How To: Rear Sway Bar.

[MyNameIsThien]

Here is my second attempt at a DIY. This is just an install and not removal because my original sway bar has been removed before hand. I know my car is pretty dirty due to the magnesium chloride.

Tools:

12mm socket
14mm wrench
3/16 hex key or hex socket
3/8 ratchet or 1/2 ratchet (whichever suits you better)
Rust penentrant

First, remove the 14mm bolt connecting the sway bar to the end links (Be sure to spray some rust penetrant). This is where the hex key come in. When the 14mm bolt and the end link starts to turn together, you stick the hex key or hex socket inside the end link. From there, you loosen the 14mm bolt while keeping the hex key stationary.




After you have loosen the bolts off the end links, you then proceed to loosen the bolts that are connecting the brackets to the frame.




Now, remove the sway bar out of the way.



Place the new sway bar in its position. Put the bolts that are connecting the brackets to the frame on.




Slide the end links into the holes of the sway bar.




Tighten the 14mm bolt and again use the hex key and the 14mm wrench to tighten the bolt down.

Finish product should look like so. I hope this helps anyone who is going to install a rear sway bar.

[Skippy]

Excellent write-up Thien!

[stirfriedferret]

This is a little off topic but still relates to the sway bar, but has anyone (with the 4cyl) have any issues with the TL-S sway bar rubbing against the exhaust hanger?  When I put my car on the rack and did an inspection, I saw that the exhaust hanger was rubbing against the sway bar and actually dug in about 1mm. It's gone through the paint and I could see a little rust on the sway bar. I'm assuming that the larger diameter is what causes them to rub.

[timot_one]

Yes Brian, it has been mentioned that other i4 owners with the TL-S rear sway bar have had this issue.  They have resolved it by bending the exhaust hangar for more clearance.

[stirfriedferret]

Thanks for clearing that up, Tim.  I just thought that was an important thing to bring up for future reference.

[rich]

thien +100 for his DIY's

his DIY ingalls camber kit helped out a bunch!!!

[fabulous010]

i dont kno if i should go for a tl type s or regular tl sway bar... i would run it with the V6 stb and sum koni yellows? would be kinda rough for every day driving?

[timot_one]

Not at all.  I have pretty much every suspension upgrade for my car and DD is still fairly comfortable because my shocks and spring rates aren't too stiff.  In case you were wondering, I have:

Tein Basics
Ingalls rear camber kit
Ingalls front camber kit (to be installed)
Comptech 22 mm rear sway bar
TL-S 27 mm front sway bar
Accord V6 6MT shock tower bar
Neuspeed shock tower bar
Cusco Type II chassis brace
Ingalls engine torque damper
OEM solid filled transmission mount

[fabulous010]

hey tim does the comptech 22mm rear make contact with the exhaust hanger bracket? also i heard there are issues with snap oversteer with the 20mm rear? i dont kno anything about this

[timot_one]

If you don't upgrade your front sway bar, yes you will have the potential to oversteer.  There are issues with the OEM exhaust hangars hitting the rear sway bar.

[fabulous010]

i would definetly be doing both front and rear. thanx tim as for the contact would bending the exhaust hanger have any inpact on my exhaust. would exhaust become lose after wear and tear. would it be off center from the back? and that would be with ONLY the oem exhaust not with lets say an apexi cat back?

[timot_one]

Not that I know of.  You shouldn't have much of a problem when you bend it as long as you do it properly and use common sense.

[fabulous010]

i am dying to do a next mod on my car. the type s rear sway is fairly inexpensive compared to the front. is the oversteer that bad to have just the rear sway? for a few months? till i get the front.... are these the exact parts i need for the rear sway DIY?

2005-2008 tl type-s
52300-SEP-A11 20mm rear sway
52306-SEP-A11 bushing x2
52308-S3M-A00 bracket x2

[NVA-AV6]

Great write up thien, but the end links use a 5mm hex key, 3/16 is close, but if the hex key area is weak (like most are) it does not fit as tight and can be a bit easier to strip.

[fabulous010]

i finally got my TL-S 20mm sway. i went to go install it today, but i had trouble removing the nut from the stabilizer link. it was seized in there pretty well. i sprayed wd-40 on it, but that wasn't enough. im going to have to put some rust penetrator in there. maybe the use of a hoist would make it easier to take off, giving me more leverage.

any advice?