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Author Topic: Rear brake contact  (Read 25749 times)
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Asim
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« on: October 31, 2011, 10:21:31 PM »
My rear brakes have definitely been slacking for months.. I've been able to stop but sometimes the stopping distance sucks.

You can hear/feel a grinding but its not a brake shudder like a warped rotor feels like

Here you can see the rear brakes aren't making full contact on the rotor. Front makes perfect contact though.
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MyNameIsThien
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« Reply #1 on: November 01, 2011, 12:21:25 AM »
You may need to change the rotors and pads. It looks like those rotors are rust pitted, and that is the reason in your braking distance.
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Rushzer0
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« Reply #2 on: November 01, 2011, 07:17:02 AM »
Mine looked like that for a while...well worse actually
Check your caliper while your there mine was toast and needed to be replaced so I did. From what I read it's pretty common
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« Reply #3 on: November 01, 2011, 03:14:33 PM »
Yeah, there is a good chance your caliper is seized.  Mine did something similar which eventually caused the opposite side rear rotor to warp since I guess it was the only rear brake working. Take your caliper off the rotor and have someone apply the brakes.  See how easily, if at all, the piston comes out.  If it isn't smooth, I'd just replace it.  I went through the trouble of working the piston in and out with a leaf spring and BreakFree for half an hour for it only to seize up a month or two down the road and cost me another set of rotors. Good luck.
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timot_one
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« Reply #4 on: November 01, 2011, 11:36:12 PM »
I'd replace the rotors and pads, and test your calipers.  Basically what everyone else has said already.
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Tim
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« Reply #5 on: November 02, 2011, 08:41:48 AM »
Add me to the list that has had to replace calipers... When I bought mine the core charge was more than that cost of the caliper which indicates that they are in extreme demand by the Reman companies. Usually an indication that the parts fail often.
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Asim
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« Reply #6 on: November 13, 2011, 08:13:06 PM »


43018-SDA-A00    6       CALIPER SUB-ASSY., R. RR.       USA    
   
43018-SDA-A00RM    6       CALIPER SUB-ASSY., R. RR. (RMD)       USA    
      
43019-SDA-A00    7       CALIPER SUB-ASSY., L. RR.       USA    
   
43019-SDA-A00RM    7       CALIPER SUB-ASSY., L. RR. (RMD)


I need a 6 and 7 correct to replace my calipers? Do I need anything other than that?

Any valid aftermarket solutions?

What does (RMD) mean in the link?
« Last Edit: November 13, 2011, 11:31:57 PM by Asim » Logged

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timot_one
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« Reply #7 on: November 13, 2011, 10:17:27 PM »
Whatever link you used, doesn't work.  I tried to modify it, but it still doesn't work.  Try a different site like hondaautomotiveparts.com and repost or modify your previous post.
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Tim
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Asim
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« Reply #8 on: November 13, 2011, 11:32:07 PM »
Fixed it up
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timot_one
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« Reply #9 on: November 13, 2011, 11:41:52 PM »
Yeah. That's pretty much what you need. 
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Tim
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« Reply #10 on: November 16, 2011, 10:26:10 PM »
Any aftermarket alternatives?

What would you recommend I go with, OEM or an aftermarket solution?

Funny question: Could the front calipers be used on the rear with some modification?
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« Reply #11 on: November 16, 2011, 11:47:08 PM »
You cannot use the front calipers for the rears. The rear calipers are an integrated e-brake caliper.
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Asim
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« Reply #12 on: November 17, 2011, 12:25:52 PM »
Thanks!

Still looming question about whether to go aftermarket
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« Reply #13 on: November 17, 2011, 12:36:07 PM »
Quote from: Asim on November 17, 2011, 12:25:52 PM
Thanks!

Still looming question about whether to go aftermarket

Generally aftermarket = Rebuilt OEM I can feed you some numbers on calipers as well if you would like just PM me.
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Asim
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« Reply #14 on: November 17, 2011, 02:02:40 PM »
So for example, raysbestos rear calipers are just OEM parts redone?

Does that mean they may suffer the same fate as my oem calipers?

There are plenty of raysbestos part numbers.. how do I know which one to take?

Of course I don't want to buy a loose caliper, Do they normally include pads?
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