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timot_one
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« Reply #315 on: July 29, 2011, 07:31:28 PM »

What difference does it make if you have one amp or two?  You should only have one power wire from your battery to your trunk?  It also looks like the  channel amp you got has an auxiliary output, so all you have to do is run an rca cable from the output of your 4 channel amp to your sub amp.
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« Reply #316 on: July 30, 2011, 12:10:06 AM »

Tim I think you misunderstood. I only have 8 gauge installed right now. I would need to swap to a 4 gauge and then have it go to a distributor block (used the Crutchfield chart 600rms X 2 / 13.7~ 88 amps. the Issue is that the hole I feed the 8 gauge wiring is already packed with other wires. So I don't think i can fit the 8 gauge wiring in even if I removed the 8 gauge to take its place.

The idea I had was the mono block will solo power the monoblock. The 4 channels are going to power the 6.5  and 6x9 speakers. But issue is I don't know where else I can feed the 4 gauge to without drilling a hold through the firewall. Any suggest there? Not sure if it is really worth the trouble. I am just going to run the sub first and see how I like it.

I used this chart

http://www.crutchfield.com/learn/learningcenter/car/cable_gauge_chart.html?g=120&tp=115

and my wiring as of right now is 17ft.
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timot_one
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« Reply #317 on: July 30, 2011, 08:14:29 AM »

Try passing the wire through the firewall in a different point.  There's a hole in the firewall that passes into the frame rail that's near where your steering passes through.  You mentioned you were using a different hole.
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« Reply #318 on: August 02, 2011, 05:43:35 PM »

Hey Tim thanks for your help. You were right about the amp. It does have an Aux output so I can hook that up to my mono Amp. I been cleaning up that hole behind the clutch and rewiring a few things to remove the cluster from it. That way I can get the 4 gauge through.
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« Reply #319 on: August 02, 2011, 06:31:48 PM »

Just wondering how do you remove the rear deck plastic? I need to sound dampen that area. It rattles with the sub inside now
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« Reply #320 on: August 02, 2011, 08:45:11 PM »

Just wondering how do you remove the rear deck plastic? I need to sound dampen that area. It rattles with the sub inside now

remove the rear speaker grill covers that pop up first...then remove the speakers (factory bolts are 8mm screws, unless you already changed speakers using a diff screw)..

remove the rear c pillars by popping out the airbag cover tab first

there's a screw on each side of the C pillars..i forget exactly where but only 1 screw..once those are out..the rest of it "pops" out...

remove the 3rd brakelight (if equipped on rear deck) by popping/unclipping from underneath and removing the  bulb from it

i'm 99% positive the rest of the rear deck pops out


i am going off everything i did in my 04 accord coupe...not sure if it changes in the year/body style though
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« Reply #321 on: August 02, 2011, 09:52:12 PM »

sounds good. I am doing it on an 06 sedan. So hopefully its the same.
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timot_one
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« Reply #322 on: August 03, 2011, 08:43:04 AM »

It's fairly similar with the sedan.
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« Reply #323 on: August 03, 2011, 05:14:04 PM »

Hey guys, I did a search and didn't come up with anything so I was wondering if anyone knows what the factory 6 disk cd changer "premium audio system" puts out per channel?  Someone said max 20 watts, i was really hoping the number would have been higher.  I'm just trying to do a small upgrade without changing the head unit just to get a slightly stronger sound.  I was thinking about buying an amp small enough to just feed two decent quality read deck speakers.  Any suggestions for a small cheap upgrade with either the method I mentioned or any other?

Thank you.
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« Reply #324 on: August 03, 2011, 11:23:34 PM »

You should remove your speakers and seal them against the mounting surface.  I usually use closed cell foam or double sided tape.  That will give you the best bang for your buck.  If you want, you can upgrade your front speakers with something aftermarket that's better than stock.  Anything else, and you're wasting your time and money since you're looking for a "cheap" upgrade.
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« Reply #325 on: August 04, 2011, 03:10:14 PM »

I'm sorry, I don't fully understand what you mean by sealing the speakers.  I've never heard of this.  Are you simply saying to double stick the speaker to the mounting location? If so, what does that do? Or something like building something to seal off the back side of the speakers? 

I considered just upgrading the speakers but from what I gather the head unit will underpower them and it will sound just as bad if not worse after I'm done.  I might be able to get a used amp off of a buddy for cheap so that isn't an issue in terms of money.  I just didn't want to spend as much money as a lot of you guys have done in your systems.  I don't want subs, I have no need for it being that I listen to country, haha.  I also don't want to mess with putting in a second head unit.
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« Reply #326 on: August 04, 2011, 07:19:23 PM »

By sealing off the speaker, you seal the speaker from the surface it's mounted to so you reduce the back waves.  The double sided tape goes between the back of the speaker and the door/rear deck that it's bolted on to.
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« Reply #327 on: August 04, 2011, 07:45:14 PM »

I can't find anything about this online, just sealing the door panels themselves.  Do you mean to litteraly seal off the back of the speakers as in over the magnet and cone (not even sure if the cone is visible from the back of car speakers)? Cover everything on the back side of the speaker?
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timot_one
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« Reply #328 on: August 04, 2011, 07:51:04 PM »

No.  All you're doing is creating a "gasket" between the speaker and the surface it's mounted to.  Does that help?
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« Reply #329 on: August 04, 2011, 08:29:49 PM »

yes thank you.  This allows the speaker to project better?  Something so simple is worth trying.
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