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I just got done with the Hondata gasket install today. The installation was not as difficult as originally thought. Mainly because the TSX uses all metal gaskets, which means no scraping of old gasket necessary. The complete installation should take about 2 hrs. The most difficult part was to remove and reinstall the intake manifold support bracket bolt and nut due to lack of space to place the wrench. If I have to rate the installation difficulty on a scale of 1 to 5 (1 being the easiest such as swaybar and strut bar install), the gasket install would be #2 on the same level of difficulty as a CAI or header install.
this is DIY for the hondata intake gasket. note this gasket goes inbetween fuel injectors and the cyliner head. NOT between manifold and fuel injectors.

this is a great mod. the gasket is used to keep air coming through the intake manifold alot cooler. this mod would be great for those hot summer days. for more information visit:
http://www.hondata.com/heatshieldgasket.html (http://www.hondata.com/heatshieldgasket.html)

on to the diy. its for a tsx, but its pretty straight forward. i did it my self and found no problems with the write up, just combine this DIY and the TSX intake manifold DIY, and the install shouldnt be too bad. 2-3hrs  NOTE: i didnt disconnect TB coolant lines (step #6) also in step #16 there is no need to disconnect the vacuum hose as the accord k24 does not have one just replace with the nipple found on the accord manifold. i also skipped steps 15 &20

Tools needed:
Ratchet wrench
10mm and 12mm sockets
Short socket extension or 12mm deep socket
Long socket extension (very long) for intake manifold bracket nut
Universal joint for use with long extension
12mm box-end wrench
Plier for removing hose clamps

Torque spec:
All nuts and bolts are only 16 lbs, including the IM support bracket.

Steps:
1. Remove bottom splash guard (you need to access the IM support bracket from the bottom).
2. Drain coolant.
3. Remove intake manifold top cover.
4. Remove intake tube and IAT sensor connector.
5. Remove large vacuum hose attached to the front of the intake manifold.
6. Remove throttle body coolant lines. This is the best time to perform the TB coolant bypass mod if you haven't done it already.
7. Remove throttle body DBW connector.
8. Remove MAP sensor connector.
9. Remove wire harness mounting bolt on the front by the MAP sensor(12mm).
10.Remove hose bracket on top right corner of the intake manifold (10mm).
11.Remove intake manifold support bracket mounting nut and bolt from the bottom of the car (12mm). Just leave the bracket dangle.
12.Remove intake manifold mounting nuts and bolts (12mm)
13.Remove intake manifold with TB from injector base. Note: slowly back out first and disconnect vacuum hose from the back of the intake manifold before lifting it out completely.
14.Remove oem intake manifold gasket. You will need to reuse the gasket later.
15.Remove engine mount control solenoid bracket from top left corner of injector base (10mm). Just leave the entire assembly dangle.
16.Remove injector base mounting nuts and bolts (12mm)
17.Note: you do not have to remove anything else on the injector base. However, you can optionally disconnect the fuel line quick-connector from the fuel rail if you want more wriggling room. Make sure to place some rags around the fuel line connector area to catch spill. I only had two drops.
18.Remove injector base assembly from the cylinder head. Actually, just pull it out far enough to remove and install the gasket.
19.Remove oem injector base gasket.
20.Clean injector base and intake port surface.
21.Install Hondata heatshield gasket.
22.Reinstall everything in reverse orders.
23.Refill coolant. Start engine and let it idle. Check for leaks.
24.Done!

Some pics:
Removed top cover and intake tube
(http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu301/fabulous010/Removedtopcoverandintaketube.jpg)

Intake manfold with TB assembly
(http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu301/fabulous010/Intakemanifoldassembly.jpg)

Injector base
Note: the motor mount control solenoid assembly dangling on the left of the fuel rail.
(http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu301/fabulous010/Injectorbase.jpg)

Shift injector base to the side and showing intake ports
Note the traces of oil inside and around the intake ports!
(http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu301/fabulous010/Intakeports.jpg)

Injector base with oil!
The injector base is the same way! This is caused by the PCV system sucking oil vapor from the crankcase and burning it in the combustion camber via the intake manifold. The TSX seems to suck in more oil than my Civic, possibly due to the lack of oil separator. Better clean it up before installing the gasket!
(http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu301/fabulous010/Injectorbasewithoil.jpg)

Dirty shit!
Hmm... I might have to install a catch can.
(http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu301/fabulous010/dirtyrag.jpg)

EGR plate
The EGR plate on top of the injector base is the same way because the hose routes the oil vapor to this plate, then down to injector base and intake ports.
(http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu301/fabulous010/EGRplate.jpg)

EGR plate 2
I think this is the reason why K-series engine use more oil. Not because of burning through the rings.
(http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu301/fabulous010/EGRplate2.jpg)

Gasket thickness
The gasket is pretty thick at 3.5mm.
(http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu301/fabulous010/gasketthickness.jpg)

Gaskets
(http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu301/fabulous010/gaskets.jpg)

Completed. that is actually my car. my hondata gasket is blue!
(http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu301/fabulous010/P1000087-Copy.jpg)

transferred over from http://www.acurazine.com/ (http://www.acurazine.com/)

Maybe it's just me, but none of the pictures work. Otherwise, great write up!

Same here.  All but one of the pictures work.

Same thing, can only see last pic...

fixed

Good stuff.

thanx. it was pretty simple i just transfered all the info from acurazine. i just wanted to do my first write up ever

this gasket works really well my car breathes great with this thing on. it feels like those brisk winter nights when all that cool air has your motor running great. now my motor is always breathing liek that. i think itll be really usefull in the summer. i highly recommend this for anyone doing the TSX IM mod. only difference is you have to bleed the radiator. You will leak coolant if u try to take off injector base without bleeding the rad. i tried my self but it didnt work i had to bleed the rad. and then u just have to take of an extra 8 bolts/nuts on the injector base. u dont even need to pull entire base off just out enough to place hondata gasket. and the old OEM gasket came right out. no scrapping of any kind....just my two cents

sticky??

when you say drain coolant, do you mean all of it?

i jus drained the big radiator hose at the bottom of the rad

ahh good deal. thanks for clearing that one up!

There's a petcock at the bottom of the radiator that would have been a lot easier to use.

i had to take off my front bumper anyways to remove the intake resonator. so i just pull the splash gaurd out of the way and disconnected the hose. just make sure your have an extra bottle of type II Honda coolant??? i think thats what it is called.... just in case if you need any

nice write up but does anyone on here have that white gasket.. the P2R Intake manifold gasket

i only have the hondata gasket. i think thats most important one because of the direst contact to the cylinder head

yeah i know that but they make two of them....one for both sides....do i get the one for the tsx?

i think all k24 gaskets are the same. correct me if im wrong...

i jsut ordered two of them

the gasket that sits in between the engine and Injector base  and the gasket from the Injector base  to the tsx manifold

The gasket between the head and the injector base is the Hondata gasket, the one between the intake manifold and the injector base is the P2R Thermal gasket.

^^^is that what your running now?

Nope.  I'm running OEM gaskets because I couldn't justify the trouble or expense for minimal gains.

the p2r thermal gasket i think would be pretty simple to do. just unbolt the intake manifold and put the gasket in place. there is no need to scrap the old gasket out becuase they are made out of metal.
the hondata one is a pain because you have to completely take off the intake manifold and drain the radiator coolant to unbolt the injector base. when i installed the hondata gasket i was also installing the TSX IM, so to me it was just an extra 5 or 6 bolts to take off to get the injector base free, to place the new gasket in place. but you do have to bleed the radiator coolant. i tried not to and as soon as i unbolted the injector base, coolant started to spray out. so i had to tighten a bolt to hold injector inplace while i bleed the coolant out. then once it was completely drained i free'd up the injector base and no coolant came out. overall with the hondata gasket and TSX IM my car runs really effeciently. i would compare the gakset gains to having no one in the car, or running 94octane.

i jsut got my P2R GASKETS going to try this install thursday or friday

(http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj188/knocturnal84/BrianCrower%20%20Upgrade/DSCN1725.jpg)

I should have stickied this a long time ago.  Anyway, it's a sticky now.  If anyone has any questions about this mod or install, please post them in here.

Has anyone dynoed with these gaskets? i recently installed the TSX IM with IMG to injector base. I have yet to install the IMG to the head due to bleeding of the coolant
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/208/uysv.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/5suysvj)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/835/hxyy.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/n7hxyyj)

You probably won't notice much of a difference, even on the dyno.  Essentially, these will help reduce heat soak to the intake manifold over time when driving longer distances. 

now I have read places that this gasket mod would somehow affect the performance due to the gap separation of the injectors and the spray. now I don't know if this is true but please chime in or pm me to verify this. it kinda makes sense it be a gap between injectors and engine is increased with gasket thickness but at same time im not positive have not yet to do this mod

It has been proven that moving the injectors further out will cause a decrease in HP.  There are two gaskets for our manifold.  The one that is between the runners and the injector base will not affect the injector position.  However, the gasket between the head and the injector base will move the injectors out further and affect HP.

ok that's what I thought so yea ill just stick with my tb and mid section gaskets