Anyone ever do a front end overhaul?

[alpha]

My listings show the Moog Upper control arms with ball joints being cheaper than the Moog ball joints.

That sounds like a no brainer.  It's definitely easier to replace the whole upper control arm if it includes the ball joints than having to separate the stock ball joint from the upper control arm.

[Rushzer0]

Had I only checked :p I assumed the whole arm would have been more...ugh lol

[CrazyCreashunz]

I had to replace my rear wheel bearing a few years ago because of an accident too. 

Was this hard to do... I might have to do this!

[timot_one]

It wasn't that hard to do.  Only took me like an hour to do.

[MyNameIsThien]

Rear wheel bearings are really easy. Its just one giant nut that you take off and slide the old one off. The fronts are harder since you have to press them out.

[timot_one]

That's true.  The rear is a lot easier to replace than the front. 

[CrazyCreashunz]

Great cuz I think I gotta replace the front ones lol....

Thien when you say press them out can you clarify, do I need a special tool or can I jimmy it out with a flat head or something. I wanna be prepared before I tackle this! 

[Rushzer0]

You will need a shop press. I'm not at work today...dying of a cold, but maybe mike could look up if they sell the whole hub assembly. It generally costs more but you don't need a press.

[Mike]

Not that comes with a bearing that I can see.

[MyNameIsThien]

You will need a shop press or if you have a special tool that can push the bearing out of the knuckle. If doing it with a shop press, you will need to remove the knuckle from the car. You will then need to press out the hub first, then you can press out the bearing. There is a snap ring in the knuckle that you have to remove before you can press the bearing out. Its quite an extensive job to do. Its roughly a 2 hour job per side. If you have a slide hammer, you can use the slide hammer to remove the hub away from the bearing. Sometimes you can get lucky and remove both at the same time, but it is very rare.

May I ask why you think your front ones are bad? Are you hearing a groaning noise or does it have axial play? I haven't seen a double wishbone suspension layout front wheel bearing go bad besides on the older 90-07 Accord which has a bolt on bearing.

[CrazyCreashunz]

Well I get this whirling noise, I thought it was from the new tires I bought just breaking in but its been like 1 1/2 months already. So then I thought it was a bent rim but my alignment is 100% and I get NO vibration on my steering wheel at any speed. So I thought maybe from the slight accident I almost had where I 360'd on the highway because of black ice and slammed my rear driver side rim into the shoulder that possibly I damaged the bearing... but i'm not 100% sure as I have never expierenced this before.

I will be putting abrand new set of rims on the ride either wednesday or thursday so I will see if the noise continues or not.

[timot_one]

I've had to replace a rear wheel bearing from getting loose on an icy road and sliding sideways.  Have the shop check all your wheels Billy.

[MyNameIsThien]

Ok, here is a quick test you can do to test your wheel bearing without tearing apart your car. Drive your car until you hear the whirling/humming noise. As soon as you hear this noise, make a sharp left and right. If the noise gets worse in one direction and quiet in another, you have a bad wheel bearing. An impact can cause a wheel bearing to go bad. I usually recommend them everytime a customer hits a curb serverly. I get a lot of bad wheel bearings related to ice slides into curbs.

If the noise quiets down turning left, you have a bad right front wheel bearing. If the noise quiets down turning right, you have a bad left front wheel bearing. That way you can easily determine which wheel bearing is bad.

If its a rear wheel bearing, its going to be hard to determine. The best thing to do is drive your car and have someone sit in the back to determine where the noise is coming from. Since the Accords are front wheel drive, you really can't put a load on it without driving the car. If its the rear wheel bearings, all you really have to do is take off your caliper, rotors, and the one giant nut that holds the hub/wheel bearing on. I believe the hub bearing nut is either a 32mm or 36mm. Its been awhile since I've done one.

[Mike]

Ok, here is a quick test you can do to test your wheel bearing without tearing apart your car. Drive your car until you hear the whirling/humming noise. As soon as you hear this noise, make a sharp left and right. If the noise gets worse in one direction and quiet in another, you have a bad wheel bearing. An impact can cause a wheel bearing to go bad. I usually recommend them everytime a customer hits a curb serverly. I get a lot of bad wheel bearings related to ice slides into curbs.

If the noise quiets down turning left, you have a bad right front wheel bearing. If the noise quiets down turning right, you have a bad left front wheel bearing. That way you can easily determine which wheel bearing is bad.

If its a rear wheel bearing, its going to be hard to determine. The best thing to do is drive your car and have someone sit in the back to determine where the noise is coming from. Since the Accords are front wheel drive, you really can't put a load on it without driving the car. If its the rear wheel bearings, all you really have to do is take off your caliper, rotors, and the one giant nut that holds the hub/wheel bearing on. I believe the hub bearing nut is either a 32mm or 36mm. Its been awhile since I've done one.

I'm pretty sure its 36mm

[CrazyCreashunz]

I will try this tomorrow Thien and will update you guys! Sorry to thread jack ya Mike but I guess the information is still useful to us all