and how far do you think his pedal was down to hold 130? Skippy thinks pretty much WOT....in which case he would be running lean at 13.3.

The only time you should be able to definitely read a UEGO is at WOT, that's the only time you can get a steady reading without much fluctuation.  If he plainly saw 13.3, he was at WOT.  If it was fluctuating too much, he would have had to say he saw 13.3 as an average.

Stock K24A4's run close to 12.6 at WOT with a small variance.

Are you NUTS? Not to mention on an untuned motor.  Dude why do you have to go and do something that dumb? You're so much better than that.

13.3 is leaner than you should be, which is expected.  You should be a full point lower...Not like you're pushing 15 or something crazy like that but... please don't do something to get your license ripped...

lololololol That is some funny stuff!

I was not responding to your question when I stated that information was incorrect, I was replying to wai_pang's information.  He states that any K20 transmission may be used for 6MT swaps, which is incorrect except for one.

You're better off swapping to a Euro-R transmission than trying to see if you can swap internals.  The Euro-R transmixer has the exact same gear ratios as the RSX-S, but in addition also has a shorter final drive AND a limited slip differential..the gears WILL be shorter than an RSX-S, and you will have an LSD without having to go third party.

One member on the old G7A (asnstyle if i'm not mistaken) swapped to a Euro-R transmission.  The chart says that the Euro-R has a K20, but fits in a CL7 chassis which leads me to believe that either the chart is wrong, or Honda designed this K20 transmission with a case that bolts up to the TSX chassis.  If I am correct, this is THE ONLY K20 transmission that will fit an Accord.  I am kicking myself for not finding one of these...If I do...I'm swapping..again.

There is a discrepancy with the information stated.  K20 transmissions (namely the K20a2 / K20zX RSX-S transmission) will not bolt up to an Accord chassis.  Only TSX and Accord EURO-R transmissions will swap into a 7th generation Accord.

Your answer is located two posts up, please read before posting.

well....get to it, fuckers!

...I'm too drunk to be reading this...

Ah I must have been thinking of Dextron-Murcon (an old branding of transmission fluid replaced by Chevron fluids).  

Transmission fluid has been used for a long time to clean out fuel systems.  You would add a bit to your fuel supply and it was thought to clean out the system...personally I think it would not work well in K motors.

Adding transmission fluid to your fuel is not a good idea...that's an old school trick and it would probably not work well with K series engines...

So...how much mileage do you think you're missing out on? Just have to ask.

The reason I ask is because there's virtually no mechanical reason for you to be burning more fuel than usual.  If you had an injector stuck open, you'd throw codes.  If you had REALLY bad fuel, you'd throw codes.  If you had an emissions problem (which results in bad fuel economy), you'd throw codes.  

If you're not throwing codes...there is a very small chance of a mechanical issue.  Try to think about stuff that might contribute to your poor fuel economy such as increased city driving, increased weight in the vehicle, increased use of air conditioning, a change in gas stations OR fuel grades (93-89, 89-87), or something along those lines.  There's no test you can perform on your gasoline to see if it's good or not, and frankly who the hell knows what any of us are putting into our fuel tanks these days.  You can get bad gas from any station at any given time.  Here's a test for you.  For the next three tanks of fuel, I want you to log your fuel mileage along with the type of driving done during that tank.  I also want you to go to the same gas station, gas pump, and get the same fuel every time.  Post your results here.  If those three tanks get bad results, switch gas stations and do it all over again.  If those three tanks suck, then take it to honda.  Honda will tell you to do the same thing that I've just outlined, so save yourself and the technicians the time and do it now to see if we're actually talking about a mechanical issue.

Since I have a TSX tranny, my numbers are going to be off, but just to give you an idea, I usually get about 350-360 miles per tank on 87 grade fuel.  That's a little over half highway, half city.

Disconnect the battery for 10 minutes, reconnect, then start the vehicle.  Leave it running with all electrical loads off for 10 minutes. That completes the idle learn procedure.  The O2 sensor should be tightened approximately 1/2 turn past finger tight with an O2 sensor socket.  If you are having problems, you will throw codes.  If you are not having problems, you will not throw codes.  O2 sensor codes come back almost instantly if there is still a problem.  You cannot run the car for any longer than about 10 seconds with an existing O2 sensor fault.  If you cleared the codes with a bad sensor, then turned the car on, the codes would come back instantly.

Poor fuel economy can be due to a couple of reasons, most likely bad gas or the amount of ethanol they're introducing into the mix.  Our cars weren't designed to burn it, and contrary to big brother's plans, it does nothing but make fuel economy worse and reduce corn supplies for human consumption.

I've probably missed all the events that led up to this, so I'll just ask somebody off forum about it.  Riding in a quiet car is nice....riding in a stock car is nice also...every time I get into an unmodified car it's like I've never ridden in a car before and I'm like "wow it's so smooth!!!!"

I personally don't know of anybody who has used those headers but I would recommend against anything other than comptech or DC-sports.  DC has their own problems with the flex-pipes cracking.  The only recommendation referring to header purchase is to buy something that's not made by OBX, Ebay, or NOPI.