HID Conversion Kit

[sherker55]

"Mind Bottling"

I am getting it little by little though as I read and learn more, thanks for the input and patience!

[CrackerTeg]

I didn't realize you had to be a registered member to view. Must be because I am a member. Anyway, I'll see if I can get some of the info and post it here so you can see what I was referring to Mark.

[sherker55]

word

[cna]

What do you guys think of this, you will need to select Accord, and bulb number

http://www.vvme.com/page.html?chapter=5&id=49

i have had there kits they very good quality i used to buy all my kits from them untill i found ddm tuning which i would recommend snice you cant beat there prices

[CrackerTeg]

Here's the OP from the first thread I linked for all you non members:

For peoples read my posts before, you will know I like the G3 PnP Projector kit crazy, not because of it has outstanding performance, but for it's simple installation with acceptable performance. And now we got another PnP projector kit "Mini-H1", so I decided to do a comparison between them. Keep in mind this just my personal opinion, so take it by your own judgement.

Packaging. Winner: G3.
The G3 is pretty much a retail package, in a good looking color box with molded container for protecting the projectors and other contents.
On the other hand, the mini-H1 is more like retrofit parts come from factory. Depends on where you brought your set from, it may be packaged well with bubble wrap and foam or not so good (means up to the seller).

Package Content. Winner: G3
The G3 kit come with almost everything you needed, Projector with Shroud integrated, CCFL Angel eyes, Bulbs, Relay harness, Wiring hardware. From certain seller, it may even come with the glue for sealing the headlight.
For the Mini-H1, again, it just the bare projector itself, but the seller (at least the one I brought from) will be able bundle what you need (at additional price), as long as you asked for. The G3 win in this for no need to use your brain to think about what you need.

Supported reflector. Tie
The G3 kit support H7, 9006/9005, and H4 type of reflector. They used to support also 9004/9007 and H13, but due to low demand, the manufacturer no long produce those, unless someone place a huge order. However, there are member confirmed that the H7 version of G3 can be fit into 9004/9007 relfector without any modification.
While the mini-H1 projector is designed for H7 reflector, it can be fit into 9006 without problem, and according to the supplier, it should come with a H4 adapter plate (although it is missing from my package, but the seller told me they will send it back to me) to allow the projector installed to H4 reflector. Since the locking mechanism is pretty similar to the G3, so I would say it should also be able to locked into the 9004/9007, like the G3.

Projector size. Winner: mini-H1
The mini-H1 is smaller, and most important, a little bit shorter in depth, when compare with the G3. This will allow the mini-H1 more chance to fit into a headlight. However, Keep in mind that make sure you counted also the size of the shroud, unless you want to go shroud-less......

Depth. This is the depth you needed between the reflector and the front headlight lens. mini-H1 is about 0.2" shorter.

Width. Keep in mind G3 width is with the shroud, but mini-H1 is without.

Height. Again. keep in mind G3 height is with the shroud, but mini-H1 is without.


Weight. Winner: mini-H1
G3 (H4 version, with lens, solenoid, shield, shroud, CCFL angel eye) is 12 oz. The H4 version is a bit larger than the other version of G3, and should be a little bit heavier.

Mini H1 (with lens, solenoid, shield) is 8 3/4 oz. FYI, E46-R shield + 90mm CCFL is 1 1/2 oz, so with similar config, mini H1 is about 10 1/4 oz, still 1 3/4 oz lighter than the H4 version G3.

As it just bolt to the bulb hole, I think lighter is better, so winner goes to mini H1.

Lens. Tie
Both G3 and mini-H1 come with clear 2.5" lens.

Bulb. Winner: Mini-H1 (for H4 user, G3 is the winner)
G3 projector use special based bulb, which is only available from the seller. The only exception is the H4 verison of G3, while it also use a non-standard bulb, the form factor for the bulb is same as regular D2S bulb, and those can be used in the H4 version of G3 projector (with a minor cut on the bulb base if you want to pass the solenoid/angel eyes wire like the H4 G3 bulb does).
The mini-H1 projector use normal PnP H1 HID bulb which you can found at any people selling PnP kit, which give the mini-H1 a huge plus on this category, the only exception is for H4 application, which G3 win for the possibility to use regular D2S bulb.

Shrouds style. Winner: Mini-H1
While it didn't look bad at all (IMO), the shrouds on G3 is integrated to the projector, which you can't change. It is possible to overlay other shrouds on top of that, but it will take some additional work, and shouldn't be take into account for this comparison category.
The mini-H1 projector is, well, just a regular projector. You can choose whatever shrouds you want as long as it fit.

Cutoff. Winner: Mini-H1
The stock G3 come with a slope cutoff, which IMO is ugly. It did come with pretty nice blue band. The shield can be modded to step cutoff, but that's an extra effort and shouldn't count.
The mini-H1 come with a step cutoff with curved shield, which also giving out nice blue band. The good result without mod make mini-H1 the winner in this category.

Wiring. Winner: G3
As mentioned, G3 kit come with relay harness, which is PnP for most of the part. A potted controller is on the harness handling hi/lo beam switching, and powering the angel eyes. For H4 version, the only thing you need to do will be get the power for the angel eyes from somewhere. For H1 and 9006 version, either you tap the hi and lo beam wire directly to the OEM harness, or put 9005/6 plugs on the harness and then PnP.
For the mini-H1, you need to prepare all the wiring yourself. The projector only come with two short solenoid wire.

Availability. Tie
At the beginning, G3 is only available from China vendor directly, but as of now, it is more widely available, which can be found on ebay and a famous site which selling retrofit parts.
The mini-H1 is currently available from China, and it's North America distributor, another famous site for selling retrofit parts. I do think those projector will shown up on ebay a bit later too.

Ease of installation. Winner: G3
While the installation of the projector is pretty similar between G3 and mini-H1, with everything provided and PnP, G3 give you a truely PnP solution without any thinking/cutting.
For the mini-H1, people will need to figure out what he want, trim the shroud (depends on which shroud you choose and the size/shape of your relfector), and build the harness.

Light Performance. Winner: mini-H1
It just my own opinion, please refer to JVX's comparison to judge yourself. but I will bet everyone will say mini-H1 is the winner.

Bi-Xenon Output Comparison
Asian-Made G1/G3 Bixenon Projectors
Mini H1 vs. Oem FX with Clear Lens
Mini H1 vs. Oem TL with Clear Lens

Price. Winner: G3
A member reported that the G3 is price at $170 shipped (include the kit and a pair of ballasts) in ebay, and I do read from other forum that a famous site which selling retrofit parts has some discount price at about $210 on that forum (includes the kit, ballasts, and the 7-color back fire LED option).
I got my mini-H1 from another famous site at $145 shipped (includes projector and shrouds), and another memebr reported that he paid $180 for the projector, shrouds, bulbs, angel eyes, from the same place.
To compare the price, I compare the ebay price for the G3 kit w/ballasts ($170), and the price for the similar config of mini-H1 ($180) + a pair of PnP ballasts (around $30) + bi-xenon relay harness (around $30), so that winner goes to G3.

Summary
I think the performance for the mini-H1 is better, and the possibility to buy replacement bulb easily is also a big plus. The flexibility of selecting the right shroud style fit your needs is also a good thing. But those good things come at the expense of more complicated retrofit process, like selecting the right components, involves shroud cutting, and wiring. So, I think it really depends on how involving you want to get into the retrofit process, if you just want ok performance and want to work as little as possible, G3 still a good choice. But if you are willing to put a bit more effort to get outstanding performace, mini-H1 will be the winner.

[CrackerTeg]

Here's the second thread I linked to showing output shots. The guy that took these photos is the "go to guy" when it comes to projector output shots as he takes every single picture with almost the exact same settings.

Here's a comparison test between an Oem Philips 35W ballast and an after-market 50W ballast. Per request from forum members, I will be using a mini H1 projector for this test. The mini H1 uses a 5000k 35W Morimoto asian-made bulb. The bulb has to be shaved to get the optimun output. Light wasn't distributed correctly. Further, the projector has to be modified to fix the off-center hot spot. I also moved the shield down by 1mm to get more reserve light.      

While I was at it, I also performed the same test using my non-afs modded RX330 projector. The RX330 uses a 4300k 35W Oem Philips D2S 85122+. It uses the same 35W Philips ballast and the same after-market 50W ballast.  

Anyway, keeping similar environment from my other comparison, car is parked 30ft from wall. Pictures are taken with Nikon D60 with manual mode settings, ISO800, F8.0, and shutter speed 1/4.  Pictures taken on a partly cloudy night with no moonlight.


Mini H1 with 35W Ballast - Distant Shot Showing Entire Beam


Mini H1 with 50W Ballast - Distant Shot Showing Entire Beam



Mini H1 with 35W Ballast - Closeup


Mini H1 with 50W Ballast - Closeup



Mini H1 with 35W Ballast - Closer


Mini H1 with 50W Ballast - Closer



Same test using non-AFS RX330 Projector

Modded RX330 with 35 Ballast


Modded RX330 with 50 Ballast



Modded RX330 with 35 Ballast


Modded RX330 with 50 Ballast



While I am at it, I did the same comparison test at a different environment. This area is a little darker. Car is parked 40ft from wall. Pictures are taken with manual settings ISO800, F6.3, and Speed 1/4 sec and at 1/8 sec to lower the exposure.

Mini H1 with 35W Ballast - 1/4 Sec


Mini H1 with 50W Ballast - 1/4 Sec



Mini H1 with 35W Ballast - 1/8 Sec


Mini H1 with 50W Ballast - 1/8 Sec



Here's the same test done on non-AFS RX330

Modded RX330 with 35 Ballast - 1/4 Sec


Modded RX330 with 50 Ballast - 1/4 Sec



Modded RX330 with 35 Ballast - 1/8 Sec


Modded RX330 with 50 Ballast - 1/8 Sec


The 50 ballast does improve intensity in output. In person, I can see the difference, but I wouldn't say big different. I wouldn't say twice as intense. Then again, my eyes might adjust to the brightness. The projectors feel hotter to the touch.

All credit for comparisons go to members StupidPig and JVX from Hidplanet.

[sherker55]

I think the Mini H1 with 50W Ballast looks like the best visibility

good shit Z, thanks for following through with that

[CrackerTeg]

I said I would didn't I?

[sherker55]

I wasn't questioning your word

[CrackerTeg]

You'd better not be fucker!

[CrackerTeg]

Well, since we're on the topic of HID PnP kits, what do you guys think I should put in my high beam spot of e46 retro 3.0? Stick with the silverstar ultras I had in the smoked housings or throw my PnP kit in to go along with the bixenon feature of my projectors?

[timot_one]

If you want my opinion, I'd recommend that you use a PnP kit in your high beam reflector to work in unison with the bi-xenon projectors.  That will give you the best high beam output.

[CrackerTeg]

I figured you'd say that. My only thing with that is the flash to pass feature. That's probably what hasme on the fence with doing it.

[timot_one]

Meh.  9005 bulbs are like $15.  I've had mine in for a few years now and they're still fine.  I'm conscious of the fact that they are HID bulbs and shouldn't be "flashed", but I'm also conscious of the fact that it will cost me about $15 to replace them if they are damaged because of my "flashing".

[Mike]

How much better is the light output if using these for high beams? I don't have the time to do a complete retro but, it would be nice to have some increased lighting for night driving.