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I was just wondering if anyone knew the lift on the stock cams, and what the max lift that the stock valve springs can handle.. Please and Thank you

Part#      Adv. Dur.      Dur @ .050      Lift (in)      Lift (mm)
Stock   270°/276°   181°/173°   .372"/.383"   9.45/9.73

From here http://braincrower.com/makes/honda/k20a3k24a.shtml (http://braincrower.com/makes/honda/k20a3k24a.shtml)

hopefully its accurate

Damn. Interesting first post. Welcome to ECM. Hopefully what Ken gave you is sufficient.

What about the stock valve springs? What is the max lift they can handle? (oh and aznboi, its aakash off of gen7)

Just out of curiosity, what exactly are you trying to achieve here?  Are you planning on running aftermarket cams?  Usually, when you buy aftermarket cams, they recommend if you need to upgrade your valvesprings and retainers.  Another question you really should be asking, is what the stock timing chain tensioner can handle.  There has been a lot of failure of OEM timing chain tensioners with aggressive cam profiles.  That's why there are aftermarket solutions from Skunk2, Hybrid Racing, and Toda.

sorry i probably should have explained a bit more. its 11:35 here and im going to sleep but here is what i had posted on gen7.. the reason is that im starting to think that the installer did something wrong...and this shouldnt have happened.

http://www.gen7accord.net/forum/topics/bad-news?xg_source=activity (http://www.gen7accord.net/forum/topics/bad-news?xg_source=activity)

Yeah I remember that post stage 1 s2 cams n ur k24a8 blew. Installer decided to crank motor before checking clearance by hand cranking the motor. The blaming oem spring or something

did valve and piston make contact?  ???

yah... im gonna go and try to get the motor in the next week... got a snow day today, time to drift!!   :flip:... i think ill take it to a honda certified show and have them take a look

is it merely a valve clearance issue or you think something else went wrong?

to be honest i dont know, which is y i want to take it to a honda certified shop... being honest i really am "a fucking newb"

interested to know the cause of the trouble as my S2 cam order is due to arrive within the month...

ive heard of other people that have had success with that cam... im doin this so i can find out if they guy owes me 500 for the motor install, but ill try and find out for u

After reading your thread, it could be practically anything.  There is no reason why the Skunk2 Stage 1 cams would cause this to happen if installed properly.  If they were a set of Stage 2 or Stage 3 cams, you must replace the valvesprings.  There are quite a few people that have run Stage 1 cams with OEM valvesprings without issue.

My best guess is that the installer fucked up.  If they didn't check the timing before you cranked the motor, then that's your problem.  You may want to check and see if the guy has insurance so you can recoup some losses.  It sounds like they cut corners and ended up fucking things up.  If they said that you "bent" a valvespring, they don't know what they're talking about.  I don't trust any mechanic that guesses what the problem is without taking the motor apart to investigate the problem.

If you haven't taken a closer look at the motor, it could be practically anything.  Even a damaged sensor would cause your motor to not start.  I ended up putting the VSS back on my tranny without the proper spacer.  The tranny ended up destroying the sensor, causing an open for the VSS and all the associated sensor attached.  At that point, my car wouldn't start no matter what.  When I replaced the sensor, it fixed everything.  It just sucks that it took Paul and I a half a day to figure it out.

Ok.... so i just talked to the guy that did the install on the cams... First he said there was piston to valve contact, and that the coil springs coilbound. 2nd he said if the paper that came with the cams said "Valve train upgrade is recommended" not "required" then the cams that i was sent were not stage 1 cams.

something i thought about.. if the brian crower stage 2 cams have a lift of 410"/.410" then y do the skunk2 stage 1 cams have a lift of 0.449”/0.449”. on the brian cower site it says for the stage 2 cams that the cam "Requires kit BC0050" with a lift of .410.. then y does the skunk 2 stage 1 with a .449 lift only say recommends..if i have misunderstood something then please please correct me.. but something doesnt seem right

as per skunk2, stage1 TUNER cams don't need valvetrain upgrades. maybe you got the PRO cams?

unless they sent me pro cams in a box with the paperwork for stage 1 cams if they did that then yes.. but on the website they dont have pro k series cams..... also read my last post the one above yours... y would the stage 2 brian cower cam need springs when it has less of a lift then the skunk 2 stage 1 which doesnt require one

brian crower cams have more duration.

Have you called Skunk2 about this yet?  I bet they can provide a little bit of insight when it comes to needing a valvetrain upgrade.  My guess is that the installer fucked up and the timing was off.  If other people have used Skunk2 Stage 1 cams with the OEM valvetrain, and you got valve to piston contact, then it's either the install or you were sent the wrong cams by Skunk2.

i got the cam from chris off of gen7accord... he was selling them almost half price.

He's running them in his car too.  Something isn't right here.  Sounds like the install.

yeah as per skunk2, even stage3 cams won't have clearance issues with stock engines.

The only reason why you would have valve to piston contact is if the timing was off.  You can advance your intake cam up to 30º on a K24 Accord.  The TSX K24A2 comes with a 25º cam gear, but you can advance your intake cam up to 45º without valve to piston contact.  One reason for upgrading your valvesprings and retainers is to be able to accommodate the additional lift that most aftermarket cams give you.  My guess is that your installer fucked up and the timing was off enough to cause the damage or another thing that it could be is that your timing chain tensioner failed and your chain skipped a few teeth.  Usually, your timing chain tensioner doesn't fail immediately.  Usually it will fail over time with aftermarket cams.

is it then recommended to replace the timing chain tensioner at set intervals when aftermarket cams are installed?

No.  It's suggested that you replace the timing chain tensioner with a stronger aftermarket unit.  There are 3 companies that make them.  Toda, Skunk2, and Hybrid Racing.  Hondata uses the Skunk2 timing chain tensioner on their 2 k powered land speed cars.  You can also get a discount from Skunk2 if you already own a set of their cams.  If it were me, I'd only use the Skunk2 or Hybrid Racing tensioners.  I don't know a lot about the Toda one, because I haven't researched it.  I do know that the Skunk2 and Hybrid Racing timing chain tensioners are not remanufactured OEM units, but are completely redesigned and new units.

ok well as of right now i dont have access to the motor and neither does the mechanic... bt he said that he would compencate me 300 for the motor and 300 for the cam