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Author Topic: Door Switch not working  (Read 14909 times)
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timot_one
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« Reply #15 on: February 19, 2012, 04:27:39 PM »

I've been a bit busy with work for the past few days. I'll see if I can search the wiring diagrams I have before I go out of town. If not, I'll bring them with me. I'll have nothing better to do at night when I'm not working.
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Tim
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« Reply #16 on: February 19, 2012, 05:20:19 PM »

No worries, thanks man! Also, if you happen to have digital copies, shoot me a copy and I'll try my eyes at reading diagrams lol
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timot_one
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« Reply #17 on: February 19, 2012, 10:43:22 PM »

Sam, I'm not saying this to insult you.  You will not be able to follow these circuit diagrams.  It takes me a long time to follow them, and I know a little bit about wiring.  Actually, they're a bitch to to read.  I also only have physical copies of these wiring diagrams.  All of my digital copies are for other cars like the CL9, DC5 and EP3.
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Tim
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« Reply #18 on: February 19, 2012, 10:48:46 PM »

Sam, I'm not saying this to insult you.  You will not be able to follow these circuit diagrams.  It takes me a long time to follow them, and I know a little bit about wiring.  Actually, they're a bitch to to read.  I also only have physical copies of these wiring diagrams.  All of my digital copies are for other cars like the CL9, DC5 and EP3.
no worries man, note the lol at the end of my previous post. although I was pretty good at circuits in college physics, i'm guessing those have nothing on these lol
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timot_one
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« Reply #19 on: February 19, 2012, 11:01:04 PM »

The circuit diagrams that I used when I was taking my MECP classes were nothing compared to the Honda diagrams.  The hard part that I have with these wiring diagrams is that they span across multiple pages to follow one circuit.
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Tim
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« Reply #20 on: February 19, 2012, 11:54:32 PM »

The hard part that I have with these wiring diagrams is that they span across multiple pages to follow one circuit.

Damn!
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Sam -|- 2006 I4 Sedan SE
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« Reply #21 on: February 20, 2012, 09:28:46 AM »

Truth. I absolutely hate reading those damn things but it's a necessary evil sometimes.
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« Reply #22 on: February 20, 2012, 06:39:05 PM »

So from looking at the TSX wiring diagram you emailed me, on Page 43, listed as "page 61" each door looks to actually have it's own fuse for the switch. I know it won't be the same for the accord, but I'm hoping it's similar in the fact that there will simply be a fuse I can replace and not have to pay $100 to the stealership! I'm going to try to take a look at the under hood fuse box and see if there is anything regarding doors in there. Does anyone know what the abbreviations for the first four fuses (top left) are in this picture:

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« Reply #23 on: February 20, 2012, 07:32:45 PM »

Does anyone know what the abbreviations for the first four fuses (top left) are in this picture:
IGP = (PGM-FI ECU) (ECM/PCM)
P/W RR-L = Driver's Side Rear Power Window
P/W RR-R = Passenger Side Rear Power Window
P/W AS = Passenger Side Front Power Window
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« Reply #24 on: February 27, 2012, 11:02:33 AM »

I attempted to try to wire check of the door switch again, this time flipping the LED both ways...but this yielded nothing. Also, checked the underhood fusebox and found nothing there either.
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Sam -|- 2006 I4 Sedan SE
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« Reply #25 on: February 27, 2012, 11:33:39 AM »

Sorry I haven't had a chance to help you yet Sam.  I've been crazy busy.  I was only home for 1 day last week.  I just got back last night, so I should have a chance to try and read through the wiring diagrams this week.
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Tim
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« Reply #26 on: February 27, 2012, 12:30:53 PM »

No worries man, I appreciate all the help! I try to give it a once over every couple of days, but I have honestly just ran out of ideas.

I definitely want to fix this (gf didn't close the door all the way and I was still able to lock the car, luckily I noticed before walking away, preventing a chance for theft), but again...$100 from the dealership just seems steep for this fix.
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« Reply #27 on: February 27, 2012, 01:22:30 PM »

$100 from the stealership just seems steep for this fix.
Fixed.
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« Reply #28 on: February 27, 2012, 01:22:54 PM »

Honestly this sounds exactly like my problem I even had sparks fly out of the socket for the LED (oops!) trying to find the cause and it didn't hurt anything.

Have you tried buying a switch and trying it yet? It's cheap and I'm sure it would fix your problem. If you don't want to buy a switch just take off the passenger one and plug it into the drivers connector and see if it works, if it does you need a switch.
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« Reply #29 on: February 27, 2012, 01:40:34 PM »

Honestly this sounds exactly like my problem I even had sparks fly out of the socket for the LED (oops!) trying to find the cause and it didn't hurt anything.

Have you tried buying a switch and trying it yet? It's cheap and I'm sure it would fix your problem. If you don't want to buy a switch just take off the passenger one and plug it into the drivers connector and see if it works, if it does you need a switch.

Ya I bought and received another one the other day, but figured if the wire trick doesn't work then what's the point. Upon further inspection, I can see the switch itself has no fuses, resistors, or anything that can short...it's a open/close switch in the most simple of terms. With that said, I did spend the money to buy a switch so I might as well say fuck it, and just try it out. Will report on results tonight!

edit: will post results tomorrow, it's raining here
« Last Edit: February 27, 2012, 08:12:51 PM by mnkyman » Logged

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