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Author Topic: How To: Steering Rotational Check & Guide Screw Adjustment  (Read 7889 times)
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clapton924
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« on: April 10, 2010, 01:14:53 AM »

This will be a work-in-progress as I work on my car.

1. Turn the front wheels to the straight ahead position.

2. Measure how far you can turn the steering wheel left and right without moving the front wheels.
   
Rotational limit: 0-10mm (0-0.39in)

- If the play is within the limit, the gearbox and linkages are OK.
- If the play exceeds the limit, adjust the rack guide.  If the play is still excessive after the rack guide adjustment,  inspect the steering linkage and gearbox.



Rack guide adjustment will be next....

Steering Rack Guide Screw Adjustment

1. Jack up the front of your car (with parking brake on!) , and support the chassis with at least 1 stand (preferably 2).  Also, make sure your steering wheel is in the straight-on position.

    -The rack guide screw is located in the area indicated by the arrow.




2.  Locate the 40mm locknut on the guide screw and hit it with some penetrating fluid.  



3.  Next you will need this special 40mm locknut wrench from Honda to loosen the nut.  The space is very tight...you can't fit a normal wrench/socket into the space.



4.  Remove the 40mm locknut, and wipe it off.



5. Here is the guide screw with the locknut off.  The guide screw has a 3/8" socket on it...use a small ratchet to tighten the guide screw.  ***Note*** I just tightened the guide screw until it "bottomed out". There is a more elaborate procedure if you guys want to follow the books. I will post the "official" instructions below.



6. Thread the locknut back onto the guide screw with your hand until it seats. Using the special wrench, snug up the locknut.

7.  Put your wheel back on, and lower your car.

8. Go for a test drive. My steering now feels more direct...the rotational play has been reduced.

***Official Honda Protocol***

This is for you guys who like to do things by the book, have access to a inch-pound torque wrench, and perhaps a lift.

(Starting after locknut removal)

3.  Remove rack guide screw, remove the old sealant from the rack guide screw, and apply NEW sealant (Three Bond 1215, or Loctite 5699) to the middle of the threads.  Loosly install the guide screw on the steering box.

4.  Tighten the guide screw to 25 N.m (18 lbf.ft) then loosen it.


« Last Edit: April 26, 2010, 09:57:44 PM by clapton924 » Logged
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« Reply #1 on: April 13, 2010, 04:40:53 PM »

Greg, I made this a thread a sticky since I think this is awesome info. Good for people to learn.
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Rich01
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« Reply #2 on: March 24, 2014, 08:42:26 PM »

So I've been having some issues with my steering response going on a year now. Lose feeling in the steering. After seeing fluid in one inner tie rod boot, and having Paul check it out, we came to the conclusion that the rack needs to be replaced. Summary of what happened from there:
Went to replace rack
Saw that replacement was wrong
Decided to take down old rack any way
Performed rack guide adjustments mentioned above
2 weeks later and it's back to feeling the same

Now i just stumbled on a thread on acurazine about base tl guys upgrading to type s racks. I know the sub-frames are the same just in aluminum, but does anyone have any idea if the type s will fit an 03 v6 coupe mt. From what little research i did, it seems that only the internal gearing ratio is different between the base and type s thus better steering response. Thoughts?
« Last Edit: March 24, 2014, 08:46:32 PM by Rich01 » Logged

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« Reply #3 on: March 24, 2014, 11:23:24 PM »

So I dug a little more into this
accord is 42.25 vs 42.88 long
turn to turn 2.75 vs 3
inlet size 14mmx1.5 vs 16mmx1.5

I don't think the length would be an issue that can be offset in the tie rods. I would have to replace the inlet line or get a tool to make a flare and replace the nut or get an adapter? I'm just not sure about the turn to turn
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