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Author Topic: HID Kelvin vs Luminosity  (Read 5618 times)
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« on: February 04, 2011, 02:27:38 AM »

A little edjumacation for the newbs here: lighting is measured in lumens. The brighter a light, the higher the lumens. For example:

Color temperature ('K') vs brightness...It is a common misconception that higher color temperatures (K’s) produce brighter lights. This is not true. The color temperature only determines the color but not the brightness of the HID light. The Color Temperature is simply a scale represented by the Kelvin Temperature Chart (hence the abbreviation “K” or “K’s”) as decpited above that measures the color of the light output. Typically, the higher the color temperature, the closer you get to achieving bluish to purplish light colours.

also

The higher the Kelvin, the less light output you get (lumens).
With that said, anything over 6000K is basically a waste.
So, what is the best bulb? IMO the 4300K is the best, as it has the highest light output. The problem, though, is that they have a yellow-ish tinge to them that some people find un-attractive. In that case, 5000-6000k is a better choice for you..... as they have a more blue look to them.

A colorful chart:


A little more info:

And a comparison of Kelvin to lumens;
Standard OEM halogen 55W 9006(HB4) = 1100lm (lumens)

4300k D2S Philips = 3200lm (lumens)
4300k D2R Philips = 2800lm (lumens)
4300k D2S Philips = 2400lm (lumens) actually 5800k
4300k D2R Philips = 2000lm (lumens) actually 5800k
4800k D4S/R (brand) = 3800 (lumens) ** brightest in the market
5800k D4S/R (brand) = 3300 (lumens)
7000k D2S other = 1790lm (lumens) *(other bulb brand)
7000k D2R other = 1390lm (lumens) *(other bulb brand)
8000k D2S other = 1180lm (lumens) *(other bulb brand)
8000k D2R other = 780lm (lumens) *(other bulb brand)

Higher than 8000k, the light output significantly drops off, causing the light to be almost useless.

One should point out that although light output drops off after 8000k, the fact that the light is in the blue-purple spectrum, it still puts a major strain on the eyes of others.

I got this info from a few different sources so I can't take the credit for it. This is just scratching the surface but serves its purpose. HIDPlanet has tons of information and its great education for those that are new to the HID game or completely oblivious to the fact that their PnP kits are crap. Comments are welcome.
« Last Edit: February 04, 2011, 11:32:06 AM by timot_one » Logged

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« Reply #1 on: February 04, 2011, 08:15:28 AM »

here is more info on bulbs and bulb temps

Quote from: PedroDaGr8;296214
About this thread: The goal of this       thread is to       provide a convenient location to research ANYTHING you can think       of about HID       bulbs. Everything will be discussed from comparing the different       bulb types to       their construction to the differences between OEM and kit bulbs.       The first       section deals with the various OEM bulbs. If you do not care about       this, skip       on down to the next section to learn more about the bulbs       themselves.
     
     What are the different OEM bulbs and       how are they       different?
     
     Philips Bulbs
     Model: 85122
     Color Temp: 4300K
     Output: 3200 Lumens
     Details:  Philips       standard bulb. It starts at 4300K but after around 100hrs or so it       color shifts       (turns bluer) to around 5000K.
     
     Image Copyright 2009 CateraMV6 (Used with       permission)
     
     Model: 85122 +
     Color Temp: 4300K
     Output: 3400 Lumens
     Details:  Starts       at 4300K just like the 85122, but STAYS at 4300K and does not       color shift. This       bulb remains yellower than a color shifted bulb. Note: some ebay       sellers       mention Limited Edition bulbs or that 85122+ are 5000K. BOTH of       these       statements are lies. First, there is NO LE bulb. Second, as I       mentioned these       bulbs start at 4300K and stay there.
     
     Image Copyright 2009 rondy_ (Used with       permission)
     
     Both the 85122+ and 85122 are similar in       brightness. There       is a difference of around 200lumens max between the two, which is       not a       noticeable difference. So the choice of bulb should be based more       on which       color you prefer. Older adults tend to prefer yellower colors,       while younger       adults tend to prefer bluer colors.
     
     Model: 85122 CM
     Color Temp: 5000K
     Output: 3100 Lumens
     Details:  A       bulb designed to allow a person to replace a single burnt out bulb       and match       the color of already color shifted bulbs. So it starts and stays       at 5000K
     
     Model: 85122 CX
     Color Temp: 5000K
     Output: 3100 Lumens
     Details:  This       bulb is also known as the Philips Crystal Vision. It is the       highest color       temperature Philips makes that is DOT approved. This bulb is       considered the       replacement for the 85122CM. As they now have a bulb that doesn't       color shift,       denoting one a color match makes little marketing sense. It is       unknown if there       are any differences between 85122CM and 85122CX. The bulb is       denoted by its       light blue ceramic return wire.
     
     Image Copyright 2009 D1S (Used with permission)
     
     Model: 85122 LL
     Color Temp: 4300K
     Output: Not Available (Believed to be       3200 Lumens)
     Details:  This       is a long life bulb, it is the stock bulb for the Lexus LS430.
     
     Image Copyright 2009 emoshun (Used with       permission)
     
     Model: 85122 SX
     Color Temp: 5700K
     Output: Not Available
     Details:  This       bulb is a rare bulb by Philips intended for the Japanese Domestic       Market ONLY.       The bulb states on the base Not Intended for use in Europe/USA. It       has a 5700K       color temperature, slightly lower than the 85122WX. Note the       reddish brown       salts, as opposed to the yellow salts found in lower color       temperature bulbs.
     
     Image Copyright 2009 SM_SNIPER (Used with       permission)
     
     Model: 85122 UB
     Color Temp: 6000K (4300K on road)
     Output: Not Available
     Details:  This       is called the Philips Ultra Blue. There is some controversy about       the color       temperature of this bulb. Most list it as 6000K but the literature       list that as       the color of the side bands, the bulb itself is likely not 6000K       as it has yellow       salts (indicative of a lower color temperature). The blue bands on       the sides of       the bulb cause the bulb to appear REALLY blue from the sides,       while not       sacrificing light output in the center. It has a blue return wire,       similar to       the CX and WX models.
     
     Image Copyright 2009 alexopth1512 (Used with       permission)
     
     Model: 85122 WX (aka Ultinon)
     Color Temp: 6000K
     Output: 2400 Lumens
     Details:  This       Philips 6000K bulb. It does colorshift to a bluer color. Its       characteristic       features are the dark blue almost purple ceramic return wire and       they bright       reddish brown salts.
     
     Model: 85122 YX (Ultinon 3000K)
     Color Temp: 3000K
     Output: Not Available
     Details:  This       is Philips 3000K bulb, it has a yellow return wire and yellow       glass.
     
     Model: 85123
     Color Temp: 4800K
     Output: 2800 Lumens
     Details:  A       4800K bulb that was common in the late 90s early 200Os. It was       found in a few       German luxury vehicles. I don't think it is made anymore.
     
     Image Copyright 2009 CateraMV6 (Used with       permission)
     
     Model: 85126
     Color Temp: 4300K
     Output: 3200 Lumens
     Details:  This       bulb is the D2R version of the D2S 85122 bulb. You will find       similar offerings       to the 85122 series, with the suffixes (i.e +, WX, etc.) meaning       the same       thing.
     
     Model: 85126 +
     Color Temp: 4300K
     Output: 3400 Lumens
     Details:  This       is the D2R version of the 85122+ bulb. Just like the 85122+, it       starts at       around 4300K color temperature and does not color-shift during its       useful life.
     
     Image Copyright 2009 SM_SNIPER (Used with       permission)
     
     Model: DL35
     Color Temp: 3900K
     Output: 3600 Lumens
     Details:  An       alternate 35W bulb made by Philips. Not approved for automotive       use, instead       being intended for indoor use.  It has a       color temp of 3900K and produces 3600 lumens. Has a similar       construction to the       DL50, including the "fat-boy" tube structure. It has a smaller arc       chamber than the DL50 though.
     
     Image Copyright 2009 CateraMV6 (Used with       permission)
     
     Model: DL50
     Color Temp: 3900K
     Output: 5800 Lumens
     Details:  Philips       true 50W bulb. Not approved for automotive use, but works great       with a 50W       ballast.  The original generation of DL50       has the "fat-boy" tube structure as seen below.
     
     Image Copyright 2009 CateraMV6 (Used with       permission)
     
     Model: DL50/740
     Color Temp: 3900K
     Output: 5300 Lumens
     Details:  The       newer generation of the DL50, it no longer has the "fat-boy" tube       structure, instead having the same tube structure as the regular       85122 bulbs.
     
     A quick note about 50W bulbs. Gearbox did a       test of light       output and thermal temperature of bulbs with a 50W ballast. He       tested the       supposed 50W bulb that came with the kit, an 85122 (a 35W bulb)       and a DL50. The       50W kit bulb ran hotter than the 85122 or the DL50. This means       more than likely       the supposed 50W kit bulb was actually a cheap 35W kit bulb.
     
     
     GE Bulbs
     Model: Xensation 53500
     Color Temp: 4200K
     Output: 3100 Lumens
     Details:  One       of the few bulbs produced by GE, a manufacturer who is trying to       enter the OEM       market. This bulb is their OEM D2S bulb which has a 4200K color       temperature.
     
     Model: Xensation 53510
     Color Temp: 4000K
     Output: 2800 Lumens
     Details: The       D2R version       of the Xensation 53500. It also has a 4200K color temperature and       is designed       for OEM use.
     
     Model: Blue Xensation 53550
     Color Temp: 5100K
     Output: 2800 Lumens
     Details:  This       bulb is also known as the GE Xensation 53550 Blue. It is a 5100K       bulb with deep       reddish salts. It is not approved for use on public roads in       Europe/USA due to       its blue color.
     
     Image Copyright 2009 SM_SNIPER (Used with       permission)
     
     Model: Super Blue Xensation 53560
     Color Temp: 9000K
     Output: 2300 Lumens
     Details:  Another       bulb from GE, this one has a 9000K       color temperature, the highest color temperature available from       any of the OEM       manufactuers. As with most high color temperature bulbs it has       deep reddish       salts. This bulb is also known as the GE Xensation 53560 Super       Blue. It is not       approved for use on public roads in Europe/USA due to its blue       color.
     
     Model: Blue Xensation 53570
     Color Temp: 5100K
     Output: 2800 Lumens
     Details:  This       bulb is also known as the GE Xensation 53570 Blue. It is a 5100K       bulb with deep       reddish salts. It is not approved for use on public roads in       Europe/USA due to       its blue color. It is the D2R version of the Xensation 52550 D2S       bulb.
     
     Model: Super Blue Xensation 53580
     Color Temp: 9000K
     Output: 2300 Lumens
     Details: GE Super Blue Xensation       53580 -       Another bulb from GE, this one has a 9000K color temperature, the       highest color       temperature available from any of the OEM manufactuers. This bulb       is also known       as the GE Xensation 53580 Super Blue. It is not approved for use       on public       roads in Europe/USA due to its blue color. It is the D2R version       of the Xensation       52560 D2S bulb.
     
     
     Koito Bulbs
     Model: Koito D2S
     Color Temp: Not Available (Believed to       be 4100K-4300K)
     Output: Not Available
     Details:  While       Koito as a maker of OEM components, it is likely they licensed       this from one of       the Big 3 OEM HID bulb makers (Philips, GE or OSRAM). Very little       is known       about this bulb or its origins. As it is OEM it is likely       4100-4300K in color.
     
     Image Copyright 2009 SM_SNIPER (Used with       permission)
     
     
     Panasonic(Matsushita)       Bulbs
     Model: Panasonic D2S
     Color Temp: Not Available (Believed to       be       4100K-4300K)
     Output: Not Available
     Details: Panasonic D2S - Similar       to the       unknown Koito D2S bulb, Panasonic likely licensed this bulb from       one of the Big       3 OEM HID bulb makers (Philips, GE or OSRAM). Panasonic is a       subsidiary of       Matsushita, hence the [M] on the bulb. Very little is known about       this bulb       (though I have heard rumors that Philips makes the bulbs for       Panasonic). Just       as with the Koito, it is likely 4100-4300K in color.
     
     Image Copyright 2009 SM_SNIPER (Used with       permission)
     
     OSRAM/Sylvania       Bulbs
     Model: Xenarc 66040
     Color Temp: 4300K
     Output: 3200 Lumens
     Details:  According to       data I have found, this bulb is 4300K with an output of 3210       lumens. Osrams       often take a pinkish hue when they color-shift. Giving the bulb a       different       look than the Philips bulbs.
     
     Image Copyright 2009 CateraMV6 (Used with       permission)
     
     Model: Xenarc 66240
     Color Temp: 4300K
     Output: 3200 Lumens
     Details:  It       appears this bulb is 4300K with an output of 3200 lumens. This       bulb is a new       generation replacement for the Xenarc 66040. It is unknown what if       any       functional differences exist between the two. Though structurally,       the newer       bulb now has the metal base support structure and no longer has       the white cap       over the base. Osrams often take a pinkish hue when they       color-shift. Giving       the bulb a different look than the Philips bulbs.
     
     Image Copyright 2009 SM_SNIPER (Used with       permission)
     
     Model: Xenstar 62301
     Color Temp: 5400K
     Output: Not Available
     Details:  This bulb is       one of the few legal 5400K bulbs (essentially a pure white color).       Sylvania       included these bulbs with their x1010 driving/fog lamps before       they were       discontinued. These bulbs are also repackaged by PIAA as 6000k       bulbs. They have       less red salt than Philips Ultinons, hence the 5400K instead of       6000K color       temperature.
     
     Note: If you have pictures of any of the       bulbs that lack       pictures above or know of bulb models not listed above, please let       me know.
     
     Why are OEM bulbs better than kit       bulbs?
     There are multiple reasons that OEM bulbs are       better than       kit bulbs. The first is that OEM bulbs run cooler than kit bulbs       (read above       for the test that showed it).
     
     This is due to the amount and mix of salts. HID       bulbs use expensive       transition metal iodide salts. The OEM manufacturers have spent       countless       dollars developing precise salt mixtures that run the coolest and       produce the       most light. These mixture formulas are closely a closely guarded       trade secret.       Along with this, these salts can be VERY VERY expensive in high       purities. So       kit makers tend to scrimp on the amount of salts making the bulb       run even       hotter. This evident by the fact of when you look in the arc       chamber in kit       bulbs it looks virtually clear while in OEM bulbs there is a       noticable yellow       (or in the case of Ultinons and bright reddish brown) salt       deposit.
     
     The second is quality control. The OEM       manufacturers test       each bulb before it leaves the factory. The bulbs are tested for       arc chamber       shape, arc chamber position, light color, light intensity, etc.       Kit bulbs often       are not tested at all. It is not uncommon to have arc chambers       that are not in       the tightly specified location or are not the proper shape. This       results in       weird looking cut-offs, decreased intensity etc. Also, it is not       uncommon to       get a pair of 6000K kit bulbs that are either more blue (closer to       8000K or       1000K) or more yellow than 6000K. Sometimes, with horrible QC a       pair of       supposedly matched bulbs, in fact are not, with one bulb being       more yellow or       blue than the other.
     
     The third reason, which is explained in more       detail later,       is that kit bulbs tend to use pure tungsten electrodes while OEM       bulbs use       thoriated tungsten electrodes. For why this is important, see the       section       What are the electrodes in HID bulbs made out of?
     

     Salts: Myths and Questions
     Myth: The amount of salts denotes the age of       the       bulb.
     This is partially false. The amount of salt       does not really       change with one caveat. The volume does increase slightly due to       the sputtering       of the electrodes, but it is not really that noticable. More       importantly, the       salts will turn more gray overtime as the metal from the       electrodes is       sputtered into the mixture of salts.
     
     Myth: Visible Salts are a bad thing.
     Competely FALSE. The salts are what actually       produce the       light in the bulb. Less salts mean a bulb that runs hotter.
     
     Myth: Changing the salts prevents color       shifting.
     This is completely false. The blue you see in       color shifting       is the same blue you see at start-up. It is due to a type of light       emission       around the tips of the electrodes. By changing the shape or make       of the       electrode, you can design a bulb that will not turn bluer as the       electrode is       sputtered and deformed or where the blue emission is in a location       where the       projector will not pick it up.
     
     Why are there salts in a bulb?
     The salts actually produce the light in the       bulb. When the       bulb first fires, it fires at around 25kV. This is required to       start the arc.       At first, the blue you see is from a type of emission around the       two       electrodes. As the arc continues the temperature in the arc       chamber rises,       vaporizing the salts. These vaporized salts are then ionized by       the arc into a       plasma. This plasma is what emits light. It also serves to allow       the required       arc voltage to drop to around 84V.
     
     What are some of the salts used in HID       bulbs
     
     Common Salts and their colors for HID
     Sodium Iodide - White
     Thallium Iodide - yellow crystals that become       red at 170oC
     Scandium Iodide - yellow powder
     Dysprosium Iodide - deep yellow powder
     Indium Iodide - deep red-brown color
     Mercury Iodide - Yellow
     The last one may or may not be added, but it       may form due to       the presence of iodide from the other salts.
     
     More rare salts:
     Cerium Iodide-Yellow
     Neodymium Iodide - Green
     Holmium Iodide - yellow
     Erbium Iodide - Pink
     Thulium Iodide - Yellow
     Gadolinium Iodide - yellow
     Ytterbium Iodide - yellow
     
     Which are the most common salts?
     The main salts in 4300K bulbs are Scandium       Iodide and Sodium       Iodide, Dysprosium Iodide is also added to some bulbs. While in       higher       temperature bulbs, more Indium Iodide is used. This is what gives       the salts in       those bulbs their red color. It also is really expensive and       hazardous to use,       which is what gives them their cost.
     
     The exact mixture of salts is unknown, as each       company has       its own proprietary formula. Trace salts can be added to flesh out       the spectrum       some, improving CRI.
     
     
     Why do all ballasts run AC       current?
     Some early bulbs ran DC current, but they       suffered from       short bulb life. This is because, in DC one electrode is       constantly bombarded       by high speed positive ions. This results in a noticeable       shortening and       deforming of the electrode. Over time, this erodes away the       electrode to the       point that it fails. By running AC, the high-speed ions, hit both       electrodes,       essentially doubling the life of the bulb. Another benefit is that       the       electrodes, run a little cooler using AC because the anode and       cathode change       about 400X per second compared to DC where 1 is always anode and       the other       always cathode (shared heat 2 electrodes vs 1). Also, I seem to       recall some       discussion on AC arcs are easier to maintain than DC arcs. Maybe       someone can clarify       this for me.
     
     What is color shifting?
     Color shifting is when a bulb, once fully       warmed up,       transitions to a bluer color temperature. This is due to the       deformation of the       electrodes that occurs as time goes on. To understand this, one       must understand       that near the electrodes, a region of plasma glows deep blue. As       the electrodes       are deformed, this region grows larger and contributes more to the       color of the       bulb. Bulbs that do no color shift have modified electrodes to       prevent this deformation.       Another tactic is to make it so that the blue area around the       electrodes is not       in an area that the projector can "see". This helps to minimize       its       effect as well.
     
     Note: Color shifting should not be confused       with the bright       blue color at warm up. While this blue color DOES come from the       same regions,       it occurs before the salts vaporize, when IT is one of the       ONLY sources       of light. Once the salts vaporize, this is suppressed and the       light transitions       to its proper color temperature.
     
     
     Why are there TWO glass tubes on a       bulb.
     If you look at a bulb, you will notice the arc       chamber is       surrounded in glass, while there is a second glass tube covering       the whole       bulb. The reason is the two glasses do two different things. The       inner glass is       a type of glass that can handle the high temperatures and       pressures generated       by the arc, while letting light out. The outer glass acts as a UV       filter to       remove the large amounts of UV radiation produced my HID bulbs.       This is why you       should NEVER operate a bulb that has a cracked or missing outer       glass cover.       The UV radiation is so intense it can blind you and/or give you a       horrible burn       (equivalent to a sunburn, but can be as bad as 2nd and 3rd       degree).
     
     
     How long to D2S bulbs last?
     Unlike halogen bulbs, which typically die when       the filament       snaps, HID bulbs have very few methods of mechanical failure. This       results in       bulbs can last an excessively long time (thousands and thousands       of hours), but       as time goes on the output of the bulb decreases. According to       some spec       sheets, at around 1500 hrs of use, an HID bulb is only emitting       around 75% of       its brightness. So assuming linear lifespan (which is likely not a       valid       assumption, but for clarities sake we will assume it is), at       around 3000 hrs,       the bulb is at 50% brightness. This means, a bulb may still be       working long       after its luminous output has fallen below that of a halogen bulb.
     
     What are the electrodes in HID bulbs       made out       of?
     In OEM bulbs the electrodes are made out of       thoriated       tungsten. Thoriated tungsten electrodes were introduced       approximately fifty       years ago as an alternative to the use of pure tungsten       electrodes. Thoriated       means that the electrodes contain 1-2% (by weight) of Thorium       dioxide (ThO2).       Thorium dioxide is added to the tungsten to promote electrode       life, which helps       the bulb last longer. The added thorium dioxide also promotes a       more stable arc       than an electrode made of pure tungsten. Aftermarket bulbs on the       other hand       often use the cheaper tungsten electrodes. This is another reason       for the       reduced life and less than desirable luminescent properties found       in       aftermarket bulbs.
     
     If anyone has anything else to add to this,       please let me       know.
     
     Also, if anyone has pictures of said bulbs I       would LOVE to       add those. Even if it is mainly of the base showing the model       number. I will       host them on my own server, unless you prefer to host them       yourself. I just ask       that even if you post them you give me unlimited permission to use       them       STRICTLY in this post and no where else. That way in the future,       even if your       server dies I can rehost them elsewhere. Basically, what I am       saying is, I want       permission to rehost them if the need should arise. Nothing more       nothing less,       not wanting ownership of them or anything like that. You will be       credited with       supplying the pictures etc. and ownership and copyright etc. will       be noted as       belonging to you and fully retained by you.
     
     
     
     
     Thanks for additions, information and       corrections:       D1S, Oculus, emoshun, dorkiedoode and alexopth1512
     Picture Thanks: alexopth1512, emoshun,       rondy_,       SM_SNIPER, D1S and CateraMV6
Organizational Thanks: AlternativeSurfer who has REALLY helped copy edit this Discussion and compiled the lumen information for the bulbs!

 



D4 bulbs require D4 type ballasts, will not work with d2 or d1 type ballasts
42402 Philips D4S 4800K 3200lm (Hg free)pure white, 42V.

42402 V269 Philips D4S 5800K 3300lm (Hg free), snow white 42V.

42406 Philips D4R 4800K 3800lm (Hg free), pure white 42V.


66040 Osram D2S 4150K 3200lm, DOT approved, yellow-white Xenark

66043 Osram D1S 4150K 3200lm, DOT approved, yellow-white Xenark
elektronic 35W

66050 Osram D2R 4150K 3200lm, DOT approved, yellow-white Xenark.

66053 Osram D1R 4150K 3200lm, DOT approved, yellow-white Xenarc electronik 35W


85122 Philips D2S 4100K 3200lm, DOT approved, yellow-white.

85122+ Philips D2S 4300K, DOT approved, yellow-white, white with tint of yellow (usualy what you find in projectors of todays acura, infinity and many others)

85122WX Philips D2S 5800K Ultinon 2400lm pure blue violet white.

85123 Philips D2S 4900K color reminds color of Ultinon, pure white, without yellow ( most likely specially for BMW)

85126, same as 85122, but D2R

85126+, same as 85122+, but D2R

85407 Philips D1S, built in starter, rest same as 85122.

85407+ Philips D1S, built in starter, rest same as 85122+

85408 Philips D1R, built in starter, rest same as 85122

85408+ Philips D1R, built in starter, rest same as 85122+
« Last Edit: February 04, 2011, 12:16:38 PM by AV6NHBP6SPD » Logged

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« Reply #2 on: February 04, 2011, 11:44:28 AM »

Changed the thread title so it's more informative.  Another thing I'd also like to add to the information that you've posted is that the 4300k-5000k range is more of a sweet spot.  The higher you go in color temperature the closer you get to ultraviolet light and the lower you go in color temperature the closer you get to infrared light, both beyond our field of vision.

FYI, you have to have an account on HID planet to view the forum.
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« Reply #3 on: February 04, 2011, 12:15:36 PM »

oh ok. ill just quote it from there then
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« Reply #4 on: February 04, 2011, 10:17:35 PM »

Could you clean it up a little so it's not so hard to read?
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« Reply #5 on: February 05, 2011, 07:35:54 AM »

Thanks for the thread retitling Tim. I figured it was about time someone created a thread regarding all the "my 8000k HIDs are hella bright dawg!" posts. I was going for a bit of humor with the title but this one works as well. Hopefully, some of our newer members read this thread and learn.
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« Reply #6 on: February 05, 2011, 09:16:45 AM »

That doesn't seem to be the trend. 
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« Reply #7 on: February 05, 2011, 01:10:46 PM »

Unfortunately. Hopefully they see the "light" and come to their senses much like many of us have.
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« Reply #8 on: February 05, 2011, 04:16:50 PM »

ppl who get 8k are going for look and not light output
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« Reply #9 on: February 06, 2011, 12:24:22 AM »

Where's my Captain Obvious smiley when I need it?  Cheesy

On that note, the problem with the look, the light output sucks balls compared to halogen. You know that Misha but I was just stating that for the newbs/ ricer crowd as there are a few that browse this forum. Mostly as guests though.
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« Reply #10 on: May 16, 2012, 06:52:50 PM »

After reading a lot on hid kits and how stock reflectors are designed for halogen bulbs, i have removed my 6k hids and put the up for sale. Although i really enjoy the extra visibility they gave me, i had a bad experience the other day the other day that pushed me away from the dark side.(plus i'd rather keep a lower profile on the road..and cars with non-oem hids are just a target for cops)
 I hate driving in front of cars with hids and never really realized...or cared that i was doing the same. I have found the Light and Just felt the need to speak my mind...
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« Reply #11 on: May 16, 2012, 09:49:55 PM »

That's what we're here for.
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« Reply #12 on: May 16, 2012, 11:46:57 PM »

After reading a lot on hid kits and how stock reflectors are designed for halogen bulbs, i have removed my 6k hids and put the up for sale. Although i really enjoy the extra visibility they gave me, i had a bad experience the other day the other day that pushed me away from the dark side.(plus i'd rather keep a lower profile on the road..and cars with non-oem hids are just a target for cops)
 I hate driving in front of cars with hids and never really realized...or cared that i was doing the same. I have found the Light and Just felt the need to speak my mind..

I think you're one of the first people that I've seen that hasn't convinced themselves that HID kits aren't dangerous because they have one.  Props to you for doing the right thing.  Hopefully you have the opportunity to get a good retrofit one day so you have great lighting performance and do it safely.
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I would like to comment that I've noticed the quality of our community going downhill as well.  There is too much room for people to just "hang out" and not contribute anything constructive to our site.  I see way too much immature dick/fart joke bullshitting in the forums.  In the past the members of this community were here to talk about cars and off-topic stuff second. I feel this priority has flip-flopped.
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« Reply #13 on: May 17, 2012, 08:10:06 AM »

After reading a lot on hid kits and how stock reflectors are designed for halogen bulbs, i have removed my 6k hids and put the up for sale. Although i really enjoy the extra visibility they gave me, i had a bad experience the other day the other day that pushed me away from the dark side.(plus i'd rather keep a lower profile on the road..and cars with non-oem hids are just a target for cops)
 I hate driving in front of cars with hids and never really realized...or cared that i was doing the same. I have found the Light and Just felt the need to speak my mind...

For that, my friend, you get positive rep.
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« Reply #14 on: May 17, 2012, 10:32:47 AM »

That only counts if you GIVE him positive rep.
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