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Author Topic: How To: Install Headers  (Read 35949 times)
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NWINNIE34
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« Reply #15 on: July 09, 2009, 10:43:59 PM »

im really thinking thats the exact piece i need...anyone agree/disagree?
if i dont hear back i'll call the number tomorrow and ask questions...order it asap
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2006 PWP TSX, 6Spd, Nav, Ebony Interior

Custom Comptech Icebox, Ralco UD Pulleys, 22mm Progress Tech RSB, LED Reverse/License plate lights, M3 lip spoiler, Hondata Heatshield and P2R IM gaskets, OBX Oil catch can, Hawk HPS Pads

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« Reply #16 on: July 09, 2009, 10:52:45 PM »

Wow I didnt know that the hole for the O2 sensor was moved that far down. Is there any kind of adaptor available for the O2 sensor?
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Jeff Likes Bagels
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« Reply #17 on: July 09, 2009, 11:15:35 PM »

sheesh, i didn't realize how much one of these things costs...

oh well, maybe it'll be my next mod if i can save up the money.
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« Reply #18 on: August 03, 2009, 05:27:25 PM »

can I do the installation on ramps? lol
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« Reply #19 on: August 03, 2009, 06:22:50 PM »

sure... just make sure those ramps are high haha... there is alot of under-the-car cranking and dissassembling that needs to be done
 i had mine on uber high jack stands....scary as shit to tell ya the truth

its more of a comfort thing.... even what i had wasnt enough... it was intense under the car like that, not much room at all...

start PB Blasting your connections now.... the downpipe connecting to the CAT.... those 3 bolts are a BITCH...lemme tell you....
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2006 PWP TSX, 6Spd, Nav, Ebony Interior

Custom Comptech Icebox, Ralco UD Pulleys, 22mm Progress Tech RSB, LED Reverse/License plate lights, M3 lip spoiler, Hondata Heatshield and P2R IM gaskets, OBX Oil catch can, Hawk HPS Pads

thisaznboi88
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« Reply #20 on: August 03, 2009, 10:08:45 PM »

haha yeah I just bought a car of PB blaster from walmart FTW. I also found out my car is way too low for the ramp. So I guess I gotta jack stand.
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« Reply #21 on: August 14, 2009, 08:32:00 PM »

OMG F the header installation. 2-3hr my ass took me 5hr. lol I am all cut up and stuff. Thank god for PB blaster and 3 1ft extension + 1 6in extension, and 18in breaker bar, and 3 jack stand so I can place the extension on it. The Cat bolt were a bitch to get off. Had to make an extension all the way to the front of the car so I could move it since I didn't have leverage while I was under the car. Also that one bracket that connect the motor to the car is a bitch also. I wanted to cut it off since it was soooooo hard to get a 3/8 under there to break it free.

Overall, Great mod I can feel the low end tq come back. it wasn't as good as the pulley but its pretty good. Also it smells right now I think because all the pb blaster and stuff is getting burnt off.

Another thing does the car make a whistle at like 3k+ I looked at the header before I installed them and the welding looked shitty for DC headers. There was chips inside of both of the tube that goes 4-2. The 2-1 the flange was welding kinda sideways like 1-2* off. O well it was a fun experience. I will never do it ever again lol
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« Reply #22 on: January 08, 2010, 10:55:36 AM »

for those who do this install and have the issue with the o2 sensor wires being too short to reach the new hole, you can extend the wires using butt connectors(i think?). my brother just installed an X-Pipe on his mustang gt and needed to extend his o2 sensors and he did it that way. so far no CEL.
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« Reply #23 on: January 08, 2010, 11:12:32 AM »

Quote from: "rjp6262"
for those who do this install and have the issue with the o2 sensor wires being too short to reach the new hole, you can extend the wires using butt connectors(i think?). my brother just installed an X-Pipe on his mustang gt and needed to extend his o2 sensors and he did it that way. so far no CEL.
I'd refrain from using butt connectors on something like that. At the minimum, solder the sensor wires to the extension wires and heat shrink the individual followed by heatshrinking over the entire assembly. An o2 sensor is not one of those things you want fucked up by the elements.
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« Reply #24 on: February 02, 2010, 08:36:39 PM »

There is an extension that you can buy from DC or Casper Electronics.  As for using butt connectors, well, it's a bad idea.  Don't expect that to last without ruining your sensor and possibly causing a fire.
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« Reply #25 on: February 02, 2010, 09:14:28 PM »

my headers came with the extension cable. If not you can order it. Its 15 bucks + shipping. I can't remember where I found it.
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« Reply #26 on: February 02, 2010, 10:15:18 PM »

I got mine from whoever bought DC from AEM.  I think it's Pilot.  Casper electronics has them too.
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Tim
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« Reply #27 on: May 02, 2010, 06:14:26 PM »

Hey guys, I'm in the process of getting the header installed, and ran into some bad luck right off the bat. Of the 3 bolts that secure the heat shield, the top two popped off like nothing, but the lower one was seized, and after an aggressive negotiation with a pair of vice grips, the head of the bolt is rounded (stupid, I know). Gator sockets won't touch it, so before I decide to take it to a shop, I had a quick idea I wanted to run by you guys. Since it's the lower bolt, can I just bend the heat shield backwards and proceed with the install, or does it have to come off?
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« Reply #28 on: May 02, 2010, 08:25:27 PM »

If its the heatshield you're having problems with while removing the stock manifold, just rip that shit off. You don't need it. Tin snips, dremel, bending it back and forth until it breaks, whatever it takes. If you're trying to put the heat shield back... why?
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« Reply #29 on: May 02, 2010, 10:07:39 PM »

Quote from: "CrackerTeg"
If its the heatshield you're having problems with while removing the stock manifold, just rip that shit off. You don't need it. Tin snips, dremel, bending it back and forth until it breaks, whatever it takes. If you're trying to put the heat shield back... why?

Just trying to get it off.. Thanks man.
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