What did you do to your Gen7 today?

[Nit3h4wk C0uP3]

Been emailing back and forth with the seller of the Jack on Amazon. Apparently they only take returns 30 days after purchase. Lesson learned, I'll take it to Harbor Freight

[gargantula99]

Been emailing back and forth with the seller of the Jack on Amazon. Apparently they only take returns 30 days after purchase. Lesson learned, I'll take it to Harbor Freight

Word of advice Denny, don't ever buy a tool from harbor freight.  They're cheap for a reason.

BOT....haven't done a damn thing to the accord, besides a good wash.

[Nit3h4wk C0uP3]

I got a return label from the seller, woohoo!

Nothing, I've done nothing with the car today   yet....

[Rich01]

^I've owned stuff from the freight for years and some for a day. I go to the store some returns are not an issue. Sometimes it's hit or miss.


Installed NRG torque damper, Mishimoto low temp thermostat and coolant flush. Also lowered the fan on/off temperatures 185/165.

[timot_one]

Why so low Rich?  My fans don't kick on until 194º.  Most of my track friends run their k swap cars at 200º+ and don't want their temps to be too low because it reduces efficiency.  I realize you have a J and that these are not track cars, but you may want to double check that.  Lower coolant temperatures doesn't always equal better.  You need to make sure you stay in the range that you need to be.

[Rich01]

I know. It was set at 206/186. Our generation Js don't have a header in the traditional sense. It's built into the heads with single exhaust port per head which generates a lot of heat. This has lead to numerous issues over time with this design ie precat failure, IM heat soak etc. Some guys with boost without access to E85 run Water/Meth injection, but i've seen mixed reviews with no true failsafe.

I set the fan temps based on the thermostat rating. It's roughly 20*F lower. I may raise it up a bit if it doesn't help my starting issue which shows symptoms of vapor lock at the fuel rails.

[timot_one]

I would assume that the exhaust port/manifold placement would really only affect the efficiency of the radiator. Your coolant temp sensor should be on the block/heads and that's what's more important to monitor.

So, you think you're getting vapor lock in your fuel system? What does your fuel system consist of now? Remind me again of your starting issues.

Back on topic, I started laying out my fuel system upgrade today. Once it's just a little warmer out, I'll be getting my surge tank mounted up and then I can clear out my trunk to access my fuel pump and get started on my fuel line placement. I've also ordered more parts for supporting engine upgrades. I'm getting an upgraded timing chain crank gear, Radium fuel filter, L19 head studs and the TTS cam tower oil modification. I should also be picking up my newly modified Koyo radiator, upper coolant housing with K-Tuned remote fill neck and my supercharger plenum from my welder tomorrow.

Here's some fuel system/hose fitting porn.

[thisaznboi88]

@ Richie don't you have a modified fuel pressure regulator on the stock system?

I am looking for a place to install a TL LSD... I wonder how hard it would be to DIY?

[timot_one]

Shouldn't be too hard. If you want, I know a guy in Lexington that would be able to do the work of you can bring him your transmission.

[thisaznboi88]

Just looking around for now Tim. I probably want to install it when it is time to do the clutch again. I also found all the acura TL service manual online so I am going to flip through those and see what is exactly involved

[Rich01]

@ Richie don't you have a modified fuel pressure regulator on the stock system?

Yes, an external FPR with a return line was added. The feed line is still stock along with the pump with the in tank FPR removed.

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Just looking around for now Tim. I probably want to install it when it is time to do the clutch again. I also found all the acura TL service manual online so I am going to flip through those and see what is exactly involved

You will need a press to get the bearing in/out

Tim, I'll text you.

[Nit3h4wk C0uP3]

OK so my friend Ron worked his magic and tightened a bunch of things on the jack and now it's fine. Lol


Ordered brackets from fat four customs.

[thisaznboi88]

blew my radar detector... going to cost me 150 bucks...

[ikethegreat]

Look into a Uniden LRD950.  I got mine for $170.  Just as good as the Escorts and Valentines detectors but much cheaper.  Even has red light and speed camera databases, which were updated in December.  I did loads of research on http://rdforum.org/ when my Escort 8500 died a couple months ago.  It blows the popular brands out of the water price wise and it stays on par with the big dogs in all the field tests. 

[thisaznboi88]

I rather have the redline because it can't be detected by cop in state like VA and city like DC.

Also I almost died today. The crv rear SS lines blew out. Looks like it was rubbing the rear axles for a while and it decided to give up today.