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CNY240
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« Reply #15 on: February 09, 2011, 06:15:22 PM »

im going to tuse the T connectors and thats how you hook rcas up since i ahve a stock h/u. if im not mistaken. its goin to run from pos neg on speaker onto the converter  Smiley
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« Reply #16 on: February 09, 2011, 06:16:00 PM »

i really would enjoy some visuals of people with manual accords of where inside  
i know timot will be showing me but just want to see usually better than explain  Porn!
« Last Edit: February 09, 2011, 06:19:32 PM by CNY240 » Logged
Jeff Likes Bagels
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« Reply #17 on: February 09, 2011, 06:37:21 PM »

T connectors
Uh oh, you better put on your rape helmet, because Tim is going to get you! Tongue
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« Reply #18 on: February 09, 2011, 09:13:31 PM »

T connectors are garbage, and are only going to cause you problems down the road!
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CNY240
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« Reply #19 on: February 09, 2011, 09:47:01 PM »

well there are only so many ways to connect 2 wires haha umm the only other way which i did on my first system was unclip the harness where it connects to the speaker and stuff the wires in there... i mean now with my new job i can have any type of electrical connector their is so i can get the little prongs and make good ending and coonect it liek that but i thought that or splicing or new head unit are my options? please correct me
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« Reply #20 on: February 09, 2011, 11:00:35 PM »

well there are only so many ways to connect 2 wires haha umm the only other way which i did on my first system was unclip the harness where it connects to the speaker and stuff the wires in there... i mean now with my new job i can have any type of electrical connector their is so i can get the little prongs and make good ending and coonect it liek that but i thought that or splicing or new head unit are my options? please correct me


Hey... you should make a profile so we can get to know you and your ride! Im from the NY area, maybe I seen your ride around.

Check out this link  ---> MAKE A PROFILE HERE 
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« Reply #21 on: February 10, 2011, 12:33:09 AM »

i ran mine through a grommet that is located to the right of the gas pedal

Really?  I'd like to see that.  I wasn't aware there was a grommet on the other side of the gas pedal.  The grommet I used is to the left of the gas pedal, just like Z said.


well there are only so many ways to connect 2 wires

I'm going to put the "asshole" hat on and say there are only 2 ways to connect wires.  The correct way and the wrong way.  There are only 2 correct ways to connect 2 wires.  The MECP approved method is to use a crimping connector using a ratcheting crimper to make sure you use the appropriate amount of pressure on the crimp.  The other way is to solder the wires and use heat shrink tubing.  Soldering is not a MECP approved method because it's effectiveness and reliability depends on the soldering skills of the installer.  Any other way is the WRONG way to connect 2 wires.  I guaranfuckingtee that it will fail and cause problems using t-taps.
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Tim
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« Reply #22 on: February 10, 2011, 05:07:45 AM »

I do infact have a manual acoord.... fml.... but  any quick pictures would help also. as for RCA's im splicing into the rear speakers with one of the line out converters for my RCA's so interferance shouldnt be an issuse just need the aid on  the power wire thats my only hold up
CNY, just like Billy said, its that plastic grommit to the left of the brake pedal. If you have a manual, you can't use that hole. As for the year and model, it doesn't matter. The firewall is the same for all 7th gen Accords. BTW, I'm Z.
so where should the wire be going  Z  now that you ahve shot down that idea  Huh?

Well, now that I have a solid internet connection and I did happen to take pictures of where I ran my power cable before I left, here you go:
Interior:

Under hood:


As for your t-tap idea, Tim already nailed the shit out of that nail on the head. No need for me to come down on it.
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« Reply #23 on: February 10, 2011, 08:34:33 PM »

Z, when you get back, make sure you get a rubber grommet in that hole by your proportioning valve.  Over time, the wire will rub against the edge of the hole and wear away the insulation until something very bad happens and your car is on fire.  When I ran my power wire through, I used a short piece of hose to protect the wire from damage.
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Tim
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« Reply #24 on: February 10, 2011, 09:10:02 PM »

I learned this the hard way in my younger days.. No fire but, I had a pretty good spark show, and some blown fuses.
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« Reply #25 on: February 11, 2011, 05:49:00 AM »

I have every intention of doing just that. Its was a quick job and I didn't have the time to correct it. Good thing I'm going to have plenty of vacation time when I get back.
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CNY240
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« Reply #26 on: February 12, 2011, 09:06:37 PM »

Nice pictures and    that helps alot timot!!! and i wasnt trying to be d bag about saying that was the only way i know how lol cracker ahha but thanks for  that lol sounds good if it ever stops snowing in utica, ny i would love to try and wire my car now haha  thanks alot guys!!  Grin
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CNY240
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« Reply #27 on: February 12, 2011, 09:07:34 PM »

@timot = you just ran it under the carpet after that ?
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« Reply #28 on: February 12, 2011, 10:37:32 PM »

From the grommet, I ran it under the carpet over to the driver's side kick panel, then under the kick panel and down under the plastic trim down the driver's side of the car.  I wish I had more time or was going a different route when I move to Ohio, then I'd be able to help you out.
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Tim
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« Reply #29 on: February 13, 2011, 04:07:12 PM »

Believe me, I can tell you all about wires tearing open due to contact with metal surfaces and causing problems lol.

Tim, I remember that when we ran my power wire through the firewall, the hole wasn't big enough to add any rubber for protection.  Should I be worried about this, or was it snug enough that you don't expect it to move around and tear open?
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