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linguinipenguini
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« on: September 03, 2011, 06:55:35 PM »

I've been contemplating my next upgrade and I've seriously considered a beefier fuel system. Does anyone have suggestions for Injectors, a fuel rail, a fuel pump and lines, and a Fuel Managment Unit? I am sort-of aiming for a middle-of-the-road upgrade. I'm not a fan of this "fuel economy engineering" stuff that went into play when designing the stock sytem, so my goal is to upgrade without A.) Breaking the bank, and B.) Making it so hard-core I get 10 mpg   
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linguinipenguini
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« Reply #1 on: September 03, 2011, 07:15:14 PM »

Also, anyone have any suggestions on good ignition coils?
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timot_one
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« Reply #2 on: September 04, 2011, 11:56:23 AM »

I know this is a short novel Jeff, but it's worth the read.

Let's back up a minute here.  What supporting modifications do you have that would require you to "beef up" your fuel system?  The reason why I ask is because I looked at your mod list on your profile, and an upgraded fuel system would be a huge waste of money.  

First off, you must use an engine management system, like kpro or aem fic or aem2.  Your stock ecu cannot compensate for larger injectors and it will just cause problems if you start running larger injectors.  At the same time, fuel system components aren't cheap, so doing it without breaking the bank means that you're going to end up getting crappy parts which will fail.  

I'd like to put things into perspective for you.  When I first put on my supercharger, I had to use the OEM 270cc injectors.  I didn't keep them on too long because it was only a temporary solution.  I replaced them with RDX 410cc injectors because they duty cycle with the 270cc injectors was too high and required and upgrade.  When I replaced pulley for higher boost and added an aftercooler, I upgraded the RDX 410cc injectors with RC 650cc injectors.  For all of these steps, the rest of the fuel system was completely stock.  The only other thing that I had upgraded was an aftermarket fuel rail and a fuel pressure gauge on the rail, but I ran all of these injectors on the stock fuel rail.  I only recently upgraded my fuel system, reusing the stock fuel pump (which can support up to 500 hp), running a return line, and adding a fpr.  I did this because I'm planning on some more upgrades and making more power.  Right now, I'm making about 300- 325 whp.

Another thing you mentioned was the fact that you didn't want to break the bank.  So, let's do a break down of what you actually must have if you really want to upgrade your fuel system properly.

K Pro - $1000
K Pro Harness - $440
Wide Band AFR Sensor - $100-200
AFR Sensor Adapter - $20
Injectors - $200-300
Fuel Pressure Regulator - $150-200
Fuel Rail - $150-200
Fuel Lines & Fittings - $300-400
Fuel Pump/Modification - $100-200
Total $2500-$3000

The only aftermarket coil packs that I know of are the ones that are made by Okada.  I think they're about $700 a set for a K24.  IMHO, they're a waste of money.  Go take a look at some of the built street cars and high hp purpose built drag cars over on k20a and you'll see them all using OEM coil packs.

If you really want to waste money and get 10 mpg, just drive like an asshole.  You don't need to upgrade your fuel system if you only have an exhaust.  Hell, you don't need to upgrade your fuel system if you have every bolt on available for the K24.  I guarantee that if you had the fuel system I have without any sort of engine management, you're going to turn your motor into a boat anchor quickly.

I'm not trying to be a dick about this, but I am trying to shed some light on a topic that I know a little bit about.  At this stage in the game, a fuel system will provide no benefit at all other than you can say you have an upgraded fuel system.  If you really want to do this, I have some parts for sale.  I have some RSX Type S/TSX 310cc injectors and a Skunk2 composite fuel rail with a RSX Type S fuel damper on it.  I would suggest that you spend your money on other parts instead.  Maybe consider picking up the DC header or TSX IM you have on your future mod list.  I have a DC SS header for sale too if you want it.
« Last Edit: April 22, 2012, 04:16:43 PM by timot_one » Logged

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linguinipenguini
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« Reply #3 on: September 04, 2011, 09:33:54 PM »

Thanks for the insight man. Just out of curiosity, what is the highest compression you'd recommend on stock internals?
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timot_one
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« Reply #4 on: September 04, 2011, 09:41:22 PM »

What do you mean by that?  How are you planning on raising the compression?
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« Reply #5 on: September 04, 2011, 09:56:08 PM »

In the not-so distant future I'm planning on doing a k20 head swap with a buddy of mine. My plan is to build the head up with Toda cams and gears and Skunk2 valves, retainers, and valve springs. I guess my real question is how resilient the stock internals will be before I upgrade to forged internals.
« Last Edit: September 04, 2011, 10:00:24 PM by linguinipenguini » Logged
timot_one
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« Reply #6 on: September 04, 2011, 10:36:16 PM »

I think a better question would be, "what are your final plans for your car?"  If you're only going to be doing a head swap, you're going to be fine with OEM internals.  If you're going to boost your motor, you may want to upgrade.  Either way, you're going to be swapping your pistons with the head swap anyway.  One cost saving option is TSX pistons and forged rods, since they are stronger than the Accord's.  They're not as beefy as aftermarket H Beam rods, but they're a good upgrade.  Another option would be to get a K24A1 bottom end, since you don't have to swap the pistons, and build the motor out of your car. 

I'd advise against Skunk2 components.  Their K Series parts aren't that good.  A lot of people have had problems with their parts.  You're better off with using Supertech parts for your valvetrain.  You probably don't need to drop the coin on the Toda cam gears.  If you have the stock K20A2 cams, you can use the 50º cam gear from that, or you can have your 25º cam gear machined to 45º.  That'll help you save some money on expensive aftermarket cam gears that probably aren't necessary in your application.

I think you're going to have a bigger challenge with the wiring since nobody makes a "plug and play" kpro harness for the K24A8.  I'm not sure if one of the K Tuned harness can be adapted for your car.  You may want to call and talk to Mike at K Tuned to see what he knows.
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Tim
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linguinipenguini
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« Reply #7 on: September 05, 2011, 05:37:25 PM »

I'm planning on keeping it naturally aspirated and swapping the pistons for TSX pistons and rods if you think they can get the job done. In terms of getting it tuned with KPro I was going to have a local shop that is liscensed for Hondata equipment set up the ecu and run it on a dyno. I'm planning on begining with the build in May after I have all of the parts and some time. Thank you so much for your advice!
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« Reply #8 on: September 05, 2011, 05:50:03 PM »

If you're going to try and bump the compression, I believe that the '09 TSX pistons are higher compression.  Tuning and calibrating kpro is one thing, but you need to to basically have a custom harness made for you to run kpro.  You may want to get a hold of Paul (NVA-AV6) since he has done 2 conversion harnesses for the K24A8 using a RSX Type S gauge cluster.  Maybe he can build one for you for your shop to instal.  The usual response from Hondata and their dealers is that you can't run kpro on non-authorized cars that's on their list.
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Tim
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« Reply #9 on: September 05, 2011, 08:04:59 PM »

just so you know I am one of those 2 conversions Paul has done, and to be honest for the amount of money your gonna drop to accomplish it, i don't think its worth it. either buy another car or if your going to do a swap, swap to a j-series, more power initially and more options down the road.
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