Hi Tim

Yes, it was specific but only the wiring harness that was specific but the controller itself, was universal for other cars. I faintly remember that there was a plug that had both a male and female type plug that goes in between the dash harness and the gas pedal.

The one I have is the same kit that thisaznboi88 has but with a different harness.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/etc-12-step-adjustable-throttle-controller-sale-133401.html?t=133401

I have this kit on my Legacy, it works very well.

Referring to the rebuilding the front end suspension; I replaced my front end components (upper and lower ball joints, wheel bearings). It was my lower ball joints that were loose on one side (forgot which side had play) but I figured to replace them all while i was doing it anyways.

Anyways, I'm glad it was the tires making noise and not the suspension components.

Nice. Glad you are able to do this finally.
Sounds like you are pulling the motor out as apposed to dropping the sub-frame.

lol
@Mike: I'm not the one having the issues. Alex is. he said he got three codes, one was for an internal solenoid (I think it is the valve body) and another one for the shift solenoid and one other one which I have no idea of.

@ Timot_one: which light will be blinking? the "D" light?

@Mike: I have heard of AT tranny's on the V6 blowing but not on the K24. this is why I am asking. upon further communication with Alex (K24low20z); he said he has a lot of bolt on and mentioned that a solenoid inside the tranny went; I am assuming that he is referring to a valve body blew or malfunctioned.

@Crackerteg: I understand that you are only suggesting but the fw that I am including in his transaction is a F1 LW FW and new exedy oem clutch. The FW is approximately 13 lbs (i'm not positive about the weight, it's been a while since I bought this).

Are you comparing stock to stock weight?

Yes, the accord FW is heavy, this is why I bought the F1 LW FW for my original plans of just doing the clutch job instead of what I ended up doing.

I know some or most of you guys would only suggest brand name products or oem but I have used this brand of fw in other applications and it works flawlessly, this is why I bought this FW in the first place.

@Jeff: I am not sure about the programability of the gauge cluster. My shift indicator on the shift console works well enough so I will not bother with swapping gauge cluster.

I'd like to know how you killed your transmission.

Yeah, we've been texting back and forth all day.

K24Low20z: you do not need the wiring harness, ecu or gauge cluster.
you will need axles for the one side (not sure which until I see what I have)
You will be receiving the accord LW FW (not RSX)
various transmission mount and assembly bolts (I reused most of my bolts from my swap)
Clutch and brake pedal
Master and slave cylinder
various clutch lines

I'm sure that in my case it is not the transmission mount. I think it is the pin that slides into one of the gear when you put it in park is what I am having problems in. It is not a big deal as of now because whenever I park the car, I also pull the e-brake as this keeps the car from putting a load on the transmission.

"do you feel it yank when you shift it in reverse?"
When I do have a load on the transmission after parking it (normally it is second nature for me to pull up the e-brake but sometimes, my wife or my mom will drive it and they do not use the e-brake), I do have to put some muscle in order to pull it out of park and into reverse.

I noticed the same thing on my car. When I park on level ground, and there is no load on the transmission, there is no popping noise but when I do have a load on the transmission from parking on a hill, then it has a sound. The more load from parking on a steeper incline, the louder the bang.

Hi everyone

to the OP; I would do what Crackerteg said to check. My car would wonder when ever I went over rough roads or bumps. I had the same problem for a long time and this past 2 weeks, I replaced majority of my suspension which consisted of shocks, springs, upper/lower balljoints, outer tie rods and front and rear camber. When I had my friend press out my lower ball joint, I noticed the ball looking thing had play in it. I have approx. 150K on all those parts, the rubber boots on the ball joints were ripped.

I'm not too sure if anybody ran into this info but here is a link of an element owner who pulled his tranny apart and put in a 6th gear in a 2wd 5 speed element. http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums ... 55&t=25635

-------------2wd element 5 speed ratio/   RSX type S 6 speed Ratio/   TSX 6 Speed Ratio
final drive----4.765---------------------4.39-------------------------4.76
Reverse------3.583---------------------3.27-------------------------3.58
1st. Gear----3.533---------------------3.27-------------------------3.27
2nd. Gear----2.042---------------------2.13-------------------------2.04
3rd. Gear----1.355---------------------1.52-------------------------1.43
4th. Gear----1.028---------------------1.15-------------------------1.07
5th. Gear----0.825---------------------0.92-------------------------0.87
6th. gear----x-------------------------0.74-------------------------0.69

Wow, sorry to see this happen and glad to hear everyone else was ok. That tow yard is a real piece of work for not letting you get your stuff out especially your in-haler.

Anyways, good luck in your search and like what everyone else said don't jump on anything just yet and take your time but if you do really need a car, just buy a beater for the time being. Anyways, that's what I would do and then find something else I really do like.

That, I did not know or was even considering. is it just the motor mount that don't bolt up to the chassis or is there more that?

I was not responding to your question when I stated that information was incorrect, I was replying to wai_pang's information.  He states that any K20 transmission may be used for 6MT swaps, which is incorrect except for one.

You're better off swapping to a Euro-R transmission than trying to see if you can swap internals.  The Euro-R transmixer has the exact same gear ratios as the RSX-S, but in addition also has a shorter final drive AND a limited slip differential..the gears WILL be shorter than an RSX-S, and you will have an LSD without having to go third party.

One member on the old G7A (asnstyle if i'm not mistaken) swapped to a Euro-R transmission.  The chart says that the Euro-R has a K20, but fits in a CL7 chassis which leads me to believe that either the chart is wrong, or Honda designed this K20 transmission with a case that bolts up to the TSX chassis.  If I am correct, this is THE ONLY K20 transmission that will fit an Accord.  I am kicking myself for not finding one of these...If I do...I'm swapping..again.

Anybody coming. Its supposed to be a sunny day in the 80s'