How To: RL advics front brake installation

[AV6NHBP6SPD]

RL brake install.

disclaimer. im not responsible if you hurt yourself while doing this mod. use common sense

Parts needed
1. 05+ Acura RL brake calipers ~$300
2. 05+ Acura RL brake pads (oem(advics) or EBC) ~$90
3. 03+ Nissan 350z/g35 brembo option rotors (paul said to use 05 350z rotors), brackets will work with up to 14" rotors. 350z are 12.688 rotors. for comparison stock accord rotors are 11.1" ~150+
4. Pauls Brackets $140 shipped (price may change, contact NVA-AV6)
5. honda DOT3 brake fluid (check your dealer for price)

optional
6. Stainless Steal brake lines (goodridge is recommended by many, stoptech will work too i guess). goodridge comes as kit of 4 lines front and back. stoptech you can get front and back separate (~$120 for goodridge)


tools you gona need
8mm, 10mm, 17mm, 19mm wrench
12mm normal socket, and deep sockets 14mm, 17mm, 19mm sockets
impact philips screw driver or cordless impact driver
brake bleeding kit or you can get your friend to help




1.   Raise the front of the car and support it with safety stands in proper locations
2.   since you replacing brakes completely just remove 2 17mm bolts that hold whole assembly to the knuckle. They should be tight so get extended wrench.
3.   Remove  brake hose mounting bolt (bracket that holds brake line to knuckle) using 12mm socket

4.   Take bolts out and pull off brake assembly and rest it on control arm or something. DO NOT disconnect brake line at this point because brake fluid will just keep leaking out.
5.   Remove brake disk. You will probably need impact philips screw driver (huge screw driver that you can hit with hammer and turn at same time). I used my dewalt cordless driver for this and it worked fine
6.   Once that removed you are almost ready to install brackets (order of installation: bracket, brake disk, caliper)
7.   The washer goes between the top of the caliper and the nut, it is there to help prevent paint tearing while tightening the nuts down. Also the first time you install the calipers onto the brackets you will notice that the brackets are slightly wider than the notches on the calipers. This is done purposely so that when you tighten the calipers down they will "Bite" into the brackets and mate themselves to the brackets tightly, so you want to make sure the are flush with the bracket. - Note from Paul
8.   In order to mount brackets you need to trim brake shield a little like this


using metal scissors or maybe you can bend it somehow. I choose to cut it off. You might have to bend brake shield a little to it doesn’t scrape brake rotor.
9.   Now grease both bolts with anti-seize (I used copper based couse that’s what I had)

and put bracket on DO NOT forget to put provided washer on bolt

I tightened bolts to 80ft/lbs (Honda torque speck for caliper bracket bolt is 79.6ft/lbs so I guess it should be fine but ask Paul when you order brackets). Once that’s tight you ready to put brake disk on.
10.   Put brake disk on. You will probably notice that its not sitting on center couse bore diameter for Nissan is bigger then Honda so you will need some kinda spacer to keep disk centered. I used metal spacers and put them on 3 studs and it centered the disk

11.   Once that’s on you can put new caliper on bracket (don’t forget to make notches in bracket or remove notches on caliper or use washer provided)
12.   Put caliper on and put some anti-seize on studs. WARNING studs are too long to use with some 17” wheels (in my case TL-S) they will scrape wheel barrel so they need to be trimmed by about half inch


 I used grinder when brackets were on the car. You can do it off the car and make it easier on yourself.
13.   Tighten nuts to about 80ft/lbs (Paul said 60-80ft/lbs)
14.   Put brake pads in.
15.   This step is if you putting new/stainless steal lines on. You can reuse you old brake line if you want to. Remove clip that holds brake line to bracket, it just slides out with pliers or something. Now you can disconnect brake line with 10mm wrench and remove it. It might be tight on it so be careful not to snap the line. Once you removed lower portion of brake line, put new brake line right back on it and tighten it.
16.   Bleed the brakes and dont forget to put new brake fluid in
17.   Put wheel back on. Do same for other side

comparison
before

after

[timot_one]

Stickied!

[Milan]

I freaked out a little when I saw the bottle of loctite until I realized it was anti sieze lol. 

[AV6NHBP6SPD]

no faith in me ha?

[NVA-AV6]

Just so you guys know, the washer goes between the top of the caliper and the nut, it is there to help prevent paint tearing while tightening the nuts down. Also the first time you install the calipers onto the brackets you will notice that the brackets are slightly wider than the notches on the calipers. This is done purposely so that when you tighten the calipers down they will "Bite" into the brackets and mate themselves to the brackets tightly, so you want to make sure the are flush with the bracket.

[AV6NHBP6SPD]

oh ok. thought washer went between caliper and bracket. good thing i didnt put it in that palace. so i guess i shouldnt have modified the brakets. ill change that in write up

[gargantula99]

Would these calipers fit within my stock V6 17" rims without me having to get spacers?

[CrackerTeg]

Doubtful.

[ikethegreat]

They will not. 

[Pascal]

Made a replica of those brackets Paul makes once for one of my friends. I made some small design modification to make it fit between the tabs of the caliper and also used a long bolt instead of studs so it wouldn't need some lock-tight in the aluminum block. Here's mine vs Paul's ones. Mine (on left) cost me around 40$ a pair with the bolts and all (without labor of fabricating them)

[timot_one]

I still prefer the studs over bolts for these calipers.

[Pascal]

Mechanically speaking they are the same. It may be easier to slide the caliper into the studs than try to line-up the bolts into the holes. I prefer not having studs coming out of the nuts on top and not having to buff them. Both have their good and bad i guess.

[Jeff Likes Bagels]

I love milling. I need to upgrade to the RL calipers and get bigger wheels just so I can machine me some brackets. I'd probably end up over engineering it and using stainless instead. No potential for stripped threads then.

[Pascal]

Good luck stripping those threads 6061-T6 is a great material to work with. Also, stainless steel is way heavier and harder to machine.
If you want my plans you can have them though. Maybe you could ask Paul his permission before making yourself a pair. ( Sorry I didn't )

[Jeff Likes Bagels]

I'm used to machining stainless now, it's all we use at work lol. I actually have to machine some 440C and then heat treat it for a project; need really good wear resistance as well as corrosion resistance.

Anyways, back on topic, I noticed you have stock 16" wheels in your sig. Don't you need at least 17" for the RL calipers?