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Author Topic: OEM Navi Upgrade  (Read 11570 times)
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MyNameIsThien
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« on: February 06, 2009, 10:35:21 PM »

hey guys... i have successfully installed stock navi in my 07 non stock LXV6 accord.....
i bought 03 brand new navi with codes on ebay and installed that...
total project cost me $1700...

It took me long time to install it becuase i had to rewire my whole heating system harness because i have LX and i dont have dual climate control...
everything works except the "auto button becuase LX doesnt have the outside, cabin and sunlight sensor....

its very easy to install stock navi in EX model because it already has dual climate control....

My car looks soo much better now... and accord makes awesome navigation system...

i didnt not install the voice commad system because i didnt have the parts.

i Made a harness for 03 to 07 accord and it up for sale in FOR Sale fourms...
if you interested... please look at it.. i have upload pics too...
its $300+shipping..

open dasboard:



more dashboard:



RE-Wired heating harness





Navi harness


audio and Aux harness


Ipod hook-up


Installed Navi








Finally everything closed upp



Information was transfered from Gen7Accord.com.
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« Reply #1 on: February 09, 2009, 12:36:17 PM »

Very nice write up!
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Blackhawk
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« Reply #2 on: February 21, 2009, 04:14:47 PM »

I need to do this upgrade in my future. Scott made a great writeup on V6P as well but I am not sure if he ever posted it on Gen7. It's definitely one hell of a project!
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« Reply #3 on: February 23, 2009, 08:19:23 PM »

how difficult is the harness to make? this would be a sweet upgrade!
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« Reply #4 on: March 11, 2009, 10:41:48 PM »

I have successfully converted my 04 EX Coupe that did not have navigation, to have the OEM navigation system. Without the wiring harness that Oasis475 makes, this install would be extremely difficult, however with his custom harness, it is easy. Follow his direction (assuming you have an EX) and the install is stupidly simple. The only part that is not there is the mic/talkback system.

I learned a lot from reading his original post, so I will post some of the similar information here, as well as some details he probably left off.

First, what you need to know when looking for parts for your install. If you car has XM and you want to continue to use it, I would suggest getting a navigation unit from an 04-07, if you don't care, then you can go with the 03 model. Not that the XM would not work, just the sub-display would not show it correctly if my research is correct.

I would highly recommend not mixing and matching parts. Try to get all the parts from the same year car, especially with the 03 model parts. the 03 sub-display is designed only to work with an 03 head unit, same as the 04-07 sub display as it was not designed to work with the 03 head unit. Basically, make sure your sub-display matches the same year head unit you get.

Please make sure that if you are getting a used head unit, that you know if it came from a Sedan or Coupe. Sedan's have green interior lights, Coupe's have red. You need to ask this question unless you really want Christmas light color scheme inside your car.

You need the following parts to complete this install:
Main Navigation Head Unit (make sure it come with all clips, or you will have to buy some.)
DVD Drive/Trunk Navigation Unit with mounting brackets
Navigation DVD
GPS receiver/antenna
Sub Display
Wire harness from navigation to sub-display (also provided by Oasis)
Upper Dash (make sure to get the right year model)
Hazard button with ABS light (if you have an 03 car and are putting in 04+ parts)
Window temp sensor if you lost or broke your original one

That is the easy part, now the more difficult part is to wire this thing up. If you contact Oasis475, you can get his harness for about $300. It is worth the money (at least for me) to make this very easy. It is very professionally done, all the wires are wrapped and it has factory connectors, plus everything is crimped and plug and play with the exception of 9 wires. It also includes the needed sub-display connection as well.

Those 9 wires (6 to the audio harness and 3 to the ECU) splice easily into place. 2 of the wires already have factory pins and just have to be inserted into the factory wire harness connector at positions 12 and 13. They click right into place. His directions are so easy to follow. The other 4 that go to the audio harness split into positive constant, positive acc, ground and Illumination. The cables they splice into are very easy to find. green/white, yellow/red, red/black, black.

The other 3 go into the ECU on the VSS, H chan and L chan. Which are blue/white, red and white colored cables.

I would highly recommend a couple of things. Solder all your wire splices. Make sure they are electrical taped well. The section of wires you are working with is very short, so even with removing the factory tape, you want to give yourself some extra space to work and by soldering the connections, you can make sure they hold up long term.

Once you have spliced these cables, the rest just plug into the unit as they all have factory connectors. You have to run the cable to the trunk to match up with the DVD unit and it takes upwards of 10 minutes for the unit to initially go through it's setup.

After that, now you just need to learn how the system works. I am more then happy to answer any questions, but please understand that I did not create my own wiring and without the wire harness I got from Oasis, no way I would have even attempted this.

I do have one picture with the unit going through it's initial setup and another with the dash ripped apart. I will get you before and after pictures once everything is all finished up.





$1200 for the entire navigation setup (ebay)
$330 for the wiring harness

$1530 total. Not only very worth it to me, but I will be purchasing one of the AV Electronics AV kits to run video through the nav screen as well, so it will be used as a tv/dvd/camera screen too.

Some additional information I believe I figured out. Not 100% certain on this, but from all my digging, it seems to be accurate:
2003 Navi head unit had the button labeled CD/AUX
2004 Navi head unit had the button labeled CD/SAT
2005 Navi head unit had the button labeled CD/AUX - with the XM logo on the actual button
2006-2007 Navi head unit has a silver bezel instead of black
Navi from a coupe has red illumination lights
Navi from a sedan has green illumination lights

Pulling the side panels and rear deck is the biggest royal pain. You have to remove so much crap to get these things out and then putting things back is a pain. Only have to do this once as it is just not fun at all. Ultimately, I am very happy that things are run and installed the right way, but damn it sucked.

Make sure that you take your time. I am not sure how the heck this happen, but I noticed this morning that I had a big dent on the corner of the dash in the middle, it took a heat gun and a little patience to slowly work the dent out and flatten/shape things back. It came out pretty good, but nevertheless I should have never had to spend so much time trying to get this put back right. Live and learn I guess.

Once things are put back together and working, the Honda navigation unit is just simply awesome. I cannot wait to to the next stage of this which is to run the AV inputs so I can watch inputs (DVD, TV, and Camera) using the OEM screen.

The wiring harness that Oasis makes, needs to be about 1 foot longer, just to give a little extra room to tuck the harness through the car. Now had I gone down the drivers side of the car, it would have been probably perfect, but the way my other wiring is setup, this made it difficult to do it this way, so I had to go down the passenger side. I cannot fault Oasis for that, but was one challenge that I ran into. It is not perfect and perhaps one day I will rerun the cable the other direction, seeing as I don't have to take the back top deck lid off again to do it, but for now, I think I will stick with how it is.

Okay, so here is the official step by step for installing the OEM navigation in a 04 Accord Coupe EX that did not originally come with it. The first few steps are documented all over this website and the internet, with full on pictures.

1.) Remove the stock shifter and shifter plate/bezel. Mine was an automatic, so there are two screws that hold the automatic select lever onto the shaft and it pulls right up. Slightly pull up around the shifter plate/bezel and detach the two heated seat connectors on either side and the entire thing should come up. Set these aside for now.

2.) Once this is removed, open up the (this is not an ashtray) and pull out the rubber piece that rests inside. It is held in by double sided tape, so just pull up. Once that is out, the piece that this sits in underneath is clipped into place. Get a small screwdriver or I would recommend a plastic putty knife and wedge it underneath this part and pry upwards. Underneath this you will find two screws that you need a philips head screwdriver for. Remove these two screws and the entire assembly will lift out. Underneath you will need to disconnect the 12v socket adapter.

3.) Once this piece is out, depending on what you have in the middle, will dictate what you do next. If you have a cubby, you will find two additional screws that hold this unit into place. Remove these screws, pull the door slightly downward and slowly and careful (to prevent scratching your dash) pull the cubby downward and outward. If you have an aftermarket bezel kit, you are on your own. If you have the Honda bezel kit. it clips into place at the top and there are two screws at the bottom. Once this front bezel is removed, you can disconnect and remove whatever components you have (i.e.after market radio, dvd player, mp3 player, etc.) Once this is all remove and the bottom part of the center dash is out, you do not have to remove the rest of the brackets and support as they should not be in your way.

4.) Now lets move to the center top part of the dash, up by where your hazard button is. If you have a dash removal screwdriver, (not sure its official name) it will make this easier. It basically looks like a wide, angled flat head screwdriver that has a U shape cut out in the middle. This will make getting both the factory clips loosened as well as sliding this into one of the AC vents to help pull outward the top part of the dash. I will attach a picture below so you can see what I am talking about.

5.) Once you have removed the top part of the dash, you will want to disconnect the hazard/ABS light, as well as the temp sensor that is toward the front of the car. Make sure not to break or damage either of these cables, otherwise you will need to get them fixed for the temp sensor to work or to avoid having your ABS light on the dash on and complications from your ABS system. This can be set off to the side, but you will need to gentle remove your hazard/ABS switch out of the dash piece, as well as the temp sensor as you will need them during reassembly.

6.) Once you have this top piece out, now you will need to start removing the stock radio. There are three screws that run across the top, plus two more screws that hold it in at the bottom. Plus those annoying factory honda clips all around the unit. Once you remove the these screws, with a little patience and gentle pulling forward, the entire unit will come out. The screws at the bottom are silver in color and they can be found perpendicularly screwed into the bottom of the chassis of the radio. You will want to look for two sliding rails that have a screw running through them to the chassis. This will all make sense what you are looking. Obviously make sure to hold onto these screws as you will need them all later.

7.) As you start to remove the head unit, you will need to disconnect the radio harness and carefully unclip all the wiring from the chassis. Eventually you will wind up with (On an EX model) four cables that you remove. The two green connectors, one with a light blue connector and the antenna. Once these are disconnected, the stock radio/HVAC unit should be free to come completely out of the car. One thing to remember, eject and CD's you might have had inside the unit before removing it.

8.) Now that this unit is out, time to start working on the wiring for the navigation unit. This process is quite ridiculous if you do not have the pre-made wiring harness that Oasis475 makes. With the harness, very easy. The way his harness works is as follows:

- There is already a sub display connector, you just need to run this under the dash from the center middle to the center top. Secure it with a couple of zip ties to the other wiring harness, leaving enough slack to be able to connect everything when you are doing the reassembly.



- Now looking at your stock wiring harness the antenna cable and two green connector cables will plug directly back into the navi unit (again, I have an EX, no idea what to tell you if you have an LX).

- The wiring harness that Oasis makes has a black connector (these are all clearly labeled), this will plug into the center top of the back of the navi unit that will then run all the way to the trunk for the DVD/navgation driver.



- If you have XM or an after market device (i.e. USAspec, Soundgate, etc.) it will plug into the white connector on the back of the navi unit.

- Lastly, you will have a light blue connector, this is the stock radio connector and where all the fun begins. You need to carefully unwrap this cable from all the tape that the factory wraps around it. You will want to have at least several inches of wiring showing as you are going to splice into four of these wires. I accidentally cut a couple of these wires when doing this, but luckily I was able to solder everything back together to have a strong connection. The four wires that you are going to connect are already labeled for you by Oasis, however they are:

- White Green (pin# 10) is going to get connected with cable #1 (yellow cable)
- Yellow/Red (pin #2) is going to get connected with cable #2 (green cable)
- Black (pin #20) is going to get connected with cable #3 (black cable)
- Red/black (pin#9)  is going to get connected with cable #4 (pink/blue)



Here is a close up of the actual radio harness and the pin connections from the ETM.



- Now that you have spliced these cables, shrink wrapped them, you will need to take the two cables that are in the harness that are already nicely crimped with stock pins and slide them into the radio harness at pin locations 12 and 13. These slide and lock right into place and even thought they are labeled, it is easy to see the different as pin 12 is larger then pin 13. You can sort of see that from the picture.



- At this point you are done with the radio harness and time to move onto splicing into the ECU. To get to the ECU, on the passenger side of the car, left side kick panel, you will see a small section of the dash that is triangle shaped that has one plastic screw/clip holding into place. Removing this clip the piece comes right off and directly behind it you will see the ECU.  Obviously you should have your battery disconnected during all of this or run the risk of damaging something and most definitely if you decide not to disconnect the battery, you better have the car off. One the ECU you will want to locate the left most connector. It is gray in color and the connector you will now need to work with. On this connector there are three cables you need to splice into. Two are very easy to find (the only solid white and red cables in the harness and the last one is a blue/white cable.









- The blue white cable will connect with the VSS cable wire already labeled for you by Oasis
- The red cable will splice with the CAN L
- The white cable will splice with the CAN H

Shrink tube, electrical tape, zip tie and you are done with the wiring inside the car.

9.) Now you need to run the cable from the front to the rear of the car. I would highly recommend doing so down the drivers side to give you additional play in the cable. You will need to remove the bottom part of the dash cover, the floor board trim piece and then rear side panel in order to nicely route the harness. Don't worry, you will see where everything runs into the trunk once these pieces start to come off. You will want to lay down your back seat and remove the carpet liner to run this cable into the trunk area. I am sure you will figure it out and for now, that is the most you can do with this cable, as you now have to go through the most painful process of the navi install for a car that did not have it.

10.) Installing the actual DVD/navigation unit and GPS antenna, you can either do it the right way or fabrication another way. I do not do things half baked. What you will need to do to properly mount these is remove the following. Seeing how much time it takes and I had to pretty much figure this out on my own, you will just have to look at these pieces and slowly see how the remove. I will do my best to explain.

- With both back seats lying down, you will see a plastic trim piece that runs the entire length. I is behind the seats and not the piece that is connected to the deck lid. This just snaps around the metal of the frame of the car and has four factory plastic clips that hold it into place. Gently pull upwards and outwards and this piece will come off.

- On the left and right side you will see the pillar garnish for both sides. On the drivers side, there is a factory clip labeled with airbag on it. You will need to slowly work this clip outward until it removes. On the passenger side there is a curved edge rectangular shaped plastic cover that you can remove using a small blade screw driver and underneath it you will find a philips head screw to remove. (To make things easier then having to leave these pieces lying in the car, you can optionally remove the seat belt from under the back seat. If you decide to do this, there is one screw that holds the back seat to the frame, located on the drivers side and then two clips that you push down and then pull outward to get the bottom of the rear seat out. This will give you access to the two seat belt connectors so you can disconnect them and when taking the pillar garnish off, you can take them out of the car.)

Once you have removed these clips and screws, if you gently start to pry, the pillar garnished will just unclip from here. Just please be careful as there are airbags, wiring, antennas and defroster connectors all underneath. Once these are removed, you can start working on the center deck lid. Inside the trunk you will find four white plastic clips on each side that hold the factory speaker grills in place, if you just push these up from inside the trunk and then from inside the car you can remove them. Next, you will need to remove the third brake light. Disconnect the harness if from inside the trunk if you do not have a factory spoiler and then push the clips upward. Next, from inside the car, pull straight backward and the entire assembly should come out. One this is out, you need to remove the rear seat lock round plastic bezel and flip up the three plastic lids that cover the car seat mounting points. Slowly and carefully, the entire rear deck lid should start to come loose and can be pulled out of the car.

10.) Now that the deck lid is out, you will easily see where the dvd unit mounts as the GPS antenna mounts, go ahead and fasten them into place. Make sure at this point you connect the other end of the wiring harness to the back of the dvd/navigation unit, as well as the GPS antenna.





11.) Now put everything back that you just removed to get to under the deck lid. Yes, seriously, you just did all that work for something that took 2 minutes afterwards to complete. If you bend, break any of the clips, they are cheap to replace from your local dealership and even cheaper online from places life Majestic Honda or Cheaphondaparts.com

12.) Once you have all your trim pieces back into place and you might want to wait to do this until you have tested the system out, you now want to test your system out. Pull your car out of the garage if in there, as the GPS needs a clear view to the sky for it's initial setup. Go ahead and start up the car and everything should power on. Your navigation head unit should start to say downloading new data (hopefully you have the DVD inside the drive). Once it gets done downloading new data, it will come up with the security code screen. You will need to enter your four digit code and then you will get a display that shows that it will take upwards of 10 minutes for it to detect the GPS signal and set things up for you. Do not move the car, do not turn the car off, but you can go onto setting up the rest of the unit. Before you get to this point you will want to make sure you have already connected the new top center part of the dash with the sub display. You are going to need this to set the radio code. On the head unit, hit the power button and on the sub display you should see the word CODE. Using the right dial on the head unit, turn to the right numbers clicking the button to enter each digit and when done your radio should be working. Please note that the head unit code is a different four digital code then the dvd drive unit. You can go ahead and program all your stations, sound levels, put in CD's. You can even program some of the navigation settings like your home address, pin number and delete any of the old entries that were still left in the unit. Hopefully by this point your system has detected the GPS signal and you can start putting the rest of your car back together.

13.) Once you feel confident that everything is up and running, put things back together, dust everything down, get out your favorite dash protectant, cleans things up and enjoy. I would highly recommend checking out the other thread on this board and others that go into detail some of the cool things you can do now that you have the navigation installed. If you have any questions, let me know.

BEFORE:


AFTER














So like I said, the next project after the navi was complete, was going to be the tvandnav2go box. (BTW, the 2009 year navi disk is out and I am waiting for it to arrive). Anyway, this converter box allows you to use the navigation screen in your car as a video monitor for two different video sources. You have to choose wisely as the video sources are controlled and displayed based on how you have things wired up. I will explain more below.

First, the box comes with two video inputs (Video 1, Video 2), along with a bypass RGB cable, toggle switch and a wire for power. Let's get down and dirty how this all installs.

1.) You need to mount the unit somehow. I just used some 3M double sided tape and a couple of zip ties to secure it directly underneath the main DVD navi unit in the trunk, afterwards doing a little cable management.

2.) You connect the bypass cable directly into the back of the DVD navigation unit (it will only fit into one connector) and then the connector you pull off the back of the drive, would plug into the female connector on the tvnav unit.

3.) Next there is a power cable and ground cable. Leave the ground cable along for now. The power cable you can either run it all the way into the car to tap into the cigarette lighter 12v or even easier, tap into the red/yellow wire of the smaller plug on the back of the navi drive. That is the switched 12v power connector. (for those of you who have Oasis475 harness where you converted non-Nav to Nav, splice into the orange wire (or the second wire from the left on the top row of the connector

4.) Now you will have a bunch more wires that you will need to deal with.
- The black ground wire that is coming off the RGB cable
- Two white wires
- A green wire
- A blue wire
- The black ground wire that is coming off the power cable

Here is what you can do. The legal thing to do would be to connect the green cable into your handbrake, so this system would only work when the handbrake is pulled and the car was in park. But if you just simply ground this cable, you don't have to do that. Ultimately you will wind up with FIVE cables that are all ground. Two white, a green, two black. I spliced them all together as one single ground cable with a butt connector on the end, extended them outward so I could tuck the cable away nicely and ran them to the stock ground post on the left side of the trunk, behind the trunk liner.

5.) What is left is now a blue wire and then a toggle switch. I cut the toggle switch, made a long extension, bought a different type of toggle and ran this under my dash, nice and stealth so you cannot see if from the cabin. Still very easy to get to. It is mounted in the drivers side under dash, foot panel.

All this switch does is for video input 1, toggle between displaying the navigation screen or whatever video input you have going to video 1.

Now for the blue switch, this is designed primarily for a reverse backup camera. Anytime the blue wire has 12v applied to it, the navigation unit will only display what video is being pushed into the video 2 port. It overrides the toggle switch and the navigation unit. So by design, if you were to splice the blue wire into your reverse lights, any then connect a backup camera to video 2, anytime you would put the car into reverse, it would automatically change the video on your navigation screen to the backup camera signal or whatever signal was going through video 2. Hopefully that makes sense.

SO...I did not buy this unit for a DVD drive (normally would plug into video 1), I bought it for a front mounted camera. So I am using video one for the front mounted camera. Eventually I will add a reverse camera and install as mentioned above. BUT, what if you want to use a front mounted camera AND a DVD drive. There is still a way to do that.

Even though if the blue wire received 12v it will override all the other settings, what you can do is install the DVD video drive into video 1 and your front mounted camera into video 2 and then trick your system. Basically hook up the blue wire to a 12v connected and put a switch in the middle. So you would wind up with two toggle switches. One that would toggle between the navigation and video 1 and another that would toggle the entire unit.

So if switch one was up, you would get navi, down you would get video 1 and if switch was on you would get video 2 or off you could use the other switch to decide what signal you see. I am sorry no pictures, but I hope this all makes sense.

http://www.tvandnav2go.com/ for more information.
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wtcii
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« Reply #5 on: May 19, 2009, 06:09:15 PM »

I going to do this this summer. Does someone make the harness for the climate control for an LX?
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Bill C.
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« Reply #6 on: May 19, 2009, 10:11:30 PM »

I'm pretty sure there's a guy over on driveaccord or v6p that makes them.  It shouldn't be too hard to do if you have the parts and know what you're doing.  I could pull it off with the right parts and enough time.
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« Reply #7 on: May 20, 2009, 09:54:32 AM »

Just after reading the DIY a few times, it seems pretty hard. What Harness did Scott need? He has an EX. I was under the impression that if you had an EX it was pretty much plug and play, and if you had the LX you need the HVAC harness then it was plug and play. I am thinking about just doing something like an Aftermarket h/u with navigation.
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« Reply #8 on: May 20, 2009, 02:31:16 PM »

Well, not all EX's come with dual climate originally, but Scott's did.  If you have a single climate h/u, then you will need to convert your harness to dual climate.
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« Reply #9 on: May 21, 2009, 10:39:33 PM »

The harness I needed was more then just for the climate control. I already have an EX with dual climate control, if I didn't, it would have required just that much more work. The harness was for a couple of things. The cables that run from the back of the HU to the rear DVD drive, the cables needed for power, ground, plus I had to tap into the ECU for the VSS, etc. It is all listed in my post. It is not a fun thing to do, but not impossible either, obviously.
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« Reply #10 on: October 22, 2009, 09:29:06 PM »

I just rehosted the pics in the OP. Too bad Scott took his down otherwise I would have rehosted his as well. I'm considering doing this upgrade sometime in the future and wanted to save the pics before they got lost forever. Lately though, I've been finding the parts needed for cheap on the bay.
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« Reply #11 on: December 17, 2009, 04:20:11 PM »

Do sedans and coupes use the same vent/clock piece or are they different?
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« Reply #12 on: December 17, 2009, 11:25:28 PM »

i want this done so bad...
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gargantula99
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« Reply #13 on: February 10, 2011, 03:34:13 PM »

Does anybody know if Units are swappable?  For example, I want to take my head nav unit out of my car and replace it with another unit from another car.  Are there any vin number issues that I should be aware of?  The other unit has a newer version of the maps dvd installed and no scratches.

Thanks!
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CrazyCreashunz
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« Reply #14 on: February 10, 2011, 05:15:17 PM »

Does anybody know if Units are swappable?  For example, I want to take my head nav unit out of my car and replace it with another unit from another car.  Are there any vin number issues that I should be aware of?  The other unit has a newer version of the maps dvd installed and no scratches.

Thanks!

They are dude, just make sure to get the radio and navi codes from the new unit or else your fu*ked! <--- could be wrong!
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