SECM Squad

[exelr8]

ass lol my trip to atl to kick it with matt and jamal(seth you gotta meet jamal and try fudruckers haha) got cancelled due to work... Working for the City blows man ass

[seththekorean]

TWM makes an ITB setup that's a direct fit for the K-series.
As for tuning, you'd need to run an N-Alpha setup for the ITB's. K-Pro or AEM's EMS will be REQUIRED.
That's just if it were a good idea, which it isn't. Being an Accord, it's more likely a daily driver or family mover than a race car. ITB's aren't for daily drivers, and they CERTAINLY aren't for family cars. They are for race cars. They don't like low idles, and they don't like to work over a commuter-friendly rev range. They can be tuned and tuned and tuned, once for each season, and they'll still be a bitch. Not to say you CAN'T, but you definitely SHOULDN'T. Especially without a fully built engine to match.
I'm not trying to shoot you down, as that's not how I do business. To put it into perspective, I have built several high-horsepower N/A k-series motors, and not one of the street cars runs ITB's. ONE of the racers does, and even then, realizes only a few HP more than the cars running ported OEM intake manifolds, and in a much narrower (read 7k RPM's and up) power band, with fully forged internals and supporting mods.
Also, your Accord has electronic throttle, and getting rid of that would ALSO require aftermarket engine management. Talk to Cham (cstyleaccord on here) about a jumper harness for K-Pro if you want to continue this route.
Anywho, any more information you need is always available on here or in my brain- just ask  Cheers- Mark W.

wow. tore me down haha.
whatever, he goes on to say RBC IM on a k24a4 engine with a bored TB and CAi would yield better power numbers.
....

Ahh... i cant wait to prove some wrong. hahaha

[exelr8]

wait you should not be a dbw car???

[seththekorean]

huh?
haha
anyways... matt and i had been talking about building our weekend warriors and whatever.
check this Post. Go threw the WHOLE THING because the OP doesnt really have updates. but here are some teaser pics. WHOLE THING remember.
http://www.k-series.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14063
electronic exhaust cutoff to run straight headers!!!!:

54mm ITB on k20 head k24 block stroked to 2.6L. :

[seththekorean]

Oh and above compression was eventually moved from like the orig 14 something to liek 15:1 !!!!!!!!!!!!!!Jesus christoo.
haha.

ahh.. i want money. haha dont we all?
suspension coming soon though!!!!!!!!!!!

[rocketstarter]

ITB's aren't that bad and sound amazing but power yields aren't over the top unless you're built goin towards 9k.

camber arms are the correct ones. why do you think they're rubber?

Sorry to hear neither one of you will make it before the 17th.

[exelr8]

yeah but i may take the 17th off to have a 3 day weekend and just head down about lunch time that day

[slipkord]

What up guys! Man did we have some storms come thru last night. Hail and flooding, it was BAD. I'm about to go check my car for hail damage since the suns out now, I dont think I have any since it was only pea size. Anyways just stoppin by to say hey...Peace


Jeremy

[exelr8]

Glad you made it over Jeremy

[exelr8]

Glad you made it over Jeremy... Hope you do not have any hail damage

[slipkord]

Glad you made it over Jeremy... Hope you do not have any hail damage

Thanks mike, no hail damage on either cars, I need to put them in the garage next time! Lol

[seththekorean]

gglad to see another SECM member.
hey matt, i know its a noob question but what allows a higher redline. and i guess that would require a new tach.

[exelr8]

I know what you mean man I have been working to clean out my garage so we can park 2 of our cars in there(one of which will be the CM)

ANd yeah i know seth we are finally coming back together as a squad haha instead of just 3 lonesome postwhor3's

[rocketstarter]

You'll need an Hondata or AEM/FIC as far as I know. I'm pretty sure our rev-limiter is set electronically [ECU]. However that is something I gotta look into.

As far as for the shifter assembly goes. If we cut the shift lever about 2 inches we'll reduce your shift throw by apx 40% [I'll take measurements and do the math my next day off]. The lever doesn't need to be reathreaded if you get a shift knob that uses universal fittings with screws for fastening like one of these

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NRG-SK-1 ... .m20.l1116

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NRG-Shif ... .m20.l1116

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NRG-Shif ... 240%3A1318

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NRG-Shif ... 240%3A1318

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NRG-Shif ... 240%3A1318

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NRG-Shif ... 240%3A1318

then you can get one of these shift boots for hte low [$10-$15] and we'll paint te metal piece whatever color you want. It's the exact same boot that I have, mine for some reason just has the mugen logo printed on it, don't really know why but I'll trade you if you get one with red or black stitching  ^^

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-SHIF ... 240%3A1318

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MT-shift ... 240%3A1318

lemme know what you think and don't order anything before I verify fitment cause this was just a quick search at 330am

WELCOME BACK JEREMY!

good to hear you and your family made it safe through the storm

EDIT

you're #8 btw, member list an most info I'll try to keep in the first post

[slipkord]

Thanks for the welcome back guys!



I just noticed that since I park near 4 shipyards that I'm getting overspray pretty bad. So I purchased Meguiars clay bar kit yesterday and bar'd the hood and fenders (was getting dark so will finish entire car today). Man what a diff it makes!! After I waxed her it really brings out the shine. I was impressed, we'll see how the rest of the car goes, I'll post pics.  


Jeremy