[REQUEST] Big 3 upgrade

[timot_one]

Well, you could get rid of your a/c compressor.  When your a/c compressor clutch kicks in, it puts a load on the engine, lowering the RPM's for a second and reducing the output voltage of the alternator.  You could use a voltage stabilizer (a.k.a. - bank of capacitors) to reduce changes in voltage, but I haven't noticed much of a difference with mine.

[Paulius005]

I like my A/C. I guess I have a few electrical upgrades I should do...

Are you talking about these:
http://www.nengun.com/buddy-club/racing-spec-condenser
http://www.nengun.com/pivot/raizin-volt-stabilizer-blue

Or actual capacitors?

[cna]

you don't need actual capacitors Any of those will be good depending how much you looking to spend  since basically there also capacitors

[timot_one]

Well, those voltage stabilizers are just a bank of capacitors with a grounding kit.  There's no need to add a capacitor though.  I have the Buddy Club racing spec condenser, but haven't noticed a difference from before I had it.  I guess you could try a small capacitor between the alternator and battery, but I'm pretty sure it won't make much of a difference.

[cna]

Heres how i did mines but i didt take the blot off the alternator i slice the wire closest i could to the connection  taped it as good as i could then i ran the wire to a cap with 100amp fuse to my (+) battery terminal this setup is temporary i will be getting a distribution block to run another to a amp&sub

amp wiring kit

the red wire runs  trough the gray one and taped it off i took a lot of the red covering off to get it to fit stock looking

fused it n bamm all done

[CrackerTeg]

Clemente, do you still have the factory wire hooked to your alternator? If you do, your asking for problems, i.e. a fire, if you leave it like that. The idea is to replace the cable going to your alternator. Not add to it.

[cna]

there both hooked up so i guess ill have to just remove the factory one and leave the new one just directly to the battery?

[CrackerTeg]

Pretty much. Put a new terminal on the end of the cable you have taped to the factory cable and hook that up to the alternator as well as the battery side. Personally, I wouldn't leave the factory cable just hanging there. I'd remove it completely.

[cna]

Iight am doing it now thank for the tip

[timot_one]

The idea is to add an additional wire actually.  You're basically just reducing the resistance for current to flow from your alternator to your battery.  Slicing your OEM wiring harness is a BAD idea.  Only using electrical tape, water WILL get in and over time the conductor will corrode and will eventually create an open.  You want to take the wire, add a ring terminal to that, bolt it to the terminal on your alternator.   Splicing the wire is just asking for trouble.  I bet that was a motherfucker to solder.  You did solder it, right?

[CrackerTeg]

The idea is to add an additional wire actually.  You're basically just reducing the resistance for current to flow from your alternator to your battery.  Slicing your OEM wiring harness is a BAD idea.  Only using electrical tape, water WILL get in and over time the conductor will corrode and will eventually create an open.  You want to take the wire, add a ring terminal to that, bolt it to the terminal on your alternator.   Splicing the wire is just asking for trouble.  I bet that was a motherfucker to solder.  You did solder it, right?

Ok. Well, I stand corrected. From the way he has it hooked up, I'd much rather replace the cable. Learn something new everyday.

[timot_one]

The way it's been explained to me, is that you're just adding another path for current to flow.  A 4 gauge and an 8 gauge cable of equal length will have less total resistance than a 4 gauge cable alone.

[cna]

soo i i keep both wires ill set it up that way and yes i solider the ends of the new terminal

[CrackerTeg]

The way it's been explained to me, is that you're just adding another path for current to flow.  A 4 gauge and an 8 gauge cable of equal length will have less total resistance than a 4 gauge cable alone.

True. But current also chooses the path of least resistance. Therefore, theoretically, the 8 gauge wire wouldn't see much current if any due to the current going down the 4 gauge cable.

Clemente, go with what Tim is saying. The way you had it before looked too damn dangerous to me and defeated the purpose.

[cna]

so i set it up the way timot_one said n solder the wires to gold terminal also taped it up, also customize the stock rubber piece that protects the connection to fit the wires    i will see how it holds up tonight on my way to work ill see if i notice any difference