Audio/Video Q&A Thread

[CrackerTeg]

As Tim stated with regards to the backwaves, the "gasket" provides a cushion to muffle the vibrations from your speaker. As quickly as the speaker cone moves, it creates minor vibrations that distort the sound. By adding that foam to the mating surface, you cushion against those vibrations and improve the sound of your speaker. Correct me if I'm wrong here Tim.

[timot_one]

Sorry Z, but you're a bit off.  The reason for the gasket is to seal the speaker from it's own back waves.  Since your speaker moves back and forth, it emits sound from the front of the cone and the back of the cone.  The sound emitting from the back of the cone is called a back wave.  That will reflect of the surface behind it (eg. - your door skin) and if your speaker is not sealed, the sound will come through the unsealed area and the back wave will interfere with the front wave and some frequencies will cancel out.  It's has a similar effect as wiring a pair of speakers out of phase.

The best way to do this is to seal the openings in your doors the best you can and seal the front and the back of the speaker so that you have an infinite baffle.  Obviously, this is kind of hard to do.  Sealing your speakers is the next best thing you can do on a budget.  You can even use sound deadening material like dynamat or b-quiet as your gasket.

[thisaznboi88]

its like dynamating the speaking without spending and arm and a leg. You might want to look into that also to help improve the sound quality.

[CrackerTeg]

Meh. I tried.

[timot_one]

its like dynamating the speaking without spending and arm and a leg.

No, it's not actually.

[quickkick127]

Alright, thanks guys.  I thought that's what you meant but figured the only way to really seal off the backwaves is to completely enclose the back of the speakers but your just concerned about the backwaves in the immediate area around the speaker.  A guy at work referred to this as standard practice anytime your installing speakers. I didn't realize those backwaves could be such an issue.  Thanks again for the explanation.

[Armyguy239]

Not me. That shit was out of my price range. I do have the ck3100 and love it for its handsfreeness. Yes. That's a word because I made it up.

oh I bought one, just trying to see where people mounted theirs... i paid 160 for it

[CrackerTeg]

The brain is under the console and the actual interface is in the sunglass holder. The thing is totally hidden.

[Armyguy239]

cool. i'll be back in FL on friday, gotta see where i want to put it

[thisaznboi88]

LOC blows on stock system blows... Need to get an audio processor. Has anyone worked with the MTX re-q?? I just want bass.

[cna]

LOC blows on stock system blows... Need to get an audio processor. Has anyone worked with the MTX re-q?? I just want bass.

I was just about to ask same question i saw them on sale but havent seen anyone install them on a 7gen yet ,also how will you go about installing it would i need to use somthing like the PAC AOEM-HON20 ?

[thisaznboi88]

Just going to run the signal from the rear 2 speaks. Cut and soldier.  I just want the sub to sound good. I wan the MTX req-5 because the regular one have ground loop noise issue.

I seen a lot of build on driveraccord but its like mixed reviews.

[timot_one]

LOC blows on stock system blows... Need to get an audio processor. Has anyone worked with the MTX re-q?? I just want bass.

Just going to run the signal from the rear 2 speaks. Cut and soldier.  I just want the sub to sound good. I wan the MTX req-5 because the regular one have ground loop noise issue.

So wait, what's your problem?  Does it not sound good, is there no bass, or are you getting a ground loop noise?  You're not exactly clear on what the problem is, and each problem will require a different solution.

If you're just going to run the speaker signal from your rear speakers only to the processor, you're wasting your time.  Why spend $180 on a processor that you're not even going to use to it's full potential?  You're just wasting money at that point.  Seriously, all you're doing right now is cutting corners.  Why not do it right the first time?  All you're really doing is using a half ass bandaid to fix the problems created by a half ass install.

If you're really looking for advice, then do it right the first time and stop wasting your time and money.

[thisaznboi88]

just going to redo it. Thanks for your help Tim

[cna]

So i got a new Rockford Fosgate's PBR300X1 amp the spec's say  to power it use a 10 gauge wire amp kit should i go with 4 gauge instead for the long run? its only 300 watts nothing major am planing to pair it with a PBR300X4 in future so am thinking running 4 gauge to a distribution block and down size the wire gauge from there to power both would it be a good idea?