What did you do to your Gen7 today?

[CrackerTeg]

Quit your crying Mark. You're in SoCal.

[thisaznboi88]

I need to wash my car too. It has salt up its ass.

[alpha]

Quit your crying Mark. You're in SoCal.

It actually rained tonight while I was at a basketball game.

[timot_one]

Quit your crying Mark. You're in SoCal.

It actually rained tonight while I was at a basketball game.

[fatbastard]

took out the front passenger seat. 57 lbs out!

[CrackerTeg]

Cleaned and oiled my air filter. Damn thing was long overdue.

[DreaminAccord]

#1. Went to do the rear tab relocation but determined that it isn't the problem, as much as, the corner where the fender/bumper meet - it was actually tore up quite a bit. I trimmed a little more off of the rear bumper lip and heated/pounded the rear tab up.

Don't mind all the salt/crud - 3 more inches is on its way so I figured why even bother washing her...for now


#2. Swapped the 20mm H&R TRAK+ to the rear and the 25mm up front. The front was rubbing like crazy and for some reason, developed a shake in the steering wheel. So I removed the 25mm and am now just running the 20mm in the rear. Not as flush as I'd like it to be, but no more rubbing or shaking! So I'll take it for now.
#3. Stopped at Honda and picked up/swapped out new 3rd & 4th gear trans pressure switches. Let me just say, for only having 34k miles on the car, I definitely noticed a difference, even still. At 65mph before I'd be at 2,000 RPM and about 2,200 RPM at 70mph. I'm now at 1700-1800 RPM at 65mph and 2,000 at 70mph Having done a 3x D&F at 25k, she is shifting extraordinarily smooth now!

[fatbastard]

^im kinda surprised those are made in China now...

[CrackerTeg]

I'm not.

[Milan]

Had my lovely wife pick up the parts I ordered yesterday from the dealer and started filling the LCA compliance bushings.

[DreaminAccord]

I'm not.

+1. Nickels holdin' up a dollar 

@ Milan: Very nice! You got yaself a good woman there haha Can't wait to hear the update about how much you love your entire new system (my gawd man, I don't even wanna ask what the bill was)

[Milan]

@ Milan: Very nice! You got yaself a good woman there haha Can't wait to hear the update about how much you love your entire new system (my gawd man, I don't even wanna ask what the bill was)

$198.79 for about 28 parts.  Not too bad if you ask me.  That includes all new inner and outer tie rods, new hardware, bellows, clips, both LCA bushings, and new bolt for the rear bushing in case we have to cut it out.  Just the tie 4 rods were $126.  The compliance bushings were fairly inexpensive at $9.08 and $8.25 a piece. 

[timot_one]

@ Milan: Very nice! You got yaself a good woman there haha Can't wait to hear the update about how much you love your entire new system (my gawd man, I don't even wanna ask what the bill was)

Try replacing all nuts and bolts on your motor, front suspension, and sub frame.  Those little fuckers add up.

[CrackerTeg]

Ordered a new wheel to replace my one bent one. $170 for a new wheel vs. possibly paying $120 ish for a repair ain't bad. Besides, repair shops aren't calling me back so they can go pound sand.

[Mike]

@ Milan: Very nice! You got yaself a good woman there haha Can't wait to hear the update about how much you love your entire new system (my gawd man, I don't even wanna ask what the bill was)

$198.79 for about 28 parts.  Not too bad if you ask me.  That includes all new inner and outer tie rods, new hardware, bellows, clips, both LCA bushings, and new bolt for the rear bushing in case we have to cut it out.  Just the tie 4 rods were $126.  The compliance bushings were fairly inexpensive at $9.08 and $8.25 a piece. 

Why go with OEM tie rods? I have to replace mine I'm asking because I've been told units that can be greased last longer?