EliteCM.net

Kit
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m77/thisaznboi88/cd3bc97b.jpg)
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m77/thisaznboi88/4fe480ba.jpg)
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m77/thisaznboi88/deb5a018.jpg)
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m77/thisaznboi88/a8867ca2.jpg)
tank
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m77/thisaznboi88/e12d398b.jpg)

ill be running the signal off the injectors pulse.
this is my kit and jet size are .5mm *h2o*, .6mm *70/30 meth*, and .7mm *50/50 meth*.

Aquamist HFS-2 Injection System (http://www.howertonengineering.net/products/Aquamist-HFS%252d2-Injection-System.html)
Water Injection Project (http://www.karlsnet.com/mopar/waterinjection.shtml)

here a video from AEM.
How Water/Methanol Injection Works & How It Makes Horsepower in Gas Engines - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HkPFZWd8wj4#ws)
Now what I really want from this mod is to have a cleaner engine and have it run a little bit cooler. Since you did see that my p2r gasket did get melted, and even after swapping to a Magnesium IM. Heat soak is still a *****. Now with that being said I really think that the will enjoy the W/M since it will help somewhat with temperature. Remember our cars have the cats on the head in the engine bay. Most cars have the cats near the end of the headers closer to the ground. I believe the ultimate cooling mod really helped out with the OP car, and he also relocated to the IAT and the car felt better.

Now there is not too much research being posted on W/M on N/A cars. Most are used on boosted cars to lower extreme IAT and to combat knocking. So I am going to be doing a few testing and posting the results. Eventually, I would like to have the car dyno without meth and with Meth. Hopefully there is some power to be gain from preventing the car from pulling timing. E.G driving the car in the summer vs driving it in the winter.

this is the tank I will be running
2.5 Gallon Sumped Tank (http://www.alcohol-injection.com/en/tanks/346-25-gallon-sumped-tank.html)

That's a big ass tank.  GL with this.

^^ Agreed.  Where do you plan on locating it exactly?

tank in that location in the trunk. Tank + pump semi assembled

(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m77/thisaznboi88/e0f447fe.jpg)

(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m77/thisaznboi88/cb2f3ba4.jpg)
gauge goes here
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m77/thisaznboi88/25d74e92.jpg)
Will be using E4 (IGP) and E31 (INJ2) for the signals. Special thanks to Thien and Jeff @ HowertonEngineering for answering all my wiring questions.
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m77/thisaznboi88/598e02da.jpg)
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m77/thisaznboi88/7thgen_av6_6mt_ecu_pinout5.jpg)

Special Thanks to Tim for telling me how to feed the wiring for my car.

Going to be installing it 2m
going to wire some of it up tomorrow

(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m77/thisaznboi88/4156e79f.jpg)
fast acting valve.
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m77/thisaznboi88/ee777d30.jpg)

I have most of the kit hooked up now, but the fuse blew on the control unit... Stupid 5x20mm fuse is so hard to buy. Right now I have almost a 50/50 water meth ratio in the tank right now. I will have pix of how i ran the hose tomorrow, and probably video by Friday.   

Here some more update. Damn there is a major difference in power when the methanol kicks in. I have it set to trigger at 20% fuel injector pulse. It was set between the 2nd and 3rd tick line. I am using a .5mm nozzle. I didn't play with the gain yet, but I think the car  could use some more water/meth. Run 50/50 mixture if you want the best of both world. Car is using 91 OCT.

First of all the car feels faster and has more tq. Before it would feel like its making a lot of noise, but the response want a little bit slow. Especially when it goes into VTEC is sounds fucken Awesome, but it wasn't super fast. But now its just like o shit my ass is pushed back into the seat

test video
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m77/thisaznboi88/th_128b6bdc.jpg) (http://s101.photobucket.com/albums/m77/thisaznboi88/?action=view&current=128b6bdc.mp4)

line to the p2r spacer. *P2R spacer threads were shit. Someone obiouvly doesn't know how to properly thread a 1/8 NPT size hole. I had to use my tap and die set to retread the hole. This is the second time a P2R product as cause me issue. Anyways, I am running it without the white thermal gasket so there is some clearance issue with the Nozzle/hose hitting the control unit on the TB.

(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m77/thisaznboi88/IMG_0681.jpg)
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m77/thisaznboi88/IMG_0680.jpg)

Here is where I mounted the fast acting valve
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m77/thisaznboi88/IMG_0677.jpg)
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m77/thisaznboi88/IMG_0674.jpg)

Here is where I ran the line from the tank to
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m77/thisaznboi88/IMG_0676.jpg)

Here is where my control box for the W/M is. I will be tucking it behind the glove box.
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m77/thisaznboi88/IMG_0679.jpg)

Okay so here is my theory on why the car feels faster. First cooler IAT, secondly higher Octane level which reduces knock. Thus preventing timing from being pulled. Thirdly when the mist goes into the cylinder it expands after compression and helps push the piston back down, and lastly lower Exhaust Gas Temperature.

All these in combination work with the car ECU to achieve optimum parameters so that the car can and will run at its full potential. The ECU is smart and knows if you full one parameter is can look up the other sensor and see if it matches up. If it doesn't it detune things. For example trimming fuel only with the Apexi Neo. now if you trick the system as a whole. The car will be like hmm okay I guess it true.