When do you have to replace the rotor? *new toys are in*

[thisaznboi88]

I have been thinking about changing the brakes since the car is starting to do the shuttlers again like my first car before I swap for ceramic pads. I was thinking about stock rotors + ceramic pads. The thing is I am the 3rd owner of the car so I really don't know the history. I was wondering how can you tell if you have to change rotors? Is there a specify range for the thickness? If so could you let me know? I can use my dad's calibrate to measure the thickness of the rotor.

So just let me know. I was looking at the Akabono pads and its 40 bucks front and 30ish for the rear. I don't want it to turn into a 200-300 buck brake job unless I absolutely have to change it.

So UPS dropped off my rotors and oil filter. I am still waiting for the pads. I hope the rotors will fit. They are freaken heavy.





Sigh... Made in China.... At least they were priced right. 22 + some change for each side. My friend also used his amazon prime account so Free 2day shipping ^^ .

[MyNameIsThien]

Measure the rotors to see where you are at. There is a minimum maching/discard on every rotor. I can get you the discard spec on Tuesday when I go back into work. How many miles are on the car? You will have resurface the rotor since you are getting a shudder/pulsation, or replace it if its under spec.

[thisaznboi88]

Thanks Thien! Umm I have almost 63k on it. From the car fax I know that the rear pad have been replaced once but not the front. And I can see it kinda cutting close to the one bar that will scream like a bitch to tell you that you need to change brakes.

[CYANiDE]

Sorry to thread jack, but seems like it'd fit here. When I go to a stop, like the last few feet before a full stop, it feels as if the brakes catch more rotor on one part of it than the other if that's possible/makes sense.

[MyNameIsThien]

Thanks Thien! Umm I have almost 63k on it. From the car fax I know that the rear pad have been replaced once but not the front. And I can see it kinda cutting close to the one bar that will scream like a bitch to tell you that you need to change brakes.

You more and likely have room to cut since you only have 63k miles.

[MyNameIsThien]

Sorry to thread jack, but seems like it'd fit here. When I go to a stop, like the last few feet before a full stop, it feels as if the brakes catch more rotor on one part of it than the other if that's possible/makes sense.

Check the depth of both the inboard and outboard pad. You might have a stuck guide pin/slide pin. How many miles do you have? Also, when you mean one part more then the other. Do you mean like one side of the pad is grabbing more or actually say the left or the right side is grabbing more. Also, when you brake, does your car pull in a certain direction.

[thisaznboi88]

whoa I was really tripping out earlier when I jumped to your last post. I was like wtf? my brakes need to do what now? lol Thanks man.

[CYANiDE]

Sorry to thread jack, but seems like it'd fit here. When I go to a stop, like the last few feet before a full stop, it feels as if the brakes catch more rotor on one part of it than the other if that's possible/makes sense.

Check the depth of both the inboard and outboard pad. You might have a stuck guide pin/slide pin. How many miles do you have? Also, when you mean one part more then the other. Do you mean like one side of the pad is grabbing more or actually say the left or the right side is grabbing more. Also, when you brake, does your car pull in a certain direction.

Inboard and outboard pad on the rotors? I'm learning all this car stuff little by little and don't really know what to look for. My 06 sedan is approaching 52k, but a lot of city miles.

[MyNameIsThien]

Look at the inboard and outboard brake pad. If the outboard pad is lower then the inboard pad, you have a stuck slide pin/guide pin. If the inboard pad is lower then the outboard pad, you have a stuck caliper. With 52k miles, you are either on your first or second set of brake pads. With a lot of city miles, you are putting more wear and tear on the pads with the constant braking. Check out your brake pads and measure them. Confirm wether you need brakes or not. With 52k miles, you should still have room to resurface the rotors.

[CYANiDE]

Look at the inboard and outboard brake pad. If the outboard pad is lower then the inboard pad, you have a stuck slide pin/guide pin. If the inboard pad is lower then the outboard pad, you have a stuck caliper. With 52k miles, you are either on your first or second set of brake pads. With a lot of city miles, you are putting more wear and tear on the pads with the constant braking. Check out your brake pads and measure them. Confirm wether you need brakes or not. With 52k miles, you should still have room to resurface the rotors.

I purchased the car only 6 months ago at about 47k. Was given new brakes and rotors with the purchase (I asked for them). Maybe the messed it up when they installed 'em? I'll check the sizes and take some pics soon.

[MyNameIsThien]

They might've not lube up the slide pins. If the lube on the slide pins dry up, it will seize that slide pin from sliding back and forth. Thus, causing uneven pad wear.

[thisaznboi88]

TY Thien for answering my questions!!

[Jeff Likes Bagels]

Hey Thien, is there any word on that discard spec? I haven't checked my rotors, but I've only got 46k miles, which leads me to believe that they're probably fine for awhile. I'm just trying to figure out if it'll be cheaper for me to just buy new rotors instead of getting them resurfaced. It's like $90 at a local shop to get an axle (pair of 2) resurfaced. I guess It'd be a little more expensive if I got the Brembo blanks ($55 each from Tirerack). Or I could get the Centric rotors that Ken posted. Either way I have to get new rear pads (They wore out before the fronts?). I'm going to see if that same local shop sells EBC greenstuff pads. I'd do the brake stuff myself, but I don't have the time with school and football to just do these things.

[MyNameIsThien]

I will find out tomorrow. I did not work today due to jury duty. As for the rears wearing out before the fronts, it is a common problem and how newer Hondas brakes are. They use more brake power towards the rear. Centric rotors is an OK brand. We use them from time to time at my shop for rotor replacement. $90 to resurface 2 front rotors is a rip off. For that price, you might as well buy new rotors. Since you only have 46k miles, you more and likely have plenty of room to resurface. Anyone on this board who has my number please remind me to get rotor specs for you guys. I have alzheimers, and I can't remember anything.

[thisaznboi88]

yeah centric are okay. I didn't want to spend 55 on the brembo blanks know they are not made in germany anymore.

Also 90 is a rip off to resurface. My shop asked me 20 to resurface both rotors. My friend used his amazon account and got me the the 2 fronts for ~44 + some change and free 2 day shipping. I still need to get the akebono pads. They are 50 on ebay now. but I am trying to see if I can use my Bing account to save some more. My friend also bought some puralotor pureone filters for me. 2 for 10 bucks. He is also trying to get my redline 5w30 but the cheapest he can get me is 9.50 per bottle. So I think I am going to hold off on that for a while.