Haven't posted in a while...  

I put this aux converter and USB DAC in a few months ago. Lets me plug a single USB cable into my S3 and will charge the phone while outputting purely digital audio. This setup gets rid of any and all electrical/alternator noise which is a problem I had using the headphone jack. Helps improve audio quality as well since the audio is processed on the DAC box instead of the phone. The headphone wire on the aux converter broke after about a month of use, so I soldered some RCAs to the converter box.






I also found a wrecked 4dr at picknpull and was able to jank a few parts! I took out the overhead console and wired it to work with the doors and have the ambient light. I took the upper dash piece too and will be modding an old smartphone into it for a dash cam






Been thinking a lot about what I want to do to the car and this is what I have come up with:
Sound deaden rear deck and trunk
Speaker amp
Tablet dash install (would like to form into a broken stock headunit)
Leather front seats


$$$$

Really, I'd just like to find a wrecked 5spd EXL coupe for cheap and be able to take parts from it... We'll see.

Looking to do this on mine before I get tint put on. I'm going to try and find some of this felt locally in a craft store.

Thanks for the DIY!

Door speaks are in.





Much more definition in the audio over the stock speakers. System still needs muchos work though. I have a really weird resonance causing bass in the 30-40 Hz range to be rather boomy and annoying. It wasn't like that in the CB so I imagine its has to do with how the bass is hitting the trunk and resonating through the car. It's likely something which could be eliminated with sound deadening and a good tuning.

I didn't put bass blockers on the front as the infinity's seem to be able to handle the signal a little better and not distort as bad as the stocks with bass.

 

80 Hz is a good crossover point for the front speakers actually. You'll have more midbass up front, which will fool your brain to localizing the bass in front of you instead of behind you. The higher you have your subwoofer crossover set, the easier it will be to localize where the bass is coming from.

What eq were you considering Mike? I've found that most eq's are a waste of money unless you get a sweepable fully parametric eq. Even then, you won't be able to tune it properly if you don't have a RTSA like an AudioControl SA-3051.

Wellllll, I was just going to pick up a cheap 7 band Clarion. (don't laugh, I don't have much funds to put into stuff) It also acts as a pre-amp will allow me to hook an Aux "directly" to the amps, bypassing the stock H/U completely. About that spectrum analyzer... maybe if I owned a shop or had the money for perfection. 

Does the defrost without a/c setting allow you to disable the compressor? I'm familiar with the setting change, but not as familiar with how it affects the a/c system/compressor. If this disables the compressor (disengages the compressor clutch), it means that you defrost/defogger is also disabled.

Yulp, allows me to turn the compressor on and off at will. I like this better because I can leave it on the windshield/feet setting and if I need defrosting action, all I have to do is tap the A/C button and leave it on for a minute. Then I can shut it off when everything is clear to enjoy (slight) fuel savings and no random compressor "kick." 

Mmm, shiny. 

1. Insert key into ignition
2. Press and hold A/C and Recirculation buttuns
3. Keep holding and turn ignition to position [II]
4. Keep holding for about 10 sec, you'll notice A/C light will flash for a few seconds. Do not release untill finished flashing.
Link


Now the AC light comes on when selecting either defrost mode and the A/C can be shut off. My understanding is that normally when a defroster mode is selected, it will turn on the A/C and the button will not control the A/C. LED on or off it will be running.

I did the mod to enable A/C control when the defroster is selected.

I couldn't figure out why my A/C was running when the LED was off and I was getting pissed about it! lol. Even when I started it cold, the radiator fans would kick on which bugged the shit out of me. Then it would cycle every few min causing a droop in engine power and dimming the headlights for a second. Sure, I could have selected something other then defrost and leg vents, but that's my favorite setting for heat! I'm glad I found the fix.

Looks good! Do you have a video of the train horns? I want to hear them!

Welp, finished the sub install. It took me a bit longer then expected, but works great! I ran 4 GA knuknoceptz wire from the engine bay connected to 0 Ga "ebay" wire through the interior. Hooked to the cap then the amp. Sounds fairly good and didn't cost me a dime! Now looks is a different story... I'll get the plywood covered in carpet as soon as I can.

Definitely a good idea to keep this all in your profile thread.  200 Hz seems kind of high for front speakers though.  Wouldn't it make more sense to get 100 Hz bass blockers for the front and keep the 200 Hz ones in the rear?  You'd be asking the sub to do a lot more than it's meant to if you have it crossed over at 200 Hz with a low pass filter.

Yeah I agree they might be too much as I ran my xover at 125 hz in the other car., I haven't even taken the panels off to see what speakers are in the doors. My guess is stock, not horrible sounding though. I keep my max vol near 30 and have turned down the bass on the headunit and increased the gain on the woofer to keep some bass out of the speakers. I'll be transplanting my infinity 6.5s into the doors here soon and installing the bass blockers. I don't plan on keeping the bass blockers in forever, just until I get a speaker amp and an active crossover. Could be some time on that one, but I have mostly everything planned out.  

Welcome!  Always nice to see another member from OH, and especially Columbus.  Where about are you located in the city?  I am always looking for more CM's to roll with.

Hell yeah! I'm on the west side, south of Hilliard.

Install time!

The stock audio system in these cars just doesn't cut it for me. I needed my bass back in the music. The previous owners had installed some cheap Sony xplods in the rear deck, which they had wired out of phase. lol. The speakers provide a little more quality then what I imagine stock would be, but the low bass distortion is bad when the vol is over 30.

The solution? transplant my system from the CB7.

I have an Alpine MRP-M1000 amp and an Infinity Reference 12" in a 1cf sealed box which I began installing today. I'm keeping the head unit stock and using a LOC off of the rear speakers to run the sub. I also installed some 200Hz high-pass bass blockers on all of the speakers to remove distortion at high volume and leave the lows to the sub. They seem to work great and allow me to turn the volume up to about 34 before hearing distortion. This will be solved in the future when I can afford my speaker amp and eq setup, but for now I think some rigging will do!


Here is how I mounted the LOC and ran the wires to the rear speakers. Not super pretty, but will do for the time being. White and grey go to the speakers and purple goes to the amp.


Bass Blockers to save the rear speakers.



Also installed LED bulbs in the license plate light and door lights.






I'm 98% certain the old cabin air filter was at one time as white as the new filter... Looks like it was never replaced. Yuck!





Sub install will be finished tomorrow.

I'm likely going to post more pics and document most of my future mods in this thread, kind like keeping a log. lol. If I should be doing this elsewhere, please let me know.  

The wheels look really nice with your drop. What are they from?

Well, I never had the choice with the CB (my first car, was given to me) and I really like the look of this gen's Coupe. I'm young and don't have a huge need for back doors, so I figured why not!

Thanks B.R.03EX! I'm keeping her for my fun car. The plan is fix up the damage and use it as a weekend warrior/ autocross machine. The H22A is a very fun motor and its such a fun car to drive on F&F T1s.

Here is the damage to the CB, it was worth the $1880 to me


Shouldn't be to hard to fix, here is what it looked like when it was given to me...


and how it looks after a friend and I fixed it up.


Engine bay shot


Here is a link to my profile on CB7Tuner.com if anybody wants to see her full history.

Thanks everyone for the warm welcome!

B.R.03EX, They are morimoto H1 retros. I have had them in for about two years and redid them about a month ago while helping a friend retro his 2002 Odyssey.

More pictures you say?







Last one is the most recent retro.


Ody retro

[About Me:]

About Me:
The Nerdy Mechanic
Real Name:
Michael S.
Location:
Columbus, OH
Occupation:
Tier II IT Tech
Interests:
Cars, Computers, Electronic Design, Music, DIY

About My Car:
A new adventure in the car world for me.
Model:
2007 LX Coupe
Color:
Grey
Engine:
Four Banger
Tranny:
Autotragic

Current Mods/Future Plans:

-Currently-
-Aux harness
-Fresh coat of wax
That's it.  

-Future-
-Drum to Rotor DIY
-HPF Lip kit
-Drop it
-Wheels
-Auto to 5spd swap
-Nexus 7 tablet dash/headunit integration
-Audio system work
-Tint
-Fogs
-As much DIY as possible  


Pictures:



Next to the CB7




Le Story:

So I picked this girl up about two weeks ago, my poor CB7 was smashed by an idiot running a red light, so I figured I should put some of the insurance money to "good" use. I put a nice down payment and drove this girl home. I always liked the style of the CM coupe, and as an electronics nerd I absolutely love the 06-07 factory LED tail lights.

She will take a while to build and get to where I want her, and will never replace the all out H22A fun of my CB7, but I really do feel better driving a newer car which isn't rough as hell.