EliteCM.net

Tools Required

1. Jack
2. Jack Stands
3. Ratchet with 14mm, and 32mm sockets
4. Various Punches, and Chisels
5. Hammer
6. Torque Wrench with at least 134 ft/lb rating
7. Impact (Optional)

First jack up the car and place jack stands on both sides. Make sure the car is well supported because you will be using a hammer at some point.

Sorry about the effects of the outside light on the photo but, this shows were I like to support the car when I'm working in the rear.
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f173/lavalleemike/Hub%20bearing/Jackup.jpg)

Next remove the wheel from the side you are working

(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f173/lavalleemike/Hub%20bearing/RemoveWheel.jpg)

Remove the caliper, brake pads and caliper bracket (All the bolts on my calipers and brackets are 14mm I believe that OEM calipers are two different sizes)
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f173/lavalleemike/Hub%20bearing/Caliper.jpg)

At this point remove the rotor set screws and set the rotor aside.
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f173/lavalleemike/Hub%20bearing/PadsandBracket.jpg)

Alot of people suggest an impact driver for removing the set screws I've always had great luck with this.
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f173/lavalleemike/Hub%20bearing/Toolforset.jpg)

After the rotor is gone the next step is to remove the dust caper covering the hub nut
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f173/lavalleemike/Hub%20bearing/Rotorremoved.jpg)

Do this by tapping a chisel into the cap between the cap and the hub. Tap it a few times and rotate to keep it moving out uniformly.
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f173/lavalleemike/Hub%20bearing/Dustcapremoval.jpg)

I used an assortment of chisels to get it moving but, the shield came out pretty easily.
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f173/lavalleemike/Hub%20bearing/Hammerandchisels.jpg)

Next step is to un stake the hub nut (Basically remove the dent in the top of the nut) I used various punches to un stake it.
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f173/lavalleemike/Hub%20bearing/Pnchestounseataxlenut.jpg)

Basically wedge a  punch in the gap and tap it with a hammer until its free to move
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f173/lavalleemike/Hub%20bearing/Wheretobangtounseat.jpg)
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f173/lavalleemike/Hub%20bearing/Unseating.jpg)

After the nut is un staked remove it and you can see the outside of the bearing
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f173/lavalleemike/Hub%20bearing/Remove32mmhubnut.jpg)
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f173/lavalleemike/Hub%20bearing/Nutremoved.jpg)

Next step is to grab the outside of the hub and pull. If your unlucky like me the inner bearing race with stay with the car causing a little more work.
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f173/lavalleemike/Hub%20bearing/Innerracestuck.jpg)
Evidence that the race is stuck is that you can see the inside of the bearing like this
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f173/lavalleemike/Hub%20bearing/Oldvsnew.jpg)

I loosened the dust shield to allow myself a little more room to work on the inner race.
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f173/lavalleemike/Hub%20bearing/threeboltsfordustshield.jpg)

After this tap the edge of the inner  race outward with a hammer and chisel. If it doesn't come off you will need to use a bearing splitter but, this is very rare. After the inner race is off clean the area very well and ensure that there is no burring on the flat surface the bearing mounts against.
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f173/lavalleemike/Hub%20bearing/cleansurface.jpg)

Slide the new hub assembly onto the spindle and then torque the hub nut (32mm) to 134 ft/lbs. After this use a punch to re stake the nut to ensure it cannot come loose.

(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f173/lavalleemike/Hub%20bearing/Installnut134ftlbsandreseat.jpg)

Re apply the dust cap by tapping around the sides evenly.
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f173/lavalleemike/Hub%20bearing/Usepunchtoreapplydustcap.jpg)

Re install the caliper bracket, pads and caliper. and put your wheel back on. Doing this took me a little more than an hour, and I was taking my sweet as time...






 

Great write-up!  Would be a great time to do extended studs. 

Good write up. Considered it sticky my friend.

Thanks guys I like to provide this type of information because I assume as our cars get older more and more people are going to run into these things.

I was going to do one myself, but I never had a chance to replace one on either my own car or a customers car.

The fronts are harder to do because you have to press the bearing out. I've done 2, but I dont think its much of a DIY without a shop press.

Good write up!  I remember doing the bearings on my drums and it was slightly different.  Thien is right about the front.  I'll be doing mine soon, but don't think a DIY is going to be possible for 99% of the people here.

Great write up Mike!

@Tim- What are the slight differences for the drum brakes?

It's been a few years.  I think maybe the difference was removing the drums or something.  I'll look in the service manual and see.

In Tim's case, all you really have to do is remove the drum. Its a lot easier on drum brakes then it is on disc brake to remove and replace the rear hub/bearing.

How many miles were on your car when you changed it and did you go with a Honda bearing assembly or an after-market replacement?

Thanks Gents! :thumbsup:

Thank You Mike for this write up, very useful and saved me on a very annoying and loud bad bearing.

Glad you liked it.