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So my car has about 95k on it now and for the last 75k my car has been lowered.  I've noticed vibrations in the car at all speeds but it seems to get worse at higher speeds (during both acceleration and just cruising).  I'm pretty sure it isn't the rims or tires because I have two sets of wheels and the vibrations occur with both sets.  I believe the axles to be the culprit so I've purchased a new set but haven't got them installed yet.  Since my car is getting up there in mileage and since I've been lowered for so long, I figure there are probably other suspension components that might need to be replaced soon as well. 

Reading through this section it seems like compliance bushings typically wear out around this mileage so I'll probably get a set of those (should I go with OEM?  Not interested in any that require extra maintenance).  I'm going to have a shop replace these items (don't have the tools or experience to do it myself) so I figure I can save some downtime and labor costs doing this all at once.  Anything else I should get?

What about sway bar links? I just had those done.

Have a look at ball joints as well. Both uppers and lowers. Like Denny said, sway bar end links is another good thing to take care of.

Are the front sway bar end links # 4 & 5?

4    51320-SDA-A05    LINK, R. FR. STABILIZER    1    $19.83    $13.88    
   
5    51321-SDA-A05    LINK, L. FR. STABILIZER    1    $19.83    $13.88

(http://cdn.revolutionparts.com/ill2.php?d=5fcd9&i=00002424274104040312101c15101210731345&t=1396465306&make=honda)


Are the rear sway bar end links # 8 & 9? (No idea why they list two different #s for each...)

8    52320-SFY-J01    LINK, R. RR. STABILIZER    1    $19.07    $13.35    
   
8    52320-SDA-A01    LINK, R. RR. STABILIZER    1    $19.07    $13.35    
   
9    52325-SFY-J01    LINK, L. RR. STABILIZER    1    $19.07    $13.35    
   
9    52325-SDA-A01    LINK, L. RR. STABILIZER    1    $19.07    $13.35

(http://cdn.revolutionparts.com/ill2.php?d=5fcd9&i=0000242427410a050312101c1510121075124b&t=1396465518&make=honda)

   

I should note I have the TL-S front and rear sway bars.  I can't remember if the end links were changed or not for the install.  

Yes to both questions.

IIRC, the TL front end links are larger and stronger. They use larger "bolts", so you would need to drill out the hole in your front LCA.

Just a FYI, a lot of shops may be lazy and tell you to order a new lower control arm instead of replacing the bushings. Make sure they don't charge you for a replacement.

Thanks guys. 

Z, can you be more specific about these ball joints, I'm having trouble finding them. 

Check your motor mounts as well. Make sure they are in good condition without any tears or any fluid leaking from them. Also, check wheel bearings. Make sure they aren't loose. A loose wheel bearing can cause a vibration, but it'll be accompanied by a howling/groaning type of noise.

Lower Ball Joints = 51220-SDA-305   

As for the upper ball joints, it is sold with the control arms.

51460-SDA-A01 Left
51450-SDA-A01 Right   

Thanks!   I'll need two of those lower ball joints right?

Correct. Sorry I didn't get to the balljoint locating sooner Ike. Thankfully, Thien backed me up.

Yes, you'll need 2 lower ball joints. One on each side. Be sure to look over both inner and outer tie rods. Over time the joint on either one will wear out and start to have play in them. A simple shake of the wheels from side to side will determine if those are going bad or not.

Okay, noob question, if I get new upper and lower control arms, do I still need new upper and lower ball joints? I'm not sure if these ball joints are part of the control arms or not.

Yes for the lower and no for the upper.

Okay.  I think I have everything now. 

So my list includes:

1. Motor mounts 3x
2. Front lower ball joints 2x
3. Upper control arm with ball joint 2x
4. Lower control arm with bushing 2x
5. Sway bar end links 4x

$525 from rockauto.com

(http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/ikethegreat/4_zps305c2715.png)

That should keep your mechanic busy for a bit.

Are the front lower ball joints the same thing as a front ball joint camber kit? 

No. Front ball joint camber kit is the upper ball joints that you can replace to adjust camber on.

Thanks to some idiot on the highway this morning, I had to do some hard braking from 70mph to about 30mph and my car shuddered and shook very badly.  I highly doubt it is due to the rotors since they are only 8 months old and are a quality brand, not some cheap ebay shit.  Could some worn suspension part be causing this?  

If it does turn out to be the rotors, this would be my third warped set in the four years I've had my RL bbk...

Did your car shudder under normal braking after that happened?  If it did, then it's the rotors.  If it didn't, it's probably something else and could be the suspension.  If you have worn or damaged bushings, that could be the cause of it.  Compliance bushings are known to wear out easily.

It does shudder under normal braking a bit.  The whole car vibrates at high speed without having to brake though so I thought it might be related to that. 

I'm tempted to get rid of the RL BBK, I can't be replacing warped rotors every freaking year or two. 

check your axles, I think milan had the same issue even though he swap back to stock setup

gs set up + cash...

I've had the RL calipers for years and never had an issue with warped rotors. I'm pretty sure I drive my car a little harder than you too.

It could be the rotors that you're using. I know that when I used the garbage Duralast rotors from Auto Zone on the Fit, they always warped. I switched to Honda rotors and they've been fine.

I'm going to worry about the suspension stuff before I do anything with the brakes. 

I purchased the four endlinks and the front ball joints.  The rear endlinks seems pretty easy to replace from the video I watched so I might give those a shot myself.  Have not seen a DIY for the front ones but hopefully they are easy as well.

LCAs will be bought when I get paid this week and then I think I'll get the Skunk2 UCAs the following paycheck.  Then I got to find a place that won't rape me to install the LCAs, UCAs, front ball joints, and axles. 

I'm guessing you still have the oem end links. Pb blast/wd40 and soak them overnight. They have a crappy design which needs an hex key to hold the stud while you loosen the nut. DON'T STRIP THE HEX KEY IN THE STUD. GL

on mine there wasn't any hex hole left ( rusty from winters in canada) , broke the ball housings and used some visegrip on the ball to prevent the ball from turning. they were gonna go in the trash anyway.

Good advice right there.  This is one of the main reasons why I prefer aftermarket end links.  Less bullshit when it comes to removing the end links because they don't use the silly allen head bolt to hold it when you tighten the nut.

I burnt mine out... Nothing a little torch won't fix...

In the garage its called a "smoke wrench".

My Raybestos Professional Grade LCAs just arrived from Rockauto.  I took the first one out of the box, inspected the compliance bushing and noticed a small tear that goes all the way through on both the top and bottom of the bushing.  I though the bushing was damaged until I took the second LCA out of the box and noticed the bushing was torn on the top and bottom of this one as well.  So now I'm just confused as to whether this is normal or not. 

So folks, normal or defective?

LCA # 1

(http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/ikethegreat/lca1a_zpsf15443ac.jpg)

(http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/ikethegreat/lca1b_zps581109f3.jpg)



LCA #2

(http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/ikethegreat/lca2a_zpsbba5d848.jpg)

(http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/ikethegreat/lca2b_zpsd75abb38.jpg)

Those aren't in the "working" part of the rubber. Its from the mold when they poured the rubber in. Nothing to worry about.

Well that is a relief, thanks Z.

No worries.