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Author Topic: How To: Rear Disc Brake Pad  (Read 9259 times)
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MyNameIsThien
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« on: February 28, 2010, 12:49:46 PM »

Here will be a DIY on how to change out your rear brake pads. This is for rear disc owners.

::ADMIN EDIT::
Quote from: "clapton924"
I came across this guy while learning how to change my brakes. Really helped me visualize things before I got to the car.

Video 1
Video 2
Video 3



Tools:

12mm wrench or 12mm socket
14mm wrench or 14mm socket
17mm wrench
impact screwdriver
piston depresser tool
1/2 or 3/8 ratchet
shop rags
silicone brake lube
hammer (both metal and rubber)
philips screwdriver
socket extension
pry bar

1: Take off your rear wheels and identify your braking system. Proceed to use your impact screwdriver to take off the rotor hold down screws. Use the hammer and hit the impact screwdriver to knock the screws loose






2: Now, take off your caliper bolts. Use your 12mm wrench or 12mm socket/ratchet combo to take off the caliper bolts. This is where you need a 17mm wrench. You will need the 17mm wrench to hold the caliper guide pin.







3: Pull or pry the caliper out of the way. The caliper does have an integrated e-brake. So, becareful when removing.




4: Proceed to now take off the pad bracket (saddle) by using a 14mm wrench or 14mm socket/ratchet combo.





5: Remove rotor, if rotor is stuck on the hub use a rubber mallet to knock it off and proceed to depress the caliper piston. You will need a special tool to depress the piston, or you can do it the caveman way by using pliers and turn and pushing at the same time. Or you can buy the small rear piston square tool at Sears for like $5. On the rear piston, make sure you line up the piston the right way. The rear piston needs to be in a certain direction. The pad has a notch on it to where the piston guides itself on.








6: Put on new rotor or resurfaced on back on. Use your philip screwdriver and screw the hold down screws back on.




7: Before putting the pad bracket back on, remove the guide pins and remove the old lube from the pins. Now add a thin layer of silicone lube throughout the pin and put back in the pad bracket.






8: Install pad bracket back on and put the brake pads on the bracket.



9: Install caliper back on and bolt it down. This is your finish project.



Repeat for other side. I hope this helps anyone out with doing their rear brakes.
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« Reply #1 on: February 28, 2010, 02:46:45 PM »

Great write up as always!
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fabulous010
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« Reply #2 on: March 06, 2010, 08:55:02 AM »

thien you are the man. great write up as always. im sure i will be using this soon as in today. my rear passenger side brake keeps heating up. i dont know if things need to be lubed up or its just not sitting right, causing the brakes to always make too much contact.
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« Reply #3 on: March 13, 2010, 12:48:16 PM »

TY Thien! I'm about to do this once the weather clears up.
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« Reply #4 on: May 07, 2010, 08:14:47 AM »

Do the rotor tie down screws have to be re-installed?
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NWINNIE34
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« Reply #5 on: May 07, 2010, 08:53:24 AM »

i know this goes against the DIY write up....which is sweet by the way

but do you really have to take off the whole rotor just to swap out pads and re-lube your slide pins ?
Im trynig to do this tonight on my TSX....wasnt planning on taking the rotor off.... or are you recommending i get rotor resurfaced before installing new pads ?
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« Reply #6 on: May 07, 2010, 10:09:52 PM »

Quote from: "Accord1234"
Do the rotor tie down screws have to be re-installed?

No, it does not have to be re-installed. They are there to to just hold it down while you put the caliper and bracket back on.

Quote from: "NWINNIE34"
i know this goes against the DIY write up....which is sweet by the way

but do you really have to take off the whole rotor just to swap out pads and re-lube your slide pins ?
Im trynig to do this tonight on my TSX....wasnt planning on taking the rotor off.... or are you recommending i get rotor resurfaced before installing new pads ?

No, you don't have to take off the rotors, but I highly suggest that you have the rotors resurfaced or replaced. DO NOT PAD SLAP!!! Doing so will cause thickness variation on the rotors down the road. They will warp, and it will cause a brake pulsation. The pulsation you will feel will be in the brake pedal, driver seat, and or floor board during braking.
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Accord1234
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« Reply #7 on: May 10, 2010, 06:35:58 PM »

Ok good. cause it was so difficult to remove those little screws and the head of them are so stripped I don't think I could get them back. As far as that pad slap Thien is right. You take new pads on old rotors and shit just gets worse every time you brake. Starts vibrating in the pedal, to the seat, soon you feel like you have no control over the car at high spped brakes. I'm changing my brakes early just cause I want new rotors and know they are to far gone to re surface.
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ibcnunv
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« Reply #8 on: May 11, 2010, 01:15:50 PM »

Great write up, you make me feel better about doing my own work... thanks...
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« Reply #9 on: May 11, 2010, 07:04:54 PM »

Behold the power of the cube.... worked great

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« Reply #10 on: June 19, 2010, 07:47:24 AM »

I've added the video's that Greg posted in another thread so we can keep all the information in one place.
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« Reply #11 on: August 24, 2010, 01:11:24 AM »

can this DIY be used for changing front brake pads too?
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MyNameIsThien
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« Reply #12 on: August 24, 2010, 01:31:52 AM »

can this DIY be used for changing front brake pads too?


Front DIY already exist.

http://elitecm.net/forums/index.php?topic=2173.0
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