EliteCM.net

Disclaimer: I am not responsible for you if you plan to use this as a guide. You have read and understand that this may involve risks. You are responisble for double check to see if you forgot something in the process that was not covered here in the DIY. I have outline some of the part that I found critical in doing this. *aka part that if you don't do correctly you will die*. If you don't know what the heck you are doing do not attempt this. Take it to a pro. The brake system is the only thing stopping your car from hitting that car in front of you.

Tool:
2 wench
1 torque wench
1 breaker bar
1 rubber mallet
1 Complete socket set ranging from 10mm to 20mm (you don't need all of them just 19mm, 17mm, 14mm, and 10mm)
1 Complete open wench set (or just 19mm)
1 impact screw driver
Wheel lock key
Glove and eye protection
Piston compressor tool or C-clamp
A set of any Brake pads and rotors that you plan on using
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m77/thisaznboi88/1024091257.jpg)
yummy beefy
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m77/thisaznboi88/1109091132.jpg)
Package of grease for pads
2 brake fluid bottle *if you want to do a flush*

Here we go for pad change only:

First loosen the bolts on the rims with the 19mm sockets and wheel lock

Then Jack up the passenger side of the car first

Then you should see your sexy caliper here:
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m77/thisaznboi88/1119091538.jpg)

What you want to do is use the 15mm and remove the bolts on the top of the caliper if you want to only change brakes pad only. Its the top bolt with the rubber boot. First you want to get a breaker bar and loosen it up with a 15mm socket, then switch to a socket wench with the 15mm socket and use a open wench 19mm to hold the nut on the caliper so that it won't move. It is the nut next to the rubber boot.  After that it should flip down and you can take out the old pads

(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m77/thisaznboi88/1119091538a.jpg)

(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m77/thisaznboi88/1119091503.jpg)

After you got the old pad out use the piston compress or c-clamp to put the piston back into place. This is very important since your going to be bitching for the next 20min and be like why won't this shit go in wtf man? After that put in the brake pads.

(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m77/thisaznboi88/1119091515.jpg)

Then bolt everything back up the way it should have been


Here we go for pad change and rotors:

First loosen the bolts on the rims with the 19mm sockets and wheel lock

Then Jack up the passenger side of the car first

Then you should see your sexy caliper here:
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m77/thisaznboi88/1119091538.jpg)

What you want to do is use the 15mm and remove the bolts on the top of the caliper if you want to only change brakes pad only. Its the top bolt with the rubber boot. First you want to get a breaker bar and loosen it up with a 15mm socket, then switch to a socket wench with the 15mm socket and use a open wench 19mm to hold the nut on the caliper so that it won't move. It is the nut next to the rubber boot.  After that it should flip down and you can take out the old pads

(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m77/thisaznboi88/1119091538a.jpg)

(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m77/thisaznboi88/1119091503.jpg)

After you got the old pad out use the piston compress or c-clamp to put the piston back into place. This is very important since your going to be bitching for the next 20min and be like why won't this shit go in wtf man? Also loosen the 2 10mm bolt that hold the brakeline in place and place your calipers somewhere on the car were it will not hang from the brake lines *very important if you don't want to die*

After that you will need to use a 17mm socket to remove the 2 bolt that hold down the caliper brackets to the car. The brackets look something like this: I took the time to paint my new brackets black with VHT caliper paint.
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m77/thisaznboi88/1109091117.jpg)
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m77/thisaznboi88/1111091519.jpg)

After the brackets are remove you should see the rotor and 2 screws that are holding it down to the hub.
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m77/thisaznboi88/1119091507.jpg)

You will need an impact screw driver and a rubber mallet for this part or else you will never get that shit off and probably strip it and then start bitching why why FML!! So just go out and rent it. It will make you live 10000% easier. To use it first fine a screw bit that will properly fit in the screw holes. Then you want to put the bit in the tool and then take the mallet and hit it like your playing wack-a-mole. It should start to spin and then the screws will come loose.

(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m77/thisaznboi88/1119091506.jpg)

After that is done the rotors should come off. If not hit the rotor with the mallet. Don't hit anywhere else. Just give it a light tap around the rotor.
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m77/thisaznboi88/1109091131.jpg)

once that part is finish install your new rotors and put the screws back in.
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m77/thisaznboi88/1109091116.jpg)

Then re-bolt the calipers brackets to the car.

Once that is done you should bolt the calipers on the bottom bolt first and make sure that the piston is compressed. After that put grease on the metal clips that hold the bracket pads. That should stop any whining and bitching from the pads. Then you can place the pads in the brackets and it should close right over.

Unloaded
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m77/thisaznboi88/1109091131a.jpg)

Loaded
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m77/thisaznboi88/1119091515.jpg)

Close right over like this:
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m77/thisaznboi88/1119091538.jpg)

Then bolt the top bolt in. Then bolt the 2 10mm bolt that hold the brake lines back in place. Check everything to make sure they have the correct torque spec or else you might die.

Then put your wheels back on and check the tq spec again.

They should look something like this when you are done.

(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m77/thisaznboi88/1119091754a.jpg)

Bleeding process:

Will complete later.

Beding process

Will complete later

I wasn't sure where to ask this, but I figured since it involves the front brakes I'll ask here. I'm about to hit 49k miles, and I'm wondering, when should I replace the front brakes? I occasionally hear some squeaking from the brakes, but it's hard to say if it's just normal disc brake squeak or if it's the low-life indicator. All I can say is that my car doesn't break for shit. I plan on replacing both the rotors and pads when the fronts go because it's cheaper to replace the rotors than to get them resurfaced. Thanks.

If your car isn't stopping well do them. Use quality parts, and you will be really happy with the results.

I plan on going with the Centric C-TEK standard rotors along with Akebono ProACT pads so that I've got Akebono's all around. I should've replaced my rear rotors instead of getting then resurfaced, but I didn't know at the time that it was cheaper to replace them.

Hey Ken, when do you plan on making the bleeding and bedding portion of the DIY? I want to start doing brake jobs by myself instead of taking my car to a shop. I've never done it before, but I am confident if I have a detailed enough tutorial/DIY. That's how I've done all my other mods, lol. If I don't start doing these things by myself, I'll never get the experience, and I'll become dependent on other people to do the stuff for me. I hate being dependent, lol.

The only part that I don't really understand is where you have to push the pistons back in or something.

Thanks.

Brakes are alot easier to do than you may think.  Regarding the pistons..they are going to be extended becuase your old pads have thinned out, and your pistons have had to come out of the caliper further to push against them.  when you put new pads on, they are going to be A LOT thicker, and the current piston position isn't going to allow the calipers to fit over them...so you will have to push them back in.  all you need to do this is a C-clamp or some other tool that would be used to squeeze things together...I use quick vices that are for wood working.

Alright, thanks. I think it's just one of those things where it'll make sense when I see it for myself. I've never seen a brake caliper taken apart before, lol. I also need to get me an impact screwdriver.

Bleeding is a very simple processHere (http://www.popularmechanics.com/automotive/how_to/4213448.html/) is a quick how to.

Go to autozone and get you a 'chilton book'. It's money well spent and has helped me out. The brake pages in that book are greasy as hell, so you know i've used them!

what do you need an impact driver for?

Rotors are held on by two screws. Alot of rust on them. Usually only way to get them off is with an impact screwdriver.

You got lucky or anti siezed them the last time they were out.

No...I'm strong like BULL

Doesn't make a difference the screws aren't. I'm pleanty strong but, they strip very very easily. The best metod is to gather the proper tools.

I don't disagree with that, an impact driver would have made it easier, and can be used for a plethura of other jobs.

good write up. need to check my front brake, something is not right there

Jeremy, Mark, stay the fuck on topic. I cleaned out the posts of you guys going back and forth with each other about winters and calling each other bitches and whatever. Yes, the screws strip easy. Mark, you got lucky you didn't strip them out. Jeremy, PB does work wonders and the impact driver is an essential tool. Ease up guys.

I changed my brakes and rotors for the fronts today and i had the haynes manual, but this DYI was more clearer and to the point, took me less then 2hrs for both sides, thnakz...

Wasn't sure where to post this, so I put it here since it pertains to the fronts only.

What kind of mileage have you guys roughly gotten out of your original OEM front pads? I'm currently at 50,xxx miles and they're sucking pretty bad. I'm just trying to see what the norm is.

Jeff, I would say you are well past the "norm" for original OEM pads...usually 40k is a good rule of thumb that I try to remember, but it also depends on the replacement that you use.  IMHO you should not wait any longer to change them, and I definately reccommend doing the GS swap.  I can help you with that, and walk you through it, as well as getting you all the parts.  I spent hours searching and researching.  Shoot me a PM if you want help.

+1 It's def. time to get those changed. Depending on driving style they could last you longer than the average but, if they are starting not to work well it's best to change them. I would highly recommend the GS swap as well it's fairly cheap, and make a major difference in stopping power.

Thanks guys. As far as the GS swap goes, I have been PMing with Mark about the pricing and everything that's needed. It looks like if I go with the GS swap and v6 6mt coupe rotors, it'll be about ~$315 for the rotors and pads from Amazon, and the calipers from RockAuto. If I go with the coupe rotor setup alone, it'll only be about $170. Then it'll also be another $25 for some rear rotors, because I want to swap those out as well to be safe (I'm on original rotors).

I really want to get the GS setup, but with college right around the corner, I need to slow down on all the money spending. I'll see what I can do, but, if worst comes to worst, I may only get the coupe rotors.

I waited until after my brakes (lack of) didn't save me from a jersey barrier before I did this upgrade. The increased stopping power is well worth the investment. I PM'd you about another possible upgrade I would suggest doing something soon if you don't feel your stopping well. My biggest suggestion is to go with quality brake products no matter what route you take!

In regards to bleeding the brakes, do I need to put new brake fluid in, or does it simply involve letting the air out, then pouring any that got out back into the reservoir? Sorry, I'm completely new to brake jobs, and I'm hoping to get everything right the first time. Also, the brake fluid that's in the car right now is pretty new, so I don't think it should be replaced again when doing the GS caliper swap, should it?

+1 bro, wish I had know about this upgrade before my head-on...I started looking for options shortly after, especially after I complained to honda about the brakes being insufficient, and the airbag not deploying...and having them tell me nothing was wrong.

Fill the resivoiur to the top...after you have reconnected all the lines, have someone pump the brakes 3-4 times, and on the 4th time keep pressure on it.  at this time, you loosen the bleed valve and let the fluid/air out.  the person working the brake needs to hollar when the pedal goes almost all the way to the floor, so that you can close the valve before the pedal goes to the floor.  repeat this 3, 4, 5 times till there is significant pressure on the brakes, and no "musshy" feeling left.  you are going to want to refil the resivoiur every other time to make sure it doesn't run dry and let air into the system from there, cause that would suck.

Hey guys,

My new Hawk pads are in, and I'm all ready to install them. The only thing is, I need to get the contaminants from the old pad material off the rotors. I was going to take them early monday morning to get them resurfaced, however i read elsewhere online that you can take like 300 grit sandpaper to sand the pad material off. Has anyone tried this, or am I better off just taking them to the shop?

Thanks.

Can't you just spray them with brake cleaner?

Jeff, how did it go?

I ended up just taking them to the shop to get resurfaced. The brakes are a lot more powerful. The only downside is that the hawk pads don't have as much initial grip, so you have to mash harder on the peddle to stop.

did you do the GS caliper swap with the coupe brackets and rotors, or just keep everything the same...resurface rotors, new pads?

I went with the Legend GS calipers and rotors. I decided not to do the v6 6MT brackets and rotors because I was afraid it wouldn't fit due to other things and whatnot. Overall I satisfied with the outcome. However, lately it seems like the braking power has declined a bit. I wonder if there is air in the lines or something.

well bleed them....check the fluid first though, it may just be low if you hadn't topped it off completely after doing the swap.  glad you did it.  it's easy enough, and a great upgrade

I know this is an old post, but I am interested and have a few questions.  First, is there another place I can find similar instructions with the pictures still available?  Is the Acura Legend GS caliper swap still the preferred affordable upgrade?  Would anyone suggest anything different, or  be able to recommend a pretty decent, affordable set of rotors and pads?  I see the word coupe thrown around a lot here, so I am going to assume the rotors are a different size?  For the record I have a 2006 Lx sedan which I am pretty sure has drum brakes in the rear.  I also have those snazzy (ha) snap on honda hubcaps on my stock rusty rims.

A lot of people use the RL calipers (mounting bracket required though).  Beefier than the Legend calipers but more expensive as well.