EliteCM.net

So, I was able to get this swap knocked out this weekend.  The major part of this is swapping out the rear knuckles.  I didn't take pictures of the ebrake cable swap because I didn't have a camera guy for that part and I couldn't get any good pictures from underneath.  I had used ebrake cables, which are giving me a problem right now, so I will be changing them in a few weeks.  I will update this thread with part numbers and the ebrake cable swap when I have more time.

You'll want to start off by putting your car on jack stands and removing the rear wheels.  After that, soak everything with PB blaster or the of penetrating spay of your choice.

I started by removing the end links first.  Mine are aftermarket, so I didn't have have the allen head bolt like OEM.  I was able to hold the end link bolt with an open end wrench, and zip the nut off with an impact gun.  I believe I was using a 14mm socket on this.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Rear%20Brake%20Swap/001.jpg)
This is a close up of where the end link nut is.  
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Rear%20Brake%20Swap/001zoom.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Rear%20Brake%20Swap/002.jpg)
Here's one side of the end link removed and moved out of the way.  You don't need to remove it from the sway bar.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Rear%20Brake%20Swap/003.jpg)
Next I removed the retaining clip for the castle nut for the ball joint on the upper arm.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Rear%20Brake%20Swap/004.jpg)
Then I removed the castle nut with a 17mm impact socket, with a wobbly extension for clearance.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Rear%20Brake%20Swap/005.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Rear%20Brake%20Swap/006.jpg)
I used a prybar and a hammer to get the ball joint loose.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Rear%20Brake%20Swap/007.jpg)
I used a 17mm pivot socket to get the upper leading arm bolt loose, but finished the job with a 17mm gear wrench.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Rear%20Brake%20Swap/008.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Rear%20Brake%20Swap/009.jpg)
Then I moved on and removed the rear shock bolt with a 17mm socket.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Rear%20Brake%20Swap/010.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Rear%20Brake%20Swap/011.jpg)
Remove the control arm nut with a 17mm socket.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Rear%20Brake%20Swap/012.jpg)
Remove the lower arm nut with a 17mm socket while holding the bolt in place with a 17mm open end wrench.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Rear%20Brake%20Swap/013.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Rear%20Brake%20Swap/014.jpg)
Then back out the bolt with the impact gun and the same 17mm open end wrench you used to hold the bolt in place when removing the nut.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Rear%20Brake%20Swap/015.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Rear%20Brake%20Swap/016.jpg)
Then remove the bolt for the trailing arm with a 17mm socket.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Rear%20Brake%20Swap/017.jpg)
At this point the knuckle is free, but you still need to remove the ABS sensor connector.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Rear%20Brake%20Swap/018.jpg)
Bend down the ABS sensor cable bracket to get to the bolt holding it and remove it with a 10mm gear wrench.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Rear%20Brake%20Swap/019.jpg)
Disconnect the brake line last so you don't lose too much fluid.  Make sure you use a 10mm flare nut wrench.  DO NOT USE AN OPEN ENDED WRENCH.  If you do, you will round the nut and need to replace your entire brake line.  Make sure that you hit this with penetrating spray also, because that area seemed to be gunked up really bad and I almost bent my hard line.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Rear%20Brake%20Swap/020.jpg)
Unbolt the bracket that holds the brake line with a 12mm socket and remove the soft line from the hard line.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Rear%20Brake%20Swap/021.jpg)
I took a used rubber glove and zip tied it to the brake line so it wouldn't leak everywhere.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Rear%20Brake%20Swap/022.jpg)
Then remove the ebrake cable bracket from the trailing arm with a 12mm socket.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Rear%20Brake%20Swap/023.jpg)
At this point, everything is disconnected, so you can pull the knuckle out.  This is how it should look when you're done.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Accord%20Pics/Mechanical/Rear%20Brake%20Swap/024.jpg)

After that, reverse the steps to bolt everything back up.  Connect the ABS sensor and brake lines last.  After you have done both sides, replace the proportioning valve located in the engine bay below your brake master cylinder.  Then bleed your brakes and call it a day.

I will try to include some more steps for replacing the ebrake cable, but it really isn't that hard to pull off if you have a little common sense.

Awesome stuff Tim. Can't wait to see it complete.

Thanks for the DIY Tim, now i can tackle this project with out worries :) well less worries then before :laugh:

The Flare nut wrench became my best friend after installing a new master cylinder in the GF's Camry last week. This is a must have tool for any job involving brake or fuel lines. It's worth the $5 - $7 to pick one up. Awesome write up Tim!

so... what setup did you use for the rear since you have dual piston legend front calipers? btw, nice tigers hat.

I used the OEM calipers with Paul's big brake caliper bracket and Pilot rear rotors.  The Legend calipers in the front will be replaced with RL calipers and larger rotors for the front when my wheel spacers arrive.

I have to stay true to my roots and rock a Tigers hat.  I have been known to wear Red Sox hats also.

I likey.

Hmm, I was wondering. If you're going with a larger rotor but keeping the same caliper, wouldn't that accomplish nothing since you still have the same amount of pad area grabbing the rotor? Maybe I'm missing something here. Do you plan on upgrading the calipers down the road?

Not really.  Larger rotors mean that the calipers biting on the rotors have more leverage.

Ahhh okay, I can see it now. Thanks for clarifying.

So if you have oem-ish sized brakes up front like myself (Brembo blanks/Hawk pads), and you upgrade from drums to discs in the rear, will this throw the overall braking "balance" of the car off at all?

No.  There is one thing that I'm not sure I mentioned.  You need to replace the proportioning valve with one from the EX.

Tim did you notice improvement in braking when you made the swap in the rear?

That's kinda hard to say.  I had no pad left on the front, so it really wouldn't be an accurate comparison.  To be honest, I did this mostly for looks. 

I wanna do this mod, but your pics are down :(.

Is there a way you can correct the links...?

I moved pictures around in my photobucket account, so it broke the links.  They should be fixed now though.

Thanks for updating the pics Timot_One

No problem.

When talking to my mechanic today about doing a project like this (because I saw him doing a rear conversion on a Jeep last week) and mentioning that on the Accord, you'd need to install the proportioning valve from the EX (according to Tim), my mechanic mentioned that you can get in-line type proportioning valves for each rear brake line that may be cheaper than getting an upgraded one for the EX.  He said companies like Baer or other cheap, aftermarket Autozone-type companies (I know, I know) might make some.  Thoughts here?

The proportioning valve for the EX is only $21 from Majestic.  I highly doubt any aftermarket proportioning valve would be as good.  I'm not sure how an inline proportioning valve would work either.  A proportioning valve basically distributes the proper amount of pressure to the front and rear brakes.  I guarantee an aftermarket one is more expensive, and that it's going to have to be adjusted properly.  Why not just buy the $21 part and bolt it in?

I only had gotten vague details about the idea, but figured I'd just present it as another option should someone need it... if it even exists.  I'd just get the $21 oem part too since it's so cheap and straight-forward.  Sawy.

The mechanic that told you that, probably didn't realize the cost of the OEM part compared to an aftermarket replacement.  Realistically, it's not a practical solution. 

Yeh I realize that now.  He's still a good guy though cuz he's helped me out a lot.

I'll need a parts list with part numbers for this project... very soon...

This is pretty much a complete parts list of what you need if you buy everything brand new.  I'd suggest buying the knuckle and caliper assemblies complete from a junk yard.  I'd buy the parking brake cables, brake lines, rotors and pads new.

52210-SDC-A60
52215-SDC-A60
43018-SDA-A00
43019-SDA-A00
42200-SDA-A51 x2
42326-SLJ-000 x2
42510-SDA-A00 x2
43253-SDA-A51
43254-SDA-A51
90103-SV4-013 x4
90305-S30-003 x2
93600-06014-0H x4
95701-06012-08 x6
47510-SDA-A52
47560-SDA-A52
46470-S5T-E01
01466-SDA-A50
01468-SDA-A50

^ Thanks for the parts list Tim.  Do we have a complete how-to anywhere showing the e-brake cables swap?  Also, what are some rotor and caliper options that can be used here, or is there only one (oem calipers and Pilot rotors)?

If you want bigger rotors, you can buy the bracket from Paul and Pilot rotors.  Other than that, there are only aftermarket options, which are expensive.

Damn.  From your list, it looks like you went the custom bracket from Paul/Pilot rotors route.  But you can't just use the rotors from the EX?  Also, e-brake cables swap how-to?

Yes, I did go with Paul's bracket and Pilot rotors, reusing the OEM calipers.  You can of course use OEM rotors without Paul's bracket.

The parking brake cable swap is fairly simple.  What you need to do is remove the cable at the drum and work your way forward.  There are a few brackets that hold the cables to the chassis that you'll need to unbolt.  There is a rubber grommet where the cables pass through into the cabin that can be a pain to remove.  You need to remove the center console/armrest to get access to where the cables attach to the parking brake handle.  It's really not that big of a deal to replace the parking brake cables.

OK.  The biggest pita if I do the e-brake cables will probably be removing the center console since my beefy, aftermarket Momo e-brake handle will make it hard to get out.  Maybe I can get in from the back access panel somehow.

Not gonna happen that way Dave.  You've gotta pull the center console up to get access to the cables.

Super.

Its not that bad dude.

It is with his set up.  He has an aftermarket ebrake handle cover and shift knob that makes things difficult.

Oh. That's different. In that case, its going to be a huge pain in the dick Dave. I wish you the best.

When do you plan on doing this Dave? Your more then welcome to come over and use the Garage again if you want.

I have no idea.  It's a ways down the to-do list at this point.  Although I do remember you having some key parts for this swap in your garage.  Are you ever going to use them, or would you contemplate selling?

ROR!!  He scored a sweet ass deal on those "key parts".  :D

haha I did score a sweet ass deal on them.

Yea Dave im planning on using them. Im planning on stocking up on parts for this over the winter and doing the swap in the spring.

Dooo eeiiittt.

OK.  Maybe, if we both get all the parts at about the same time, we can do this swap on both our cars simultaneously.

You guys should totally hold hands while you're doing it too!! :kiss:

I knew someone was gonna drop a comment like that.

Hey read the whole How-To but still have a question...

Did you swap any of the arms that hold the knuckles in place or just the knuckles? If not then that will make things fairly simple, also would you recommend an impact wrench?

You sure you were you paying attention when you were reading it?  Both of your questions are answered in the OP.  Take a closer look at the pictures.

What was the rough cost of the entire project?

Plan on spending about $250-300 when you take into consideration the cost of all the parts involved.  Here's what I paid:

$100 - both rear knuckles
$100 - both rear calipers w/parking brake cables (had to replace the cables later on)
$10-20 - proportioning valve
$50-100 - rotors and pads

Timothy, so I am planning to do this project but I had something a bit different If possible, I would like to swap my entire brake setup for a 08 TL Type-S.  I found a wrecked one nearby where I live and could pick up all four brake calipers (Brembos) both rear knuckles and front brackets needed.. And the junk yard place is telling 800 for everything.

What do you think, is it possible? And is it. Good deal?

It may be possible. I've never done it myself though. The Brembo front brake set up from a TL Type S may not be a direct bolt on to the Accord knuckles. At that point you would have to swap out the TL Type S knuckles and possibly the upper and lower control arms. That would end up affecting the geometry of your suspension. From what I recall your wheels would be pushed out and you would have excess negative camber for a street car.

I don't think anyone has done this on an Accord yet. I only know of one person that did this on a 1st gen TSX, but he swapped out the sub frame and had it modified for the proper geometry.

 :( darn I was hoping it would be simple swap..   :'(

But to be  the first person to do this would be kind of cool

Give it a. Try and let us know how it works out. Nobody will ever know until you try it. I didn't mean to discourage you. I say go for it if you're willing to invest the time and energy on attempting it. Just be sure to plan for problems.

i have seen it done before on a v6 accord coupe, the person that did the swap mentioned that the parts needed would be:

Acura TL/TL-S 04-08

45018-SEP-A60 Right Caliper $300+-
45019-SEP-A60 Left Caliper $300+-

44600-SEP-A01 Hub x 2 $42+- x2

51210-SEP-A01 Knuckle Assembly Right 206+-
51215-SEP-A01 Knuckle Assembly Left 206+-

Stainless steel Brake lines $100

pads 60-300 depending on pad choice
rotors 100x2


those prices are assuming you buy them new, but from a junkyard much cheaper.

couldnt find any close up pics of the brakes (for some reason the thread were i found the info is no longer up ) but if you look closely you can see the calipers and i know for a fact they are the tl-s brembos as i have seen the car in person and know the owner.

(http://photos.motoiq.com/Event-Coverage/RTA-Auto-Club-Speedway-05-28/i-VBtXLxW/0/L/DKAR1279-L.jpg)

The rear brakes won't be an easy task to do. The Accords uses an integrated e-brake caliper while the TL uses an e-brake shoe. You would need to swap e-brake cable, knuckle, rotors, calipers, and the porportioning valve.

Wow,  thanks guys very informative.  I will hold back right now since money is tight but once I pull the triger to buy all the parts needed I will definately do a write up on this.

If you don't want to deal with the mess that Thien mentioned, you could always ask Paul for one of his brackets, and use Honda Pilot rotors in the rear. I don't remember if we have a thread for that option though. That way you still get a performance increase in the rear.

Well, I think I'm ready to get this project going soon (maybe start next weekend), so I want to make sure I have all my ducks in order as this task is going to be 50% preparation.  Below is, I think, a complete parts list, but feel free to chime in before I whip out the Visa.  I think I'm opting against the bigger Pilot rotors and Paul's brackets and just gonna go with an EX-equivalent setup as I just have the Legend setup up front.  I'm also going aftermarket on my rotors and pads to match my fronts, so that'll up my costs a bit.  Check list below:


Right rear knuckle  52210-SDC-A60 (already acquired)
Left rear knuckle  52215-SDC-A60 (already acquired)
Right rear caliper  43018-SDA-A00 (get brand new or remanufactured?  Doesn't seem to have much of a price difference.)
Left rear caliper  43019-SDA-A00 (get brand new or remanufactured?  Doesn't seem to have much of a price difference.)
Rear hub unit bearing assembly  42200-SDA-A51 x2 (I think I already have these too)
Hub unit cap  42326-SLJ-000 (x2)
Rear brake rotor  42510-SDA-A00 (x2) (going with Accord EX equivalent aftermarket EBC Ultimaxx setup to match fronts and be baller)
Right rear splash guard  43253-SDA-A51
Left rear splash guard  43254-SDA-A51
Flange bolt  90103-SV4-013 (x4)
Spindle nut  90305-S30-003 (x2)
Flat screw  93600-06014-0H (x4)
Flange bolt  95701-06012-08 (x6)
Right parking brake cable  47510-SDA-A52
Left parking brake cable  47560-SDA-A52
Four-way joint  46470-S5T-E01 (you really need this?  Is this the EX proportioning valve?)
Right rear brake line set  01466-SDA-A50 (would like to go stainless steel... anyone have a set to sell?)
Left rear brake line set  01468-SDA-A50 (would like to go stainless steel... anyone have a set to sell?)
Proportioning valve  46210-S5A-812 (I think this is the right one... but it's $55 now?!  Actually, this might be for the LX.)

Anything missing from this list, or other little odds, ends, bolts and screws I should invest in just to be safe?

Also still need:
flare nut wrench
impact socket
couple bottles of brake fluid
caliper paint
brake fluid bleeder bottle
anti-anxiety medication

My goal is to start this swap next weekend, work on the car when I can, and experience no more than 2 weeks downtime.  Anyone local want to help for cash, food and beer?  Heated garage.

I might have a little time next sat.

From what i remember from doing tims swap and from planning this swap my self a lot of the bolts and what not carry over. Im up in maine for the weekend with only my phone but once i get back home ill dig back through my notebooks and see if i can find all the part numbers for what i was planning and compare it to your list. I should be around next weekend to help but i cant do a lot of heavy work with my bum shoulder right now but i can provide emotional support/be a tool bitch/technical consultant.

Let me know time and place.

Here you go Dave.

 :notbad:  Thanks for the check list corrections.  I was 90% right about what was needed verses not, but posted everything just to be safe.  Ordering stuff now since there's nothing else to do other than shovel right now.

Slowly progressing on this mod, but hitting snags.  I'm sore.

So, I'm well into doing the rear drum to disc swap, and have most of the new parts bolted up.  Today, I tried to finish off putting in the Accord EX e-brake lines.  Even with the adjustment bolt on the handle almost full loose, when I would connect one line to the caliper on one side of the car, the other side would have such little slack (because the connected one was pulling on the equalizer piece in the center console), that I wouldn't be able to reach the caliper to connect it.  So, I ended up unbolting the lines from under the car and got a bit more slack from that, and I now have the two lines connected at the calipers on both sides on those little arms.  However, the cables are so tight that my e-brake handle is all the way down, and the calipers are clamping down on the rotors.  I can't even pull the handle up, it's so tight.  I tried diagnosing, but am baffled.  I even checked over my work (make sure the calipers are on the right sides, make sure I put the e-brake cables on the right sides, etc  ::)).  Anyone got an ideas or run into this issue?  Is this to be expected until the system is filled and bled again (since I've completely drained my fluid for this project)?  If anyone has pics of what a functional EX rear caliper and e-brake cable connection looks like, feel free to post as I'm used to the drum setup up to this point and have rarely ever looked at a rear caliper design.

Are they new cables or used cables?

new...

Can someone post a photo of the cables running to their caliper so I can see how they're routed and clipped onto the caliper "hook"?

I hope that helps you out.

(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d199/7thGenVillian/02272010264.jpg)
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d199/7thGenVillian/02272010273.jpg)
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d199/7thGenVillian/IngallsRearCamberKitDIY10.jpg)

It's probably important to note that people with EX sedans should post pictures.  It's also important to mention that the rear trailing arm that the cable mounting bracket (the bracket is on the cable) bolts to has the mounting tab in a different location between the drum and disc rears.  It's not necessary to buy the part, you just need to slide the bracket down the cable for extra slack.

The pictures help a bit.  Those pics are from the driver's side setup, right?  It looks like the cable in your pics is routed under the Ingalls camber arm.  That's how I did mine too, but the line is so tight that it's pulling right against the arm.  Plus, my calipers seem to have a big hook piece on them that I don't see in your pics.

Ima try Tim's "move the brackets" method tmrw hopefully.

By chance are you a sedan trying to use coupe cables? Sedan cables are a bit longer.

I asked the same question and Dave said the cables are for the sedan, purchased new from Honda.  The issue is that the rear trailing arm (that has the mount for the cable bracket) is different between the drum and disc set ups.  The mount on the arm is in a different location between the two arms.  It's not really worth spending the $90-100 to get new rear trailing arms, since you can just move the bracket up the cable to get that extra slack.

Well, I took your advice Tim and moved the brackets a bit on both lines, and everything bolted up pretty good.  Thanks for the advice.  I adjusted the tension on the cables a bit too by messing with the adjustment nut in the center console, but I don't think I'll get a real accurate reading on that until the system has been filled and bled with the fluid.  In any event, I'd advise that somewhere in the how-to on the first page, this e-brake cable issue be mentioned for accuracy's sake.  All in all, I'm making progress on this mod, but still have a long way to go.  On to the new proportioning valve next, which looks like a bitch to replace, and then bleeding everyting and crossing my fingers that everything works once the car is back on the ground.

I knew the cable bracket relocation would work.  I'll text you some pictures tomorrow Dave. 

I finished this project last weekend.  Couldn't get the LX proportioning valve out, so it had to stay in.  Impressions pending...

Only took you three months.

 :finger:

Ok so I know this thing is like 2 years old but I just got here. I plan on swapping my drums out for disc brakes, I've been wondering if I could use a 02 tl-s or another acura as a donor instead. I have a 07 accord lx and a limited budget, approximately $500.

I think only a handful of people have done this conversion. Take a look at the service/parts diagrams and see if it's possible. I'm guessing that the Acura badge May inflation the price over the Honda part, regardless of age.

Good luck with your research and post what you find out.

I have done 03 AV6 to 05 TL rear conversion successfully, you will need the knuckle assemblies and the ebrake cables. The reason was to get the ebrake off the caliper.....

Hmm this sounds like a lot of work. I can't wait to get working on this. Which probably won't be until May since I'm in school right now, in the mean time I have research and part buying to do

^ Yes, it is a lot of work, but worth it if done correctly.

I just realized I never gave my impressions after doing this upgrade.  So, my impressions... the car stops.  That is all.

Hi all I have an 03 v4 LX sedan and I found an 03 v6 on Craigslist and its an hour drive. I have to pull the parts myself but I just don't know if the cars are compatible.
Anybody know if they are? All I know is that its a 03 v6 the guys charging 100 for the parts. I have a basic set of tools that usually gets the job done, like alternator, water pump, Acc belt. Would I be able to pull the parts off with what I have?  Thanks for any help.

I also started off with an 03 k24 LX sedan.  I believe my rear disc set up came from an 06 coupe.  From what I know, any rear disc set up from an 03-07 k24 or j30 coupe or sedan will be compatible.  With basic hand tools, you'll be able to get it, but may struggle.  I would recommend that you have a breaker bar if you don't have an impact gun that you can use.  If you read through my original post, you will see what tools you need to use for this swap.

Thank you. How do you determine k24 or j30?, mine is US made. Yes i forgot to add it is a sedan. I've been reading a few of your post and i feel like you know what you're talking about, I'll get them So when i get there are there some signs i should look for if the parts are good or bad? Is it ok to take the proportioning valve from the donor? Or what parts should be new? I asked him for the mileage but got no response, i should use a car with less mileage the mine. I'll need an alignment after i assume. Do you know the size of the allen needed for the end link? Sorry if its alot never done something like this.

k24=4 cylinder
j30=6 cylinder

If you can, spin the rear wheels and make sure the hearings are good. They should spin freely. It may be hard to determine what is bad, unless there is physical damage. You can take the proportioning valve too. They are pretty cheap brand new. I think it costs around $12-20. As far as the mileage goes, I wouldn't worry about it too much. If it were me, I would replace the rotors and pads with new ones. You will definitely need an alignment after you're done.

I don't know what size Allen key you will need off hand. I would recommend you bring a cutoff wheel to cut it out just in case. Those end links have a tendency of stripping out.

Don't have one but that is a damn good idea. Will save me time and struggling. Good looking out!

Debatable.   :rofl: