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Author Topic: CV Axle issue and DIY  (Read 5376 times)
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Mike
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« on: September 01, 2011, 12:40:32 PM »

Just posting this to provide some insight for members who may have this issue in the future. My issue started with a slight shake between 50 – 60 MPH only while accelerating. I was under the impression that a bad CV joint would create a clicking noise but, from my research and speaking to Paul the noise is not always present, and is more likely when there is an issue with the outer Joint. After changing out the passenger side CV shaft (Axle) my issue has subsided. The shake in my car in the last few days was so violent that the passenger seat would visibly shake. A new axle runs about $75 at advance auto parts.

I’ll post a little how to but, I don’t have photos to accompany it.

1.   Jack the car and place it on jack stands.
2.   Pull the wheel on the side of the CV axle your going to replace
3.   Use a chisel or punch with a hammer to “undent” for lack of a better term the axle nut. Rather than use a cotter pin the crown of the nut gets dented into a slot on the axle. If you have difficulty getting the out like I did have someone hold the axle in place with a  pipe wrench and loosen the 36mm nut mentioned below.
4.   Use a 36mm socket to remove the axle nut. Air tools help a ton at this point because this nut is a pain in the ass. If air tools are not available your going to want a big breaker bar and maybe a pipe for leverage. The torque on the nut is only 80 ft/lbs but, it’s the indent mentioned in step that makes it difficult.
5.   After the nut is removed tap the end of the axle with a  plastic hammer until it moves(the shaft shouldn’t come out at this point just move a little its easy to break it loose at this point while everything else is still tight).
6.   After you have movement remove the lower bolt of the shock/spring fork, and unbolt the lower ball joint (using a two jaw puller is the best bet).
7.   At this point the axle shaft should be able to come out of the hub completely between the range of motion in the hub, and a little help from that hammer.
8.   Now the axle needs to be removed from the intermediate shaft/transmission (depending on side). I would suggest the rental or purchase of an axle removal tool. You can pop it out with a couple of pry bars but, the key to getting it out is even pressure. The removal tool should come with a slide hammer (dent pullet) and an attachment that either bolts to the end of the axle or is u shaped and goes behind the axle (u shaped works better). Best bet is to have someone hold the hub, and suspension as far to one side as possible and go to work with the slide hammer until it comes loose.
9.   Pop the new axle in and then put everything back together.
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« Reply #1 on: September 01, 2011, 01:31:15 PM »

Nice write up Mike and thanks again for the info!
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Mike
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« Reply #2 on: September 01, 2011, 02:50:34 PM »

Not a problem..
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« Reply #3 on: September 07, 2011, 08:26:08 AM »

Didn't feel like it deserved a whole thread and didn't wanna post it in the chatroom Wink so I'll post it here.  I replaced the axle, the cv joint was bad, and now it still has a slight shimmy... I haven't checked this out yet (cause of the rain), but do you guys think it would be possible for this to be happening if a wheel weight fell off?  It's only when I'm accelerating, i feel it shaking thru the pedal, as soon as I let off it stops.  Thanks in advance.
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« Reply #4 on: September 07, 2011, 09:04:07 AM »

If it's a wheel weight it should be shimmying all the time I would think

Also nice write up! I will be doing this shortly I have the exact syptoms that you did :/ my Axel didn't much like the little wheel hop it saw at the recent set of drag races here. I'm sure on fresh Axels it would have been not so bad but these have 140xxx miles on them lol
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« Reply #5 on: September 07, 2011, 11:14:08 AM »

There are a lot of factors that come into play when you have a shake or shimmy.  It really could be any component of your suspension or drivetrain that is causing it.  The first place I always start is checking my tire pressure, then jack the car up and check for damage/excessive play in my suspension components.  You probably want to check your wheel bearings, both axles, and your motor mounts.  I know that you just replaced one of your axles, but I've gotten brand new aftermarket axles and they made my car shake even worse than before.
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« Reply #6 on: September 07, 2011, 11:18:15 AM »

Alright thanks Tim.  Im gonna rotate the tires tonight, so I'll check it all out while I have it up.
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« Reply #7 on: September 07, 2011, 12:22:47 PM »

Could be the drive side CV joint. My car still has a little I just ignore it.
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« Reply #8 on: September 07, 2011, 12:58:18 PM »

ill give it a tug when I have it up tonight.  Also... I just went out and there IS NOT a weight on the passengerside front wheel... so hopefully thats it.  And if it is, I just want to get it to the back so I can put the car on the rollers on sat! Cheesy  If I still have the shake by sat, not puttin it on the dyno.
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« Reply #9 on: September 07, 2011, 07:13:46 PM »

Something to add to Mike's write up:
check the seals on the trans-axle and be careful not to damage them when putting the axles back in; a slight tear, and you'll be doing this again, soon. I recommend replacing them $5. I used a flat head screw driver to pop it out and the 36mm socket with a rubber mallet to knock it in.

Great write up Mike!

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« Reply #10 on: September 08, 2011, 08:19:29 AM »

K so rotated and the problem persists, but I noticed that neither wheel on the passenger side has a wheel weight on it... so that wouldnt have helped anyway, haha.  I'm gonna take it in and get em balanced hopefully tonight or tomorrow, if not, on saturday I'll swap on my snow tires and go for a ride just to try and confirm... which sucks, looks like I'm waitin til Oct to get the car on the dyno. Sad
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« Reply #11 on: September 08, 2011, 08:48:16 AM »

It's unlikely that you would have 2 wheels that are "perfectly" balanced without wheel weights.  Definitely go get them balanced.
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