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Author Topic: Camber Kits - Do they come with one or two arms per side?  (Read 6900 times)
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CYANiDE
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« on: April 26, 2012, 09:52:53 PM »

Trying to order my camber kits for the rear since I know the front are just two ball joints that have to be pressed in.

Do all the camber kits come with a camber and toe arm or just camber? I've looked at SPC and Ingalls and I'm not sure. Everything says "pair" not sure if that means two per side, or just two, one per side.
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Eric.
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« Reply #1 on: April 26, 2012, 10:37:07 PM »

Depends on what company set you get them from i know my wicked tunning rear camber came 1 perside in a set i think  ingalls comes 2 perside if am correct
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« Reply #2 on: April 26, 2012, 10:44:28 PM »

Ingalls is a 2 piece per side but replaces the toe adjustment arm and lower control arm. Others like SPC, Eibach, and so on replaces only the upper control arm.

Front camber kit you have 2 options. You can go with the Ingalls that replaces only the upper ball joint, or you can go with Skunk2, Megan Racing, or Spoon Sports that replaces the whole arm with ball joint.
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CYANiDE
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« Reply #3 on: April 26, 2012, 11:05:38 PM »

Looks like I'm going with Ingalls for rear. Cheapest I've found is $180 shipped for both sides.

SPOON is way out of my budget. I've been looking at the SPC ball joint, would that be an alright replacement since the Skunk2 and Megan arms are kind of expensive. I'd just rent a ball joint pressing tool or have a shop do it if I go that route.
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Eric.
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« Reply #4 on: April 26, 2012, 11:16:48 PM »

Forewarned with the Ingalls ball joint camber kit, they are kind of big and depending on how low you are, the ball joint tends to smack against the body causing an annoying clunk noise going over bumps. For the rear Ingalls camber kit, becareful with the install. A lot of us have had problems with the install due to having seized bolts. What tends to happen is the metal sleeve inside the bushing tends to seize itself to the bolt. Thus causing a major pain in the ass to take out. Some us got lucky with PB blaster. While others had to resort to using a torch or a cutoff tool to get those bolts off.
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CYANiDE
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« Reply #5 on: April 26, 2012, 11:24:06 PM »

Forewarned with the Ingalls ball joint camber kit, they are kind of big and depending on how low you are, the ball joint tends to smack against the body causing an annoying clunk noise going over bumps. For the rear Ingalls camber kit, becareful with the install. A lot of us have had problems with the install due to having seized bolts. What tends to happen is the metal sleeve inside the bushing tends to seize itself to the bolt. Thus causing a major pain in the ass to take out. Some us got lucky with PB blaster. While others had to resort to using a torch or a cutoff tool to get those bolts off.

I'm scared enough just tackling the task of installing it myself now I'm hearing they seize. They look like the best made kits for the rear and come with 2 arms so I'm getting those from HeelToe for about $165 shipped. The front I guess I'll go with SPC ball joints.

Now, do I order the ball joints that are +/- 1.5 or the +1.5 to +3.0?
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Eric.
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« Reply #6 on: April 27, 2012, 12:58:03 AM »

Well, how low are you planning on going is my question to ask you?
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Arielit0oo
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« Reply #7 on: April 27, 2012, 01:46:01 AM »

Ugh so much shit into dropping your car. I'm currently saving for coils and thought all I needed was a rear camber kit, now 2 new front ball joints? -_- lmao fuck
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CYANiDE
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« Reply #8 on: April 27, 2012, 02:31:41 AM »

Well, how low are you planning on going is my question to ask you?

I have TSX rims on it right now, plan to tuck just slightly front and rear with these for now.
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Eric.
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« Reply #9 on: April 27, 2012, 01:07:12 PM »

IIRC, tucking tire upfront is approximately a 3" drop or so.  I would recommend the Skunk2 or Megan front camber kits in those instances.
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« Reply #10 on: April 27, 2012, 01:21:04 PM »

IIRC, tucking tire upfront is approximately a 3" drop or so.  I would recommend the Skunk2 or Megan front camber kits in those instances.

Yea, going to end up going with Skunk2 arms. Makes it less work for me as well.
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Eric.
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« Reply #11 on: April 27, 2012, 07:37:36 PM »

Yeah, tucking that low will need those arms. Its a lower profile and should have adequate room for clearance between the ball joint and body.
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« Reply #12 on: April 27, 2012, 11:09:45 PM »

Dumb question but is a front camber kit really necessary? I'm planning to get F&F type 2 Coils with probably Ingalls rear. For the front, I'm planning on getting rid of the gap between the fender and wheel (TL-S). Would I need any adjustment(s) in the front?
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CYANiDE
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« Reply #13 on: April 27, 2012, 11:24:07 PM »

Dumb question but is a front camber kit really necessary? I'm planning to get F&F type 2 Coils with probably Ingalls rear. For the front, I'm planning on getting rid of the gap between the fender and wheel (TL-S). Would I need any adjustment(s) in the front?

If you plan on no gap you will probably need one. I have F&F Type 2 sitting in my house and I just need to order the camber kits.
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Eric.
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« Reply #14 on: April 27, 2012, 11:34:21 PM »

F&F coils are crazy low.  You will most likely need to get a front camber kit with them.  You can try to use them without a camber kit, but if you can't get your alignment into spec, you'll need to get a front camber kit right away so you don't destroy your tires.
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