EliteCM.net

Here is my second attempt at a DIY. This is just an install and not removal because my original sway bar has been removed before hand. I know my car is pretty dirty due to the magnesium chloride.

Tools:

12mm socket
14mm wrench
3/16 hex key or hex socket
3/8 ratchet or 1/2 ratchet (whichever suits you better)
Rust penentrant

First, remove the 14mm bolt connecting the sway bar to the end links (Be sure to spray some rust penetrant). This is where the hex key come in. When the 14mm bolt and the end link starts to turn together, you stick the hex key or hex socket inside the end link. From there, you loosen the 14mm bolt while keeping the hex key stationary.

(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a279/7thGenVillain/DSC03530.jpg)
(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a279/7thGenVillain/DSC03531.jpg)

After you have loosen the bolts off the end links, you then proceed to loosen the bolts that are connecting the brackets to the frame.

(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a279/7thGenVillain/DSC03532.jpg)
(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a279/7thGenVillain/DSC03533.jpg)

Now, remove the sway bar out of the way.

(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a279/7thGenVillain/DSC03534.jpg)

Place the new sway bar in its position. Put the bolts that are connecting the brackets to the frame on.

(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a279/7thGenVillain/DSC03536.jpg)
(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a279/7thGenVillain/DSC03537.jpg)

Slide the end links into the holes of the sway bar.

(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a279/7thGenVillain/DSC03535.jpg)
(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a279/7thGenVillain/DSC03538.jpg)

Tighten the 14mm bolt and again use the hex key and the 14mm wrench to tighten the bolt down.

Finish product should look like so. I hope this helps anyone who is going to install a rear sway bar.

(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a279/7thGenVillain/DSC03539.jpg)
(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a279/7thGenVillain/DSC03540.jpg)

Excellent write-up Thien!

This is a little off topic but still relates to the sway bar, but has anyone (with the 4cyl) have any issues with the TL-S sway bar rubbing against the exhaust hanger?  When I put my car on the rack and did an inspection, I saw that the exhaust hanger was rubbing against the sway bar and actually dug in about 1mm. It's gone through the paint and I could see a little rust on the sway bar. I'm assuming that the larger diameter is what causes them to rub.

Yes Brian, it has been mentioned that other i4 owners with the TL-S rear sway bar have had this issue.  They have resolved it by bending the exhaust hangar for more clearance.

Thanks for clearing that up, Tim.  I just thought that was an important thing to bring up for future reference.

thien +100 for his DIY's

his DIY ingalls camber kit helped out a bunch!!!

i dont kno if i should go for a tl type s or regular tl sway bar... i would run it with the V6 stb and sum koni yellows? would be kinda rough for every day driving?

Not at all.  I have pretty much every suspension upgrade for my car and DD is still fairly comfortable because my shocks and spring rates aren't too stiff.  In case you were wondering, I have:

Tein Basics
Ingalls rear camber kit
Ingalls front camber kit (to be installed)
Comptech 22 mm rear sway bar
TL-S 27 mm front sway bar
Accord V6 6MT shock tower bar
Neuspeed shock tower bar
Cusco Type II chassis brace
Ingalls engine torque damper
OEM solid filled transmission mount

hey tim does the comptech 22mm rear make contact with the exhaust hanger bracket? also i heard there are issues with snap oversteer with the 20mm rear? i dont kno anything about this

If you don't upgrade your front sway bar, yes you will have the potential to oversteer.  There are issues with the OEM exhaust hangars hitting the rear sway bar.

i would definetly be doing both front and rear. thanx tim as for the contact would bending the exhaust hanger have any inpact on my exhaust. would exhaust become lose after wear and tear. would it be off center from the back? and that would be with ONLY the oem exhaust not with lets say an apexi cat back?

Not that I know of.  You shouldn't have much of a problem when you bend it as long as you do it properly and use common sense.

i am dying to do a next mod on my car. the type s rear sway is fairly inexpensive compared to the front. is the oversteer that bad to have just the rear sway? for a few months? till i get the front.... are these the exact parts i need for the rear sway DIY?

2005-2008 tl type-s
52300-SEP-A11 20mm rear sway
52306-SEP-A11 bushing x2
52308-S3M-A00 bracket x2

Great write up thien, but the end links use a 5mm hex key, 3/16 is close, but if the hex key area is weak (like most are) it does not fit as tight and can be a bit easier to strip.

i finally got my TL-S 20mm sway. i went to go install it today, but i had trouble removing the nut from the stabilizer link. it was seized in there pretty well. i sprayed wd-40 on it, but that wasn't enough. im going to have to put some rust penetrator in there. maybe the use of a hoist would make it easier to take off, giving me more leverage.

any advice?

PB Blaster.....

pb blaster???? what is that

+1 on the PB Blaster.

PB Blaster (http://blasterchemical.com/display.cfm?p=50003&pid=4)

About the best penetraiting oil I have ever used.....

oh ok thanx bud. ya im going to try it again on my garage floor this time using rust penetrator. im going to spray a little bit a day to really penetrate through....

That's a very good idea Fab. Another +1 on the PB Blaster. I swear by that shit.

can i just get under and get her done with out lifting the car

Maaaybe if you're stock height but even lifted it's a PITA.

i kno. i just dont have a jack or stands. its all at my buddies house. just wasnt sure if it would affect the stabilizer links or anything. thanx milan. tomorrow is going to be a nice day, so i would love to tackle this. i will see if i can manage

When I installed my TL RSB, I was at stock height and did it without jacking it up. It's really not all that difficult.

Yeah, it really isn't that difficult unless the bolts are seized on the sway bar link like mine were.  What should be a 20 min job ended up taking me about an hour and a half.

so i went to install the bar today. pb blaster was awesome got the nut lose but ended up stripping the the stabilizer link thread. it was pretty seized up. now i will have to torch the links off. resulting in me probably spending another $100 bucks. so now i have to put this on hold, till i save some cash for new ones.

New links are only like $25 ea here at advanced auto parts and you don't have to tourch them off, you can drill off the nuts using a 7/16 drill bit.

Who has done the front sway by themselves?

I just ordered the parts and it will get here in a week or so. 200CDN for front + rear is not bad at all

Front sway bar is a motherfucker if you don't have the right tools and equipment.  If you are not comfortable with lowering the front lower sub frame, then you should pay someone else to do this for you.

I have a question for yall. So suleman and I installed my swaybar last summer. We used grease from brake check (suleman's job) on the bushings and it worked great. Well fast forward to winter time and I can start hearing the sway bar rubbing against the bushings (or possibly the exhaust hanger, but I didn't hear that before so im assuming its the first). Any special grease yall would recommend that can withstand some time

I have car stands, and a large jack ... what else would I need?

Am I getting into something dangerous here?

Yes, it is something you should not do in your driveway. It is best to do at a shop that has lifts to do the front sway bar. The rear on the other hand can be down in the comfort of your garage or driveway. What Tim says is true on the front sway bar. It is a pain in the ass to install. I have done the install, and if you don't have a lift or proper tools, it can and will be a dangerous install.

Anyone got the part number for the end links?

I am thinking mine might be seized because of age...

hondaautomotiveparts.com + a little time searchng = your answer

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/aut ... +LOWER+ARM (http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=ACCORD&catcgry2=2007&catcgry3=4DR+EXL&catcgry4=KA5AT&catcgry5=REAR+LOWER+ARM)

I looked here, wasn't exactly sure which exact piece is the endlink for the sway

Are they these?
2324177      008      1      LINK, R. RR. STABILIZER
2324178    009    1    LINK, L. RR. STABILIZER

Yes.

Got both my sways installed.. didn't need endlinks thankfully!

Car feels so planted now

Should I buy an acura tl rear sway bar that corrolates with th same year vehicle as mine? I have an 05 coupe, so should I buy the 05 tl rear sway bar? Or does the year of the sway bar not make a difference? Also if newer model sway bars will fit my vehicle will there be an advantage to having an 07 rsb over an 05.

Different years can represent differance in size.

I got the 07 TL-S RSB. I have an 03. So, like Mike said I think it just depends on what size you want.

04-08 Base TL - 17mm
04-08 TL-S and Type S - 20mm

Stock Accord is 14mm

thanks for clearing that up, and is $70 too much to spend on the tl 20mm rsb. The dealer i went to wanted about 70 for rsb, bushings and what not. I looked online and it was about $60 shipped for everything. I just want to make sure im getting a good deal

70 to high when i got mines i payed 50 from my dealer and they sent me 2 rear ones i have a extra one and can make you a better deal if you in the nyc area. installing the front will be my next mod when i find a decent mechanic

well im in the jersey area and i dont go down to nyc that often, but for a good price i might be up for a hike  ;D   pm me

so i went to install my RSB today and i stripped the hex wrench part of the bolt. Do i need to just get a new bolt and cut the old one off, or do i have to get all new links.

You will have to get a new link. You can try to save it using a vise grip and tightening down the nut.

yeah theres no use i tried cutting a little rivet type thing to get a screw driver in there but ended up stripping the entire bolt down. So how would i get the old link off?

Cut it off. Its the only way.

was afraid u were gonna say that

I drilled mine out and just replaced both with a duralast replacement. It has a far better design. I replaced my non stripped one just to be safe.

Try some PB blaster first thats how i got mines out

Yeah I called a couple honda dealerships today and they all wanted 115 dollars for a set of two links so, I was like f that.ill just tRy pb blaster. If that doesn't work ill cut the nut off. Does home depot sell pb blaster? Where can I get a can?

Home depot sells it and so do most auto parts stores. As for the links, get the Moog ones at Napa.

Holy thread revival batman.

I have a question in regards to the front sway bar... I figured that it would be best to go in here since the front and rear sway bars are the same concept. Anyways, I've noticed that my FSB (TL-S 27.2mm hollow) feels like it has "loosened" up some, like it's not as rigid as it used to be. Does that sound normal just from being under constant use?

Also, I've read that some people have had problems with the front TL-S bars having too large of holes at the end that go to the endlink, eventually causing some play and even breaking the endlinks off. Has anyone heard of this issue? They said that they swapped out to the TL-S endlinks, which seemed to have fixed the issue. I just want to make sure I won't run into this problem down the road. Thanks.

Loosened up as in you feel it in the steering or touching it?

Steering I think I've just gotten used to it, so I'm looking to lower it so I can get some better handling.

I haven't heard of the end link issue, but I'm going to put my car on ramps tomorrow and check it out.

How do i stop my link from squeaking? every bump it frriggen squeaks, it makes me crazy. I tried putting oil on it, and tightening it. After i tighten it it stop for like a day, then the squeaking starts again. Everythings installed properly, is there something im missing? or didnt try?

Did you make sure that it's not your exhaust hanger rubbing on the sway bar? For me, that was causing the noise, so I just bent down the hanger some.

Thread revival time..lol Ok so it's not the swaybar but it's pretty much related... I'm trying to install Moog endlinks in my car since my stock links are loose and making squeaking noises. Anyway, I've been struggling for 2 days now trying to get the damn nuts off and they won't budge (They're most likely the originals and it's a 6 yr old car and I live in Canada so lots of snow). I've soaked them in PB Blaster for 2 days and I don't feel any different when trying to loosen them. SO the question is I see you guys saying to drill them off.. I'm not sure how to do this. Could someone pls enlighten me? :question:

Don't bother trying to drill them off. Get yourself a sawzall and cut the old bolt heads off just behind the mounting points. Only way you'll get them off. One other option is to put a pair of vise grips on the flat part of the bolt where it sticks out of the endlink and try turning the nut off that way. The allen head on those damn things always strip out.

Hi tim, do you have a procedure how to replace front one, that day I lift up the chassis and saw I need to lower the subframe before replacing the bar. I feel the technician is not that confident with this job. In work shop manual the instruction is splitte to 2 portions, some in 'replace subframe', the others is in how to change front sway bar, there is not an exact description of this special job. I dont think all subframe bolts need to be uninstalled as the manual stated in "replace subframe". And then, I'm not sure if marking and re-align are quite difficult or not, I checked the technicina, it seems he has no sense on this point, I need to know which bolt will be uninstalled and replaced by new ones firstly.

Neuspeed has the instructions on their website. It's not extremely complicated to do the front, it's just difficult to get the front sway bar out. You can reuse the front sub frame bolts if you want. I've remove my sub frame a few times and used the bolts again.

Hi Tim, what is the reason to mark on subframe when uninstalling rear bracket. I saw that bracket connecting between sub frame and frame.

No clue.