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Author Topic: How To: Skunk2 Front Camber Kit (Courtesy of Heel Toe)  (Read 4071 times)
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MyNameIsThien
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« on: June 21, 2011, 09:38:51 PM »

Here is a DIY for the Skunk2 Front Camber kit. This DIY is courtesy of Heel Toe. I was going to do one, but my boss was around. So, I just rushed the install. Hope this helps anyone out who will be purchasing this camber kit. This is a fairly easy DIY, but remember, you will need an alignment ASAP.



Step 1: Remove top hat nuts and jack up car to drop shock down. Make sure to support with jack stands.



Step 2: Remove wheel and remove cotter pin from control arm ball joint castle nut. I use side-cutters for this job. Also remove the 10mm-head bolt securing the ABS sensor wire.



Step 3: Unthread nut almost all the way, but leave it on a few threads.Hit the ball joint housing at the top of the steering knuckle to shock it free. There is upward tension on the ball joint and the arm will want to fly up when you release it. The nut will keep things under control. Pry up gently as needed to free stubborn ball joints. This is a 17mm nut on most all Honda/Acura cars.



Step 4: With the arm up, pull the shock toward you. Push down on the knuckle/hub to give more room as needed.



Step 5: Now use a wrench or socket/ratchet to loosen the two 14mm-head bolts. A long extension with swivel socket is easiest here.



Step 6: Remove the old arm and compare to the new to make sure you have the right side and all is good.



Step 7: I like to move the ball joint to the middle of adjustment range to get a stock-ish setting before getting an alignment (you MUST get an alignment after installing these arms!). YOU HAVE TO TIGHTEN THESE BOLTS PROPERLY. THEY ONLY NEED LIKE 15 FT-LBS OR SO BUT FAILURE TO TORQUE THESE BOLTS WILL BE CATASTROPHIC!



Install is the same as removal. The arms come with new nuts, but I like to reuse the originals because it is a little taller for better engagement with the cotter pin. No matter what you may have heard, in 99% of automotive repair, reusing fasteners is completely safe and acceptable.

Step 8: Torque this nut until it is basically tight but not over-kill tight. Look for the castle nut to line up with the hole in the ball joint stud. As you tighten a bit at a time you will see that at one point there will be a line-up. Only achieve line-up while tightening. DO NOT LOOSEN to achieve line-up. If you go to far, undo the nut, and re-torque.



Step 9: Re-install the cotter pin and ABS wire bracket, and you are done! Now do the other site and get an alignment Wink
« Last Edit: June 22, 2011, 01:18:15 PM by MyNameIsThien » Logged
super425
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« Reply #1 on: May 16, 2013, 06:27:52 PM »

Which skunk 2 is this one do you have the part number
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