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Author Topic: How To: Rear Drum To Disc Conversion  (Read 48454 times)
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timot_one
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« Reply #15 on: October 14, 2010, 12:02:26 AM »

I moved pictures around in my photobucket account, so it broke the links.  They should be fixed now though.
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« Reply #16 on: October 14, 2010, 12:49:52 AM »

Thanks for updating the pics Timot_One
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timot_one
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« Reply #17 on: October 14, 2010, 01:29:07 AM »

No problem.
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Tim
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« Reply #18 on: May 16, 2011, 10:01:06 PM »

When talking to my mechanic today about doing a project like this (because I saw him doing a rear conversion on a Jeep last week) and mentioning that on the Accord, you'd need to install the proportioning valve from the EX (according to Tim), my mechanic mentioned that you can get in-line type proportioning valves for each rear brake line that may be cheaper than getting an upgraded one for the EX.  He said companies like Baer or other cheap, aftermarket Autozone-type companies (I know, I know) might make some.  Thoughts here?
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timot_one
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« Reply #19 on: May 16, 2011, 10:57:55 PM »

The proportioning valve for the EX is only $21 from Majestic.  I highly doubt any aftermarket proportioning valve would be as good.  I'm not sure how an inline proportioning valve would work either.  A proportioning valve basically distributes the proper amount of pressure to the front and rear brakes.  I guarantee an aftermarket one is more expensive, and that it's going to have to be adjusted properly.  Why not just buy the $21 part and bolt it in?
« Last Edit: May 19, 2011, 07:08:39 AM by timot_one » Logged

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« Reply #20 on: May 18, 2011, 01:11:17 AM »

I only had gotten vague details about the idea, but figured I'd just present it as another option should someone need it... if it even exists.  I'd just get the $21 oem part too since it's so cheap and straight-forward.  Sawy.
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« Reply #21 on: May 18, 2011, 02:29:46 PM »

The mechanic that told you that, probably didn't realize the cost of the OEM part compared to an aftermarket replacement.  Realistically, it's not a practical solution. 
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Tim
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« Reply #22 on: May 19, 2011, 12:54:27 AM »

The mechanic that told you that, probably didn't realize the cost of the OEM part compared to an aftermarket replacement.

Yeh I realize that now.  He's still a good guy though cuz he's helped me out a lot.
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« Reply #23 on: January 17, 2012, 08:45:29 PM »

I'll need a parts list with part numbers for this project... very soon...
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timot_one
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« Reply #24 on: January 17, 2012, 11:10:51 PM »

This is pretty much a complete parts list of what you need if you buy everything brand new.  I'd suggest buying the knuckle and caliper assemblies complete from a junk yard.  I'd buy the parking brake cables, brake lines, rotors and pads new.

52210-SDC-A60
52215-SDC-A60
43018-SDA-A00
43019-SDA-A00
42200-SDA-A51 x2
42326-SLJ-000 x2
42510-SDA-A00 x2
43253-SDA-A51
43254-SDA-A51
90103-SV4-013 x4
90305-S30-003 x2
93600-06014-0H x4
95701-06012-08 x6
47510-SDA-A52
47560-SDA-A52
46470-S5T-E01
01466-SDA-A50
01468-SDA-A50
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Tim
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« Reply #25 on: January 19, 2012, 02:29:44 AM »

^ Thanks for the parts list Tim.  Do we have a complete how-to anywhere showing the e-brake cables swap?  Also, what are some rotor and caliper options that can be used here, or is there only one (oem calipers and Pilot rotors)?
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« Reply #26 on: January 19, 2012, 09:13:29 PM »

If you want bigger rotors, you can buy the bracket from Paul and Pilot rotors.  Other than that, there are only aftermarket options, which are expensive.
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Tim
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« Reply #27 on: January 20, 2012, 03:03:09 AM »

If you want bigger rotors, you can buy the bracket from Paul and Pilot rotors.  Other than that, there are only aftermarket options, which are expensive.

Damn.  From your list, it looks like you went the custom bracket from Paul/Pilot rotors route.  But you can't just use the rotors from the EX?  Also, e-brake cables swap how-to?
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« Reply #28 on: January 20, 2012, 07:43:13 AM »

Yes, I did go with Paul's bracket and Pilot rotors, reusing the OEM calipers.  You can of course use OEM rotors without Paul's bracket.

The parking brake cable swap is fairly simple.  What you need to do is remove the cable at the drum and work your way forward.  There are a few brackets that hold the cables to the chassis that you'll need to unbolt.  There is a rubber grommet where the cables pass through into the cabin that can be a pain to remove.  You need to remove the center console/armrest to get access to where the cables attach to the parking brake handle.  It's really not that big of a deal to replace the parking brake cables.
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« Reply #29 on: January 21, 2012, 08:01:48 PM »

OK.  The biggest pita if I do the e-brake cables will probably be removing the center console since my beefy, aftermarket Momo e-brake handle will make it hard to get out.  Maybe I can get in from the back access panel somehow.
« Last Edit: January 23, 2012, 12:18:08 PM by striktlyaccord » Logged

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