Audio/Video Q&A Thread

[Asim]

Do we need some sort of antenna extension cable to hook up to aftermarket deck (when using Lower Cubby kit)?

[Jeff Likes Bagels]

Speaking of HD radio, is there any way of integrating that into the factory navi? I remember looking at Crutchfield, but they didn't have anything.

[timot_one]

Do we need some sort of antenna extension cable to hook up to aftermarket deck (when using Lower Cubby kit)?

I haven't needed to use one for my h/u.  You may need to free the antenna from the clips that are holding it in place so you have extra slack.  You can buy an extension if you really want to though.

Speaking of HD radio, is there any way of integrating that into the factory navi? I remember looking at Crutchfield, but they didn't have anything.

You won't be able to "integrate" a HD radio with your OEM h/u in the true sense of the word.  If you can get a 3rd party add on HD radio tuner, then you can add it to your OEM h/u with something like the USA Spec adapter with the AUX input.  IMHO, it's not worth it.  The factory h/u isn't that great, and adding shit to it only gives you another audio source.  Unless it's truly integrated in the h/u, it's a waste.  That's why I knew I didn't need a navi.  I didn't want to waste the money on a feature that wouldn't provide all the features I wanted, yet I would feel bad about getting rid of because it was so expensive.  IMHO, the factory navi is good enough for people that think the factory radio is good enough.  If it's not, I strongly recommend an all aftermarket system.

[Asim]

Anyone have a schematic of the pinout for the connector for Navigation equipped accords?

I want to make sure my y-cable wires match up to OEM so that I don't kill anything

[Asim]

If running multiple amps is it best to run a common ground using a distribution block and then from there to chassis?

Or should an individual ground per amp be used instead?

[timot_one]

If running multiple amps is it best to run a common ground using a distribution block and then from there to chassis?

Or should an individual ground per amp be used instead?

It is common practice to run ground from all amps to a distribution block, and then to a common ground.  That is how my system is set up.  Having multiple grounds can create a voltage differential and can cause ground loops.

[SuB-CoNsCiOuS]

This hasn't been asked yet so I'll post it here instead of my thread in the audio Section.  I have a 10" sub in a ported box, and an alpine Mono amp.  I will be hooking this up to the factory deck using a LOC.

My question is, how do I make sure the amp does not stay on all the time?  I know there is a wire or something I need to run so that the amp shuts off.  Don't I have to splice into one of the factory wires?

[Mike]

It may help if you provide the model of the LOC your using as different apllications may handle this differently.

[SuB-CoNsCiOuS]

Alright.  Well I haven't bought one yet but I might just go with a generic one such as:

http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-SLC4-Spea ... B000BFL52Q

[Mike]

I believe that modle that you have linked to requires a signal from a factory amplifier which i'm pretty sure our accords don't have also please remember you get what you pay for.

[timot_one]

Honestly, it depends on the amp that you're using.  Hell, you could use certain Alpine mono subwoofer amps with speaker level inputs instead of using a LOC.  As far as the remote turn on, if your amp does not have an auto sensing turn on, you will need to tap a wire in your OEM harness for your remote turn on.  I would recommend that you tap the 12v wire on one of your cigarette lighter plugs.

[SuB-CoNsCiOuS]

I know, I'm just tight on funds and want to pick up a generic line output converter (emphasizing "for now").  Can you recommend a generic LOC (one that requires you to tap into the rear speakers to get a signal)?

Thanks for the replies guys!  Sorry for the lack of info.

If it helps, the amp is an Alpine MRP-M350.  Here's the link:

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500MRPM350 ... _and_specs

So, it has speaker level inputs.  I read somewhere that using speaker level inputs on an amp significantly deteriorates the sound quality.  Will using a LOC be better than using the speaker level inputs?

[NWINNIE34]

question....

so on the back of my cd player i have an AUX output.... i bought the box that connects to this AUX output allowing me to run both XM radio as well as a red and white RCA (i run my rca's to a male connector for my ipod nano)
sorta like this
http://www.google.com/products/catalog? ... sa=title#p

when i make a hard left... or accelerate hard
my ipod cuts out for a few seconds and once i complete the turn or let off the gas it crackles back into the music

i thought this just a loose connection so i popped out my cd player...checked all my connections... checked my AUX box where my red and white RCA's plug into... everything seems good.

do you think this is getting heavy interference from the other wires going to my amp?

left side of car = power wire with 60amp fuse (i think)
right side of car = remote turn on + RCAs to amp

not sure if i dealing with just a faulty wire, or what
this ONLY happens when im using the ipod in AUX mode.... so im thinking there might be interference of some sort...
what do you guys think?

try getting another rca to male connection?
faulty box?

pain in the ass.... so annoying for yur music to cut out while making turns

[CrackerTeg]

So, it has speaker level inputs.  I read somewhere that using speaker level inputs on an amp significantly deteriorates the sound quality.  Will using a LOC be better than using the speaker level inputs?

I've only heard that with regards to mids and highs. Since you're planning on running a couple of subs, I wouldn't worry about it. If you do plan on keeping your OEM HU, think about going with a unit like the JL Clean Sweep. There's been talks about it in this very thread. If you want to upgrade your HU, then the world is your oyster.

[SuB-CoNsCiOuS]

I do want to upgrade my HU... though due to recent events I'll have to push that plan further into the future.  I've looked into the CleanSweep and the AudioControl LC6.  They're pretty pricey for my situation.  I just want a generic LOC for the time being.  I want to test it out and see if I like it (for now)... if it sucks I'll rip it all out until I get an Alpine in-dash touch screen. LOL