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Author Topic: How To: Front Brake Change  (Read 18717 times)
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thisaznboi88
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« on: November 19, 2009, 10:06:42 PM »

Disclaimer: I am not responsible for you if you plan to use this as a guide. You have read and understand that this may involve risks. You are responisble for double check to see if you forgot something in the process that was not covered here in the DIY. I have outline some of the part that I found critical in doing this. *aka part that if you don't do correctly you will die*. If you don't know what the heck you are doing do not attempt this. Take it to a pro. The brake system is the only thing stopping your car from hitting that car in front of you.

Tool:
2 wench
1 torque wench
1 breaker bar
1 rubber mallet
1 Complete socket set ranging from 10mm to 20mm (you don't need all of them just 19mm, 17mm, 14mm, and 10mm)
1 Complete open wench set (or just 19mm)
1 impact screw driver
Wheel lock key
Glove and eye protection
Piston compressor tool or C-clamp
A set of any Brake pads and rotors that you plan on using

yummy beefy

Package of grease for pads
2 brake fluid bottle *if you want to do a flush*

Here we go for pad change only:

First loosen the bolts on the rims with the 19mm sockets and wheel lock

Then Jack up the passenger side of the car first

Then you should see your sexy caliper here:


What you want to do is use the 15mm and remove the bolts on the top of the caliper if you want to only change brakes pad only. Its the top bolt with the rubber boot. First you want to get a breaker bar and loosen it up with a 15mm socket, then switch to a socket wench with the 15mm socket and use a open wench 19mm to hold the nut on the caliper so that it won't move. It is the nut next to the rubber boot.  After that it should flip down and you can take out the old pads





After you got the old pad out use the piston compress or c-clamp to put the piston back into place. This is very important since your going to be bitching for the next 20min and be like why won't this shit go in wtf man? After that put in the brake pads.



Then bolt everything back up the way it should have been


Here we go for pad change and rotors:

First loosen the bolts on the rims with the 19mm sockets and wheel lock

Then Jack up the passenger side of the car first

Then you should see your sexy caliper here:


What you want to do is use the 15mm and remove the bolts on the top of the caliper if you want to only change brakes pad only. Its the top bolt with the rubber boot. First you want to get a breaker bar and loosen it up with a 15mm socket, then switch to a socket wench with the 15mm socket and use a open wench 19mm to hold the nut on the caliper so that it won't move. It is the nut next to the rubber boot.  After that it should flip down and you can take out the old pads





After you got the old pad out use the piston compress or c-clamp to put the piston back into place. This is very important since your going to be bitching for the next 20min and be like why won't this shit go in wtf man? Also loosen the 2 10mm bolt that hold the brakeline in place and place your calipers somewhere on the car were it will not hang from the brake lines *very important if you don't want to die*

After that you will need to use a 17mm socket to remove the 2 bolt that hold down the caliper brackets to the car. The brackets look something like this: I took the time to paint my new brackets black with VHT caliper paint.



After the brackets are remove you should see the rotor and 2 screws that are holding it down to the hub.


You will need an impact screw driver and a rubber mallet for this part or else you will never get that shit off and probably strip it and then start bitching why why FML!! So just go out and rent it. It will make you live 10000% easier. To use it first fine a screw bit that will properly fit in the screw holes. Then you want to put the bit in the tool and then take the mallet and hit it like your playing wack-a-mole. It should start to spin and then the screws will come loose.



After that is done the rotors should come off. If not hit the rotor with the mallet. Don't hit anywhere else. Just give it a light tap around the rotor.


once that part is finish install your new rotors and put the screws back in.


Then re-bolt the calipers brackets to the car.

Once that is done you should bolt the calipers on the bottom bolt first and make sure that the piston is compressed. After that put grease on the metal clips that hold the bracket pads. That should stop any whining and bitching from the pads. Then you can place the pads in the brackets and it should close right over.

Unloaded


Loaded


Close right over like this:


Then bolt the top bolt in. Then bolt the 2 10mm bolt that hold the brake lines back in place. Check everything to make sure they have the correct torque spec or else you might die.

Then put your wheels back on and check the tq spec again.

They should look something like this when you are done.



Bleeding process:

Will complete later.

Beding process

Will complete later
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Jeff Likes Bagels
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« Reply #1 on: February 24, 2010, 05:46:39 PM »

I wasn't sure where to ask this, but I figured since it involves the front brakes I'll ask here. I'm about to hit 49k miles, and I'm wondering, when should I replace the front brakes? I occasionally hear some squeaking from the brakes, but it's hard to say if it's just normal disc brake squeak or if it's the low-life indicator. All I can say is that my car doesn't break for shit. I plan on replacing both the rotors and pads when the fronts go because it's cheaper to replace the rotors than to get them resurfaced. Thanks.
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« Reply #2 on: February 24, 2010, 06:23:19 PM »

If your car isn't stopping well do them. Use quality parts, and you will be really happy with the results.
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« Reply #3 on: February 24, 2010, 07:40:48 PM »

I plan on going with the Centric C-TEK standard rotors along with Akebono ProACT pads so that I've got Akebono's all around. I should've replaced my rear rotors instead of getting then resurfaced, but I didn't know at the time that it was cheaper to replace them.

Hey Ken, when do you plan on making the bleeding and bedding portion of the DIY? I want to start doing brake jobs by myself instead of taking my car to a shop. I've never done it before, but I am confident if I have a detailed enough tutorial/DIY. That's how I've done all my other mods, lol. If I don't start doing these things by myself, I'll never get the experience, and I'll become dependent on other people to do the stuff for me. I hate being dependent, lol.

The only part that I don't really understand is where you have to push the pistons back in or something.

Thanks.
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sherker55
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« Reply #4 on: February 25, 2010, 11:16:44 PM »

Brakes are alot easier to do than you may think.  Regarding the pistons..they are going to be extended becuase your old pads have thinned out, and your pistons have had to come out of the caliper further to push against them.  when you put new pads on, they are going to be A LOT thicker, and the current piston position isn't going to allow the calipers to fit over them...so you will have to push them back in.  all you need to do this is a C-clamp or some other tool that would be used to squeeze things together...I use quick vices that are for wood working.
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« Reply #5 on: February 25, 2010, 11:23:08 PM »

Alright, thanks. I think it's just one of those things where it'll make sense when I see it for myself. I've never seen a brake caliper taken apart before, lol. I also need to get me an impact screwdriver.
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« Reply #6 on: February 26, 2010, 08:57:35 AM »

Bleeding is a very simple processHere is a quick how to.
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« Reply #7 on: February 26, 2010, 09:07:52 AM »

Quote from: "Jeff"
Alright, thanks. I think it's just one of those things where it'll make sense when I see it for myself. I've never seen a brake caliper taken apart before, lol. I also need to get me an impact screwdriver.

Go to autozone and get you a 'chilton book'. It's money well spent and has helped me out. The brake pages in that book are greasy as hell, so you know i've used them!
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sherker55
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« Reply #8 on: February 26, 2010, 10:54:04 AM »

what do you need an impact driver for?
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« Reply #9 on: February 26, 2010, 10:57:59 AM »

Rotors are held on by two screws. Alot of rust on them. Usually only way to get them off is with an impact screwdriver.
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« Reply #10 on: February 26, 2010, 12:08:16 PM »

You got lucky or anti siezed them the last time they were out.
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sherker55
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« Reply #11 on: February 26, 2010, 12:38:18 PM »

No...I'm strong like BULL
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« Reply #12 on: February 26, 2010, 12:41:48 PM »

Quote from: "sherker55"
No...I'm strong like BULL

Doesn't make a difference the screws aren't. I'm pleanty strong but, they strip very very easily. The best metod is to gather the proper tools.
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« Reply #13 on: February 26, 2010, 07:49:22 PM »

I don't disagree with that, an impact driver would have made it easier, and can be used for a plethura of other jobs.
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« Reply #14 on: February 26, 2010, 09:28:24 PM »

good write up. need to check my front brake, something is not right there
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