alpha Detailed: 08 S2000 GPW CR - In Progress & Help Request

[alpha]

Hello All,

This is my first time using a PC.  I bought a 7424XP, but I had to send it back for an exchange since it was defective.

Anyways, I found out that one of my friends has a 7336SP and he let me borrow it.

I have some questions, and some in progress photos.

This isn't my first detail, but it is my first detail with a PC.  And it's the first time I've detailed the s2k.

I don't drive it everyday, and I try and keep it clean, which is why the before pics don't show a lot of dirt.

Here's some before pics..




Cleaning the arches and wheels.  I used some Megs All Wheel Cleaner for the back of the wheel.  For the front, I had some Turtle Wax Car Wash from back in the day, so I used that.




A couple pictures of under the license plates..




I then washed the car using Palmolive dish soap to strip any sealants and wax that happen to be on it.  Honestly, I haven't waxed the car since I got it 7 months ago, but the dealer tossed in the protection package they offer, so it had should have had some sealant on it.

The following pic shows the beading before washing the car with Palmolive.  I have washed the car with ONR, so I think some of the beading is from the use of ONR.



The following pics are after I washed with Palmolive, clayed, and washed again wiht Megs Deep Crystal Car Wash.  I clayed the car with Mother's clay that I bought OTC.   The paint was fairly clean.  It was a showroom car at the dealership, and it stays garaged at home.








Some pics of it taped up..





Here are some pics after a pass of polishing with the PC..

I'm using Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover 3.0 because it came with the kit I bought the PC with.  I'll be following this with Wolfgang Finishing Glaze 3.0, and then with Pinnacle Paintworks Cleansing Lotion (if necessary).  I'm also doing an IPA wipedown after polishing each section.

Here's a couple pics of the driver's side of the hardtop.  I used a LC CCS 6.5" white pad with the Total Swirl Remover 3.0.  I spread it on speed 3 and worked it in on speed 5.

These pics were taken under halogens.  I'm going to take some better pictures using the sun tomorrow.




Here's a pic of the hood.  Hard to tell since it's white.



Here's a couple pics of the passenger side.  In the first pic, I used a LC CCS Orange Pad 6.5" to see if I could get some better correction (since the white pad left some light swirls and scratches on the drivers side).  I didn't notice better correction using the halogens, so I went back to a white pad on the right side of the hardtop (the second pic).




So here are my questions:

1.  The paint isn't looking fully corrected.  I've read that Honda paint is soft, so I'm trying not to go too aggressive.  There are still some traces of light swirls and scratches after the first pass of TSR 3.0.  I was thinking of using the FG as a finishing polish to get rid of any holograms or anything if they do show up after the first step of polishing.  I'm planning on using the FG with a white pad.  Should I try another pass with the TSR and CCS white pad combo? Or should I try something else?  Or should I just say thats good enough, go with the FG, and then the cleansing lotion?  (hopefully if the latter, the paint looks fully corrected).
2.  Is the product/pad combo not aggressive enough?  Should I not expect full correction from the first step?  I also have Megs Swirl X and Megs Polish (Step 2 in their 3 step system).

After polishing, I'm planning to add 2 layers of DPGS 3.0 followed by a layer of SSII as LSP.  I'm applying 2 layers of DPGS 3.0 to maximize coverage.

I vacuumed the interior, but I'm going to be applying some Vinylex.  I'm also planning to use Megs NXT Tech Wax to seal the wheels.

Any help and tips would be greatly appreciated!  Thanks.

[Mike]

I'm not nearly the most qualified person to answer this but, in my opinion I would switch to a bit more agressive pad, and work these specific areas. After this go back to the pad your using to remove any marring from the more agressvie pad. Then I would continue with your process. Again this is only what I would do! I suggest that you wait for Deep Gloss, or Rick to chime in but, this is what I would do.

[timot_one]

Mark, I wish I could answer your questions.  But I can't.  All I can say is, nice job so far, and I'm sure someone who knows more about this will chime in about your questions.  What detailing sites are you using for your research?  I've looked at a few of them, but the forums are overwhelming and I have no idea where to start.

[alpha]

Tim, I've done quite a bit of reading over at Autogeek and Autopia.  There is a lot of information, and it is quite overwhelming.  I'm glad to help you with what I do know and what I have learned so far.

As for where to start, you just have to come up with a plan.  There's some testing involved when you work on the car as well, especially if you are working with a new polish.  I'm thinking that a possibility of my issue is that I'm not working in the polish enough.

It is overwhelming, but my best recommendation is to do some reading (which I'm sure you've done some already), and get out there and do it.  :-)

[RTexasF]

The Pinnacle is a chemical cleaner that contains fillers. Applying it after the glaze would remove the glaze. Here is the way I would approach it but I have not used any of the products mentioned except the Deep Gloss Sealant.

I would experiment on  1/2 hood with good lighting. Mask it off to get a clean dividing line down the middle.
A white pad on the PC never did squat for me as far as removing marring. I would start off with an orange pad and the swirl remover working it slowly making sure it breaks down completely. It is possible that the swirl remover just isn't stout enough to do the job, as mentioned I have no experience with it. Once you have gotten the area as good as you can (many passes on speed 6), apply the cleansing lotion by hand and remove it. Then apply the glaze with a white pad on the PC (about speed 4-5) and remove it by hand.
Last apply the sealant by hand very thin, let it sit the required amount of time and remove it by hand. There is the finished product. Now in good lighting compare the section of the hood you have not done to the section you just completed. If that strikes your fancy do the remainder of the car in exactly the same manner.  If the very first step with the swirl remover didn't come out well enough to suit you then I suggest a step up to a better and true polish like Menzerna.

Jason may be more familiar with the products mentioned or have a whole different approach to things which is perfectly normal. Few detailers do things the same way.  I like the idea of both the Pinnacle and the glaze after polishing because the combination will help cover minor imperfections. Jason is more of a perfectionist than I and wants the prepared surface perfect, or as close as possible, and that's as it should be....his reputation is built on that.

I am taking into consideration the products that you have on hand and also that you are fairly new with the PC. My thoughts are that getting it as good as you can with the swirl remover then using the Pinnacle & the glaze should give one nice looking finish. Lock it in with the sealant and beam with pride. The areas you've done show definite improvement, no two ways about it.

[alpha]

Thanks for the tips Rick.  I tried just what you said to the hardtop, at least with the polishing stage.  I haven't applied any LSP yet though.

I applied the swirl remover with an orange pad, applied the cleansing lotion by hand, and then applied the glaze with a white pad.  The results look great!  I'm pleased, especially being new to using a PC.  I may even go over it again with the finishing glaze using a black or blue pad to jewel it.

For the rest of the car, I'm going to try using the swirl remover with a white pad at speed 6, and step up to orange if I have to.

As an fyi, Wolfgang and Menzerna teamed up for these products.  According to a member on Autopia, the Total Swirl Remover is similar to Menzerna SIP and the Finishing Glaze is similar to 106FA or Super Finish.

[RTexasF]

I wasn't aware of that, good to know. I wouldn't waste time starting with the white pad but do what you think is best.

[alpha]

Here's some after pics pre-LSP.  I'm going to apply a layer of sealant tonight, let it cure overnight, apply another layer tomorrow, let it cure, and then apply a layer of SSII.

The second pic is of the hood..

It's not 100% corrected, but it's probably about 95% if not a little more corrected.  Considering this is my first time with a PC, I'm happy with the results.

I'll take better pics after LSP.

[CrackerTeg]

Mark, that looks bad ass. I'm way too impatient to even attempt something like this, not to mention my wife would kick my ass if I spent this much time "just washing the car." Anyway, looks good man. I envy the fact that you have a CR as well BTW.

[RTexasF]

Looks great! What the hell is SS ll?

[alpha]

Looks great! What the hell is SS ll?

Thanks.  And thanks for all the help Rick :-)

SSII = Pinnacle Signature Series II Carnauba Wax

[AV6NHBP6SPD]

Here's some after pics pre-LSP.  I'm going to apply a layer of sealant tonight, let it cure overnight, apply another layer tomorrow, let it cure, and then apply a layer of SSII.

The second pic is of the hood..

It's not 100% corrected, but it's probably about 95% if not a little more corrected.  Considering this is my first time with a PC, I'm happy with the results.

I'll take better pics after LSP.

little cloudy but good enough. i would use smaller pads(5" or so, gives you better controll, i use 4" for some places) if i was you but i dont do detailing for other ppl so what do i know.

one step swirl remover doesnt usualy work good imo,
you should have had at least 2 step product,
my recomendation would have been menzerna 203 and 85, then 115 glaze, and menzerna FJM
my friend who does detail as side business tried 203 when i got it and he was amazed with it.

[alpha]

It doesn't look that cloudy in the sun.  But I think it could possibly have a little more gloss.  It's glossy in the sunlight, I'm just looking for that show car look.

Essentially, this was a two step polish.  The swirl remover followed by the finishing glaze.  The Wolfgang Finishing Glaze isn't a true glaze as much as it's a finishing polish (it does have mild abrasives).

I haven't sealed the car yet, I wanted to inspect it in the sun first.  I'm thinking about trying some Megs #7 glaze followed by sealant.

Thanks for the recommendation Misha.  I also need to get more pads.

There's some light swirling on the wing and bumpers still.  I didn't want to use an orange pad on those pieces yet.  The car looks much better, and considering it's my first time using a PC, I'm pleased.  I'm a bit of a perfectionist, and I know it's not perfect, but for now, it's good enough.

At first I thought the swirling was moderate, but I think the swirls were a bit worse than I initially expected.

[AV6NHBP6SPD]

orange is more for heavy cut/compounding (yellow is for compounding). green is fine. green with swirl remover and white with finishing polish. black for glaze i would say and blue and red for wax and sealant

i have extras


black one is 6.5, rest are 5.5

[RTexasF]

I don't understand your reluctance to use the orange pads??? You said your way wasn't working and asked for advice. Right off the bat I said to use the orange pad and you said it worked well on the roof right? Why would you not use the combination that worked on the rest of the car?? Anyone can say, "you shoulda used this or you shoulda used that" which offers  no help using the products that you have now. Smaller pads & backing plate is good advice but you don't have any so that doesn't help right now does it? A first time PC user asks someone seasoned what to do, how to do it, and then blows it off? Doesn't make me overly anxious to offer any more advice.

I'm not ill about it I just don't get it (scratches head in wonderment). The car does look very nice and reflects your hard work.