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Author Topic: How To: Front Brake Change  (Read 18776 times)
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CrackerTeg
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« Reply #15 on: February 26, 2010, 09:48:37 PM »

Jeremy, Mark, stay the fuck on topic. I cleaned out the posts of you guys going back and forth with each other about winters and calling each other bitches and whatever. Yes, the screws strip easy. Mark, you got lucky you didn't strip them out. Jeremy, PB does work wonders and the impact driver is an essential tool. Ease up guys.
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« Reply #16 on: March 20, 2010, 12:51:47 PM »

I changed my brakes and rotors for the fronts today and i had the haynes manual, but this DYI was more clearer and to the point, took me less then 2hrs for both sides, thnakz...
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Jeff Likes Bagels
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« Reply #17 on: May 19, 2010, 10:24:33 PM »

Wasn't sure where to post this, so I put it here since it pertains to the fronts only.

What kind of mileage have you guys roughly gotten out of your original OEM front pads? I'm currently at 50,xxx miles and they're sucking pretty bad. I'm just trying to see what the norm is.
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« Reply #18 on: May 19, 2010, 11:33:15 PM »

Jeff, I would say you are well past the "norm" for original OEM pads...usually 40k is a good rule of thumb that I try to remember, but it also depends on the replacement that you use.  IMHO you should not wait any longer to change them, and I definately reccommend doing the GS swap.  I can help you with that, and walk you through it, as well as getting you all the parts.  I spent hours searching and researching.  Shoot me a PM if you want help.
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« Reply #19 on: May 20, 2010, 08:43:30 AM »

Quote from: "sherker55"
Jeff, I would say you are well past the "norm" for original OEM pads...usually 40k is a good rule of thumb that I try to remember, but it also depends on the replacement that you use.  IMHO you should not wait any longer to change them, and I definately reccommend doing the GS swap.  I can help you with that, and walk you through it, as well as getting you all the parts.  I spent hours searching and researching.  Shoot me a PM if you want help.


+1 It's def. time to get those changed. Depending on driving style they could last you longer than the average but, if they are starting not to work well it's best to change them. I would highly recommend the GS swap as well it's fairly cheap, and make a major difference in stopping power.
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« Reply #20 on: May 20, 2010, 09:59:17 AM »

Thanks guys. As far as the GS swap goes, I have been PMing with Mark about the pricing and everything that's needed. It looks like if I go with the GS swap and v6 6mt coupe rotors, it'll be about ~$315 for the rotors and pads from Amazon, and the calipers from RockAuto. If I go with the coupe rotor setup alone, it'll only be about $170. Then it'll also be another $25 for some rear rotors, because I want to swap those out as well to be safe (I'm on original rotors).

I really want to get the GS setup, but with college right around the corner, I need to slow down on all the money spending. I'll see what I can do, but, if worst comes to worst, I may only get the coupe rotors.
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« Reply #21 on: May 20, 2010, 11:16:07 AM »

I waited until after my brakes (lack of) didn't save me from a jersey barrier before I did this upgrade. The increased stopping power is well worth the investment. I PM'd you about another possible upgrade I would suggest doing something soon if you don't feel your stopping well. My biggest suggestion is to go with quality brake products no matter what route you take!
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« Reply #22 on: May 21, 2010, 11:11:25 PM »

In regards to bleeding the brakes, do I need to put new brake fluid in, or does it simply involve letting the air out, then pouring any that got out back into the reservoir? Sorry, I'm completely new to brake jobs, and I'm hoping to get everything right the first time. Also, the brake fluid that's in the car right now is pretty new, so I don't think it should be replaced again when doing the GS caliper swap, should it?
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« Reply #23 on: May 22, 2010, 12:30:25 AM »

Quote from: "lavalleemike"
I waited until after my brakes (lack of) didn't save me from a jersey barrier before I did this upgrade. The increased stopping power is well worth the investment. I PM'd you about another possible upgrade I would suggest doing something soon if you don't feel your stopping well. My biggest suggestion is to go with quality brake products no matter what route you take!

+1 bro, wish I had know about this upgrade before my head-on...I started looking for options shortly after, especially after I complained to honda about the brakes being insufficient, and the airbag not deploying...and having them tell me nothing was wrong.
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« Reply #24 on: May 22, 2010, 12:36:11 AM »

Quote from: "Jeff"
In regards to bleeding the brakes, do I need to put new brake fluid in, or does it simply involve letting the air out, then pouring any that got out back into the reservoir? Sorry, I'm completely new to brake jobs, and I'm hoping to get everything right the first time. Also, the brake fluid that's in the car right now is pretty new, so I don't think it should be replaced again when doing the GS caliper swap, should it?

Fill the resivoiur to the top...after you have reconnected all the lines, have someone pump the brakes 3-4 times, and on the 4th time keep pressure on it.  at this time, you loosen the bleed valve and let the fluid/air out.  the person working the brake needs to hollar when the pedal goes almost all the way to the floor, so that you can close the valve before the pedal goes to the floor.  repeat this 3, 4, 5 times till there is significant pressure on the brakes, and no "musshy" feeling left.  you are going to want to refil the resivoiur every other time to make sure it doesn't run dry and let air into the system from there, cause that would suck.
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« Reply #25 on: October 16, 2010, 12:34:59 PM »

Hey guys,

My new Hawk pads are in, and I'm all ready to install them. The only thing is, I need to get the contaminants from the old pad material off the rotors. I was going to take them early monday morning to get them resurfaced, however i read elsewhere online that you can take like 300 grit sandpaper to sand the pad material off. Has anyone tried this, or am I better off just taking them to the shop?

Thanks.
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« Reply #26 on: October 16, 2010, 12:53:50 PM »

Can't you just spray them with brake cleaner?
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« Reply #27 on: April 13, 2011, 04:57:04 PM »

Jeff, how did it go?
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« Reply #28 on: April 13, 2011, 05:11:31 PM »

I ended up just taking them to the shop to get resurfaced. The brakes are a lot more powerful. The only downside is that the hawk pads don't have as much initial grip, so you have to mash harder on the peddle to stop.
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« Reply #29 on: April 13, 2011, 10:08:42 PM »

did you do the GS caliper swap with the coupe brackets and rotors, or just keep everything the same...resurface rotors, new pads?
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