 Accords) person look at my car and only think that I put on aftermarket wheels and dropped it.  Actually, everything on the exterior of my car, except for the wheels, is OEM Honda.  Even the exhaust tips.  I'm really shooting for the whole sleeper thing.

I just learned what a sleeper is the other day *audience gasp*  lol...I hear you on to each his own....I just don't want to be a statistic.

Gotcha. I guess if everyone thought the same way and had the same opinions it would be so boring. But I respect the sleeper look. And all the engine work you've done and way back when your mdx fog mod was one of the things that pushed me more towards custom one off mods. But also I wasn't really repping the whole cor brand, I only actually like one or two wheels from each brand. I was thinking about the forma for your ride. But then again i lean more towards the lip-less look more than not. anyways /end rant.

+1 Tim, Sleeper is the way to go, especially with that crazy engine build.

For once, I agree with Ariel.

I guess I never posted pics of the wheels I got.  I'm not going to be using the Buddy Club's since they need a spacer to clear the RL calipers and they're 7.5" wide.  The Enkei's clear the RL calipers even though they're the same size and offset as the Buddy Club's, but they're still 7.5" wide.  I got my hands on these a few months back though.  I think they will look good when they're painted.

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This is the color I picked for them.  I just got all the paint in.  Hopefully they'll get painted in the next few weeks.
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Yeah you guys have a point sleepers are sweet ,less unwanted attention is always a good thing with a build like this .They will never know what hit them. Tim what size wheels are those and what type tires you going with .Did you ever have your fender rolled with your current drop ?

Some people want the attention, and others don't.  I just want people to assume my car isn't quick.  The only thing that may give it away is the heat exchanger in the front and the 3 pusher fans I have in front of it.  I may need to get a grillecraft grille or something for the lower grille opening to hide the fans.  I wonder if they fit the ASEAN bumper?  :hmm2:

The wheels are 18"x8.5".  I have a set of 245/40/18's that I'm just going to throw on them for now.  I'm going to get a set of 265/35/18's next summer though.  I have my fenders rolled and pulled and my quarter panels rolled.  I'm probably going to have the quarter panels cut to fit the larger tires.

Those wheels are definitely sick always loved that spoke style

....is that dark purple?   

:kiss:

Yeah, it is.  You got a problem with that?  :mad:

 :puke:

Its not dark purple. Its eggplant. And Tim, why would Ike have a problem with the color? Have you seen the man's calipers?

Yeah, so here's the thing.  People gave me shit about having a pink fuel rail.  I just don't give a shit.  I picked the color for the wheels because it's different than any other silver 7th gen sedan I've seen without being being a super bright/loud "look at me" color.  Anyway, the color is going to be so dark that it will look like it's gloss black unless in direct sunlight.

I can't wait to see it! ;) sounds classy

You have a pink fuel rail?

Yeah.  It's been on my car since I moved to OH.  You got a problem with that?

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Tim, Why do you think everybody has a problem with everything today?

judging by that pink fuel rail it must be his time of the month.  :D

Big time progress...

Gawd, the performance anticipation.  Good sh!t, Tim.  Hyped for engine running videos.

BTW, purple/eggplant is a classy color if done right... and judging by the detail oriented preferences already implemented in this build, I would suspect to expect nothing less than class.

You've got me thinking about wheel colors now...too many options.

I'm going to try and get that oil pan set up so I can see where it hits and needs to clear the sub frame.

How much convinceing do you think the subframe needs?

The sub frame is going to be untouched.  I just need to put the pan on a block and drop it in the car to see where the pan hits the sub frame.  Then I'm going to take pictures and mark the pan where it needs to clear so I can send it back to Moroso.  I'm also going to send them a clutch housing and a engine siffener/flywheel cover so they can modify the other side of the pan for that.  Hopefully it shouldn't take too long to accomplish, but I'm not going to wait for the pan to be finished.  I can just swap that out later on.

Yeah I have a big problem with that.












You have purple wheels and I don't :'(

Technically, I have bare aluminum wheels and 3 cans of paint that will make the shade of purple I want.

I posted this in the other thread, but I discovered yesterday that the Vibra Technics Hond-R engine mounts that I got don't fit properly.  When I got them, both mounts were labelled as "front" mounts.  I emailed Marcus at Heel Toe about it and he said that was normal and the mounts are the same for the front and rear.  The information he got was wrong and the rear mount is actually 25mm lower than the front mount.  I emailed Marcus last night and he was nice enough to call me about it today.  He said he had the same problem and would be willing to swap out the rear mount, or let me send the set back in and exchange them for the Innovative mounts that just came out.  Since the Innovative set includes the side mount too, I've decided to get those instead. 

I've gotta say, I'm very happy with the service I received from Marcus at Heel Toe.  He called me back the next day after I sent an email and he totally took care of me without any problems at all.  I need to mention that this is an order that I placed 6 months ago.  Totally awesome service at Heel Toe.

Also, there are aftermarket K24 mounts available now made by Innovative.  They come in a range of 4 bushing stiffnesses from 65A, 75A, 85A and 95A.  They're listed for the TSX, but I know the TSX mounts are identical to the Accord mounts.

Going to get them super firm so you can keep that monster still.

Yeah.  I'm actually going with the 85A stiffness.  Another good thing is that the Innovative set comes with a side mount.  That's going to be better than using the stock one that is easy to destroy.  Hopefully I'll get that oil pan and those mounts shipped out tomorrow.  Unfortunately, I have to wait a little bit on the mounts before I can put the motor in.  That will be my excuse to wait and see if the oil pan will be notched and back in time.  If I get the oil pan back before I drop the motor back in, I'm going to do the oil pump pressure relief spring upgrade to increase oil pressure a bit also.  I thought I was close to dropping the motor back in and getting it fired up and ready for a tune.  I guess I was wrong since these are some shitty set backs.

Since it's half way through September, I don't think I'll be getting my car back on the road by October like I wanted.  I may need to push things back another month.  The good news is that I got all my front end parts back.  I have my lower control arms cleaned up and ready for paint.  I just have to clean up the knuckles and get some paint on them before I press in the new wheel bearings.  At least I can continue to make progress while I'm waiting for the mounts and the pan to get modified.

What did you paint your grille with?

Had it painted at my friend's shop. I believe the satin black was just regular SEM plastic trim paint. The chrome was sprayed with a House Of Kolor chrome adhesion promoter and then gloss black.

It's been a while since I've posted any updates, so I'll try and bring everyone up to speed.  I put the stock oil pan back on the motor to get it back in since the Moroso pan didn't fit and I haven't sent it back to get modified yet.  The Innovative mounts came in, so I'm just plugging along to get everything finished.  Here are some recent pics.

Here's the wheels back from paint.  They turned out exactly how I wanted them.  Very dark in low light, but the color really comes out in the sun (in the 3rd pic).  You can't really see it in the pictures, but there's a blue metallic under the candy red that comes out and you get a really cool effect from it when the light hits it right.  Thanks to crazy Ryan for painting them for me.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/10%2012%2012%20Pics/IMG_1769.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/10%2012%2012%20Pics/IMG_1771.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/10%2012%2012%20Pics/IMG_1772.jpg)

I just wanted to put these on to see how they looked.  I'm probably not going to be using these headlights right now.  I have other plans for these ones.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/10%2012%2012%20Pics/IMG_1777.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/10%2012%2012%20Pics/IMG_1778.jpg)

Here's how it sat before I pulled the motor back out last week.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/10%2012%2012%20Pics/IMG_1785.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/10%2012%2012%20Pics/IMG_1786.jpg)

I have to paint these when I have the time.  I've got a couple of cans of gloss black waiting to be used on a nice day.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/10%2012%2012%20Pics/IMG_1787.jpg)

Here's a stack of parts still waiting to go back on the car.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/10%2012%2012%20Pics/IMG_1788.jpg)

Here are the Innovative mounts that I got to replace the incorrect Vibra Technics mounts.  They look a lot better and seem to be much better quality.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/10%2012%2012%20Pics/IMG_1789.jpg)

I also had to swap out the stock fuel pump for a Walbro 400 lph.  All in all, it wasn't that bad to swap out, but I had to gut the stock fuel pump hangar.  I was a bit nervous to do that, but I got some good advice along the way.

(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/Walbro%20400/IMG_1845.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/Walbro%20400/IMG_1846.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/Walbro%20400/IMG_1850.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/Walbro%20400/IMG_1851.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/Walbro%20400/IMG_1839.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/Walbro%20400/IMG_1852.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/Walbro%20400/IMG_1853.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/Walbro%20400/IMG_1855.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/Walbro%20400/IMG_1856.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/Walbro%20400/IMG_1857.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/Walbro%20400/IMG_1858.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/Walbro%20400/IMG_1859.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/Walbro%20400/IMG_1860.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/Walbro%20400/IMG_1862.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/Walbro%20400/IMG_1863.jpg)

Impressive work

The wheels look really good Tim.  I had no idea you were planning them to be that dark.  I was thinking they would be lighter in shade.

:thumbsup:

Goddamn, those wheels turned out amazing!

Thanks Clemente and Bobby.  Nelson, a lot of people had trouble picturing what I was talking about.  My goal was for them to look like they're black unless it's sunny out.

I still have a lot more work to do.  As soon as I get some parts in this week, I should have it back down on the wheels.  Then I can move it out into the middle of the garage and get everything wired up.  I'm going to run a 10 gauge wire directly from the battery to the trunk to power the fuel pump.  I want to keep that wire separate from the 1/0 gauge wire I have for my audio system.  I'm also going to be running all the wiring for my aftermarket gauges and additional wiring for the aftercooler water pump and fans through the firewall where the engine harness passes through.  My goal is to make it hide the additional wiring in the harness so it looks stock.

Tim, those wheels look really tough, hands down one of the best jobs I've seen on wheels. The car/engine is coming along great and I'm jelly of those headlights. Hopefully, I can snag a pair early next year.

So much work! What were your plans for the lights? I really like the darkness of the wheels and the subtle color that will pop out under the right circumstances. :)

Tim, I'm so proud of you. My little boy has grown up! 
 :trololol:

Now that I got that out of the way, I'm going to use the smilies at our disposal to paint the picture of how I feel about the latest batch of pictures.
That color on those wheels,  :omg:
The pile of parts on the shelf waiting to go back in,  :thefuck: Why are they not in yet?!
The Inspires,  :waitwhat: but I think I have an idea of what you're going to do. I can't remember if we talked about a certain something awhile back but I'm going to  :qft:
As for those fans for your cooler, too bad they're going to be hidden. Anyway your progress has me think like this guy: :megusta:

Man what happened to painting the wheels purple?!?!    I like the color you picked a lot but I was looking forward to the purple. 

Thanks Ariel.

Z, I'm older than you.  :hb: I'm sure we've discussed what I want to do with the headlights.  :suspect: Pile of parts aren't in yet because I have to wait for more parts to arrive.  Gotta put shit back together in order ya know.  :thefuck:


The plans for the lights is to do something controversial for the purists.  If it's not possible, I'm going to leave them alone and probably just hold on to them.  I like the color on the wheels too.  They came out the way I wanted them and I'm really happy with the color.


That is the color I picked.  It's not really possible to capture the color with a camera.  You really have to see these wheels in person.

I know you're older than me and I'll never let you forget that you are the grumpy old man of ECM. Now that I think about, we have discussed your plans for those lights. Screw the purists. Definitely do what we talked about. It'll look baller to go with the ballerness™ of your build.

Lol @ tm

Not a baller build.  If it was, I'd be driving it now.  Ballers don't take a year to build their cars.

Love the wheel color, Tim.  Definitely unexpected.  They are truly... AMAZING.  It'll be pretty dope to seem them mounted.  The truly great builds take time.  Much respect for all the quality parts and the countless hours of hand wrenching, researching and sleeplessness involved. :)

Quad retro Inspires?!?!?  O0

Ahhh gotcha, it looks like a candy red in that last pic you posted. 

Thanks Michael. A quad retro for Inspire headlights isn't possible. If these were retrofitted, I would want to retain the integrity of the Inspire low beams because that's what makes them unique.

Ike, it's an interesting combination for the paint. It started with a black base coat, then a dark blue metallic, and a candy apple red on top of that. They look really dark most of the time. In the sun, they lighten up a lot an the blue metallic has a hologram effect. You'll never really be able to appreciate the paint unless you see it in person.

Hmm, those Inspire's look very familiar. LOL

They should.  Do you miss them, or are you happy they have gone to a good home?

I really dont miss them considering I have the gunmetal ones sitting in a box waiting for the owner to pay for them.  ;)

Ohh yeah. That douche.

Sooner or later he'll pay for them. For now, they'll just sit in a Works VS-XX box colllecting dust. HAHA

Could always sell them to someone else...  Would really get under the skin of that non paying asshole...

^ this!!

:hb:

(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/IMW%20Tuning/TimMK24_CTSC.jpg)

...daaaaaaaaaam!

Nice!!! Good numbers Tim

...nice I love the colors of the graph! LmaoOooo



Nice numbers dude!  ;)

very nice

Great numbers

 ???

I love how flat that torque curve is. I'm interested to see what comes out of the water/meth injection.

holy shiznit

I thought you said 395hp?

Congrats Tim.

Incredible  ???

I said 396 Jer.  I guess right now, I built the highest hp M62 powered car.  The tuner was telling me that he's never seen any motor with a M62 make this much power.  The water meth should put me over the 400 mark.  When I go back for the retune, I will have a different blower on it though, so I'll probably never find out.

Great work Tim.

Wow! Great numbers Tim. Even without the water/meth it looks like your creeping damn close into turbo territory. The only time I see numbers that high from a supercharger, the word Rotrex is usually in there somewhere. Damn good job.

Wow it looks like money well spent!   Other than the water/meth, what else still needs to be done?

Well, I'm getting another set of cams made by SVM.  Nikos is the guy that designed the IPS KSC 11's that I have in the motor right now.  He's confident that they will make more power with the M62.  Since SVM is still pretty new, I know he wants to have some proof that they make power over anything else.  I think I'm going to swap the cams and set up the water meth and see what it makes with a retune.

I still have a few things left to button up though.  I need to get a few things painted and some body work done.  I also have an exhaust leak at the flex pipe, so I'm going to have it replaced and the cat removed.  I may also get an e cut out set up while I have the header off.  I also need a new TPS, a catch can, and possibly a new A/F sensor.  The wiring for the water meth will probably get done soon, and I also need to clean up some wiring in the car.  The main thing right now is that my tach, speedo, and coolant temp gauges aren't working in my gauge cluster.  I think it's the module that I had made to convert it.  Something isn't working with that right now, so I need to bring it back to get that fixed.

Nice! Will you be doing a baseline tune with the current cams and the water/meth then?

Shits weak....

 ;)

No tune with the current cams and water meth. I will be doing a new tune with the new cams and then add water meth to that. I want to see if I can pass the 400 hp mark. Hopefully there will be decent gains with water meth. I'm guessing the majority of the gains with the water meth will be from cooling the M62. Right now, my cooler set up was able to get intake temps down to 92° with ice in the reservoir. The M62 was still pretty warm though, so you know the air was pretty hot before passing through the after cooler. The water meth is going to be sprayed before the tb, so it will draw some of the heat out of the M62 and improve the overall cooling of the intake temps.

My aftercooler coolant outlet broke, so I had to pull the supercharger off to get it fixed.  While it was off, I had fittings welded on.  I just picked it up last night to test fit everything and make sure the lines clear my coolant overflow tank.  It will be going back on today.

(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Aftercooler%20Header%20Damage%20and%20Repair/IMG_2074.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Aftercooler%20Header%20Damage%20and%20Repair/IMG_2073.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Aftercooler%20Header%20Damage%20and%20Repair/IMG_2075.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Aftercooler%20Header%20Damage%20and%20Repair/IMG_2077.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Aftercooler%20Header%20Damage%20and%20Repair/IMG_2076.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Aftercooler%20Header%20Damage%20and%20Repair/IMG_2078.jpg)
Here it is all fixed up.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Aftercooler%20Header%20Damage%20and%20Repair/IMG_2136.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Aftercooler%20Header%20Damage%20and%20Repair/IMG_2137.jpg)

The flex pipe on my header was destroyed.  It's had a leak since I first got it, so this needed to be replaced too.  I decided to do a few upgrades there too.  Since I had everything off, it was time to upgrade and fix some problems with my exhaust.  I decided to make the flex pipe removable so if it breaks again, I can just have some v band flanges welded on and replace it in a few minutes.  I also wanted to get an exhaust cut out, so I had that added to my set up.  All I have to do now is cut the mid pipe and weld on a new v band flange.

Here's the damaged flex pipe.  Kinda bad for it only being on my car for 7 months of use.  It sat in my garage for a year and a half.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Aftercooler%20Header%20Damage%20and%20Repair/IMG_2083.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Aftercooler%20Header%20Damage%20and%20Repair/IMG_2084.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Aftercooler%20Header%20Damage%20and%20Repair/IMG_2086.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Aftercooler%20Header%20Damage%20and%20Repair/IMG_2087.jpg)

Here's what's done so far.  The electric cut out I picked up was mis-packaged so I ended up getting a 2.5" one instead of 3".  I have to take it back to have them exchange it for me.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Aftercooler%20Header%20Damage%20and%20Repair/IMG_2140.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Aftercooler%20Header%20Damage%20and%20Repair/IMG_2145.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Aftercooler%20Header%20Damage%20and%20Repair/IMG_2144.jpg)
Here's the turn down for the exhaust cut out.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Aftercooler%20Header%20Damage%20and%20Repair/IMG_2139.jpg)

Looks hardcore with just the downturned pipe. 

Shit's weak.

I can't wait to get the mid pipe cut and rewelded so I can fire it up and have a quiet car again.

Its coming together nicely

Thanks Clemente.  I'm hoping to have the exhaust finished up tonight and the electric cut out valve on by tomorrow night.

Looking good so far Tim, great job man

Exhaust will be done Friday night.  My welder is busy and won't be able to get it done until then.  I also discovered that there's a problem with my kpro.  It's not reading the VSS signal.  I tested a different kpro tonight and it reads the VSS fine.  I'm going to have to buy another ECU to have the kpro swapped to, along with the signal conversion module so I don't have to run a dual ECU.

I got my supercharger back on and bled my aftercooler set up.  One of my fittings is leaking coolant.  I have to drain the coolant, remove the line and replace the fitting.  It's not that bad, but it's just going to be a bit tedious.

No more dual exhaust?

No, I still have the same exhaust.  That's the set up for my exhaust cut out.  Now I'll have it quiet when I want, and more power when I need it.

thats a new developement, i thought you were always opposed to the single ecu setup.  im real curious to see how you do it and retain the stock gauge cluster.

I don't think he was opposed to it. I think he was opposed to the mass of wiring to make it work without hiccups.

that is why i paid paul to take care of it for me.

Holy shit!  That thing looks really bad.  That type of damage should not occur from typical operation; it looks like premature failure due to either a manufacturing defect or poor build quality.

I was never opposed to one ECU. I wasn't a fan of using a RSX gauge cluster for various reasons. The module I have I probably the only one that will be made. It's a signal converter so the KPro ECU can send the correct signal to the Accord gauge cluster.

i would love to get my hands on one of those.  as ive told you before, the gaps that i have due to rsx cluster are really starting to annoy me and i would like to switch back to a stock cluster if possible. i would have to change a couple of other things to make it work like yours but it would be worth it to have a cleaner look.

I have been trying to get these made for Accord owners. All I can do is be persistent and let them know there is a market for them.

Sorry, another byproduct of reading threads late at night.  I thought you meant cut out as in a rear bumper cut out, but it seems you actually meant in the exhaust itself.  My bad.  :facepalm:

Exhaust was finished up today.  My welder cut the mid pipe and welded on a new v-band flange so it now fits all the extra shit I've added.  Brand spanking new flex pipe which is now removable and replaceable.  I just have to pick up the same flex pipe and have some v-band flanges welded on and it's literally a bolt on replacement now if it cracks.  The exhaust cut out is also in place now, but I haven't bolted up the electric cut out valve yet.  Maybe I'll do that on Tuesday.

Found these videos.

(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/IMW%20Tuning/th_IMG_2016_zpsbed2f144.jpg) (http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/ERL%20Engine%20Build/IMW%20Tuning/IMG_2016_zpsbed2f144.mp4)

M62 CM5 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4oAf3eq2MuU#)

Sounds a little whiney....

A whiney little bitch actually.

Finally had a chance to get the sub frame out yesterday.  I double checked the clearance with the EPS motor and everything looks good.  I need to bring the sub frame to my welder to have something taken care of.

(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/EPS%20Clearance/photo1-1_zps23d89adc.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/EPS%20Clearance/photo2-1_zpscf501500.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/EPS%20Clearance/photo3-1_zps7b45cb73.jpg)

EPS is in and working.  I had a chance to test everything out last night and it's working pretty good.  The TVS adapter is being machined right now.  Once we get everything on and lined up, the fabrication of the aftercooler will start.  I'm hoping to stuff a 3" Bell water to air core in my manifold to get temps as low as possible.

(https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/575455_645133882181299_335055050_n.jpg)

 :ecstatic:   :hail:

Meh.

















j/k.  ;)

Holy crap ! Nice numbers

someone's been buuuuusssyyyyyyyy.

Nice!!!

With a 3" pulley at 8400 rpm, the TVS was making 16.8 psi.  The injectors are limiting my power right now.  I'm going to step up to some 1300-1600 cc injectors and go from a 3.0" to a 2.5" pulley.  That should help me reach my power goals.  Right now, my car pulls pretty good where it's at.  I'm still trying to make more power though.

Good lord Tim, that's one nice graph. That makes me wonder... Why does the stock Accord reach its peak horsepower like 2,000rpm before redline, then start dropping off a shitload, whereas yours just keeps going higher, higher, higher? Is that mainly due to the supercharger or larger injectors, or is it simply because your car is that much of a beast and resembles nothing of the Accord anymore? :P

It's because my motor is built and tuned for power. In stock form its built and tuned for economy.

I can atest, the car pulls like a mother fucker!  So much fun!

 :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

 :hail:

I just got word back from Tony at Injector Dynamics.  They will be making a 1300cc injector soon, so I'm going to wait until that's available and swap to a 2.5" pulley and get a retune.

Wow, what a beast and nice numbers!

Any problems with traction?

Holy shit...

The tuner wrote on his shop's Facebook page "WOT in low gears creates violent wheel spin". Second gear breaks the tire loose almost as soon as I get on the throttle. In third gear the tires break loose at higher rpms (5000ish) and just continue to spin the rest of the way up. I am going to be hooking up a boost by gear solenoid, so I can dial in the boost levels so I have better traction. I am also going to be getting wider tires to help with grip. If that doesn't help much, I can always get the Hondata traction control.

What tires are you running now? Width?

I have 245's on right now. I'm probably going to step up to 265's.

Got any videos of this sweet bitch... I check out the post on FB... Your cars getting some hype!

Link?

http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid1209.photobucket.com/albums/cc384/Rachko87/20130530_152842_zpsc8d79ad2.mp4

http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid1209.photobucket.com/albums/cc384/Rachko87/20130530_173323_zps96b8dfcd.mp4

It's all hype. People are making it out to be bigger than it really is. Either way, I'm very happy with how it all turned out. I pulled off the Jegs electric exhaust cut out and replaced it with one made by Doug's Headers and there is no more exhaust leak. Compared to before, my exhaust is very quiet when the valve is open and much much louder when it is open (no more turn down). The gate style valve of the new one seals up so much better than the butterfly valve on the old one. I'm totally in love with my car again.

He is running a tax motor and 6 sipped trans. Don't know what your running but the tax has dual crew on both intake cam and exhaust cam. Our accords only single vtec. I am betting that he has his cams cut to adjust timing to 45 degrees where as outs does not. 6 speed trans completely changes the ratios at what power you will be putting outThese things can allow him to keep pulling good numbers where as ours can't. Tim awesome numbers man!!!!! Very impressed

Actually, things have changed quiet a bit.  The TSX motor was damaged in October of 2011 when I dropped a valve.  The head was completely destroyed, but the block was salvageable.  I brought the block to ERL Performance for their Turbo Race package.  They sleeved the block, bored it to 88mm, put in a deck guard, and assembled it with Manley Turbo Tuff rods, CP 11:1 pistons, ACL race bearings and held together with ARP studs on the girdle, rods and head.  Since the head was destroyed, I picked up a K20A2 head and had it ported and polished.  The K20A2 head flows about 317 cfm on the intake, which is a lot better than the K24A2 head, which flows about 290 cfm on the intake.  I replaced the valve guides, valves, springs, retainers and keepers with Ferrea components and I'm using IPS KSC '11 cams.  Supposedly, only 5 sets of these cams were made and have a 0.500" lift on the high speed lobe on the intake.  At this point, my motor is pretty much built to take whatever I throw at it. 

It's like car porn.............

Tim, I want your roof rack setup.  Tell me more specifics, please.

It's just a Thule roof rack with the square bars, a Thule cargo box (don't remember the model number) and 2 Thule 599XTR bike carriers.

See, when I got my honda oem roof rack the instructions said that the maximum wait of the rack was 88lbs because that was the maximum weight capacity of the roof. But then I check Thule and they have racks that can hold 175 pounds.

I've always wanted to put two bike racks and a carrier but never tried it. Now I know it works. Thanks Tim.

I need to take a look at your OEM rack. The one I got from Ryan doesn't clamp down tight enough. I think the hardware mounts are different. I just ordered new clamps from Honda today.

You need to update TIM!!!

Its currently on the car.

Nothing to update. Just business as usual.

Lies Tim. There's things to update.

His car pulls like a mofo.  First-hand experience right here.

I second that with a first first hand. :P

I'll just leave this right here for now.

(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Wheels/Volk%20CE28N/null_zps514d9053.jpg)

Nice

Yum.

Me :like: :thumbsup:

Dick.

(http://images2.wikia.nocookie.net/__cb20130416025653/icarly/images/thumb/d/d7/Patrick_star_rainmeter_skin_by_no121else-d5u56i2.png/360px-Patrick_star_rainmeter_skin_by_no121else-d5u56i2.png)

It's been a while since I've posted any updates, even though I've been slowly chipping away at a few things here and there.  I'm still waiting on 4 Piston to finish up my motor, but I believe they are waiting on Manley to rebuild my rods.  I scooped up the Hondata traction control from Stan and decided to see if a Mishimoto radiator for the Element will fit my chassis.

Fred (K20SIRCOUPE) was nice enough to help me measure my mainshaft clearance in my transmission.  I'm just waiting for a shim to come in from AFH and I can button it all up.  I'm also going to try and convert my TSX transmission shift mechanism to a RSX one so I can use a HR shifter.  I just need to find a set of cables that will fit.  The RSX cables are different from my Accord ones, and they are also 2" shorter. 

I also decided to do a few upgrades with my water/air system.  The first thing I did was get a second heat exchanger, so I'll have a dual core set up to help keep the water temps down.  I also decided to increase the capacity of my system a little more.  I'm setting aside my 2 gallon tank that I had used with the M62 and the HT-V1320 and had a 10-12 gallon tank fabricated to fit in my spare tire well.  It has a -12 feed and return fitting, and a -8 fitting for a drain so I can empty the system to add ice.  It also has a cap with an 8.25" opening so I can fit big blocks of ice in it.  The larger blocks of ice should last longer.  I found that just using ice cubes, they would melt after 1-2 pulls.  Here are a few pics of the tank.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Aftercooler/Tank/00000000-0000-0000-0000-000000003B48_zpsmqcj1un4.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Aftercooler/Tank/00000000-0000-0000-0000-000000003B4E_zps7hvunusw.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Aftercooler/Tank/00000000-0000-0000-0000-000000003B50_zpsw5w5akmc.jpg)

Another thing that I've been putting some thought into was improving the manifold I have.  The CT-E manifold may be better than the JR, but it's still a pile of crap.  I picked up a set of the Xcessive 58mm runners so I could have a plenum fabricated with a water/air core built in.  I had to do some grinding and cutting on my water pump housing, but I got everything to fit finally.  There's even room for the lower fuel rail to clear now too.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Xcessive%20Manifold/8735C304-4208-4EC7-AB89-15DA86BB07A4_zpsjq7vqhdb.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Xcessive%20Manifold/097A7B49-66A0-46D4-8BF2-B3D44EE28552_zpspkylogar.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Xcessive%20Manifold/B8602A09-9735-4B4D-8076-76A54A4109A0_zps2olkj1ex.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Xcessive%20Manifold/7287B221-6D0D-461E-A7B6-88CB89366083_zpslygdpfi8.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Xcessive%20Manifold/A551C44D-14BA-4AB0-9456-8B88871B801A_zpss9bwm9mv.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Xcessive%20Manifold/06B47867-A413-4951-B380-3656820FBAFD_zpsgfnrlaow.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Xcessive%20Manifold/F2C554BF-8613-46AE-99D1-EF0AFC71DC78_zpsosentjd2.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Xcessive%20Manifold/4661ECF3-BE69-404B-94E3-42180A893B98_zps003amcvm.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Xcessive%20Manifold/D5AD229A-F0A4-42D8-9FE2-54E52318F36D_zpso58uryej.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Xcessive%20Manifold/E13221E0-625C-4F66-A330-157D34CB53EB_zpsgbepuabp.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Xcessive%20Manifold/25D63A60-0A65-4502-96C5-16AE7DC620D8_zpsvmoxgfqu.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Xcessive%20Manifold/CBEB4E62-0659-4CA6-8818-275B33AB0A15_zpsandby9as.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Xcessive%20Manifold/D7517790-3513-430B-83A2-5470CA5A6130_zps2s34gmh1.jpg)

I'll be posting more pics after I get my new radiator and the fan shroud in place.  Then fabrication of the plenum should start then.

Using the same electric pump to move water from the tank in the trunk?

Last summer I upgraded from the Bosch 6 gpm pump (commonly found on sc'd mustangs) to a Meiziere 20 gpm water pump. It has -12 ORB ports, so I'm going to upgrade all the lines running in my set up from -10 to -12. I'm also going to replace all the fittings on my heat exchangers and weld on -12 fittings on them too. The aftercooler core in the plenum will be a single pass instead of a dual pass, like in all my previous set ups. Overall, this new water/air system will do a pretty good job of moving water. If I need to, I'll put a controller on the pump to slow it down if I run into heat soak issues. With the additional water capacity and second heat exchanger, heat soak should issues should be reduced. I'll be making brick sized blocks of ice for the tank, so those should melt slower than if I just filled the tank with ice cubes.

Thats intensive work impressive like always , you have this build down to a science

I wouldn't say that. I just know that the bolt on crap is holding me back from making power. I'm at the point where I need to have stuff fabricated if I want to make big power with a supercharger.

Didn't realize you had upgraded I remember a small pump and was concerned about moving water that far with a small pump

Yeah. It was something that I didn't really post about because it wasn't a big upgrade. It's basically a Meiziere pump that you would normally use for your motor.

Had a chance to get a few things done yesterday.  I got my radiator and fan shroud back, so I mounted the fans and made a temporary bracket to hold it in place while I mocked up the placement of the blower.

(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Xcessive%20Manifold/CBC1C3A5-28B6-4621-8BB4-6325F1D9ECBD_zpsvuhfvthj.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Xcessive%20Manifold/0229ABF6-80F7-43C3-B6AE-E71706157A73_zpssjs0xq1k.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Xcessive%20Manifold/0F4749AE-68FA-492D-9ED6-90E6A2DB36CC_zpspkeama1d.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Xcessive%20Manifold/76694EF4-1FE7-48A9-8E79-02AB130BF875_zpscq0t0wzv.jpg)

I got the blower in place to see if it would clear the hood.  First set up I tried fit with plenty of room to clear the hood, but the blower was sitting a little too low.  So I raised it up a little more after making some room under the hood.  I'm going to make another bracket to hold it securely in place so I can make a template for the plenum.  Hoping to get that started in a few weeks after I pick up a core for the w2a set up in the plenum.

(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Xcessive%20Manifold/190EA4E5-67A0-46A4-9757-E9EDFE69AB0F_zpsxvrviawc.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Xcessive%20Manifold/D26F3060-8A4B-4E70-BFA7-4E2ADA7AF14F_zpsx9mum8fl.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Xcessive%20Manifold/9201609B-78C4-4684-98E0-8397E0E402D1_zps6xex7tel.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Xcessive%20Manifold/304E519C-A7BF-44D7-8689-67623ADB7EE7_zpsvpzrz3qa.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Xcessive%20Manifold/AE20579C-8309-4CC1-86A8-B804B2993614_zpsxpohlfhv.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Xcessive%20Manifold/2C5FFCB8-79AB-4690-9F7F-E70F95243DF6_zpsjugjiynl.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Xcessive%20Manifold/1DC122AA-0FE9-496E-95B5-EB6C6609EED8_zpsrgovdwjw.jpg)

This is defiantly attention to detail , Very good work impressive like always

Work looks great as always

It's not that great. I just want it to be functional without looking like shit. This should work.

looking good Tim. Whats the goal for this block?

This is looking awesome Tim! You'll have to show me in person, its been too long!

Who's residential ac did you steal those fans from?

With the 1.3l blower and the new manifold, I'd like to see if I can make 500+ hp and 450 lb/ft.  I'm hoping the longer runners with this manifold design will help improve torque.  When I upgrade to the 2.3l blower, I'd like to see around 650-700 hp and 550-600 lb/ft. 

There are a few upgrades with the motor too.  It turns out the first machine shop was wrong and the cylinders were out of spec to run 88mm pistons.  I had to bore the sleeves out to 89mm and get new pistons.  From what I've been told, CP (my old pistons) calculated the compression ratio based on a 52cc combustion chamber, which is actually smaller than it actually is.  So my old set up was more like 10.5:1, instead of the advertised 11.1:1.  With the new pistons, they will actually be a true 11:1 compression.  Since my pistons are +2mm larger, it increases my displacement to 2463.6cc, which would technically make it a 2.5l now.  I'm also testing a larger .540 lift intake cam, a smaller blower pulley, larger injectors and a new manifold with a significantly upgraded water to air system.


Drop by any time man.  I should be around this weekend if you're free.  I'll even take you for a ride in the Civic.

I got the tracking info today for my motor.  It looks like it will be delivered tomorrow.  :cool:

I'll be getting it on the engine stand asap and claying it this weekend with the new high lift intake cam.


Those are actually SPAL 13" low profile puller fans, and move 1032 cfm each.  I picked them specifically because SPAL is well known for their electric fans and because they are only 2 1/16" deep.  With a radiator that has a core that's three times as thick as the stock one, I wanted to make sure that I had room for the supercharger since it will be in a different position than before with the new manifold design.  I think this set up should suit my cooling needs.  Overall, the radiator and fans should help a lot compared to the old stock set up.

I have a few updates with some pics. I was able to finish getting the motor back together last night. I'm just waiting on the fabrication to start on the blower plenum and then I should be close to done with the motor.

Since it's been a while that I've posted any pics, here's some of the progress since the last round.

Here's the Bell liquid to air core that I'll be shoehorning in between the blower and runners.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/02/yvebe5yp.jpg)

I found two holes in the trunk that were the perfect size for the bulkhead fittings I have for the water tank lines.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/02/umedy2es.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/02/7epe2amy.jpg)

I located the blower in the engine bay and made some brackets to hold it in place for the plenum fabrication.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/02/pa4e4ere.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/02/ju6avare.jpg)

Pulled the motor out and got it on a stand to double check everything before I brought it over to the guy doing the fab work on the plenum.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/02/mu6yry3e.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/02/ejabemap.jpg)

Then my buddy Stefan came over to help me check v2p clearance since he has a bunch of fancy tools.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/02/esusenah.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/02/apahagys.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/02/9ehegedu.jpg)

I had my Xcessive 58mm runners polished and a little more port work done in the intake side of my head.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/02/3y6ama5e.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/02/qeqy6uru.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/02/u9eqy4un.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/02/yrutu9uz.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/02/3ety9uqu.jpg)

I lapped the valves and got the head assembled this past weekend.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/02/eze4a5ag.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/02/3e4uze2y.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/02/y9a8yzyj.jpg)

I decided to put the head on since I had time. This made is seem like I was actually making progress.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/02/mebaduqe.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/02/5avuhuje.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/02/jyze6epe.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/02/pu3arysu.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/02/heredegy.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/02/mu7a6y4a.jpg)

So, last night I started putting more stuff on the motor and was able to get everything back together minus the accessories, which are bolted on to my mock up block right now for the plenum fabrication.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/02/y7a7eru2.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/02/uqysere9.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/02/ama9y6uh.jpg)

That is all for now.

If anyone cares, here are some more pics.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/16/e4y2umen.jpg)
Got my wheels cleaned up a little too so you can actually see the color when they're out in the sun.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/16/a9yme4yg.jpg)
And I decided to snap a picture with the Civic next to the Accord.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/16/usasajy8.jpg)
My new noise maker.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/12/y8ataqam.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/12/a6ysaza7.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/12/reryzenu.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/12/a9utubeq.jpg)

All of these are great but, man I love that Civic!

Thanks Mike. It's a great car.

Yup. Definitely a fan of the civic

SMH

As always, the built Accord is overshadowed by a completely bone stock Civic. Sleeper status achieved.

Its not your everyday civic.

Been slacking on my updates because it seems like people done care that much if I'm not doing a 7.5 front end conversion with a drop and some rimz with some stretched tires and a ton of camber in the rear.

For those that care. Here's the good part.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/18/a4b319be5818e564bd6730fb33bdea42.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/18/e7c2faf7e3ca38a309d4543828983ac4.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/18/cb8f85b182d3c10f2506545e8ee756af.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/18/4c5466ba9e7ce2f3a5c29dd40e942fa6.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/18/047373d060082760ea2fab76ecbd7eea.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/18/149dff55daed5abff5c2325f69188b5a.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/18/30b16457a7e8fbab925e7504a30df7a3.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/18/5df365859a785e57e8de32f00ec51b8f.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/18/3574fe88792ee0bb4660ac3147df3012.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/18/a7315c78c83f39622387ef41d5b5e7e0.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/18/be803771ebd39d7820f235283acdeb5d.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/18/7ed500c3a78ec268a0e7decd5f5541a4.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/18/86cac19630118946e9ff0dee49396b52.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/18/4c6b95b052d353a3c8c20445b6e86652.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/18/19b3a178c6e5318ac9d0082e04fcbb81.jpg)

Now the bad...
I busted 4th gear driving it part throttle. It could have been all the torque, but I suspect a bad gearset.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/18/6d75c1ead1ea8db426771f9b07716c49.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/18/f7fa45436c1c136e96c98d0c4edf66d0.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/18/c983bb986b7f3d46fccc9da5256fee50.jpg)

I care Tim. My accord's performance aspirations live vicariously through yours. As for the conversions, hellastretch mad tyte frush JDM yo shit, I could do without.

Just because I don't respond or comment doesn't mean that I don't care, bud. I check in, on the site, multiple times per day. As for your build, like Z, I live through yours ;).

I do care too, I'm constantly talking about your build with friends.
That thing is a beast !

by the way, did the gear bits damaged other gears too ?
I see some dents on other gear but don't know if they already are that way.
is it a 5 or 6 speed ?

I heard from a friend of mine that there has been some hype on FB. Not sure how true it is, but that's what I hear.

Gears and bearings are okay upon initial inspection. That may change once everything has been inspected after being torn apart. The dents or marks that you see on the gears is normal.

I have a 6 speed transmission. It was a TSX case with a 4.1 final drive from an Indian Market CR-V and a set of 2010 Si gears.

I'm keeping the final drive and just swapping in a TSX gearset. Also going to be test fitting some new wheels after Christmas. I'm going to borrow a set of wheels to see if they clearly calipers and how they sit. My guess is that they will be herrafrush because of their width and offset. I don't care that much in the front, since I am going to have my fenders widened to fit the wheels. In the rear, I'm a bit more concerned since I have no desire to hack anything up back there. Quarter panels don't unbolt like fenders do.

It is true about facebook, they linked on 7th gen accords FB page a screenshot of your dyno post on instagram.

I also saw the Facebook stuff. Its true.

I saw it too. And I do care, I'm just frustrated because I wish I knew more about what I'm looking at: ( I love it though; )

I'm not really familiar with gearing vs hp/tq, but wouldn't the SI gear ratio be bad for your power being that they are so close? The way I'm looking at it is if you're going to have a close ratio gear set with so much power you would need another couple gears, 8spd? If not, wouldn't you have been going through the gears rather quickly kinda like the j36 guys who have no use for 1st and sometimes 2nd? I'm just thinking longer gears would be better for that much power, maybe?

+1!    :hail:

At the time I got the Si gears, it was because they were more evenly spaced than the TSX. It's great for road racing, but my car will probably not see much time on a road course. Believe it or not, 1st and 6th are the same ratio between the Si and TSX transmissions.

Unfortunately, it has been a while since I drove on the TSX gearing and there were so many changes made (including the 4.1 final drive) to my drivetrain that I really didn't notice the subtle differences between the two set ups.

Longer gears is the idea. I'm going to be trying to get a set of PPG straight cut synchro gears. Compared here's a comparison of the gear ratios.

TSX
1st - 3.266
2nd - 1.88
3rd - 1.355
4th - 1.028

PPG
1st - 2.615
2nd - 1.666
3rd - 1.150
4th - .909

I'll still run a TSX 6th or maybe an 08 Accord 5th as my 6th gear. I'm still looking for a suitable 5th gear that will be a good ratio between the .909 of the PPG 4th and the .659/.647 6th. Most likely it will be an EP3 .780 5th gear or a DC5 .738 6th gear.

My goal with the stronger gearset is to do some standing mile and roll racing events. My main challenge will be traction. I'm going to test fit a set of Enkei RPF1's that are 18x10 +38 to see if I have enough back spacing. If they clear my calipers and knuckle, I can fit a 305/30/18 on them. I don't give a shit if they stick out because my fenders will be modified to fit the wheels.

A friend of mine has them (maybe not the exact same spec) and it is pretty wide XD
it also clears the RL calipers

(http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/ab109/Pascal_Godin/1010500_10151520969319862_436170315_n_zps402f058b.jpg) (http://s854.photobucket.com/user/Pascal_Godin/media/1010500_10151520969319862_436170315_n_zps402f058b.jpg.html)

(http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/ab109/Pascal_Godin/1521543_685968581489363_6053623484512461075_n_zps12ab4a11.jpg) (http://s854.photobucket.com/user/Pascal_Godin/media/1521543_685968581489363_6053623484512461075_n_zps12ab4a11.jpg.html)

Can you find out what spec they are?

I'm pretty sure I'm going to get a set of RPF1's so I can stuff some 305/30/18 R888's on them.

He told me 18X9.5 Inset 17 Front
18 x 9.5 inset 39 Rear
Hope this will help you out !

Yeah, that's what I thought. Longer gears are needed for that much power, but it also depends on what you're going to be using it for. As for wheels, why not 18x10.5 +15? Will definitely clear with that offset because the RPF1's aren't concave. Maybe even 18x9.5 +15. As long as the hub assembly can support them, should be good.

Thanks Pascal. I will be test fitting a set of 18x10 +38. I'll have to do the math with the offset and back spacing when I get home to compare them to your buddy's wheels. As long as they clear the calipers and the knuckle, I'm good.

I think 10.5" may be an option, but I also have to consider how much room I actually have to work with. Sedans can't run as low of an offset as coupes. With a 10" wide wheel, I can fit a 305 tire. That's like corvette territory for tires.

those will be huge  :D
But with that amount of power, you gotta have rubber transfer power to the ground.

Yeah. I've been lookin at drag radial set ups and there isn't much in the 275-285 range for 18's. I'm better off going with a 305.

Went to the dyno and got tuned yesterday. The car is insane. It was making too much torque at low rpms and my tuner pulled out timing to try and lower the tq so the motor wouldn't tear itself apart. Numbers are fairly impressive though. Peak power is 623 hp and 471 lb ft. It was making close to 400 lb ft at 3000 rpm. Fortunately, we were able to set up boost by gear on my supercharger, so power is limited in lower gears. The traction control will also make the car more driveable on the street.

I'll be posting my dyno plots after my tuner emails them to me on Monday.

(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/04/a1cf3e2b5e9dd2f26ee0d30e7d523049.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/04/e638d9af0cc4ab79cd17f6cad38aadf3.jpg)

Absolute insanity Tim but I love it!

It was amazing.  His car found the "brown note".  They tried runnin the dyno with the exhaust dump open and the frequency of the vibrations from the sound kept shutting the system down.

So glad to see your years of hard work and innovation pay off. Great work and great results congratulations.

Congrats Tim! Great numbers buddy. So When will it officially be back on the road?

Thanks guys. It's back and in the garage. I was going to drive it around today, but I just didn't have any time before the weather turned bad. I'll probably take it out on the road after I fix a small problem with the tb and clean up a few things in the engine bay.

Here's the dyno graph from yesterday's tune.

(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/04/b39a48afe14f7d20912e0b25e782454f.jpg)

Excellent results Tim.  Any future plans or is it time to sit back and enjoy what you built?

That graph is just beautiful. The torque must be a lot of fun as well.  

I'm definitely going to enjoy it for a while, but there are still some changes that will be made. I will be picking up a set of PPG straight cut gears with taller ratios. It's only a matter of time before I destroy another transmission, which is why I'm cautious to drive it. I'm considering a direct port nitrous set up, but we'll see if I pull the trigger on that. Other than that, I'm probably going to have the fenders modified to fit the wider wheel/tire set up that I want to run. After that stuff is done I'll be putting the stereo back in the car. I will probably be building an amp rack that bolts in and will be easily removable when I want to cut weight from the car for track events.


Thanks. The torque is actually kind of scary. There's just so much of it so early that it makes things kind of insane. Fortunately boost by gear works, so I am able to limit boost and power in lower gears.

Are you still spraying meth with your current setup? I assume you were using E85 for the latest dyno tune?

Yes. This was on E85. We didn't feel that we could regulate the boost consistently to run pump gas. I'll probably go back for a pump gas tune in the summer with a larger blower pulley.

I'm using 2 5 gph water meth nozzles.

Just saw a post on honda-tech about this, and thought, "I haven't been to ecm lately!"

CONGRATS

Thanks.

man i am so jelly. must be a blast to finally drive

Can't drive it. It snowed last night. I need to tweak a few things too.

Yeah, your going to have a hard enough time keeping her straight on dry pavement.....

Yeah. I know that. Boost by gear and traction control are going to be helpful with this car.

That and so good old fashion foot control ;) :P

True. Though, a 90 mm tb is a bit harder to regulate than a stock one. I have some plans to help insure better traction on warm dry roads. The taller 4.052 final drive, taller 1-4 PPG straight cut gears and 10" wide wheels with some 305 drag radials should help a little.

Just go slicks. :P

Find me a set of slicks for an 18" wheel.

Have you ever thought about making provisions for using dry ice in your A2W setup? Obviously it wouldn't be something you would want to run all the time, maybe for the standing mile events. Might give you a few more horses, unless you are nearing the edge of diminishing returns as far as IAT for your setup.

My IAT's were 20° F below ambient with 48 lbs of ice in the tank and it lasted for about an hour. With just using ice, I gained an additional 19 hp and 31 lb/ft. I'm at the point of maxing out my fuel system with an injector duty cycle of 94%. At this point, I need to upgrade to a dual in tank set up or a surge tank with dual BOSCH 044's. I'm pretty sure the surge tank will be my next move because I will need more fuel when I add a direct port nitrous set up later.

94% WAYYY TOOOO HIGH, injectors can easily saturate above 80%, basically be stuck open.....

I trust my tuner to do the right thing.

Monster.. simply a monster. Like I said on IG, glad you have her going, Tim. Congrats!

You are cable throttle if I remember right. The is a way to help alot with low throttle control, I am sure you have seen throttle pulleys that have a "eccentric" shape,  that is done so that it takes much more cable travel to open the first 10 to 20% of the butterfly giving better low throttle control.

http://www.gktech.com/index.php/v2-s14a-s15-eccentric-throttle-wheel.html (http://www.gktech.com/index.php/v2-s14a-s15-eccentric-throttle-wheel.html)

Kschwiggy used to run TLS 17' wheels with slicks for his AutoX racing, they cleared the RL caliper setup he was running without issue.

That is genius ! haven't thought of it but it makes sense, of course I don't need it with my stock k24a2 lol

BTW Tim, I saw your little video on instagram, that is fucking impressive !

17" wheels don't clear the calipers.  The 13" rotors have the calipers spaced out far enough that they hit the barrel.  I'd have to pick up rotors that will work with everything.  I'm not against it, but I'm more inclined to get drag radials on a set of 18" wheels.