Help diagnosing engine noise - problem solved?

[Jeff Likes Bagels]

Thanks for all the help. I really appreciate it. This makes me feel a lot better now that I don't have to worry about my auto tensioner going bad (if it isn't bad already). So, if anyone else seems to be running into these problems where you get that weird noise coming from your pulleys like in the OP, it'd be advisable to switch to the correct size belt.

Unorthodox Racing pulleys: 70" belt
     Gates part #: K070694
Ralco RZ pulleys: 70.25" belt
     Goodyear Gatorback part #: 4070695

On a slightly related note, I do remember there being something about Honda saying that it's normal to hear a sort of knocking noise from the engine, due to the fact that there's some kind of internal dampener or something along the lines of that. Is there any truth to that?

[striktlyaccord]

I actually said that the UR pulleys are smaller than Ralco.

Oh yeh, my bad, I had it backwards.

I can't really comment on the knocking noise that you mentioned, although I don't think any knocking noise is normal per se.  Maybe someone else can chime in.

[Jeff Likes Bagels]

Well, I'd say it's more of a ticking noise. But that's a whole other thread. I was just curious.

[Icebox]

Thanks for all the help. I really appreciate it. This makes me feel a lot better now that I don't have to worry about my auto tensioner going bad (if it isn't bad already). So, if anyone else seems to be running into these problems where you get that weird noise coming from your pulleys like in the OP, it'd be advisable to switch to the correct size belt.

Unorthodox Racing pulleys: 70" belt
     Gates part #: K070694
Ralco RZ pulleys: 70.25" belt
     Goodyear Gatorback part #: 4070695

On a slightly related note, I do remember there being something about Honda saying that it's normal to hear a sort of knocking noise from the engine, due to the fact that there's some kind of internal dampener or something along the lines of that. Is there any truth to that?

hondas have self adjusting valves but overtime they engines dop develope valve knock, every honda i have ever owned has done this after some time. on another note i have the ur underdrive pulleys and i have been running the stock belt since day one. i have now had the pulleys for almost two years and approximatley 25,000 miles.

[Jeff Likes Bagels]

Well, the noise is starting to come back, even with the correct size Gatorback belt, which leads me to believe the auto tensioner pulley is shot. It doesn't make any sense because the last time I checked the pulley, it spun perfectly fine. I am going to check it again sometime, and spray some more WD-40 on it. If I do end up needing to replace it, is it better to replace just the pulley, or to replace the whole auto tensioner assembly?

[MyNameIsThien]

I would replace the whole auto tensioner. A bearing inside the tensioner itself could be shot.

[striktlyaccord]

Try some silicone spray lubricant on it, not WD-40.

[Jeff Likes Bagels]

Alright, I sprayed some lube on it the other day, and the sound sorta went away, then later came back, but when I went to go see today if it's still making the noise, it's now gone. I took the belt off the pulley so I could spin it to feel how it is, it spun pretty freely, but I did notice one thing. The pulley itself is a little wobbly, like it's loose or something. Should it be like that, or could that be a part of my problem?

[MyNameIsThien]

That is part of your problem. The bearing on that pulley was worn out causing it to wobble. Time to replace it.

[Jeff Likes Bagels]

Thanks Thien. How hard is it to replace? Just from looking at it, it looks like the power steering pulley assembly is bolted onto the tensioner, and it looks like it's only a couple of bolts. Is it just a take out, throw in, procedure?

I got the price for the tensioner at Bernardi Honda for $67.44 shipped, but I'm going to see how much it costs locally at one of my dealerships. Maybe I can check k20a.org too.

Once I replace the tensioner, I shouldn't have this problem again since I now have the correct size belt, right?

[MyNameIsThien]

The tensioner isn't that hard to take off. There is only 2 bolts holding it down, and it is seperate from the P/S pump. The new tensioner should fix all your problems. Most tensioners are a pull out put back in job. Check out Hondapartsunlimted.com. They have a tensioner for $52.75. I'm not to sure on shipping, but it doesn't hurt to check it out.

http://www.hondapartsunlimited.com/inde ... ion=ENGINE MOUNTING BRACKET (L4)

[Jeff Likes Bagels]

What I meant was the same bolts are used to hold both the auto tensioner and the P/S pump. I can see the two bolts too, one on the top of the tensioner, and one towards the front of the car, behind the P/S pulley. Am I correct on these descriptions?

[MyNameIsThien]

I'm not to sure. I don't have a K24. Whenever I see one again at work, I will check it out and let you know if its connected to the P/S pump. I don't think it is though. Most tensioners aren't connected to anything else besides to the motor.

[Jeff Likes Bagels]

Alright thanks. If you want, I could take some pics of what I was talking about.

Also, I found someone on k20a selling one for $20 shipped. Only downside is that it has oxidation from "sitting in a damp basement". He said it still works though, and has 30k miles on it. Not sure if I want to get it because of the rust though. It wouldn't look so hot in my engine bay, lol. Unless there is some awesome way to remove the rust easy.  

[MyNameIsThien]

I would pass on that.