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i was looking at pulley kits, and i know more or less how they work, but i thought i better ask from experience before making a decision... I have noticed that few members just have the crank pulley, not the pulley kit (ps, alt, crank) does the kit drastically slow down the accessories (a/c, heater, altenator) what are some recommendations?

Do your homework! There are different type's some are stock diameter, and just lighter than stock(shouldn't affect accessories) Others are under drive which differ from stock, and could affect accessories.

the stock ones are usually for superchargers... i want to know how much does the pulley kit affect a/c, heater, cuz i live in Canada so i need the heater during those harsh winters! so is that the reson why people get just the crank underdrive pulley as opposed to the whole kit?

I have Unorthodox Racing under drive pulleys. They've been on my car for almost 2 years.  I called Unorthodox Racing for information about these before I purchased them and installed them.  They only under drive your components by 10%.  I have not experienced any loss in power from my alternator, no issues with my power steering, and my a/c works fine (after I replaced a bad compressor).

Ditto. Mine have been on for the last year or so.

+2 i love my UR pulleys, never had a problem at all with em

so if i was running a crazy system than i might want to get the ralco stock size kit. do the crank pulleys have any long term affects on the crank??? i noticed there is no dampener on the after markets crank pulleys

There is an article on the longevity myths and it might actually be in this subforum...read up.

Also, just to make sure you know, the V6 people are the only people here just running crank pulleys, that's because it's the only pulley available for replacement.  Most if not all kits for K series motors are underdrive.

On the topic of having a system, I was running a 2800 watt system with the stock alternator with under drive pulleys and didn't suffer any ill effects at all.

yes there is an article. I posted it. I got it from Acurazine

viewtopic.php?f=10&t=464 (http://elitecm.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=464)

Happy reading

i've got a 1000watt system, Kpro, sat radio, and a turbo, and have had 0 ill effects from the underdriven pulleys. Had them on for 3 years now (was one of the first :) ) Your headlights dim slightly when the A/C kicks in at idle (only to the eyes of someone paying attention for that kind of thing) or you use your windows. You should be fine even with the craziest system, I know Tim has one of the sickest out there.

The headlights will typically dim when the AC clutch kicks on even if you don't have a pulley kit...they don't dim if you have HID's though :)

damn tim 2800watts? that must sound pretty good, but i will probably only run a 1000watt when and if i ever get one.... i have pretty much made up my mind, and have decided to go with the UR pulley kit. thanx for clearing up all my doubts. i knew i could count on elitecm to help me make my decision....

I was running a 2800 watt system.  My current set up is 1100 watts with all the speakers on when playing 5.1 audio.  During normal use, it's about 1000 watts.  It will bump up to about 1300 watts when I get a 2nd sub.

I just ordered my UR underdrive pulleys. It's the one for the tsx/accord. Does anyone know which belt I'd have to purchase for the pulleys?

You can reuse your stock belt.

They're underdrive so wouldn't they be smaller, therefore requiring a different belt?

No, the crank pulley is smaller and the accessories are made bigger. The differences make up for eachother so you can use the stock belt size.

Ahh thankyou skippy and rustywaffle. I am expecting them in Monday. Will install them next week!

I think you can also ask UR and they can tell you the best belt to use.  I used my OEM belt with mine and didn't have any issues.  I have heard of other people using RSX Type S belts also.

does Ralco make underdrive pulleys for the i4?

all the ralco underdrive the alternator. but yeah it uses the oem belt

Ah ok. I was confused because on Ralco's website they didn't make any note of it being underdrive. I need to pick me up a set!

dude do it.... if you can get help installing thats great

def makes the car pull alot harder... esp with yur other mods
maybe pick up a new belt...cant hurt, yur belt now prolly has what 46k on it?
$25 for a new one

(http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr89/winndogg34/LOL%20Cats/proceed.jpg)

Should I just buy another OEM one, or do they make "performance" belts too?

Don't bother looking....HG will be sufficient.  The only time you need a "performance belt" is if you have a blower.

I'm at about 49k miles. Should I go ahead and change
my belt as well? Also, how will I know when to change it?

Service interval is like 80k or something horrendous like that.

get the type s belt!!!

I would inspect your current belt.  If it's in good condition, you may want to save your money and wait until it needs to be replaced to upgrade to the Type S belt.

The type a belt has a different part number than the TSX belt and I do not recommend using it.

what is the difference with say using a type s or tsx belt?

Well, here's the raw data:

Unorthodox racing makes pulley kits for the TSX and Accord, and they are magically the same part number.
The TSX and Accord accessory belt both have the same part number.
The RSX-S kit on UR's website has a different part number than the TSX/Accord kit.
The RSX-S belt has a different number than the TSX/Accord belt.

This information leads me to believe that the RSX-S belt is a different length than the TSX/Accord belt.  This would account for the different part numbers on UR's website, because the pulley kits have different dimensions.  UR would not have designed two different kits if there wasn't a reason to, therefore I believe that there are significant differences to the designs that prohibit using the type-s belt on our vehicles.  There's nothing special about a Type-S belt....they're made by the same company, in the same factories, by the same workers as the TSX/Accord belts are.  The only difference is in the size.  If you run a belt that is too tight (too small), it will wear faster and generate more wear on your tensioner assembly.  If you run a belt too loose (too big), the belt will slip and you will lose efficiency in all systems that utilize that belt, which includes an extra added whammy for us because our water pump, AC compressor, Power steering system, and Alternator run off of one belt.  You lose the belt and: your AC stops working, you lose Power steering, your battery dies, and your car overheats.

got ya.so stick with a accord/tsx belt.

Quick question: Where can I buy the crank pulley tool for my car? Would I have to buy one online, or would a local store like Autozone have it?

Auto Zone has pulley pullers you can use.

I've got pulley pullers, but I was talking about this:

(http://image.hondatuningmagazine.com/f/9787198+w750+st0/htup_0804_02_z+honda_engine_crank_pulley_nut_removal_tool.jpg)

But lo and behold, Google was on my side today. I found this: http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/tech ... index.html (http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/tech/htup_0804_honda_crank_removal_tips_and_tool/index.html)

HONDA PART #: 07MAB-PY3010A

Hopefully this will do the job.

get PB blaster ready and the tool i think someone was selling it on the F/s section might have been a while but he still might have it. Or else its like 40 bucks from napa auto. youtube honda crank pulley you should have an idea

I think it was Cole (Heckler) selling that thing awhile back. He's been inactive for a minute though.

Hey guys, I found a pretty good deal at Amazon for the crank pulley remover tool:

http://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-648796 ... 905&sr=8-3 (http://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-648796-Crankcase-Pulley-Removal/dp/B0000TMLWQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1247424905&sr=8-3)

However, I plan on renting one from my local Advance Auto Parts store. They want $99.99 to rent it, but I get a full refund back when I turn it in. So I'm just going to get my stepdad's plastic and do it that way. But for the rest of you people, I'd definitely take the Amazon deal into consideration. That's a steal for being a $60+ tool.

Hey guys I just got my pulleys installed today. I wanna make sure it was installed right so I have a question. Can anyone tell me what the centerbore is? It said the "center bore" had to be coated with anti-seize. What I'm asking is that, is the center bore the hole itself INSIDE the pulley or the area around the hole on the outside? Thanks!

nvm i searched and found the info, i'll have to go back tomorrow

So hey, simple question since you commented about your UR pulley set....how much ( guestimated) power did you think you gained? I have been eyeing them for about six months........

I wouldn't expect a huge power gain. They basically lessen the rotating mass making the engine more efficient. I'd expect less than 5HP.

Does anyone recommend getting UR pulleys? Im on the fence about them, and i need some advice with someone who has first hand experience??

Chiming in here.  I have the Ralco RZ pulleys.  I can tell you first hand, that there is a 'power gain' that you can feel mid range; mostly between 2-4k rpm.  Might be different for others (I have AT).  The gain is very noticeable even with the butt dyno.  I hesitate to say that you made power.  It's more like freeing up lost power.  The other thing to think about is that since this replaces the crank pulley (which is our harmonic dampener), your idle 'may' be a little bit more rough/bouncy.  Mine was already rough for some reason, but this just seemed to amplify it.  I had an issue with my Ralco RZ crank pulley.  Not sure if other people had it, but the inside of the pulley was rubbing up against the block (which actually shaved off some of the material).  The shop threw the crank pulley on a lathe and cut off some of the material and it ended up to be a good fit.  My thought was maybe that my crank pulley was not actually made for my accord (even though it fit perfectly).  Pictures of this at the bottom.  But overall, I highly recommend this mod for those out there questioning it.  It may not be worth the full retail price, but since I got it for cheap, it's definitely worth it. 

(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y57/beretta22789/Misc/IMG00190.jpg)
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y57/beretta22789/Misc/IMG00191.jpg)
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y57/beretta22789/Misc/IMG00193.jpg)
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y57/beretta22789/Misc/IMG00194.jpg)
The pieces of metal from my block.  Could've taken the front main seal along with it too.

Aaaaaaaaaaaaaand that's my review of my Ralco RZ under drive pulleys.

Damn, makes me wonder if that's happening to my car...

im nervous to use a lightweight crank pulley along with my 11.5lbs flywheel...can anyone comment on that

im using the ur underdrive pulleys with a rsx type s flywheel, no issues.

I had a UR on my AV6 and took it off because I thought it was causing a vibration... Ended bein the axle, but I had already sold it.  I miss it, it just seemed to run thru the gears smoother and rev slightly faster.  (mine was stock dia.)

I had the UR pulleys with the 14 lb RSX Type S flywheel, and had no issues. I have heard stories that since aftermarket pulleys don't have a damper, it will increase crank vibrations and affect your bearings. I'm not sure how true that is, but it is a concern among engine builders.

Yeaa I'm on the fence about this one I don't wanna have to worry, I've got the act 11.5lbs flywheel

I'm sorry to hear that.  I'm assuming you have an ACT clutch too?

Idk why your sorry lol I love it...n no I've got an Exedy stage 1 organic clutch

He doesn't care for ACT.

Aaaahhh I see...well it's all good everyone has their preferences

Actually, a lot of K Series guys avoid ACT since their products are known to fail and cause problems.  I had an ACT heavy duty pressure plate with full faced organic clutch, and it destroyed 2 OEM master cylinders, 4 aftermarket master cylinders, 3 Omni Power master cylinders, and 4 or 5 clutch pedal assemblies.  There's also another guy out here that has an Accord with an ACT extreme pressure plate with a 6 puck clutch and he's chewing through master cylinders like it's going out of style.  No thanks on the ACT stuff.  There are better products out there.  I've had much better luck with my Competition Clutch.

Alrighttt then haha I didn't know about all that but all I have of theirs is the flywheel so hopefully I won't run into those problems

I hope not man.  I'll never spend another dime on anything ACT makes.

im looking at the Ralco RZ 914117 lightweight stock diameter pulleys for my 5AT. anyone who has violent reactions or horror stories please chime in now....  ::)

i just bought a tsx Intake manifold. I plan to do this mod as well and i was wondering, do you guys think i should wait and do both together to feel a bigger difference or should i just do the IM and then do the pulleys eventually?

install as you receive. im impatient and whenever i get a new part, it is installed very quickly.

^This.

haha yea, thats like hookers and blow.... sure they are amazing together but one by itself is still fun!

So using that in my sig.

i like it!

hahaha will do then