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Author Topic: Car went crazy.. ABS-Battery-break lights are on..  (Read 5631 times)
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k24low20z
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« on: March 28, 2009, 12:39:26 PM »

ok, so i get my car from the shop from getting my front bumper painted.. as im parking my car i noticed the battery-ABS- Break light symbols were staying on when the car was running... i also try the cruise control button and it would not light up on the dash how it usually does... so i get it check out and im getting these codes..

p0340, p0498, p0135, p0141

i dont know what to do... someone please help!
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« Reply #1 on: March 28, 2009, 12:56:44 PM »

I've seen that happen after the battery has been jumped because it's low. Maybe that's the problem...
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« Reply #2 on: March 29, 2009, 09:35:03 AM »

Quote from: "Abailey4"
I've seen that happen after the battery has been jumped because it's low. Maybe that's the problem...

thanks man....i just noticed the alternator is bad..i took off the negative terminal and as soon as i take it off the car shuts off..i also noticed my windows having a hard time going up and some lights were not coming on..
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« Reply #3 on: March 29, 2009, 10:16:22 AM »

At least you figured out the problem. I didn't chime in because I had no clue. Now I know for when it happens to me, or it happens to someone else here.
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« Reply #4 on: March 29, 2009, 08:25:56 PM »

Just so you know, we have a thread for CEL codes.  You can find it here.  Check Engine Light Codes Discussion

P0340: Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor, no signal
P0498: Evaporate Emissions (EVAP) canister vent shut valve circuit, low voltage
P0135: Upstream oxygen sensor, heater circuit malfunction
P0141: Downstream oxygen sensor, heater circuit malfunction

Quote from: "k24low20z"
thanks man....i just noticed the alternator is bad..i took off the negative terminal and as soon as i take it off the car shuts off..i also noticed my windows having a hard time going up and some lights were not coming on..


Wait, how did you notice the alternator was "bad"?  Unless you have it tested, there aren't any obvious tell tale signs that it's not operating to capacity to the untrained eye unless it's on fire.  If you disconnect the negative battery terminal, you have disconnected the electrical system in addition to the battery.  My guess is that the shop your car was in, never bothered to put your car on a battery tender or disconnected your battery while they were working on your car and just let the battery deep cycle (drain).  Derrick is right.  Let your battery charge to full capacity and clear the codes.  If that doesn't work, have your battery load tested and then have your alternator tested.
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« Reply #5 on: March 30, 2009, 08:53:06 AM »

Taking the terminal off while the car is running is an old school way to test an alternator however i'm not sure if it works on the 7th gen. I know it worked on some of the older domestics I've owned however i'm not sure how the electrical system in the 7th gens works.
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« Reply #6 on: March 30, 2009, 10:56:19 AM »

Quote from: "timot_one"
Just so you know, we have a thread for CEL codes.  You can find it here.  Check Engine Light Codes Discussion

P0340: Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor, no signal
P0498: Evaporate Emissions (EVAP) canister vent shut valve circuit, low voltage
P0135: Upstream oxygen sensor, heater circuit malfunction
P0141: Downstream oxygen sensor, heater circuit malfunction

Quote from: "k24low20z"
thanks man....i just noticed the alternator is bad..i took off the negative terminal and as soon as i take it off the car shuts off..i also noticed my windows having a hard time going up and some lights were not coming on..


Wait, how did you notice the alternator was "bad"?  Unless you have it tested, there aren't any obvious tell tale signs that it's not operating to capacity to the untrained eye unless it's on fire.  If you disconnect the negative battery terminal, you have disconnected the electrical system in addition to the battery.  My guess is that the shop your car was in, never bothered to put your car on a battery tender or disconnected your battery while they were working on your car and just let the battery deep cycle (drain).  Derrick is right.  Let your battery charge to full capacity and clear the codes.  If that doesn't work, have your battery load tested and then have your alternator tested.


thanks Tim, i went thru that thread and it didnt have the codes i was looking for....

what i did was get on the phone with my mech and he told me to check all the connections to the alternator and bettery to make sure there was anything not making contact.. i did it and everything looked perfect. so he tell me my next option was to disconect the negative terminal from the battery while the car was running, the car should stay running on the alternator if it shuts off it means that the alternator is not recharging the battery.

i did what derrick said, to fully charge the battery and clear the codes.... as soon as i clear the codes the pop up right back right away.. the battery holds the charge but the car drains it again when i drive for a long time..also the battery, ABS, BREAK lights are not going away with a fully charged battery..
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« Reply #7 on: March 30, 2009, 11:18:38 AM »

Dam Lex hope your car gets back on track kid.
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k24low20z
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« Reply #8 on: March 30, 2009, 11:23:32 AM »

Quote from: "ROLO"
Dam Lex hope your car gets back on track kid.

it will...i got the alternator on the way, it should be here and on the car by thursday...
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« Reply #9 on: March 30, 2009, 11:28:57 AM »

Quote from: "k24low20z"
Quote from: "ROLO"
Dam Lex hope your car gets back on track kid.

it will...i got the alternator on the way, it should be here and on the car by thursday...

That's what's up kid... my bad I couldn't call you on Saturday... I went to Hialeah 2 do the graff wall for my wife anniversary... and it was my niece B day.... I get paid this Friday.. if you want I'll scoop you up sat morning to get the paint... LMK when your car is up and running...
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« Reply #10 on: March 30, 2009, 04:22:09 PM »

Quote from: "lavalleemike"
Taking the terminal off while the car is running is an old school way to test an alternator however i'm not sure if it works on the 7th gen. I know it worked on some of the older domestics I've owned however i'm not sure how the electrical system in the 7th gens works.

It doesn't work with our cars.  If you have one of your OEM grounds disconnected, your car will not run.

Alex, did you have your alternator tested?  How many times have you deep cycled your battery?  You may need a new battery too now that you've discharged it.  Once a battery has been deep cycled, it will never get back to full capacity.  Have your battery load tested.
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« Reply #11 on: March 31, 2009, 08:11:42 AM »

Tim is on the money with his advice!!!!  Our cars will turn off if the negative is taken off.   Trust me; LOL I had the only problems because a loose negative cable.
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« Reply #12 on: April 04, 2009, 12:35:40 PM »

I don't know why your cars turn off when you disconnect the negative cable...it used to be widespread practice to change a battery while the vehicle was running until we were told it wasn't good for the vehicle.

I'm not sure if I'm not understanding something or what..but the job of the battery is to start the car and run the accessories when the engine is not running...the alternator powers the car while the engine is running and charges the battery.  You can start one of our cars, disconnect and remove the battery, and drive the car while the battery is out...

If the alternator is not running properly, the battery light will come on, and the vehicle will be running soley from battery power...which will not last long.  I am almost positive that you can test our cars in the same way as the older cars...removing the negative battery terminal on a car where the alternator is not functioning should shut the vehicle down since you interrupt the circuit.
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« Reply #13 on: April 04, 2009, 09:47:54 PM »

Only one way to find out.  Time for someone with a healthy alternator to give it a try.
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