Ignition Harness Wiring for lights

[Jeff Likes Bagels]

I edited this OP to keep it updated with my status of the project.

So far, I've tapped into the ignition harness, but the cold cathode lights aren't working.

[CrackerTeg]

Dome Supervision - green/red - (-) - back of fuse box light

That's exactly what you need right there. Maybe someone can elaborate further.

[cna]

so let me get this right your trying to add the lights to the footwells area to turn them on using the power from your dome light? you can always tap into the 12v socket and add a switch to control them it will be less wiring that way.

[stirfriedferret]

Find a constant 12v power source and wire it that way so you can turn it on even if the car is off.  You can wire it straight from the battery and send the wire through the firewall if you want. You can then ground the wires anywhere that touches unpainted metal. I just drilled into the firewall to make my own ground. But I suppose if you do find the power source to the dome light, you can use that. It's a constant 12v power source so that'll do the trick. Good luck!

Edit: I totally didn't even answer your question...  If you have a digital multi meter (I don't recommend an analog meter), you can ground it and back probe those connectors that you're looking at and tap or solder into whichever one is the constant 12v (I prefer soldering as a more permanent connection).

[Jeff Likes Bagels]

I found this, so I may try it out:

http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showt ... hp?t=12921

However, I don't have those red plug thingies that he used. I do have a shitload of wire nuts, though. Would it still work?

[Jeff Likes Bagels]

Jesus christ, I can't get the fucking top half of the steering column off. It won't snap off of the bottom part.

[mnkyman]

jeff man, don't go through the steering column...that's just a pain, especially with all those wires lol.

I agree with cna's recommendation, tap into the wires of the 12v socket (the car lighter), and then you can throw a switch in there somewhere so you can turn it on and off....plus getting to the wires of the 12v socket is easy, the cupholders pop out, then the trim panel around the shifter comes out (either has 2 screws or just pops out as well...can't remember) and then there are 2 screws to get the 12v socket/"not an ashtray" piece out and the socket should have two wires coming off the back....you can tap into those and then run you wiring to either side to the footwells for the lighting project your planning on.


EDIT: forgot to add, the red things the guy is using are called "automotive wire taps"...it's the easier way to "tap" into wires...and should be fine, but if you ask most people around here, they would recommend stripping the wire and soldering on new wire to tap in. If your new to electronics, you might just want to use the wire taps for now, until you get the hang of stripping/soldering.  Make sure you get automotive wire taps though (like at autozone or somewhere), because the ones they sell in electronics stores like radioshack tend to be for thinner wires and you'll have a hard time trying to get them to fit the car wires

[timot_one]

If you didn't understand the wiring guide, why didn't you ask me?  Did you remove the bottom half of the steering column?  You know you have to remove the screws first right?

[Jeff Likes Bagels]

Yes, i removed the three screws. It's just that the bottom half will not separate from the top half. Period. I tried pushing in on the sides to maybe unhook the clips; nothing. I even tried prying them apart from the sides.

My main plan was to have the lights turn on whenever the other interior lights turn on, hence why i was going to tap into the ignition light.

Sorry for making this overly complicated, lol. Once i can get the steering column off, it'll all be downhill from there. Just to be sure, are there any other screws besides the 3 on the bottom?

[timot_one]

Nope.  It is a pain in the ass to pull apart though.

[cna]

Yes, i removed the three screws. It's just that the bottom half will not separate from the top half. Period. I tried pushing in on the sides to maybe unhook the clips; nothing. I even tried prying them apart from the sides.

My main plan was to have the lights turn on whenever the other interior lights turn on, hence why i was going to tap into the ignition light.

Sorry for making this overly complicated, lol. Once i can get the steering column off, it'll all be downhill from there. Just to be sure, are there any other screws besides the 3 on the bottom?

So tap into your shifter light that's what i did when i installed my led cup holder so once the dash board lights up it will as well

[Jeff Likes Bagels]

Ok, I got the steering column cover off, and I tapped into wire 5 and 6 on the ignition harness, however, the cold cathode lights aren't working. And by the way, I meant to say that I wanted the lights to come on whenever I unlock/open the doors, sorry about the confusion. That's the reason why I wanted to use the ignition harness in the first place.

12 volts - white (50A) - (+) - ignition harness
Starter - black/white - (+) - ignition harness
Ignition - black/yellow - (+) - ignition harness
Accessory - black/red - (+) - ignition harness
2nd Accessory - white/red - (+) - ignition harness
Keysense - red/white or red/black - (-) - ignition harness or MICU (green plug, pin 13)

The DIY I followed told me to use the "2nd Accessory' and "Keysense" wires, which I did, but as I said, the lights won't turn on. Another odd thing is that whenever I hook the inverter into the tapped wires, the open door beep goes off like I have the key in the ignition or something, but only when the door is actually open. Basically, the car is somehow thinking that the inverter is my key, lol.

Am I doing something wrong here? I made a diagram of how I currently have it set up:

[timot_one]

That DIY just fucked you all up and is completely wrong.  Whoever gave you those instructions is a fucking idiot and doesn't know jack shit about 12 volt electronics.  I wish you would have come to me in the beginning and asked about this instead of being vague about what you wanted to do.  Did you test these wires to see what they actually do before you started this project?  I don't know exactly how the keysense wire acts, but I would assume that it grounds when you insert your key.  I can guarantee that the 2nd accessory will only give you 12 volts when your keyswitch is in the II position, which does NOT give you any power when you unlock your car or turn your dome light on.

If you want help with this and you want it to work, I'd be glad to help you.  If you follow my instructions exactly, I guarantee that it will work the way you want it to.

[Jeff Likes Bagels]

Ok, it's time for me to start from scratch. This will be a lesson for me to NEVER trust any DIYs that aren't from here on ECM.

Tim, I would be MORE than happy to receive your help on this. I tested the wires with an analog multi-meter that I have, but I'm seriously doubting its accuracy since it's like really old. I'm going to ask for my dad's digital multi-meter this weekend. There was power to the wires though when the ignition light was on.

Tomorrow I'll undo everything that I've done and then we can work from there. Sorry for not providing enough info on how exactly I want this setup. It's all good though, I'll have everything back the way it was in no-time.

Basically, here's my idea. I would like the footwell lights to turn on along with the dome lights whenever I unlock the car, and open the doors.

[timot_one]

You may not find the correct connections in your steering column, but I guarantee that you will find it where your fuse box connectors are.  That is a lot easier to gain access to.  You would pull 12 volts from any constant 12 volt source and then you would ground them to the dome light supervision on the back of your fuse box which is the green/red wire.  Here's the second part of my instructions.  Before you start cutting or stripping wires, you need to test them with a DMM.  For the 12 volt source, you will have 12 volts at all times if your car is on or off.  For the domelight supervision wire, it will give you continuity when you unlock your doors or open them (when your dome light turns on by itself).  You must fuse the 12 volt wire to your cathode transformer box if you don't want to risk setting your car on fire, and you must solder and heat shrink your connections if you only want to do it once.  Do not use t-taps or wire nuts.  There are only 2 acceptable methods for making an electrical connection, crimping butt connectors IF you're using a ratcheting crimper or soldering with heat shrink tubing.  My preference is for heat shrink and would strongly recommend you do the same.