EliteCM.net

ADMIN EDIT:
Just like the other threads, I have taken the MULTIPLE threads that all have the same fucking topic and lumped them into one thread.  I have done this because there is no reason to have more than one thread for one topic.  Any more new threads that are created will be deleted and a temporary ban may be considered for not following the forum's rules.  Please post any questions, comments, or advice in this thread instead of creating a new thread from now on.

OP:
I want to pull the header I have off and get a new one.  Not happy with it, should have bought a new one in the first place.

My paypal account is fudged up and I keep issueing a $1.32 refund to the buyer and I still cannot get my account resolved.  I have spent around 3 hours with their outsourced call center in india and I cannot seem to get anywhere.

So, question is...does anyone know where I can pick up a DC header (ceramic or SS) off a website for a reasonable price?  I've found a few but they are through the roof expensive.

Just for future reference to anyone it may pertain to, DC ceramic header can be obtained thru a couple sites (that are not easy to find) for the same price as ebay.

http://www.directtuning.com is probably the best.  $328 free shipping.

https://www.jazzproparts.com/ $300 free shipping, little cheaper than ebay.

Thanks for the info man.  I will have to share this with my friend from work (who hasn't posted on here yet) when he looks for a header.

Good info heckler!!

hey guys
im wondering which is better DC or OBX my flex pipe just gav eup (oem) so it time to do something
let me know
thanks in advance
victor

DC Sports all the way. OBX are really cheap, and they have really bad fitment issue.

DC sports.  I'm happy with mine.

I'd stick with the proven company and go with DC. They have been around awhile and from what i've heard make a really solid product.

DC

DC all the way.  OBX has a bad name in general.  I just put mine (DC SS) on after getting a good deal.  Like you, my oem flex pipe wasn't looking to pretty, although it wasn't leaking yet.  Not to go off topic, but if your car is reasonably high mileage, cosider replacing your rear motor mount at the same time since you can actually get at it without lowering your subframe.  For me with ~120000 miles on my car it made a huge difference in shift quality.

Careful with jazzpro.  I remember somebody posting a negative experience with them on the old g7a.  Something about horrible customer service.  Of course, things could have changed since then.

Yeah those look like the same prices they've been for a while now. I got mine for somewhere between your highest and lowest a lil over a year ago. Luckily I'm one of the few with no flex pipe issues. *knock on wood*

Not to contradict you, just as a side note...but I have dealth with jazzproparts ONCE and didn't have an issue.  It was for Nissan parts.  I didn't however have to deal with their cust. service dept.

That's pretty good advice and a great idea man.  

On a side note, just to end the discussion on OBX.  It sucks.  Installed their products for customers before.  Don't waste your money, please.

thanks guys
i only have 106000km on my car approx 65000miles on it
with regards to dc what about the hissing noise it makes whats the cure?

The hissing noise is because of a cracked flex pipe.  I had mine replaced, and any shop can do it.  If you want to take preventative measures, go ahead and have them do it before they install the header.

Your review is more important that what I think I remember from the old site.  

Edit:
That being said, from looking around the web, there are a lot of negative experiences buying motors from them, and they pretty much all are due to their poor customer service and taking forever to ship items they said should take less than a week to ship.  There are similar complaints from people buying parts from them.  Most of these date back to early to mid 2007, so things could have changed.

any good places to buy it from and would ship it to canada?

hey guys will the tsx DC sport headers fit my k24 because i wanna get the vibrant exhaust from the tsx to put on my car. down the road i might go the route of putting in a tsx complete swap and like that i would already have the exhuast and headers for it

In the future, please select one method of getting your question answered.  Either PM me or post in a related thread.  This will cut down on clutter and incorrect information.  Thanks!

Just to let you guys know, I can get 20-25% off most parts from Phantasm in Raleigh, NC. They ship for free to most areas, so if you ever need anything, please don't hesitate to contact me about it and I'll see what deal I can get you. They also have AIM so it's easy to get in contact with them.

I just received my new ceramic DC headers and I wanted to make people aware of a couple things.

First, the flex pipe is now weave inside and out. No "accordion" piece visible inside.

Second, there is a major quality control issue with DC where they are not fully cooking the ceramic coating. When they ship and rub again the blastic bag they are in, it can cause a black or rust color stain. In fact I thought it was rust at first. I spoke with the sales guy I am going through who explained the issue. They are going through all their inventory right now to look for this and send them back to DC. I'll be getting new ones advanced exchanged so I'm cool with it.

(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3348/3331868176_0727f79eff.jpg?v=0)(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3580/3331868134_c15943b096.jpg?v=0)(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3303/3331868114_e6c6045ecf.jpg?v=0)(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3406/3331868150_e3097e03fc.jpg?v=0)

Just a heads up to those who might be looking to get a set.

even with the flexpipe isues id still get the dc sports.

How hard is it to put a quality flex pipe on their headers?  I have heard maybe of one or two people that have had no issues with this.  That's the only reason I'm really not considering headers at this time.

It's not really an issue of the flex pipe, but it is an issue of the header not fitting.  I guess if you're going to have them chop off the flex pipe and weld on a new one, you should go for it.  I would still get DC though.

i had my flex pipe replaced with a better quality one. It cost me $75 for parts and labor.   Granted my flex pipe wasn't cracked or anything, but it did give off a strange whistle noise.  Once it was replaced no more strange noises

If it was making a "whistling" noise, then it was cracked.  That's the exact same problem I had.  When I went to the exhaust shop to get it fixed, I specifically told them that I thought it was the flex pipe.  They brought me back into the shop before they replaced it to show me that I was right.  Dave (striktlyaccord) had the exact same issue and I also recommended that he have his flex pipe replaced when I heard the noise.  After he replaced his, the noise went away also.

anyone tried nopi's header they make ss and cermanic... this could be another option for people who dont have one...

on nopi's site the only header listed for our cars is the dc sports.

you sure its under brand number 1

CERAMIC Coated Header - 4cyl - (4-2-1) 2 Piece Design
Mfg# 251+2836, NOPI# 251+2836    
   
Click to Enlarge
STAINLESS STEEL Header - 4cyl - (4-2-1) 2 Piece Design
Mfg# 251+2857, NOPI# 251+2857

http://www.nopi.com/dsp_parts.php?vpcid=251

i see what ur talking about, its only for the 7th gen and not 7.5 gen which doesnt make since but at that price i wouldnt trust em, sound like ebay headers.

I personally don't know of anybody who has used those headers but I would recommend against anything other than comptech or DC-sports.  DC has their own problems with the flex-pipes cracking.  The only recommendation referring to header purchase is to buy something that's not made by OBX, Ebay, or NOPI.

yeah look around for deals on dc headers. I got my Ceramic one for a good price brand new and in box, but I am soo scared about the flex pipe.

don't do it. did it as a test since they were going for so cheap, still ended up getting a dc sports header.

I have DC headers and Overall, Great mod I can feel the low end tq come back. it wasn't as good as the pulley but its pretty good. Also it smells right now I think because all the pb blaster and stuff is getting burnt off.

Another thing does the car make a whistle at like 3k+ I looked at the header before I installed them and the welding looked shitty for DC headers. There was chips inside of both of the tube that goes 4-2. The 2-1 the flange was welding kinda sideways like 1-2* off. O well it was a fun experience. I will never do it ever again lol.

I just check the headers for leaks today but I can't find anything... I had it run warm up and i moved the TB so that it would rev and stay there looked at the back of the headers and there was no smokes or anything that was blowing out. So just wondering does anyone have negative comment for the DC Ceramic Headers?

that sound you are hearing is from the flex-pipe being cracked.

The best way to check for an exhaust leak is to use a mechanics stethoscope.  Looking for smoke isn't the proper method.

hey i also have sort of a hissing sound since i got my headers installed... all welds looked good before i wrapped them
i also have the ceramic dc sports 4-2-1 headers....
i feel a definate increase in power....but the sound is just different to me.... i dont think hissing is what i should be hearing
cant tell unless i have the car running while on the lift

Thanks tim! great advice as always. ^^

But yeah its getting annoying now because there is a buzzing sound. I am afraid that I would be losing power.

I just order another exhuast manifold gasket. If that doesn't work I am going to order the Down piping gasket. It has to be leaking from one of the gasket. I googled it up last time and it sounds like a gasket problem

It sounds like a cracked flex pipe.

x2 on the cracked flex pipe..i had to replace mine 3 times. warranty ftw!

crack flex pipe? Even if they were new? If so do you guys have a flexpipe that you could recommend to me? I have them on for less then 100miles.

Like I listen to the youtube video with broken flex pipe and it sounds like a Harley. My car just goes Buzzzzz.. Psh

Take your car to an exhaust shop, ask them to find the leak, and let them know that these headers are known for having flex pipe issues.  When they tell you that your flex pipe is cracked, have them cut the DC one out and replace it with whatever they recommend.

thanks Tim.

is there any significant performance difference between a DC ceramic 4-2-1 header or a DC stainless steel 4-2-1 header?
some people said stainless was just for look, but i wanna make sure. because the ceramic headers are like $200 cheaper, and i dont wanna buy a stainless just to show it off, when you cant even see the headers in my k24 engine

thanks :]

Dont buy the Ceramic one They are crap... I bought it for 175 shipped *seller was great and they were new in box* but the ceramic headers look like a POS. The Weld on the flanges look like shit its all welded all sideways. The internal piping have Cracks off the metal there are like triangular pieces missing... This is after I installed them and took it all out to find the leak..

Turns out there was no leaks its just the air whistling as it pass the triangular vold in the headers..

Damn guess that was a bad batch or the seller; I've bought two ceramic DC Headers' (cannot remember the grammar), well one I paid for but they were both great except for the flex-pipe on both and a weak bolt on the first one.

knock on wood.... my ceramics are doing fine
dont notice much of an increase unless your at like 4500rpm or higher tho (which kinda sucks for an automatic unless your DOGGING your engine all the time)

i notice the hiss also.... thought there was a leak but determined there wasnt

i have the ceramic ones and am thoroughly happy, the stainless arent worth it in my opinion since you cant see them.  

this has been discussed numerous times. please search.

Ive had the ceramics on my car for liek 4 months and there doing excellent! Funny thing is they cool down rather quickly as well, I touched mine about 10 mins after shutting the car down and they werent even luke warm! On another note Asnboi I think you just had a fucked up experience and got ripped off.

i know... But I took it to the shop and they can't find it using the scope. The sound is not audible until 3k + if I am just driving regular then yeah I hear a buzzzz..........

mine is more of a shhhhhhht noise
almost sorta sounds like a turbo spooling haha

so far so good...i wrapped my ceramics with thermal heat wrap to cut down on engine temps
ceramic are prone to crack with temperature extremes also.... go from being really hot on a cold day and it cools too quickly = no good

check out the pics of the DIY headers install for my pics of my install, gives a great comparison between the engineering between oem and DC headers....

So the performance gains of this header aren't as great if you don't have a custom exhaust?

Maybe I wouldn't have to do the heat wrap since the car goes from hotter to just hot, lol.

What's the problem with the flex pipe all about? Seems like everyone's is breaking lol.

gains are def more with a full exhaust... unfortunately i only have headers with oem exhaust (for now haha)
also major gains are only seen like i said at 4500-5000 rpm or higher

heat wrap keeps engine bay temps down while keeping the heat "IN" the headers which is a very good thing... the more heat you lose...essentially the more energy you lose
i've read amazing things about people wrapping their ceramic headers... greatly reducing engine bay temps

personal preference in the end... but i wrapped mine.... haha

I've been one of the lucky ones in regards to the flex pipes and mine are about 2 years old.

Jeff btw you usually wanna do your exhaust from front to back anyway unless you have the dough to get everything all at once. So to answer your question you aren't goin to get the full potential of the headers unless you have the rest of the exhaust complete because you've only just begun to free up the bottle neck of exhaust gases.

does the cat play a part in restricting the headers? cuz im debating wether to get a test pipe or not, but living in southern california, with the super strict emissions laws and whatnot, i dont really want to pay a fine.

if youve got a hiflow cat, and 2.25 piping from the cat, are the gains of the headers still significantly felt? because im looking for some low end torque/power.

and for the flex pipe, cant you just tell the exhaust shop to weld on a new one?

The cat does have some play in restriction that's why people get the test pipes however I dont think the gain is enough that I'd fuck around with Cali laws and cops.  In regards to the flex pipe you can get the shop to weld on a new one. That's what most people have done when theirs has gone bad.

just to let you know the headers are also 2in to match the 2in cat. I measure it. So even if you get a 2.25in exhuast It will still be somewhat restricted with the 2in header and cat output.

I also have it with a stock exhuast. The Low and mid range are somewhat better. Top end is damn car just screaming.

alright cool. the cat im gonna get is 2.25 inlet and outlet, so i guess the only restriction im going to get is from the the transition from the headers to the cat.
and when the test pipe goes bad, there should be like a type of whisling sound? idk how to describe it, but i think i know what aznboy is talking about.

should i go ahead and replace the flex pipe as soon as i install it? or wait until it breaks (if it does), then replace it?

install it... worry about the leaks when you have a leak... although a certain few people had problems... they arent a piece of shit, they should work fine
worry about it breaking if/when it ever breaks

im also tryin to go with a high flow cat with 2.25" inlet/outlet and then continue with back end of my exhaust

its flex pipe. not test pipe. If you have an test pipe and you live in cali that automatic impounded.

But yeah I have gotten used to it. Since I have an auto I don't hear it much since I don't go pass 3k, and basically my gas milage when up since I have been scared to go WOT. Also I turn up the music and it drown it all out *well most of it*

I used my stock flex pipe.  Got a shop to cut my stock one and weld it on my new header,  cost $20.  the annoying sound is gone.  Its been bout 6 months.

hey guys, as most of you know, (i think) i'm a noob to this site and what not. and i'm not 100%  sure if this has been takled about alreayd, since i'm posting at work, i don't have too much time to look around. sorries. but, i recently installed my headers from DC. the ceramic ones. took awhile, but got them in and stuff. but i've been hearing this like sound coming from underneath my car, and it's been annoying. but it's only on a cold start and if i turn the car off for like, a little bit and start back up. when it's not in motion, it's like this loud noise, mostly/closely to when you hear someone speaking on the mic and the mic/speakers make that loud annoying sound for a second. and when i hit the gas and start to drive, it then sounds like a nut of bolt is loose. i talked to Bob about it, and he said my flex pipe is bad. i checked under my car last night and look at the flex pipe, and it looked good. from what i could tell, it looked to be in fine shape and what not. question is, how do you know if the flex pipe has gone bad? does it get cracked somewhere? when i' mdriving, there's no sound. only when it's a cold start. i really hope it's just a loose bolt or something. but if you guys could gimme your input and possible solutions, i' really appreciate it. the sound is really annoying.

Sounds like a loose bolt, letting exahust gas creep out. Torque down your bolts and try it again. Could be a gasket, since you said it took you some time to install, might have boogered it up. What does it sound like, tick tick tick tick? How did the welds look on your flex pipe? If it was badly welded could be the issue. Hard to tell without being there looking at it. Maybe someone else can pipe in. GL

no, not tick tick tick. it's more like... squeeking? it's hard to explain but the closest sound would be like.. someone dragging a huge chunk of metal on like a garge floor? like that loud scrreeeccchh. lol. but like, i rechecked the bolts from my exhaust back. i haven't checked the upper part of the header, but from what i checked the night before, the bolts seemed tight and what not. maybe i should loosen all the bolts and tighten them again? and yeah, i'll check the welds on the pipe. i really hope it's not the flex pipe though. i'd be extremely upset. took me forever to install it. but only the bottom part. it didn't fit flush and i was by myself. so i had to like, re loosen all the bolts and make it fit. but i'll try to check it agian tonight. thanks for the input slipkord. very appreciated

Hmmm if it's a squeeking/metal sound that leads me to believe it's not exhaust related. You might want to check your serpentine belt. When you hit the gas does it get louder with acceleration? Sometimes when it's really cold and/or wet outside from a rain my belt will squeel for a few seconds. Just a thought.

no. the squeeking sound only happens when the car isn't in motion, but still on. like, car is on but not moving, like at a stop light and the squeeking sounds will start. but when i cold start it, i can here like, some sound similar to like, loose bolts starting. and when i hit the gas, it's like, rattling. loose bolts, but i checked all the bolts.. they're tight. but, idk where it could be? i haven't checked the bolts from the upper header to the lower one. but it's not a bad flex pipe? bob told me his went bad soon as he pu tit on.. but.. he said it's more than likely that. but i wa sjust tryna figure out are there any signs? like, some weird nose or something? cause once i start drtiving, all the noises stop. and even when i shut it off and like, go inside to get a soda or fill up gas, and start it back up, there's no sound .

Well, I'm at a loss then. If it sounds like a loose bolt, odds are that's what it is. I'm not sure how a flex pipe goes bad, gets cracked I'm assuming? If that's the case you would hear an exhaust leak. You can go to most reputable muffler shops and they'll put a stethoscope on it and check for leaks for free.

yeah. i really hope it's just a loose bolt. cuase i don't  really wanna take it to the shop and what not. but thanks for the input and time man. i appreaciated it

Here's a suggestion. Put one side of your car on jackstands if you can't reach your exhaust with the car on the ground. Start the car while it's cold and run your hand over your exhaust, without actually touching it. If you feel any air escaping, you have an exhaust leak. The flexpipe on DC headers is a known issue. I suggest you start there.

like, by my muffler? or the entire piping from the cat and back? i know DC has flex pipe issues, but i'm really hoping it's not. it's just a really annoying sound that i hope is a loose bolt. i'll be checking underneath the car within the hour and let you guys know the details and what i find out. thanks for the input though guys. i really appreciate it.

Check up by the newly installed header. If the exhaust hasn't changed except for that, that is where you start.

You may want to go to an exhaust shop to have them snoop around for the problem.

actually found out the culprit. hah. it was my middle pipe hanger rubbing aginst part of the frame. guess when i installed my header, it kinda pushed my whole pipes back a little and the hanger was rubbing. but it's fine now.no more noises. and header/flex pipe seems to be still in good condition as well.

Glad you figured it out.

thanks man. appreciate the help and ideas

good to hear.....If i would have heard it I could have told you if it was the flex pipe or not...good to hear its all good though!

Hey everyone, so I just installed a whole new exhaust on my k24, and there is this weird higher-pitched semi-whining sound that seems like its coming from the headers? Its hard to describe, but it kinda sounds like its extra air movement maybe but all the joints in the system seem fine and theres nothing coming out anywhere. Anyone else ever experienced anything similar? I'll try and record it tomorrow.

The system is a OBX 2 piece in to a magnaflow highflow cat, in to a greddy evo sp2

Is this on a K24?  It's an OBX header?  Have you listened to all the flanges with a mechanic's stethoscope yet?

yes, yes, but no...I''m pretty sure its coming form the obx headers because I hear it from the engine bay when I rev the engine...

Weren't there some people talking about how their DC ceramic headers were making a whistling sound? Maybe it depends on how your OBX headers were made that's causing that noise.

The guy that put my exhaust on said it might be because of the flex pipe that isn't on the oem headers? like maybe there's a slight break-in period, but hes not sure...

So, it's coming from where the header bolts to the head?


They must not know what they're talking about, because there is a flex pipe on the OEM exhaust.  It's just not part of the exhaust manifold, but it's in the same place as most aftermarket headers use. 

Or maybe it was something about the pipe being in a different location or something...I'm not sure where the sound is coming from, but one of my coworkers suggested just getting a paper tube and trying to listen with that to see if there are any air leaks. I'll try that tonight.

im pretty sure its your flex pipe. my dc headers make the same noise. on low rpm its louder than my intake. cant wait to get  it replaced.

mine made the same noise when i put a new header in also. Im just putting my stock manifold back on cause its really annoying

i know its annoying but the gains are to good to abandon and go back to stock. F that!

whats a good quality flex pipe to replace the one on the dc ceramic header

Vibrant.

ok thanks tim. what is the price range for one?

Click me! (http://lmgtfy.com/?q=vibrant+flex+pipe)

hahaha you basterd z! lol im not searching for one now. just asked, maybe tim knew off the top off his head lol. i will search when im looking to get one

I'm not sure how much they are.  I'd guess it would be anywhere between $25-$50.

I knew you'd like that.

Slightly off topic, but regarding noise from the header.. I've had my flex pipe swapped out already, which made it somewhat quieter, but the thing is still loud, it's especially noticeable when driving next to concrete dividers, or walls... and don't even get me started about the noise when driving through a tunnel. I wasn't expecting it to sound dead quiet, but how loud is too loud? I'm not sure what the threshold is for normal. My only other guess is that those crush rings on the down pipe are screwed, or the stock gasket I reused up top (I guess you would call that portion the A pipe?) is no good, or... perhaps dc headers are just kinda loud when driving next to large solid objects... Any ideas?

They're a little loud, but if you've reused your gaskets, that could be where your noise is coming from.  Replace the gaskets, they're not that much money.

do you have a torque dampner on the engine...like an ingalls stiffy?

In my opinion, and what Ive read in researching, is that the ceramic cools quicker......I havent had any issues with my ceramic header.........and honestly....if your worried about how your header(s) look, you are doing that upgrade for the wrong reasons

Hey guys. I want to get one of these for now, I'll have the money soon.

What I really want at the moment is mostly power over sound. I've been told dc headers and a y-pipe would give me more power than magna but still good sound.

Theres a shop on b20vtec that will sell me dc headers for my car for $300 and ill look up the y-pipe.

Magnaflow, I can get it for $400 at a muffler shop I live near by.

Just want you genious's to give me ideas on what to choose right now. ;)

Y pipe? You plan on going dual? Or are you talking about an exhaust cutout? I'm not sure i understand that part of your question.

Anyway, as for the header, DC really isn't the way to go due to the flex pipe issues they have. If you could put money away for a better piece i.e. Comptech, you'd be ahead of the game. Just think of what you'd pay for the DC plus the multiple flex pipe repairs you'd have to do later on down the road. That should help with your header decision.

Thanks crackerteg, ill do my research on he comptech

Which headers do you mean Z?

I don't see any listed for the k24 Accord on the site.

Its possible the one Jon (konatriathlon) has on his car is for the TSX. I haven't done any research on it as I plan on going F/I. From what I've read elsewhere, the header will bolt on with no problem its just a bit longer than the Accord header/ exhaust manifold and the exhaust has to be modded slightly.

 :stupid:

Trying to get me going Mike?

No just agreeing with you I remember reading that some where.

Was it something a wise man once said? ;D

I'm still trying to figure out what the OP meant by a Y pipe.

I'm not sure I understand the y pipe thing too.

I was just told if I get headers and a y-pipe, it would be good. but no Z man, Im not going duel. So looks like I dont need it.

So, by "y pipe" you mean a dual exhaust?  You still haven't answered our questions.  I'll make it simple.  Let's try and do this by process of elimination.  When you say "y pipe" you mean:

a - dual exhaust
b - e-cat cut out

My friend told me a y pipe would be good. I didn't know all abt it, that's why I was asking you guys. No I'm not going dual and no I'm not e-cat cut out. I'm just lookin for a header now.

Ummm.  I don't know what your friend is talking about.  My advice is to stop taking advice from that guy.  He doesn't seem to know what he's talking about.

I'd have to agree. Srsly, what the hell is a Y pipe?  :laugh:

And I think he does know abt cars, hes a mod on acurazine.com, and is most likely gonna have the fastest all motor tl in the world, as soon as he hits the track ???

Maybe he's confused and thinks your Accord has dual exhaust? That's the only way a Y pipe would be used.

Yeah, had to be. So I'm jus gonna look around for headers, or try to find a pair of these infamous "comptech" headers.

And "z man". Did you specifically experience flex pipe issues with dc headers? Or its something other ppl had problems with

I know Tim had multiple issues with his, and Dave (StricklyAccord) had to have his flex pipe replaced also. Those the the two guys local to me with the DC header, and they both had to have flex pipe replacements so I'd assume the issue is wide spread.

Thanks for the info mike. Now I know for sure. ...but I have no idea where to find comptech headers for sale :(

Just because he's a mod, doesn't mean he knows about cars. Anyway, like I said in my pm to you, I wouldn't know first hand about the DC flex pipe issue. Unfortunately, its a widely known issue in the Accord/ TSX community. I have no desire to go NA so that's why I still have the stock manifold on my car.

Ok forget the mod status, he knows what he's doing. And looks like I gotta keep looking then, shits becoming a headache lol

I know quite a few people that have ad problems with the DC header flex pipe.  Make sure your engine mounts are in good condition and replace them if they need it.  I replaced my flex pipe twice.  The first was the DC flex pipe and the 2nd was an aftermarket piece.  I can't speak for the quality of the 2nd one, but I know it was done by a half ass shop, so they probably used sub-standard materials.  The one I have on my car right now is made by Vibrant Racing, which has held up for a little bit.  I guess it all depends on how much you're willing to spend.  You could probably get a DC header and have a new flex pipe welded on for less money than a Comptech (CT Engineering) header for the TSX.

ill look into it then. All I really want is something that gives good power. Gotta keep looking...

Hey guys. I bought my dc headers not to long ago and the flex pipe is starting to leak air.

Where can I buy a new one for a good price? Thanks

A new flex pipe or a new header?  You should probably go to a reliable exhaust shop and have them re-weld a new flex pipe on your header.

Sry yeah, a new flex pipe, and thanks tim.

don't get a budget one... the flex pipe is a documented nightmare.

What do you mean a "budget" one?

I think he's saying to not cheap out on the flex pipe if you get yours replaced.  Vibrant makes good flex pipes.

ohh ok. thanks again Tim

I was wondering if i got the dc ceramic header for my k24a4 will it bolt up with my future k24a2?

high flow cat? << What are my other options ?

Dual catback? or single?
personally i  like the look of dual better. But i will choose performance and sound over looks.
 

Since they are the same motor externally, yes it will bolt up.  All K series headers will bolt up to all K series heads.  The real difference between them is clearance with the chassis.  You can get a high flow cat or a test pipe if you want, but I ran into issues with mine throwing a P0420 code for low catalyst efficiency.  I had to get a defouler to get rid of the code before I kpro'd my car.  If you like dual exhaust, go for it.  Make sure you step down the diameter of the pipe after the split.

Yup it will bolt up to any k-series head, headers are all interchangeable with the exception of some chassis specific ones which would only need minor modification to fit, DC sports are also known to have weak flex pipes so down the road you maybe replacing that just keep an eye on it (not an expensive fix), I recommend a higher flowing cat (maybe a magnaflo unit) bigger tubing (2.5" is a good size) and possibly a resonator if you want to cut back on drone, dual cat-backs will just add unnecessary weight for our 4bangers IMO but some people love the look so it's personal preference really

I'm personally going after a little more flow, going to 3" tubing,bigger hi-flo cat (to match tubing) and a longer resonator to quiet it down a little more (18" from 12" also with bigger inlets/outlets) and an apexi world sport 2 muffler to finish it off...it's gonna be loud but apparently the cops where I live only worry about if your muffler is a straight thru and if you removed anything from the stock system ie:cat and/or resonator learned this after getting pulled over and a warning for a burnt out light so I thought why not aha I read on k20a.org there is a tiny bit more power to be had by doing so but the 3" setup may not fly where your from (noise laws/emissions)

so run a 2.5 everything else, and have a 2.25 catback?

what are the differences between highflow cat and a test pipe?
is one louder than the other? and the test pipe would throw out more emissions right?




   

@rushzer0
Thats good to hear. So i can put on more bolt ons than i thought and beable to switch it all over to the new motor once i do the swap.
i dont want anything to loud. Cops out in southern california love pulling over loud hondas. They dont mess with muscle but as soon as they see a honda they turn they lights on.

I would love to get my hands on the Greddy Evo2 heared it sounds nice on our 4bangers and i love the look of those.

But they discontiued them  :'( :'(

^ anyone know where i can get them used maybe?

The evo2 is a loud exhaust dude. Ask Tim. He had that exhaust and promptly got rid of it.

haha well there goes that idea.

I think 2.5" is about as big as you're going to want to go for a stock Accord motor.  I'd recommend 2.25" back instead.

Rushzer0, what engine mods do you have to need to upgrade to a 3" exhaust?  If you have just basic bolt ons to a K24A4 or A8, you will be hurting your performance.  Your post doesn't really give me much insight to what you have in your motor.  There are very few guys with K24 Accords running 3" exhausts that actually need them.  If you are going to get a 3" exhaust, I'd suggest you have Paul build yours for you.  It's top notch work and is the best exhaust system set up that I've had so far.

Some food for thought... On my old car I had the v6 coupe exhaust installed on my i4. My car felt slower after it (I have an auto, so it's all low-RPM driving). I know Z said he felt an improvement on his car, but he has an MT, so he revs higher a lot more often. The v6 exhaust is marginally larger I think, so if you do anything more, you're just going to hurt performance like Tim said.

i just liked the look of dual exhaust if its not ganna help performance wise i dont want it.

Nothing too major done motor wise as of yet (I/H/E mildly Ported mani,port matched head,engine damper) but I'm slowly collecting the pieces for my turbo build this winter, got my Manley turbo tuff rods, waiting to store the car, to take the motor out/apart see what shape the cylinder walls are in and if I can get away with boring them, and if not I'll send it out to get sleeved once I figure that out then I can order my pistons and bearings in the correct size and I don't mind losing a little power right now, if it does harm performance, because I will practically need a 3" once I'm on boost anyways. And I totally would get Paul to make me one but where I live on a tiny island on the east coast of Canada the shipping cost would be pretty high, I got my current exhaust setup welded up and put on for $100+a Tim hortons run (labour,piping and materials that does not include what I spent on the header,resonator,cat,muffler that I got through work) ahaha got the deal through work connections so I'll probably just hit them up again

Just like the other threads, I have taken the MULTIPLE threads that all have the same fucking topic and lumped them into one thread.  I have done this because there is no reason to have more than one thread for one topic.  Any more new threads that are created will be deleted and a temporary ban may be considered for not following the forum's rules.  Please post any questions, comments, or advice in this thread instead of creating a new thread from now on.

whats the size to replace the flex pipe on the dc sports ceramic header again? 4 inches long by 2 inches? i think im gonna get a vibrant turbo flex pipe with interlock, or should i just stick with the standard one from vibrant

Anyone know if the Top Speed Pro-1 Header for the 04-08 Acura TSX fits?  Would it be a direct bolt on?  Assuming I may have to do a little bit of modification since the lengths of the OEM TSX and Accord headers are different.  Thanks in advance!

EDIT:  Anyone have any objections to the Ebay OBX race header?  Another Accord owner has stated that the quality isn't that bad:

http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?p=877715 (http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?p=877715)

I just bought DC Header 4-2-1 2 piece header, didn't bother with the rest.

Most anything meant for the tsx will bolt on to the accord with minor, if any, modification. That being said, things I've read about most headers for both platforms is the flex pipe is weak. Just keep that in mind. Most people will tell you to get a specific brand because of the name. In this case, try out what you think will work for you and report your findings. That's the only way people will see alternatives to the big name shit that fails at specific points.

Dc Headers work fine, no complaints for me. For the flex pipe issue, I just welded a metal pipe there, no more flex pipe worrying.

^^ Thanks guys.  Yeah, that damn flex pipe issue (main reason why I would consider a more inexpensive brand and having a better flex pipe welded in its place ;))

Flex pipe isues happen after like 6 months or something, you start hearing air leaking out of it. I just welded a metal pipe there because it wouldn't matter what flex pipe was put, DC Headers let off a lot of heat so I just prevent the problem forever lol.

For what it's worth, you're not really going to see a huge difference in performance between most of the bolt on headers available for the Accord.  Realistically, the main difference between the DC and the other less expensive brands is the fit.  You guys wouldn't end up seeing any major benefits until you started dropping money on a race header like what ASP, HyTech or SSR makes.  Even then the gains wouldn't be as significant if the motor was basically stock.  Get whatever you think is going to be best and see how it works out.

^^ Thanks Tim.  I agree that even with all the bolt-on's possible, the changes in engine performance (i.e. increase in torque and hp) are not substantial (and may not be even be worth the money  :().  It does something, but, to me, it's more psychological.  :D

BTW, another question:  To combat the potential issue with the flex pipe, would it be possible to also install spring-bolts?  Not even sure if they are even applicable...

You could try almost anything.

Good point Tim.  Thanks.  For a few extra bucks, it would be worth exploring (in lieu of having to replace the flex pipe every so often :))...

I was just looking under my car yesterday, and the flex pipe on my ceramic DC headers is shot. What are my options to fix it?

Have the flex pipe cut out and replaced with something from vibrant.

Will the Vibrant option last?

Hell of a lot more than the crap that comes with DC headers.

Vibrant stuff is pretty common in the import shops I have gone to. Will it last? That all depends on different factors like engine movement, exhaust movement, how much power you're making, how you drive, etc.

What I ended up doing with my exhaust is getting a flex pipe and having v band flanges welded on. That way, if my flex pipe breaks, I just buy another one, have the flanges welded on and bolting it up.

I am thinking about getting this header. Its for the TSX and i know ill have to cut the exhaust a little because the tsx header is longer but this header is cheaper than all the others ive seen. What do you guys think?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/J2-SS-TUBULAR-EXHAUST-MANIFOLD-HEADER-EXTRACTOR-04-08-ACURA-TSX-CL9-2-4L-K24A2-/390546331826?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AAcura%7CModel%3ATSX&hash=item5aee6018b2&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/J2-SS-TUBULAR-EXHAUST-MANIFOLD-HEADER-EXTRACTOR-04-08-ACURA-TSX-CL9-2-4L-K24A2-/390546331826?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AAcura%7CModel%3ATSX&hash=item5aee6018b2&vxp=mtr)

Who the hell is J2? Did Skunk2 finally realize their stuff was junk?

You get what you pay for.  Good luck with that.  :thumbsup:

I have no idea who they are lol but what could be the worst case scenario? the welds are bad? i have a welder and i know how to weld so i can fix them or reinforce them myself. I have heard that the DC header is not that great either and this is half the price. I think i will give this one a shot and be the guinea pig.

You'll probably end up replacing the flex pipe. Just because its an aftermarket header, that doesn't mean that you'll get performance gains over your stock exhaust manifold. These cheap shit Chinese knock offs may be so flawed in their design, that you could lose power.

If you want to buy it just to say you have a header, be my guest. Let us know how it works out.

Nah i dont want it for that, i want a header that will actually help squeeze out a little power out of the four banger. Judging by the pictures the design looks almost identical to the DC header. You might be right about the Chinese knock off though so which one do you recommend Tim, the J2 or OBX? DC is way out of my budget.

I couldn't tell you. I've never used either. Like I said, knock offs are just that. They copy the look without the research and development, while compromising the quality of manufacturing and materials. Again, you may lose power with this header. Only way to find out is to dyno before and after install.

A properly designed header will make power on a n/a motor. Unfortunately, one of them costs a lot more than a DC header. If it were me, I would leave the stock exhaust manifold on.

Stock FTW!  Cause I can't afford an expensive Header with the proper R&D. :D





And, cause Tim said so. LOL.

Should i just get a testpipe for my 05 accord 5speed with stock exhaust or Dc header w/ or without testpipe. Do not plan on installing exhaust for awhile. Any feedback most appreaciated

Currently have Custom SRI
Ordered: TSX IM,TBS,

You can run without a cat if you want, but you'll need an O2 extender so you don't get a P0420 code for "low catalyst efficiency". Another consideration to make is if the state you live in has emissions inspections. If you're never planning on upgrading your exhaust, then just save your pennies and get something else. There's no sense in upgrading your header and getting rid of your cat if you're going to keep the bottleneck of your stock exhaust. K series motors respond well to 3" exhausts. If you need something quiet, then don't go any smaller than 2.5".

Over the winter break i installed a used DC Header i got for a good deal. It was missing some gaskets and stuff but i was able to find what i needed. I didnt buy an O2 sensor extender cable to make it reach instead i just cut the wires and used my old Secondary O2 sensor that i had replaced a few months back to make the wires longer. I soldered them and shrink wrapped them so everything is legit.

I really wasn't expecting much of a change but to my surprise there was change. Im not sure if it was for the good though. Before the header, when i was going say about 40 mph and i floored it,  the car would do a little jump forward and take off. Now with the header that little jump is gone at 40mph however i noticed that now it does it when i floor it from a lower speed like from a stop up to 20mph. Im guessing this is an increase in low end torque?

(http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s576/olecram93/IMAG2099_zpsxrconbs5.jpg) (http://s1306.photobucket.com/user/olecram93/media/IMAG2099_zpsxrconbs5.jpg.html)

The difference in the inlets of the oem and DC Sports header.

(http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s576/olecram93/IMAG2107_zpsc4timbaw.jpg) (http://s1306.photobucket.com/user/olecram93/media/IMAG2107_zpsc4timbaw.jpg.html)

(http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s576/olecram93/IMAG2108_zpsu5wnni4n.jpg) (http://s1306.photobucket.com/user/olecram93/media/IMAG2108_zpsu5wnni4n.jpg.html)

Another question i have, Is this normal? This is the Primary O2 sensor, i am getting no CELs about this sensor what it looks fucked up.


(http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s576/olecram93/IMAG2103_zpsdje8zwrg.jpg) (http://s1306.photobucket.com/user/olecram93/media/IMAG2103_zpsdje8zwrg.jpg.html)

Yup. That looks pretty fucked up. If you notice a decrease in fuel economy, you'll need to replace it. You should get an O2 extender so you don't have to solder new wires when you need to replace it.

My stock flex pipe is leaking pretty bad. So i was thinking about putting some headers instead of a replacement pipe. I read the entire thread ( yeah all of it lol) and seems like dc sports is pretty much the only good option exept the cheap eBay ones. I live in canada so there is a lot of temperature stress from freezing to operation temperature back to freezing. Do you know if the stainless steel one would hold up better to it than the ceramic one. And did the quality of the flex pipe is better on SS than ceramic ? Did the overall flex pipe quality improved since 2009 when every one had problems with it ?

Well, DC was previously owned by AEM.  They are now owned by Pilot.  You know, the company that makes those cheap fog lights that are sold at Auto Zone?  I doubt the quality has improved, even though they say they have addressed it.  The best thing for you to do to make sure that you aren't destroying flex pipes left and right is to be sure that your engine mounts are good.  Excessive engine movement is what destroyed flex pipes for me every 6 months.

If you're really looking for a quality header, get a hold of Stefan over at Advanced Street Performance (ASP).  They make SS and ceramic race headers for a mostly K Series motors and are known as the best header manufacturer in the community.  There's a reason why a lot of the drag guys are running ASP headers.

Yeah well I did notice some significant engine movement at idle the other day, my mounts might be bad but couldn't figure out if there was only one bad or all of them just were loose from age. I'll check that out more before putting some pricy headers then.
I'll check out over the net about ASP, thanks for the tip !

If you want the best header, get ASP.  If you're not sure about your mounts, just replace them all.  The only one that would suck to replace is the rear mount.  Another option would also be to upgrade to the Innovative mounts.  You probably want to get the 60a durometer.  I have 75a in my car, which makes a bit more power than stock.  I had 85a and they were horribly stiff and my car shook like crazy to the point where it was completely uncomfortable.

Wooaaah !  ??? $1249.99 for some headers, that's quite out of my price range, will probably be more the SS DC Ones. On a stock motor, there won't be any difference ( I guess).
For the motor mounts, that's exactly what i had in mind.

Maybe you could get Stefan to do a "budget" header if you set up a group buy.  I'd consider something like that if I had a stock motor.  Anyway, quality costs money.  I've learned that if you try and save $$ on a part, it ends up costing more when you have to replace or fix it later on.

Their "budget" headers (saw it for RSX) are still around 800-900$, wich is still a bit too much for me. I still can get a DC SS for 600$ shipped to canada. ( they are discontinued btw). so my plan will be, get a cheap replacement flex pipe for now (and magnaflow hi-flow cat because it's also leaking there) , put some good mounts on, and them gather money for some DC SS headers while there is still some on ebay that were not sold yet.

I think im going to pass on my testpipe idea and just save for PLM header and a custom 3' exhaust.
I had purchased the PLM header but decided to flip it. :-\
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/834/t3b1.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/n6t3b1j)

Since i have Ktuner i should get some real nice gains with the bolt on setup.
Next will include rdx injectors and maybe cams and obviously tune. Hoping for a realistic 200whp

Holy crap! Those collectors on that PLM header don't look like very good at all. It's a good thing you flipped it.

A good header with a 3" exhaust should definitely help you though.

Anyone heard of these pacesetter headers?

http://pacesetterexhaust.com/03-04-honda-accord-ex-dx-lx-headers.aspx (http://pacesetterexhaust.com/03-04-honda-accord-ex-dx-lx-headers.aspx)

The ceramic ones seems out of stock but they got the painted one in stock.
Seems to have a similar design to the DC headers but with a different flex pipe.

Got any thoughts on this ?

I wouldn't.

What do you mean ?

Their reputation puts them in the same category as eBay headers. That's why I wouldn't.

I knew they weren't the best quality out there but I felt like they would be a great quality/price set of headers, at least better than  ebay headers. In your opinion, theses are worst that DC sports ?

Yes.

Hey what about a TSX Comptech headers ? I know they should be around 2 in longer than the accord headers, but since i'll have to get a custom echaust anyway, I guess it doesn't matter. They seems to be good quality, price is decent and the reviews I've seen so far are good.

http://ct-engineering.com/ProductLineup/AcuraTSX/AcuraTSXHeaderandExhaust/Header,StainlessSteel(0408TSX)/tabid/913/Default.aspx (http://ct-engineering.com/ProductLineup/AcuraTSX/AcuraTSXHeaderandExhaust/Header,StainlessSteel(0408TSX)/tabid/913/Default.aspx)

Looking to make a 2.5 in exhaust after that, then split 2.25 at the rear with dual mufflers

For those who would like to know what PLM TSX headers looks like, here is the set I just bought.
Don't know about gains but quality is pretty good.

(http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/ab109/Pascal_Godin/iPhone%20006_zpsq10pya8e.jpg) (http://s854.photobucket.com/user/Pascal_Godin/media/iPhone%20006_zpsq10pya8e.jpg.html)
(http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/ab109/Pascal_Godin/iPhone%20005_zps7f1n2olc.jpg) (http://s854.photobucket.com/user/Pascal_Godin/media/iPhone%20005_zps7f1n2olc.jpg.html)
(http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/ab109/Pascal_Godin/iPhone%20004_zpsyuioamb5.jpg) (http://s854.photobucket.com/user/Pascal_Godin/media/iPhone%20004_zpsyuioamb5.jpg.html)
(http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/ab109/Pascal_Godin/iPhone%20003_zpsrzcalujb.jpg) (http://s854.photobucket.com/user/Pascal_Godin/media/iPhone%20003_zpsrzcalujb.jpg.html)
(http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/ab109/Pascal_Godin/iPhone%20002_zpshsniw5lk.jpg) (http://s854.photobucket.com/user/Pascal_Godin/media/iPhone%20002_zpshsniw5lk.jpg.html)
(http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/ab109/Pascal_Godin/iPhone%20001_zps2xinhokm.jpg) (http://s854.photobucket.com/user/Pascal_Godin/media/iPhone%20001_zps2xinhokm.jpg.html)

Mmmm, weld porn.

It is ! I never expected that from a budget header !

Do you know the diameter and length of the primaries and secondaries? I forgot what is best, but the pairing of the primaries may be the reason why it's a budget. I'll have to pull up my notes about cylinder pairing with 4-2-1 headers. Either way, for an off the shelf budget header, it's not too bad.

I think I can find them somewhere

couldn't find it so I measured them, length is approximate, with a measuring tape at center of tube, stopped/began at center of merge and collector. Diameter is measured with a digital caliper.

Primaries : 1.75- 1.9 OD;  28" length
secondaries : 2.0 OD;  13" length
Collector: 2.5 OD

It is known for making good power, especially in the mid range. Does better than the CT-e one (about 7whp, dyno proved)

I'm more concerned with inner diameter.  That's good that it makes power over the CT-E header though.  I'm still trying to figure out the best specs for my next header set up.  I am going with a 4-2-1 set up for more clearance and hopefully to make better power.  I need to have a chat with my Aussie k series supercharged friend to see what his testing has shown him.  I'm almost thinking that stepping up from the 1 7/8" primaries to 2" primaries may be a good idea considering that my motor is force fed more than most blown set ups.

Bingo Pascal that's what ive been looking at. I am about to do my tsx im swap and that's exactly what im looking into getting. not a huge fan of dc headers, exspecially with flex pipe issues.
Please let me and us know how they fit and some pics when u have it all complete. they look awesome. I want I want

Tim, for ID remove 0.15 to the OD value,  the 1.75 tube fits in the 1.9 tube so I guess the thickness is the same for the other tubes. I also know the diameter and length changes where the max power and max torque happens but got no idea how to calculate it  :laugh:

Matt, this is a TSX Header and it is meant to fit a TSX, not an accord. It is said that the header will be about 3 inches longer than the accord. You can either cut your exhaust line or shorten the unwelded last piece.

im fine with that I know owner of exhaust shop 3 mins down rd. im more worried about the fitment from bottoming out. and ive heard one of the primary tubes rubs against axle boot. if I can clear axle boot and from bottoming out then im completely fine with having to cut length a few inches. I just want all clearances and all fitment areas to good and im sold

I know someone who did put a plm header on his accord sedan without issue, at least he never stated any.

sounds good well Pascal let me know how it goes keep me posted this is gonna be my next task after my tsx im and so forth

I'm going to post fitment and other stuff in my profile section directly

so whats the update? have you installed the PLM headers yet? fitment issues? pics?

haven't tested yet, someone reported a fitment issue on a AT tho. the header touching the CV shaft inner boot

yea I have heard about that. but it was a prototype header so im not sure if it is still a issue

it was two weeks ago ....

Do you guys know who still sells O2 sensor extenders? About to buy me a SS DC Sports header. Or would you suggest soldering/heatshrinking more wire to the thing myself?

Caspers Electronics makes the extension harness.

http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/index.php?cPath=61_20 (http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/index.php?cPath=61_20)

thanks!

http://www.amazon.com/DC-Sports-HHS5022B-Polished-Stainless/dp/B000KBEA6E/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1453843572&sr=8-3&keywords=dc+sports+stainless+header (http://www.amazon.com/DC-Sports-HHS5022B-Polished-Stainless/dp/B000KBEA6E/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1453843572&sr=8-3&keywords=dc+sports+stainless+header)

Btw the DC Sports header is ~$100 cheaper on Amazon compared to Ebay

Is it SS also? It's not the ceramic coated one? If it's BNIB, it should come with the O2 sensor extension.

Yep, it had the extension. Those were the SS ones

just dropped my car off to determine where my header is leaking -_-

Probably the flex pipe or one of the primaries at the header flange. That's where I've seen them crack.

Is it a bad flex pipe that makes a whistling sound while accelerating. I have the ceramic DC headers BTW.