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My rear brakes have definitely been slacking for months.. I've been able to stop but sometimes the stopping distance sucks.

You can hear/feel a grinding but its not a brake shudder like a warped rotor feels like

Here you can see the rear brakes aren't making full contact on the rotor. Front makes perfect contact though.

(http://i.imgur.com/jxsuq.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/jkrFD.jpg)

You may need to change the rotors and pads. It looks like those rotors are rust pitted, and that is the reason in your braking distance.

Mine looked like that for a while...well worse actually (http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j51/rushzer0/5e6b13d9.jpg)
Check your caliper while your there mine was toast and needed to be replaced so I did. From what I read it's pretty common

Yeah, there is a good chance your caliper is seized.  Mine did something similar which eventually caused the opposite side rear rotor to warp since I guess it was the only rear brake working. Take your caliper off the rotor and have someone apply the brakes.  See how easily, if at all, the piston comes out.  If it isn't smooth, I'd just replace it.  I went through the trouble of working the piston in and out with a leaf spring and BreakFree for half an hour for it only to seize up a month or two down the road and cost me another set of rotors. Good luck.

I'd replace the rotors and pads, and test your calipers.  Basically what everyone else has said already.

Add me to the list that has had to replace calipers... When I bought mine the core charge was more than that cost of the caliper which indicates that they are in extreme demand by the Reman companies. Usually an indication that the parts fail often.

(http://www.hondapartsdeals.com/hpa/images/illustration/65/1144805.png)

43018-SDA-A00    6       CALIPER SUB-ASSY., R. RR.       USA    
   
43018-SDA-A00RM    6       CALIPER SUB-ASSY., R. RR. (RMD)       USA    
      
43019-SDA-A00    7       CALIPER SUB-ASSY., L. RR.       USA    
   
43019-SDA-A00RM    7       CALIPER SUB-ASSY., L. RR. (RMD)


I need a 6 and 7 correct to replace my calipers? Do I need anything other than that?

Any valid aftermarket solutions?

What does (RMD) mean in the link?

Whatever link you used, doesn't work.  I tried to modify it, but it still doesn't work.  Try a different site like hondaautomotiveparts.com and repost or modify your previous post.

Fixed it up

Yeah. That's pretty much what you need. 

Any aftermarket alternatives?

What would you recommend I go with, OEM or an aftermarket solution?

Funny question: Could the front calipers be used on the rear with some modification?

You cannot use the front calipers for the rears. The rear calipers are an integrated e-brake caliper.

Thanks!

Still looming question about whether to go aftermarket

Generally aftermarket = Rebuilt OEM I can feed you some numbers on calipers as well if you would like just PM me.

So for example, raysbestos rear calipers are just OEM parts redone?

Does that mean they may suffer the same fate as my oem calipers?

There are plenty of raysbestos part numbers.. how do I know which one to take?

Of course I don't want to buy a loose caliper, Do they normally include pads?

They will probably fail at some point in time. Unless they specify new they are probably remans, and a loaded caliper (difficult to find) will come with pads but, they are generally pads you would want on your car anyway. I can probably get a set of remans pretty cheap. I think I paid $50 for the driver caliper that I just changed.

Rock auto has loaded ones...

Kinda unfortunate that even if i get OEM or aftermarket they might fail down the road...   I guess they did last ~150000km

If you can get me prices on loaded ones (ie I don't have to rebuild the entire caliper with all the little parts) I'd appreciate that

i don't really care about having pads included though

All calipers come with those parts. Loaded is only referring to brake pads. Hardware is always included, and generally brackets are as well.

Ah! Gotcha... that helps a lot

If I buy OEM as shown on previous page, is that also "assembled" w/o pads

No idea but, I wouldn't spend the extra cash on them so I couldn't tell you.

I think the right word is semi-loaded for what im after

yes...

Rock auto is charging about 120 for semi loaded calipers... including the core charge

Core charge means I have to send my rotors back in to them to save right, almost like a deposit?

I don't think that would really be worth it for me sending it back from Canada would be costly...

I could go OEM for 10$ more \

How did you get for 50$?

He has an employee discount at NAPA.

I could get you all the calipers you need for 250 but there is like 220 in core charges... So it would be like 470 then 220 returned to you. But like you said the shipping sucks.

Not trying to cock-block Mike from a sale (He's a good guy was willing to help me out) , but I'm located in Canada so I can check at work when I get back from lunch how much it would be if you want. Not sure how much they are but the shipping would be cheaper at least :p also I'm the warehouse manager, so no commission for me aha just trying to help a fellow member.

I already suggested you via PM... I could care less about the sale.

BTW he's looking for Accord rears and legend GS fronts.

Brand/manufacturer?

Thanks for the help guys!

Oh ok good aha! I know some people make their living off sales. I just didn't want to take food off anyones table, so to speak. Brand is DNS they are rebuilt semi loaded calipers. The grand total is a staggering $866.62 taxes in. But $260 of that is core charges, so $606.62 with your cores (if you can find some ruined legend calipers from a junkyard to give us for cores or something) or if you can't locate legend cores it's $716.62 :/ kinda pricey I'm sure I can get a better price if I talk to the manager (the person I went to for the quote is a tight ass and didn't apply any sort of discount :p), and maybe work something out with shipping.

Holy shit parts are expensive in Canada... I'd take Accords back as cores on legends.

Ya it's pricey for stuff here :p like I said though I can talk to the manager maybe knock a good chunk off that. The counter person wouldn't use my discount, but the manager might allow it. My price was around $560 taxes in

Thanks for the price. Definitely high but sadly we get rocked in Canada.

I'll drive down to Buffalo for a deal ;)

@Mike, which brand were you quoting prices on?

Again... everyone has been a great help

I think Fenco reman's are the only ones I could get my hands on.

make sure you align the cross on piston the right way. if you didnt before there is a chance why it wasnt working correctly

^Good point.  You need to make sure the little dimple in the pad is in that "slot" in the piston.

Long update.... Mechanic checked out the rears today

Rear caliper he said probably needs replacing, pads and rotors have to go as well

Front pads and rotors are good...

Do I need to replace pads or rotors on all four corners?

If the front rotors and pads are good, then there's no need to replace them.

I'm also in the same boat here. I replaced my front and rear brakes summer 2010, the fronts are wearing fine, the rears have concentric rust rings on the rotors. About 2 months ago I took the rear calipers off, and the slide pins were stuck. I cleaned them off, lubed them up, and re installed. After driving a couple of days, I checked the rear rotors, and the rust rings were getting worn off. I thought I had fixed the problem. Now 2 months later, the problem has returned. Maybe I just need to really lube them up again. Is it worth replacing the slide pins or anything?
 

You can get the pins pretty cheap. The design of the calipers is poor to say the least.

You may also want to check the rubber boot that covers the slide pin. If it isnt fully sealed off, water and other dirt/debris can seap inside causing the pins to seize up.

I replaced all my rear sliding pin and boot. Those pin also wear out over time.

i has same issue on my driver side one , what has worked for me was changing the brake lines to stainless steels ones . after going through  3 pairs of calipers i notice that my rear line had too much play when they get hot ,getting spongy and causing the caliper not to work properly

Anyways update... I bought locally rebuilt OEM calipers
Got them installed with new rear pads and rotors

Now my brake pedal is soft. Braking is good and a lot better if I stomp, but I have to press more than I used to

Shop was saying either the new calipers had a problem or the master cylinder is toast... thoughts? They were leaning to the master cylinder

Sounds odd if the issue wasn't there before I would lean toward what they just changed. That or some air in the lines.

Sounds like they didn't properly bleed the calipers out correctly.

What those guys said.  If the only thing that changed was the calipers, then they probably didn't bleed the brakes properly.  It just sounds like the shop you're going to is more concerned with bleeding your wallet.

Well Thursday the calipers were changed and it was very soft

Tuesday they re-bled everything and it was better, but not the same feeling as before changing the calipers. Also they isolated the rear lines with clamps to see if the caliper was the trouble but same feeling still which made them lean to the master cylinder.

Press hard the braking is really good. Press lightly it slows down but its not predictable vs the travel of the pedal.

When I replaced my pads over the weekend I noticed that the front pads were almost new, but my rear pads were worn half way down. In your experience, is this normal wear?

Thanks!

Calipers screw in easy?

Yeah. No problems there.

I'm thinking maybe i over tightened the e-brake last time.  It's like 8 or 9 clicks rights?

If you mean when pulling the handle up its 4-7.

If thats the case, then I don't know.  I guess nobody else has noticed their rear pad wear being more aggressive than the front.

Your calipers have never been replaced?

Nope, never

I would bet that they are sticking. Most people have replaced them at least once.

I wouldn't know too much about the rear caliper issue as I still have drums. I have yet to replace anything back there but I should probably give them a once over some day.

I have, however, heard of the rear calipers wearing down quicker than the front on newer gens of several vehicles because of how the brake biasing was adjusted to give vehicles less nose dive like vehicles of old. I could be wrong and don't have concrete evidence to back that up.

Interesting.  Next time I do brakes I'll give you a call for a new set of rear calipers. Thanks mike.

They are pretty cheap. Probably right around 100

I'm pretty sure that's exactly the reason why. It's happened on my old Accord, I'm sure it's happened to the first owner of my current Accord, and it just happened to my grandfather's 08 Accord. However, I think there is an issue with his rear brakes. The inside pads are completely worn to nothing, while the outside pads still have like a quarter inch left. Dafuck?

Its how Honda designed their braking system. It has to do with the proportiong valve. It sends more pressure to the rear so that way when you hard brake, you dont go nose diving. Its common for your rear brakes to wear out faster then your fronts. This was the case way back when the 7th Gens first came out. Everyone was getting their pads replaced under warranty due to it only lasting less then 25k. My stock rear pads only lasted to 19k miles before it was down to 1mm of pad thickness.

And I nailed it. Woohoo!

Thanks Thien. I was gonna buy new calipers on my next brake job. You saved me some dough.

And there is your hard evidence Z. All newer Honda with integrated e-brake calipers will wear the rear pads down first before the fronts. The only exception is rear drum setup and or Honda's with e-brake shoes and no integrated e-brake calipers. Then the fronts wear down first for those who dont have the integrated e-brake calipers.

No problem at all. I highly suggest keeping your slide pins lubricated. A sign of a worn slide pin is if you notice the outboard pad wearing down faster then the inboard. Vice versa, if you see an inboard pad wear down first, the caliper is seizing up.

Also, always make sure you have clean brake fluid. Over time, brake fluid can collect copper contaminant, and it can travel throughout your brake system causing seals in the calipers to wear down and or seize the pistons in the calipers.