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Hey guys didn't find any threads (mostly because I have no clue what I'm lookin at). I noticed recently that my car is leaving small spots where I park, both on the driveway and at work. I had it up on stands last weekend and tried to see but I'm not sure if it's the transmission case or the engine oil pan. I didn't see anything dripping from the engine oil plug which I had opened recently for an oil change. I took a couple of pictures but it was cramped (my jack didn't go any higher) but if someone could help me identify it, it would be great.

Pic one is taken directly underneath the leak spot, it's on the driver's side of the vehicle
(http://i1079.photobucket.com/albums/w516/Fanitron/IMAG0143.jpg)

Pic two is take from the passenger side looking towards the leak spot
(http://i1079.photobucket.com/albums/w516/Fanitron/IMAG0144.jpg)

Again, I know these pics are crap but it was the best I could manage given the tight space... if you guys can't tell, I will try to get better pictures this weekend. Thanks for the help!

Check your front motor mount. I'm assuming you checked all fluids and they are full? The front motor mount is oil filled, and when mine went there was oil everywhere. You can't really see it because there is a dust cover on the mount.

Oh yea forgot to mention, I did check my engine oil and it was fine just below the top line on the dip stick. Couldn't really check the trans oil since I had just driven the car and it was HOT lol but I will take a look at that also. What would be the easiest way to find that mount/determine if it's leaking?

Put a jack with a board on it under the engine and jack it up a little bit. See if the engine lifts off the mount. Also, visually inspect it for cracks. Also see if just below the mount is wet.

Or do the motor mount test. You will need 2 people to do this to check if motor mounts are worn out. Have one person sit in the car. Have the driver press and hold the brake pedal. Put the car in gear and give it gas. This is called power braking, and what it does is rock the engine back and or forth. You can then tell if the motor mounts are worn by seeing how much movement the engine moves during the power brake test. If motor mounts are good, engine should only move about 1 inch max. Be sure to do it in Drive and Reverse (1st and Reverse for manual)

If the mount is fine pull the little steel cover between the engine and trans, if it is wet on the inside then your rear main seal on the engine is leaking....

Hey those pictures look like ones I took of oil in that same spot, except I have one with the steel cover off also.  I'm leaning towards rear main seal. Keep an eye on your engine oil over the next few weeks. You should also check the valve cover gasket on the back (side closest to the firewall) and it's running down from there.

I was waiting for you to chime in Rich. Looking at those pictures leads me to your same conclusion. I just figured since Thien, Mike and Paul basically said the same things, there was no point in rehashing.

Thanks for the input.. I will try to take a look, hopefully tonight after work or this weekend. I tried to see if the mount was the issue this morning, it seems to be completely dry so I don't think it is the source of the oil. Will keep you guys updated once I get under there today. One question, what's the easiest way to pull that steel cover? From above through the engine bay or underneath the car?

It is just 2 10mm head bolts then a flat screw driver to pry it off.

That's the black coloured plate that's in the second picture correct?

Can't really tell from your pics on my phone. I will post the pics and clip I sent to Paul awhile back when mine started. Sorry I didn't start a thread on this, could have saved you some time.

No worries bro. I guess this thread will help out anyone else in future who may encounter a similar problem.  :)

Correct.

How hard is changing the rear main seal?

Transmission has to be removed in order to get to the seal. Its not really a DIY repair.

Unless you happen to have a lift and a transmission jack.

Not real hard to change the actual seal, what sucks is you have to pull the trans to get to it.........

Yea, I was speaking with a friend tonight at our meet and he says the PITA is having to remove the tranny in order to change the seal. Guess I'll be burning a hole in my wallet for this one... unless I just keep topping up oil and wait to do a MT swap???  >:D

I actually have a AV6 MT trans sitting here.

 ??? if you were closer I would be there already. If anything this will have to wait a while due to travel concerns. What city are you in anyway?

Leesburg VA, just outside DC.

Mike, You only have to pull the engine, piece of cake ;D

Sorry didn't notice Paul was logged on

LOL I have no engine lift... this will have to be taken to a shop I think. Just google mapped and it's a 9hr drive down to Leesburg so def can't do that any time soon.  :(

It really isn't that hard to pull the motor.

I'll actually be driving through your town Paul in about four hours.  Visiting my buddy in Centreville for the weekend. I didn't know he lived so close to the King of Accords.  Maybe one time I can stop by and check out your work and maybe start a project of my own.

We can figure something out. Right now the shop is a fabrication hole with SC parts all over the place while making all the additional pices to complete some M90 kits.....

Yup, like anything else for the backyard mechanic, having the right tools makes all the difference. The 3x that I've pulled a motor from a car it took me 2 long days. some of which included running to the store for tools or parts. Having a pro do it is 1-1.5 days tops. I've seen Paul in action and he didn't even break a sweat. We even had time to pick up some burgers and have a little BBQ.

Anyway, here are the pics of mine when it started leaking (pics are a little out of focus):
Cover off
(http://i611.photobucket.com/albums/tt191/rich-01/IMAG0013.jpg)

(http://i611.photobucket.com/albums/tt191/rich-01/IMAG0012.jpg)

(http://i611.photobucket.com/albums/tt191/rich-01/IMAG0010.jpg)

You may want to check here as well, very unlikely though
(http://i611.photobucket.com/albums/tt191/rich-01/IMAG0143.jpg)
That's when I nipped the axle seal on the transmission after replacing the axle.

I think my wife timed me once and I had gotten the power train out of a AV6 in 2.75 hours as my current record. The first time I did one of these was before I had a lift and it took me a long full day.

So if I have access to an engine lift would I be able to do this on my own? I'd love to be able to save some money if it's not TOO much PITA to DIY.

Have you ever pulled an engine before? Manuals are your friend if you haven't and from the sound of your reply, its apparent you haven't before. BTW, it is a PITA for a little ass seal.

This is not a job for the inexperienced DIYr, you need good tools and knowledge. There are several ways to really screw things up if you don't know what you are looking for. You also need to be prepared to not have the car for up to a week to allow for mr murphy to show up and screw things up for you (ie, breaking a bolt, nicking a axel seal, breaking a sensor plug pulling the engine/trans out, finding another problem). Then to top it all off when you go to pull the old seal out if you put the slightest nick in the crank you are totally screwed and will need a new crank/engine in order to keep from chewing up seals. Is this diyable, yes, is it for the beginner/lesser experienced, oh hell no.

LOL nope I haven't done it before... this is the first car that I've ever attempted any DIY's on (it's the first car that's actually mine). From Paul's post it seems this should not be something that I try as a first engine work DIY either. Damn, I guess this is going into a shop... mod plans must now be delayed.  :(

have you checked the other things suggested... The seal should be your last option! Check the simple shit first.

Yeah, I checked the mounts and they're bone dry. Also my fluid levels haven't changed too much over the last week so my guess is the leak is very slow ATM. I have no actually taken the little steel plate off yet but from what Paul and Rich are saying about it and when I was under the car last weekend, that is definitely where the oil is seeping from so once I get that cover off I will be able to confirm the source of the leak.

Leak has been confirmed. Rear main seal will be replaced next week.

Let us know the cost man.

I was quoted $700.. they are dropping the subframe to get the transmission out rather than pulling the engine, which means there's also an alignment after everything is put back together. Depending on any other worn parts on either the suspension or engine the costs could increase of course.  :mad:

Thats not to bad.

My parents use these guys, it's a local shop and they're pretty fair with prices and always use OEM rather than cheap aftermarket. I've seen some other people say they've been quoted much higher than that so I'm not too upset about it. Really it had to be done since my driveway is looking so shitty from all the oil drips.

Yeah. It still sucks that that kind of money is being forked out for a $10 part though.

Yup. They guy even told me the part was only $40 from Honda. lol he's like "you're at 123K KM.. I guess it's about time" lol Do you think I should ask him to swap out my mounts while he's at it or can I just do those myself?

May as well have him do the trans, and rear mounts he is back there any way.

Finally taking it Paul next week to get this and a few other things fixed.

Rich, you've got that leak too??

What else are you getting done?  Any goodies?? I'm jealous!

Yeah, the 2nd set of pics are of my car. Unfortunately, no goodies with this trip. Still in the 2yr plan though.

Finally got the car back today.. No more leak!  :)

Add me to the no more leak list ;)