EliteCM.net

This is my first DIY, so I will be as thorough as I can.

Tools:

14mm wrench
17mm wrench
14mm socket
17mm socket
1/2 inch ratchet
Hammer
Pry Bar
PB blaster

First, remove your wheels.

(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d199/7thGenVillian/IngallsRearCamberKitDIY1.jpg)
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d199/7thGenVillian/IngallsRearCamberKitDIY2.jpg)

Remove the toe arm first. If you have access to air tools, this will make the install 5x faster. Remove the 17mm nut connected to the spindle. (Highlighted in blue)

(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d199/7thGenVillian/IngallsRearCamberKitDIY3.jpg)

Using a 17mm socket with 1/2 ratchet and 14mm wrench. Place the 14mm wrench on the bolt head on the back. Using the 17mm socket, loosen the eccentric bolt while keeping the 14mm wrench stationary.

(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d199/7thGenVillian/IngallsRearCamberKitDIY4.jpg)

Tap on the bolt til you can fully pull it out. It should come swinging down and pull the arm off the bolt connected to the spindle.

(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d199/7thGenVillian/IngallsRearCamberKitDIY8.jpg)

Repeat for the other side.

Now using a 14mm socket with 1/2 ratchet or if you have an impact gun. Spray some PB blaster or any kind rust penetrate to soak in. If you feel that it will not loosen, tighten it back on and then loosen again. Repeat til you can feel that it is coming off on the bolt pictured below. The nut behind it is attached to the bracket so there is no need to hold it with a wrench.

(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d199/7thGenVillian/IngallsRearCamberKitDIY5.jpg)
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d199/7thGenVillian/IngallsRearCamberKitDIY7.jpg)

Using a 17mm wrench and 17mm socket with ratchet. Unbolt the bolt that is connecting the camber arm on the spindle.

(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d199/7thGenVillian/IngallsRearCamberKitDIY6.jpg)

The arm should come down.

Repeat for the other side.

Now install the Ingalls arm to it's proper place. Short arm goes to the camber arm and the long arm goes to the toe arm area.

(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d199/7thGenVillian/IngallsRearCamberKitDIY9.jpg)

The camber might be a tight fit. Use a hammer and lightly tap it in. Then using a pry bar, pry agaisnt the bar til you can push the bolt right through.

Do not tighten down the bolts completely. You will need some play for it to fit around fully.

Put the toe arm on the bolt on the spindle, and then swing it up towards the opened area. Slide the bolt in, and place the bolt back on.

Finished product should look like so.

(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d199/7thGenVillian/IngallsRearCamberKitDIY10.jpg)
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d199/7thGenVillian/IngallsRearCamberKitDIY11.jpg)
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d199/7thGenVillian/IngallsRearCamberKitDIY12.jpg)
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d199/7thGenVillian/IngallsRearCamberKitDIY13.jpg)
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d199/7thGenVillian/IngallsRearCamberKitDIY14.jpg)
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d199/7thGenVillian/IngallsRearCamberKitDIY15.jpg)
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d199/7thGenVillian/IngallsRearCamberKitDIY16.jpg)

Another excellent DIY, great job Thien!

What if the bolts are siezed like mine were?

If you have access to air tools, use an air hammer. If that doesn't work, you got to bust out the torch or something to cut those bolts out.

I used a reciprocating saw and a cut off wheel.  No fun!!

Yea My bolts were seized within the sleeves of the stock arms...no fun out came the torch problem solved! lol

We should have torched mine when I installed my camber kit.  Wait a minute?  I think we did and that still didn't work.  FUCK!!!!!!

It took 3 hrs of beating and heating to get the bolts out, if only I had bought some replacement bolts from Honda we could have just cut them out within a couple of minutes but nooo.

It would have taken you longer than a couple of minutes.  I bought replacement bolts from Honda and I still spent at least 4 or 5 hours hacking away at them because it was hard to get to them with either the cut off wheel or the reciprocating saw.  I had to use a combination of both to get the job done, and it seems that all the bolts needed to be cut.

This writeup helped me install mine. Thanks again Thien

No problem at all. I'm glad it could help out.

tim - you got yours torched and they didnt come out? something's up there! my bolts were torched and the guy got them out after they were torched! i was able to do the rear camber arm, but not the toe arm. the toe arm bolts were what was stripped and had to be torched

Well, you need to take into consideration that I live in the North East.  We see a lot more snow and salt on the roads which would cause the bolts to seize in the control arms.  Not all of us are lucky enough to live in areas with better weather.

how many kms where on the rides. i have 85 000km. AND i live in canada!!! i might have the same issue..? if not worse

I had about 35k miles on mines. You might, you might not run into some problems. A lot of times, the bolts get seized inside the arm's bushings.

This will come in handy very soon! Great info as usuall Thien.

snapped a bolt gettting 1st bar out...do i have any other option than getting honda replacement bolts ??
called 4 dealerships and they arent in  stock

luckily got a nut to catch a thead and screwed it on pretty good for now
only got 2 bars installed

would using  a  regular 17mm nut and washer and bolt be fine to use?
if so i will cut or torch these off today and be done with it-

let me know soooooon

IMO, you should be fine if you went with grade 5 or better bolts and nuts. Actually, go with grade 8 bolts. Toughest shit you can put on. Hell, the off road guys use those bad boys.

my bolts were seized as well. shop had to cut them off

SWEET! i just bought a kit for my car... i will be picking it up sometime this week.

wow........ i don't even wanna go into detail about my friday night/saturday morning/saturday afternoon.... i now have 3 of the 4 bars on...
snapped the first bolt and spent $14 and a 20 mile drive on a new bolt and hardware to do install......
this project can be a giant WHORE if your car decides to let you have it
unbelievable amount of pb blaster torching hammering cutting dremeling sawzalling prying racheting elbow grease and scrapes and bruises took place in that amount of time...lemme tell you

so 2nd bolt was seized too... and i messed up thread trying to hammer it out.... temporary fixed it for now..... ordered new hardware (again) should be in tomorrow morning...
got a bigger sawzall with a new blade for that last one... i have alot of hatred on that one bolt left.....  so frustrated


on a brighter note:  I be in puerto rico for the next 5 days for vacation :)

man im soo excited to pick my camber kit later on this week! not too excited about the fact, that i know itll be a bitch! to install

Haha!  I hear you.  When I did mine I think I managed to take one bolt out without having to cut it or torch it off.  

For this reason:
BUY REPLACEMENT HARDWARE BEFORE YOU DO THE INSTALL!  :)

That's what I did so I didn't have to worry about destroying the hardware.

^good advice.  I haven't decided if i want to do this install on my own yet.  i'm awaiting arrival of my kit that i ordered from ultrarev last week.

That's exactly what I did also.  It's always a good idea to get spare hardware if they're inexpensive to replace.

If all the bolts come off easy then it's a simple install.  If they don't, prepare to curse and take your car to a shop so they can torch the bolts off.  I'd definitely give it a shot.  When you bought the kit from Ultrarev did you have any discount coupons??  

is it just the nuts, bolts, and washers im going to need? for the lower arm and control arm?

This should get you started
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/aut ... +LOWER+ARM (http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=ACCORD&catcgry2=2003&catcgry3=4DR+EX&catcgry4=KA5AT&catcgry5=REAR+LOWER+ARM)

(http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/catimgs/14SDA0_B29.gif)

Did you order front and rear or just the rear? How much?

Milan, i didn't get any discount, but it wasn't that bad.  however, it is backordered all across the country apparently..  i ordered on 4/3/09, and it still hasn't shipped.  i called yesterday and they told me it might ship by the end of the week, but next week definitely.

Billy, I only ordered the ingalls rear camber kit.  my drop isn't low enough to really warrant a need for the front.. yet.  here'd the order summary:

Products ordered
SKU Product Item price Quantity Total
 
38725-4 Ingalls SmartArm Rear Adjustable Lower Links (Rubber) Replaces Both Lower Arms Honda Accord 2003-2006 Adj Range:-1-1/2° to +3°  $64.29   2 $128.58  
Subtotal:  $128.58    
Shipping cost:  $11.62    
 
Total:  $140.20  

so looks like i need parts, 15, 20, 21, 28, 29, 31, & 32. just to make sure i have the right hardware for the right parts..

That sounds about right.

ok kool. thanx milan i will order these when i P/U my camber kit

Thanks, good price!

i just p/u my camber kit. just need to order me the hardware to do the install!

How many do you think I should order of each part #.... 1 maybe 2 just in case???

i installed my Revo ingalls camber kit today and got it allined...all the bolts and screws came out easy and in good shape..

how many km do u have on your ride tho>

i have 107,XXX....Miles but i also live in Miami, FL, i think the weather and salt play a big role why the bolts and nuts get corroted and jamed..

Dam the cheapest I found was $155 shipped... I need to order my rear one asap due to the drop...

If you live in an area where it snows every winter those bolts are going to be a bitch.  Took a torch and air hammer to get mine out.

+23092039129310287380127301972301 !!!!

i ended up destroying the HELL out of my oem bars trynig to do this all... i did however pull it off....
pb blast those nuts and bolts everyday...for a week...before you try to do this install

Word I definetly need to do this! Ima be doing the install very soon....

PB Blaster works wonders

Where can I pick this stuff up at? Is it called that exactly? Ima start the process of dropping the car next week or the week after. Waiting on my popz...

You can find PB Blaster at local auto stores, and yes, it is called PB Blaster.

Thanks I will be picking up some this weekend.

Fucking seized bolts suck big time!!!!! Had to cut 2 so far and I still have one to go. I need more blades and a nut, damn parts guy gave me 4 of the same nut when I needed 2 and 2. AYYYEEEeeeeeeeeeee

That sucks man. Should've used a torch  

Installed, rides great! Thanks for the write up Thien

No problem at all. Glad you were able to get them on. Sucks you had to cut those bolts out. Word to the wise, try to have an air hammer and a torch on hand.

I'll be putting mine on tomorrow more than likely. I'm hoping since it's a Miami car I won't have alot of trouble with seized bolts. *knock on wood*

^^make sure you have new bolts just in case, and for the love of god, anti-seeze them!

I had no trouble at all with the install however I'm getting a knocking sound going over bumps at slow speeds. I got underneath the car and shook the camber arms and that is where the sound is coming from. Bascially there was some play, less than 1/4 inch I'd say.  I'm going to re torque them back down to specs and see if that will fix it. It's a possibility I didnt torque them down enough.

I hope it's ok to post my camber issues here, hopefully if I can find out my issue it might help someone down the line.

Took both wheels off and re checked all the nuts/bolts. Everything is fine, unless I mixed up the camber arms. The one thing I didnt check was the sway bar, would lowering cause the sway bar to angle differently causing my noise issue?  See pics below. Need some help guys. TIA


(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k26/carpeja3/camber0901001.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k26/carpeja3/camber0901003.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k26/carpeja3/camber0901004.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k26/carpeja3/camber0901005.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k26/carpeja3/camber0901006.jpg)

nice write up. I need to get lowered now.

Here my contribution:

I said some of the bolt wrong. So just follow what Thien has. Excuse my language on one of them. My friend is Gay and we say dumb stuff to each other. lol

(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m77/thisaznboi88/th_0604001100.jpg) (http://s101.photobucket.com/albums/m77/thisaznboi88/?action=view&current=0604001100.flv)

(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m77/thisaznboi88/th_0604001040.jpg) (http://s101.photobucket.com/albums/m77/thisaznboi88/?action=view&current=0604001040.flv)

(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m77/thisaznboi88/th_0604001037.jpg) (http://s101.photobucket.com/albums/m77/thisaznboi88/?action=view&current=0604001037.flv)

How long did this take you? Do you want me to make a real DIY Video? I can get one done if need be. HAHA.

One side took an hour because I didn't have all the right tool in front of me. The second side took 30mins.

i was told you really dont need camber kits, all you had to do is get your toes aligned. Someone correct me if I'm wrong because I'm installing my coilovers in about a week and I'm not sure if I need a Camber Kit.

You will need a camber with almost any drop. Whoever told you that is totally wrong. You can adjust toe, but you will start to see a lot of camber wear.

You need a camber kit. The rear doesn't allow for enough adjustment to get it in spec.

 :stupid:

Look at the times idiot! We posted at the same time!

That smiley was for both of yous. Touchy, aren't we? :laugh:

 :mad: I'm tired, and looking at another long week. Taking time off destroys me every time! No I'm two weeks behind.

No worries bud. Don't worry. I didn't take offense to you calling me an idiot, fuckbag.  :flip:

so before i throw my suspension on i should definetly buy a camber kit? and if so whatbrand do you guys recommend?

You will mainly need a rear camber kit. I highly suggest Ingalls.

Wake up old ass thread!

I'm thinking of pulling the trigger on an ingalls kit to couple with my wicked upper arms and had a question. If I were to leave my upper arms at a negative three camber then adjust the lower arms, would I be able to bring my rear camber closer to spec with the current +25 wheels I'm running or is it unachievable?

Mathematically it makes sense. pull the top in and pull the bottom to compensate.

That's what I was thinking. I'm just not sure it will work.

Actually rethinking it I probably wont work. Think of the Hub as a fulcrum no matter what adjustments you make top and bottom, and side to side the center point is fixed.

Not really. The hub is supported by individual arms and the rear strut. Nothing in the middle. There are three lower arms and one upper. The ingalls kit replaces two of the lower arms and I already upgraded the upper arms. The third lower arm is the one I don't know about.

Yes but, the wheel bearing bolts onto a solid axle no? Am I wrong on this?

You are incorrect. You're thinking of the front hubs.

Woooo finally Read the correct thread! I've heard so much about needing and not needing a camber kit. Finally so I do need one no matter how little the drop. I'm not excited about the seized bolts though as I'm in Pittsburgh and they treat salt like candy. The ingals contains both left and right correct ?

Wherever you've been reading that you don't need a camber kit for a drop, know they they are wrong and are giving out bad information. Siezed bolts suck, but it happens. Get a sawzall and a bunch of blades and you'll be fine.

The Ingalls kit will come with 4 bars total. Some sites sell 2 bars, so you'll have to buy 2 sets. Just pay attention to what's documented on the site you're buying from and ask questions if it's unclear.

I noticed that, now ingalls is asking $120 per set / side. I saw on page three of the thread that the total for the guys order was 140. Was that both sides ? If so where from?
Also you guys seem pretty fond or a least a few of you of  PB Blaster. I've never had much luck with it. I feel like liquid wrench and croil have worked better for me personally.

On page 3? You're talking about something that happened 4 years ago. Whoever you're talking about, he may have come across a great deal. You just have to search until you find a price that works for you.

Totally neglected to look at the date lol and ok I'll let you guys know what I come up with

Sounds good man.

Also for the front, which ill most likely do also I've saw they have both adjustable ball joints and upper control arms. Is one better than the other / more reliable?

If you're going to go really low, get the adjustable upper control arms.  You really don't even need a front kit unless you plan on dropping 2.5"+ 

Ok im just trying to keep it as in spec after the drop as possible because I tend to do a lot of driving 25 one way to work

finally lowered my car on tein s tech springs. Looking into a rear camber kit. Should I get spc upper camber arms with ball joint? or ingalls lower arms? they're both about the same price so what will allow camber to align into spec. Which is a better buy?

From my understanding the Ingalls kit is better. That being said, I'm sure either kit will do that job just fine. I have the lower arms kit and haven't had a problem. The alignment tech did tell me it was a giant pain in the ass to align the rear though.

Ingalls will give you more adjustment. Not just camber, but also toe.