EliteCM.net

I just wanted to quickly introduce myself to the detailing community here on EliteCM.net.  My name is Greg and I'm the co-owner & co-founder of http://www.DetailedImage.com (http://www.DetailedImage.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;).  Our website carries many high quality automotive detailing products to help you get outstanding results from your detailing efforts.  I have years of both professional and personal detailing experience to help provide meaningful detailing advice.  My goal is to help you find the right process and products to best meet your needs.  If you want to do a full detail we can help you outline what is needed and we can also help people who just want a quick one step process.  I don't claim to know everything but hopefully I can help you get your ride looking it's best!

Very simply I hope this thread is a place where you can ask me detailing questions and I'll do my best to help.  If you can provide as many details as possible about your situation that is a big help. Some helpful information would be: year, make, model, color, specific problem, desired resolution, products you have already have, etc.  Thank you for reading and I look forward to hearing from you guys!

Greg @ DI

Greg welcome and again thank you for you willingness to help out.


A frequent question I here is what should we use to clean/condition the leather in the Accords? It seems every time I hear this question there is a different answer that follows. What is your opinion?

Greg, welcome aboard our humble forum. I just want to add that you don't have to reserve yourself to the Detailing sub forum. If you have any insight on other things outside the detailing realm, feel free to chime in. I promise we don't bite.

Welcome Greg.  I'll be asking you questions later.

Greg, welcome over to EliteCM. I am a member of Detailing Bliss as well. Just got my first ever order from DI. Great service, great prices and quick shipping.

Thank you!!!

I'm thinking about picking up a PC 7424xp.  What backing plate size and pad size would you recommend?  Which pad type would be best to use for applying a polish, sealant, or wax?  The specific products I'm looking to use are OPT Polish II, Poorboy's World EX Sealant w/ Carnauba, and Mothers Gold Class Carnauba paste wax.  I'm a complete beginner and have never used a buffer before. Thanks!

welcome. buy stuff from there pretty often and support seems to be great as well. yesterday tried to check out and was not able to and one of guys emailed me about that. pretty cool.
sales are great as well

Is it okay to apply a finishing polish and then a sealant back to back with no wait time in between?

yes it is. polish is just to level the paint and remainder supposed to be removed with MF towel. so there is not curing time between polish and sealant. sealant does need cure time (usually 24 hours, but check on label and directions for times for specific times)

Thanks again for the welcome.  For leather care my hands down favorite is the Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil and Prestine Clean.  It's a little bit pricey but it does work well.  It helps get rid of deeply embedded contaminants, human oils, etc. and leave the leather soft.  It helps the leather stay soft so it can flex but strong so it maintains it's shape and strength. It has no fillers or residue left behind that gives a temporary nice look, totally matte finish. If you are on a budget for time or money try the Poorboy's World Leather Stuff.

For protection the 303 Aerospace Protectant or Optimum Protectant Plus are great.  They leave a relatively matte finish and block UV rays that cause slow fade.  Let me know if you have other questions.

Greg @ DI

Sounds good.  We're here whenever you need some help.  I'm going to try and check the forum once a day.  If it's urgent you are all welcome to contact me through our contact form on our site.  

Greg @ DI

Haha I will add in my two cents when I can.  

Greg @ DI

I look forward to it.

Your support is much appreciated.  I'm glad to hear you got everything quickly as you had ordered it and at a great price. If you have any questions about the product let me know.

Greg @ DI

The PC 7424 XP is a great tool to use, it really helps you work in the polishes better for improved results.  For maximum polishing power get the smaller backing plate and pad like the 4", which are also less expensive.  For the OPT Polish II I would recommend the white polishing pad.  For the next step you have a sealant and wax in one followed up by a carnauba wax.  I would suggest getting a pure sealant here like the Poorboy's World EX-P or my favorite the Blackfire Wet Diamond.  They will provide you with longer lasting protection and a great shine.  Follow this up with Carnauba Paste Wax for even more gloss and added protection.  I would apply the EX, EX-P and Wet Diamond and almost all sealants with our blue pad.  The Paste Wax is most likely designed to be applied by hand with a foam applicator.  If this is a liquid wax use a separate blue pad for a buffer application.  Assuming it's a hard wax designed to be applied by hand our yellow or red one will do just fine.  Let me know if you need any other suggestions I'd be happy to help.  

Greg @ DI

Sorry to hear you may have had an issue with our site.  We usually try and contact customers right away if we notice a problem.  If you need any further assistance please let me know I'd be happy to help.

Greg @ DI

AV6NHBP6SPD answered it spot on.  A polish like the one you mentioned is designed to be removed almost immediately and entirely so it leaves nothing behind.  The sealant leaves a layer behind that may need to cure for up to 24 hours in between coats.  Let me know if you have any questions.

Greg @ DI

great combo is mezerna 203 and 85. 203 is amazing. sometimes we dont have to use 85 after 203, but i guess for absolutely best results you need 85

Thanks for the advice.   I just ordered $260 worth of goodies.  Merry Christmas to me!

Thank you for the support, it's greatly appreciated!  It looks like it shipped out yesterday and it was already delivered today!  If you have any questions please let me know or check our Detailing Guide which is packed with PC instructions and so much more.

Greg @ DI

One question, on the PC I can screw the handle into the right side but not the left.  Is it safe to assume the thread on the left side is stripped or am I doing something wrong?

Greg, I agree that Leatherique is excellent stuff, but not for Accord leather. We have coated leather and so using Leatherique is basically useless. Leather Stuff is good as well, but I have found that for our leather, spending money on higher end leather conditioner and cleaners, are not really necessary. Some OTC Zymol or Meguiars Gold Class tends to get the job done equally well.

you can screw from left or right. if you cant from left then it probably stripped, i doubt they will make different threat patern for other side

any xmas sales coming up?

It should work on both sides with no problems.  I would doubt you stripped it this quickly on a new unit.  Try twisting it the opposite direction to see if it goes in there.  If not Porter Cable will help you out if bring it to one of their service centers - http://www.deltaportercable.com/Service ... pport.aspx (http://www.deltaportercable.com/ServiceAndSupport/ServiceAndSupport.aspx" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;).  Keep me posted on what you decide.

Greg @ DI

Yes we do have one that just started.  For those of you living in the Northeast and even beyond we can still get you your order before Xmas.  You can save 15% off and get Free S/H on orders over $40 with the coupon code Northeast09.  The discount doesn't apply to buffers, kits, vacuums, water filtration units and paint gages.

Greg @ DI

alright. another sale just intime. 15% off and free shipping on orders $40 or more, not a problem. gona order some stuff

Very much appreciated!  Let me know if you have any questions or if you need any recommendations.

Greg @ DI

gona order 105 and maybe pads. have to see first

question: what order would i use these products? optimum polish, optimum poli seal, optimum opti seal, optimum finish polish, optimum car wax.

question: do i use the above with a pc7424 until the material is gone? or just use until i reached how i want it to look and wipe the remainder off? generally how many passes through a spot?

question: for the 303 fabric guard, how much do i need for my whole car? and is it good for the seats too or just the flooring?

thanks!

i would guess polish first, then finish polish, then poli seal (looks like its selant), didnt find opti-seal, but sounds like selant as well. then car wax

still debating what to get 32 oz of 105 and 95 or gallon of 105, sounds like you can make 105 like 95 by using quick detailer or water (meguiars recomends using their 34 QD, ill probably call them up and ask, maybe i can use their detailers line final step QD)

Any plans on having a sale on MF towels?

Greg. Order Number: 36491
thanks again for discounts

The correct order for those products would be:
Wash/Dry
Clay Bar
Optimum Polish II - light cutting polish, helps safely remove swirls, oxidation, etc.
Optimum Finish Polish - Ultra fine polish used for jeweling the paint
Optimum Poli-Seal - Polish with sealant that cleans and protects in one step
Optimum Opti-Seal - My absolute favorite spray on sealant, spray it on, spread it with the supplied foam app and it dries clear, the protection is better than many traditional sealants and leaves a great shine, I also use it on the clean wheels and glass.
Optimum Car Wax - Adds more protection and shine to the surface

I would work the polishes in thoroughly until they become more clear and thin.  If the buffing pad becomes dry you'll notice the increase friction and you should stop.  After a few passes you'll get the hang of it very quickly.  For detailed instructions please check out our - http://www.detailedimage.com/Auto-Detailing-Guide/ (http://www.detailedimage.com/Auto-Detailing-Guide/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;).  I usually do about 6 - 10 sets of overlapping passes with the polishes.  With any sealant, glaze or liquid wax you can usually do less passes with less pressure.  

The 303 High Tech Fabric Guard works great on both seats, carpeting, mats, etc.  One 16oz bottle is more than enough to do the whole interior.  On an average sized car like an Accord a couple of ounces should be plenty.  I approximate you'll need 2 - 4 ounces.  I also recommend our 4oz pump spray bottle, it makes spraying it a little easier.  

Let me know if you have any questions about these products I'd be happy to help.

Greg @ DI

I have an after Christmas sale planned that may have something you are looking for.  I don't have one specific for microfiber planned right now, but we always have 10% off with our 10offElite coupon code.  If you can get some interest from other forum members I can work out a special price on a particular towel or possibly even the whole microfiber line of products.  

Greg @ DI

Very much appreciated.  If you wind up mixing any products please keep us posted on the process and your results.  Take care!

Greg @ DI

good idea to prep pad, quick detailer would work, or CG pad conditioner. just make sure no dirt is on it. if it falls on floor do not use it again till you wash it good.
do not use too much polish, quarter side is fine after first. usually i do cross on pad to prep it.more polish you use, more you gona have to remove with MF towel. trust me, did this myself. now i learned. do small section at a time. usualy about 16x16 or so or quarter of the door, works fine for me but i have different polish so you would have to get used to yours

btw Greg, got my order yesterday, gotta love 1 day ground shipping

I had a brake problem which caused one of my rims to have a shit load of brake dust caked on.  I didn't have any wheel cleaner when I washed my car over the weekend and so I just sprayed that 303 stuff on them and scrubbed a bit with a brush.  The wheels came out looking good except for the 1 with the heavy brake dust.  I can't seem to get it to come clean.  Any recommendations on a heavy duty wheel cleaner?

heaviest cleaner i know if meguiars wheel brightner, but be carefull, that shit is strong, when you done with wheels. seal it with wheel wax or some kinda sealant or even regular wax

if you dont have access to that, go to auto store and probably get eagle 1 wheel and tire cleaner, that stuff is good but nowhere near as strong couse its for consumers

Glad to hear you got it nice and quick!


The 303 is not really designed for that purpose so yes you may definitely need a more serious cleaner.  If you have a clear coated wheel the Megs Wheel Brightener or the Poorboy's World Spray and Rinse work really well.  I would dilute both cleaners at least 3:1 (water to cleaner) and then use them in a stronger concentration only as need be.  If you have an aftermarket wheel that should not be used with non-pH balanced cleaners try the Chemical Guys Diablo Wheel Gel.  Let me know if you have any other questions.  

Greg @ DI

+1 on Diablo. got it but havent had dirty wheels to try this stuff on. 3:1 i think is still way too thick, gona try 6:1 for regular wheel cleanning

What product would you recommend for removing blood stains from the carpet in the trunk?

I hope you like to hunt........

hmm. how old are they? maybe steaming it would help. i dont know of any product that will get rid of blood. maybe oxyclean thing. go to home depo and ask. just tell them how to get blood out of work clothe not out of trunk couse they might call cops lol

do we even want to know how it got there?

Oh man these can be tough.  My first step would be to take some hot water, possibly even boil it a bit.  Spray your favorite fabric cleaner like the 303 Cleaner and Spot Remover on it.  Then dip a scrub brush in the hot water and agitate the stain in different directions with the brush.  If that doesn't work I'd repeat the same process with some hotter water and use a degreaser like the P21S Total Auto Wash.  Be careful with the hot water and keep us posted on what you try and how it works.  Good luck!

Greg @ DI

so whos blood is it?

I know Greased Lightening from Home Depot or in the supermarket cleaning product aisle can get blood out.

It's not human blood haha.  We had a grill out at work and I had to pick up a bunch of meat and some of it wasn't packaged very good and leaked everywhere.  

That's my story and I'm sticking with it!

wow so the optiseal can be used for windows and wheels?? man.. i gotta get on that.. my windows are a mess.... can i clay the window? and the wheels? thanks for your help!

yes you can clay windows and wheels. there might be special clay for windows but not 100% on that.

you can use selant and wax on painted wheels. maybe on polished too. not sure about other kinds of wheels.

Yes you can use the Optimum Opti-Seal (http://www.detailedimage.com/Optimum-OP ... 9/8-oz-S1/ (http://www.detailedimage.com/Optimum-OPT-M36/Opti-Seal-P279/8-oz-S1/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;)) to protect your wheels, glass, etc.  Virtually any sealant can be used on to protect the wheels and glass.  The major benefit of the Opti-Seal is that it dries clear so you don't have to remove it just apply it and your are done.  If you guys have never protected your glass I highly recommend it.  Rain, sleet or snow it is a huge help.  If you don't use your wipers too much when the glass is dry you will get a solid 1 - 2 months of protection from the Opti-Seal or other quality sealant.  It also helps prevent the blade from scratching the glass.

Yes you can use a clay bar on the windows and wheels.  I do this sometimes after my normal cleaning and before I protect those surfaces.  Let me know if you have any other questions.

Greg @ DI

man.. this is great news.. im gonna go home and just clay and seal the windows for this rainy weather. =)

Whats a good heavy duty tire cleaner. I have this weird film on my tires that I cannot get off. I have taken the tire and used full concentration degreaser on them, but have had no luck.

hmmmm.... First off I would try and determine if this is something that can come off.  If it's spray paint or something like that it may not come off with a degreaser.  If you used a full concentration degreaser I'm not sure if something stronger will work.  The Meguiar's Super Degreaser D108 (http://www.detailedimage.com/Meguiars-M43/Super-Degreaser-D108-P379/) and the Chemical Guys Grime Reaper (http://www.detailedimage.com/Chemical-Guys-M31/Grime-Reaper-P180/16-oz-S1/) are two of the strongest degreaser I have used.  I would try them diluted first and use them concentrated if that doesn't work.  Keep us posted on what you try and how it works.

Greg @ DI

I don't think it is spray paint. I'm not sure if it's residue from tire shine or what. I used full strength purple power but Ill try one of those two next. Thanks

got this today
Zymol Royal Glaze and
Zymol Destiny
(http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/sy272004/Car%20Details/DSCN6734.jpg)

^ wow.. looks.... expensive.. haha..man... comes in its own storage case and everything nice....

is there a way to get wax out of plastic? it dried white around the mirror area on my bros car cuz his gf is stupid and waxed it =T

also.. sealed the windows... its niiiiiiiicceee.... all the waters just roll off in the morning and i dont even have to use my windshield wipers =P HOWEVER... not sure if its the inside or outside... when it steams up, it shows all the streaking so maybe i applied too much of the seal =T

wax cleaner should do it or rubbing alcohol should do the trick

could be inside if you didnt clean glass good..

apply it again and make sure you wipe it off good

Nice!  Let us know what you think of it.

Greg @ DI

The longer it's been on there the harder it is to remove.  For the plastic I would try a little degreaser if you have some handy.  If it's been on there a while I would try a product like the Poorboy's World Trim Restorer.  It does a good job of deep cleaning the surface and making the trim look new.  

Greg @ DI

Alright here is what i'm getting ready to do what I would like is a complete list of product selections including what type of pad I should be using and how many. Come spring time I'm planning to give my car a complete detail. Inside and out. The car is silver in color and has leather interior. I need to do light scratch, and swirl removal, and I'd like the finished product to have a nice deep shine. What products should I be using?

preferably you need 2 stage correction, if car was never detailed before then id say get menzerna 203(power finish) and menzerna 85rd, get orange or green pad for 203 and white or black pad for 85(this is final polish). after that you can use black/blue or red pad for glaze/sealant/wax.

what size pads you use? i probably can hook u up with that stuff

For Katzkin leather, which should I use? I dont know if it is coated or not.... I dont really want to buy the pricey stuff if its not needed...

Mike,

You asked a great set of questions.  There is no one right answer and you can always find different ways to get great results!  I'll help you put together a list of exactly the products I would use for your car.  My only big question to you would be, what buffer do you have or are you interested in getting, or did you plan a hand application?  The buffer you have definitely impacts the pad size recommendation.    

Here is what I would suggest.  1 - 2 times per year do a full detail with all these steps listed.  Then in between you can wash and seal/wax the paint as much as you'd like.  I suggest doing it at least every three months.  

1.) Wash / Dry - critical step where you remove loose contaminants and you are most prone to adding swirls if you use poor technique and low quality products.  If you need to upgrade your products check out our kits like our DI Packages Washing and Drying Basic Kit (http://www.detailedimage.com/303-M2/Washing-and-Drying-Basic-Kit-P349/) or the Starter Kit.  If you already have some of these products in these kits just get the ones you are missing.  Be sure to use one of the waffle weave towels for drying it's paint safe and highly absorbent.  

2.) Clay Bar / Lube - May seem complicated or hard but it's really pretty easy.  Pick up the DI Packages DI Clay Bar and Clay Lube Combo (http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Packages-M29/DI-Clay-Bar-and-Clay-Lube-Combo-P372/).  Check out our Detailing Guide for this step and all others for best results!

3.) Polishing - Arguably the most important step to restoring the shine.  This will help remove ultra light scratches, fine swirls, oxidation, etc. so the clear coat is more optically clear and shinny.  I would do a step process with the Meguiar's Ultra-Cut Compound M105 (http://www.detailedimage.com/Meguiars-M43/Ultra-Cut-Compound-M105-P388/32-oz-S1/) first (with a cyan pad if you have a buffer) and follow that up with the Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish M205 (http://www.detailedimage.com/Meguiars-M43/Ultra-Finishing-Polish-205-P389/32-oz-S1/) (with a tangerine pad if you have a buffer).  This will really help bring back the deep shine and the paint will look and feel much smoother.

4.) Sealant - Sealants are like waxes but last much longer and can be applied with a buffer (blue pad) if desired.  I highly recommend the Blackfire Wet Diamond with Polycharger (http://www.detailedimage.com/Blackfire-M32/Wet-Diamond-P205/16-oz-S1/) for the optimal shine, protection, durability and ease of use.  It's truly awesome!

5.) Wax (optional) - You can stop with the sealant or apply a wax for even more gloss and depth.  The P21S Concours Carnauba Wax (http://www.detailedimage.com/P21S-M14/Concours-Carnauba-Wax-P83/62-oz-S1/) looks outstanding on silver paint.   If you want something even better try the Dodo Juice Diamond White Hard Wax (http://www.detailedimage.com/Dodo-Juice-M35/Diamond-White-Hard-Wax-P239/250-ml-S1/) which is specifically designed for lighter colors.  These waxes should be hand applied.

6.) Step back and admire the shine!!!!

I hand remove all of these products with clean DI Microfiber All Purpose Towel (http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Microfiber-M13/All-Purpose-Towel-P103/16-x-16-S1/).  About 10 - 12 of these towels should really help you get the paint totally clean safely and effectively.  

Wow that was a lot so let me know what questions you have and I will be happy to help!

Greg @ DI

I'm confident you would get great results with the Leatherique Prestine Clean (http://www.detailedimage.com/Leatherique-M8/Prestine-Clean-P64/16-oz-S1/) and the Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil (http://www.detailedimage.com/Leatherique-M8/Rejuvenator-Oil-P65/16-oz-S1/).  Again these are my go to products for most seats.  If you wanted to save some money the Poorboy's World Leather Stuff (http://www.detailedimage.com/Poorboys-World-M1/Leather-Stuff-P126/16-oz-S1/) is another quality option.

Greg @ DI

I have another question along with the leather question. My cars paint is in horrible condition. Either I got a bad batch of Honda pain or a detailer cut through my clear coat. I'm getting the visible places fixed, hood and fenders. My question is though, with the condition of the paint, is it safe to polish? There are not really any other areas that have been affected by it, but I'm just not sure how much clear is left and I dont want to make it any worse in other places. My main concern as far as correction goes is swirl marks. I used to get it detailed but I think they put more swirls in it than I did so I took that over... I dont really have any products so I would need some suggestions there too. My car is a dark green pearl.

I employ a PC 7424 sorry I left that out.

which backing plate you have, what size

I believe its 4.5

its either 5 or 3.5 i think so i guess you got 5

If you really think the clear coat may be gone you can have it measured by a paint shop with a paint thickness gage (DeFelsko PosiTest DFT Paint Thickness Gage (http://www.detailedimage.com/DeFelsko-M40/PosiTest-DTF-Paint-Thickness-Gauge-P348/Combo-S1/)).  This will tell you the exact thickness of the clear coat.  Unfortunately many "professional detailers" can do more harm than good.  They do very often add more swirls than they remove, however it's covered up temporarily with a glaze or wax so you may not notice initially.  

Assuming the clear coat is still there and there are no visible cracks in it, you should be okay to polish it and restore the like new appearance.  A buffer will be a major help in this area because they help generate the pressure needed to really work in a polish for best results.  If interested I would highly recommend DI Packages Porter Cable 7424 XP 6.5" Starter Kit (http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Packages-M29/Porter-Cable-7424-XP-65-Kit-P333/) or the DI Packages Flex XC3401VRG Starter Package (http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Packages-M29/Flex-XC3401VRG-Starter-Package-P157/).  Both buffers are totally safe even for new detailers and they will greatly help improve your results, while saving you time and effort.  The Flex is my favorite but it's a little bit pricey.  The PC is far more affordable and also works really well.  Take a minute to look over those links and let me know if you have any questions.  

As for the products I just outlined a routine for Mike in the above posts which I'm going to copy and paste below here.  The only changes I would make are my wax recommendation for your green paint.  Please read this section over and let me know your thoughts.  

Here is what I would suggest.  1 - 2 times per year do a full detail with all these steps listed.  Then in between you can wash and seal/wax the paint as much as you'd like.  I suggest doing it at least every three months.  

1.) Wash / Dry - critical step where you remove loose contaminants and you are most prone to adding swirls if you use poor technique and low quality products.  If you need to upgrade your products check out our kits like our DI Packages Washing and Drying Basic Kit (http://www.detailedimage.com/303-M2/Washing-and-Drying-Basic-Kit-P349/) or the Starter Kit.  If you already have some of these products in these kits just get the ones you are missing.  Be sure to use one of the waffle weave towels for drying it's paint safe and highly absorbent.  

2.) Clay Bar / Lube - May seem complicated or hard but it's really pretty easy.  Pick up the DI Packages DI Clay Bar and Clay Lube Combo (http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Packages-M29/DI-Clay-Bar-and-Clay-Lube-Combo-P372/).  Check out our Detailing Guide for this step and all others for best results!

3.) Polishing - Arguably the most important step to restoring the shine.  This will help remove ultra light scratches, fine swirls, oxidation, etc. so the clear coat is more optically clear and shinny.  I would do a step process with the Meguiar's Ultra-Cut Compound M105 (http://www.detailedimage.com/Meguiars-M43/Ultra-Cut-Compound-M105-P388/32-oz-S1/) first (with a cyan pad if you have a buffer) and follow that up with the Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish M205 (http://www.detailedimage.com/Meguiars-M43/Ultra-Finishing-Polish-205-P389/32-oz-S1/) (with a tangerine pad if you have a buffer).  This will really help bring back the deep shine and the paint will look and feel much smoother.

4.) Sealant - Sealants are like waxes but last much longer and can be applied with a buffer (blue pad) if desired.  I highly recommend the Blackfire Wet Diamond with Polycharger (http://www.detailedimage.com/Blackfire-M32/Wet-Diamond-P205/16-oz-S1/) for the optimal shine, protection, durability and ease of use.  It's truly awesome!

5.) Wax (optional) - You can stop with the sealant or apply a wax for even more gloss and depth.  For green paint one of the least expensive yet still outstanding options is the Poorboy's World Natty's Blue Paste Wax (http://www.detailedimage.com/Poorboys-World-M1/Nattys-Blue-Paste-Wax-P30/8-oz-S1/).  If you want something even nicer try the Chemical Guys 50/50 Limited Series Concourse Paste Wax (http://www.detailedimage.com/Chemical-Guys-M31/5050-Limited-Series-Concourse-Paste-Wax-P185/16-oz-S1/).  It's one of my favorite waxes!   These waxes should be hand applied.

6.) Step back and admire the shine!!!!

I hand remove all of these products with clean DI Microfiber All Purpose Towel (http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Microfiber-M13/All-Purpose-Towel-P103/16-x-16-S1/).  About 10 - 12 of these towels should really help you get the paint totally clean safely and effectively.  

Again please let me know if you have any questions.  I look forward to helping you restore the paint's deep and glossy finish!

Greg @ DI

I would stick with the same pads I listed above, now just pick the appropriate size for your backing plate.  For a PC, or other orbital buffers, you generate more polishing power from the smaller backing plate and pads.  The Lake Country Porter Cable 7424 Backing Plate for 4 Inch Pads (http://www.detailedimage.com/Lake-Country-M7/Porter-Cable-7424-Backing-Plate-for-4-Inch-Pads-P263/85-mm-S1/) and the 4" Pads are ideal for polishing.  The other sizes will still work great.  If you have a 6" Backing Plate get the 6.5" Pads, if you have the 5" Backing Plate get the 5.5" Pads. Let me know if you have any questions.

Greg @ DI

for PC i wouldnt recommend 6.5 it wastes product and not as manuvrable around curves. i use 4" with my PC, doesnt use as much product and easy to work with but you would need 3.5" backing plate

Whats the best way to remove snow from a car without damaging the paint in no more then 5-10 mins max?

Leaf Blower...

^^^water. if its above freezing

Both options are pretty BLAH at 6am in 20 degree weather.

You could use a California Car duster they are pretty soft.

Move to the equator.

tried it but it still somewho scraches the car. i just remove snow on glass and leave the rest if its not much. or use one of those brush things and move the snow. just make sure brush doesnt touch the paint itself but then again it will damage paint since snow gona drag dirt that under the snow on your car.

I live in upstate NY so I really understand this terrible problem.  There is no easy answer to this one or really even any great tips.  I have cheated and I got a car starter which is a huge help.  I literally use it just about every day to warm up the engine and defrost the glass when it's snowing or below 20.  If you don't have one try to start your car early.  

First and foremost always make sure it's safe to drive by removing enough snow/ice.  My next tip is to have a snow brush and brush off the top layer of snow so you stay just above the paint.  If you've warmed up your car this is usually a lot easier to get more if not all off.  The bristles will add micro-swirls so be careful on the paint.  Having a good coating of sealant or wax underneath also helps minimize the chances of adding swirls and ultra fine scratches.  My only other tip is park in the sun if possible, it definitely helps melt the snow.

Greg @ DI

Thanks for the tips fellas.

Hi Greg. how do you become registered detailer on DI? how much and stuff.

There is no cost involved more just of a demonstration of the absolute best detailing processes, products and business practices.  We are targeting elite detailers whose businesses are producing top notch results.  Another major factor is we are looking for experienced professionals who want to interact with others on our site.  I will PM you with the details if you are interested in applying.  

Greg @ DI

ok sounds good. my friend does details and im sure you seen some of them in my threads which i helped him with and i just didnt see him on the map.

It's certainly not a comprehensive list of all quality detailers.  It's a list of quality detailers who are going to also help other detailers on a semi-regular basis on our site.  

Greg @ DI

Hey guys, I have a quick question about washing rims. I know certain wheels out there have an anodized lip. (work wheels for example) And the wrong type of detergent can easily wreck these wheels. My question is, would regular coin operated car wash soap be alright to use with these wheels, or is it better to just hand wash the whole car for the sake of the wheels?

Thanks

id say its ok to go through regular coin wash but id wash wheels once and then use wheel sealant to protect wheels, either CG, poorboys or rejex. this will protect it against elements.

Great question and the answer depends on a variety of factors. What cleaning chemicals they use is critical.  More car washes are shifting towards gentler chemicals but some still use some stronger ones that could potentially harm these sensitive wheel finishes.  Additionally the other major concern is the mineral deposits in the water.  If you have hard water you may be more prone to having problems with etchings as well.  

Here is my suggestion wash with the Optimum No Rinse, it involves far less water since there is no rinsing.  If needed clean the wheels with a very gentle cleaner like the P21S Wheel Gel or the Chemical Guys Diablo Wheel Gel.  Both are top notch and totally safe.  

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Greg @ DI

hey Greg. any idea when you going to have menzerna power lock sealant?

What product should I use to clean the wheel wells and how exactly should I go about doing it?

I would suggest cleaning with soap and water and then applying:

Chemical guys Fade to Black (http://www.detailedimage.com/Chemical-Guys-M31/Fade-2-Black-P226/13-oz-S1/):


or



Aerospace 303 (http://www.detailedimage.com/find.php?search=aerospace+303):

id suggest some kind of citrus degreser, i want to get CG grime ripper
http://www.detailedimage.com/Chemical-G ... 128-oz-S2/ (http://www.detailedimage.com/Chemical-Guys-M31/Grime-Reaper-P180/128-oz-S2/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;)
or
http://www.detailedimage.com/Meguiars-M ... D108-P379/ (http://www.detailedimage.com/Meguiars-M43/Super-Degreaser-D108-P379/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;)  (have this but havent tried on wheels wells, usualy regular citrus degreaser works fine. if you want stop by home depo and get Zep citrus, a lot of ppl like it couse its pretty cheap.
heard a lot of good things about CG GR

or this
http://www.detailedimage.com/P21S-M14/T ... ml-Kit-S1/ (http://www.detailedimage.com/P21S-M14/Total-Auto-Wash-P87/1000-ml-Kit-S1/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;)  me and Nick use this as degreaser for car to strip any LSP

I swear I suggested a method to clean before dressing right assclown?  

^^^ as always i at product suggested and started replaying before reading whole thing lol

We will have it in stock very shortly!

Greg @ DI

I'd suggest a degreaser like the ones suggested above.  The P21S Total Auto Wash (http://www.detailedimage.com/P21S-M14/Total-Auto-Wash-P87/1000-ml-Kit-S1/) is nice and gentle and works great.  The Meguiar's All Purpose Cleaner Plus D103 (http://www.detailedimage.com/Meguiars-M43/All-Purpose-Cleaner-Plus-D103-P385/128-oz-S1/) also works great and is an awesome value.  The Chemical Guys Grime Reaper A.P.C. (http://www.detailedimage.com/Chemical-Guys-M31/Grime-Reaper-P180/16-oz-S1/) is very strong and really awesome.  With any of these cleaners I would mist it in the wheel well carefully, do not let it blow back in your eyes.  Let it sit for about 1 - 2 minutes and then agitate with a brush and rinse after.  This should do a pretty thorough cleaning but try a second pass if need be with the same process.  

Lastly you may want to protect or enhance the looks with a product like the Chemical Guys Fade 2 Black (http://www.detailedimage.com/Chemical-Guys-M31/Fade-2-Black-P226/13-oz-S1/).  Just spray it in there and you are all set.  It creates a very dark appearance, almost like new, but it's not oily or greasy.  Let me know if you have any other questions.

Greg @ DI

im using adams underceriage righ tnow but running low so probably try F2B. dont realy like it couse its kinda too shiny

Just want to say that the Wheel Brightener did an awesome job, and the wheels look brand new!

(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss115/markkleiner/IMG_9009.jpg)

(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss115/markkleiner/IMG_9012.jpg)

(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss115/markkleiner/IMG_9030.jpg)

(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss115/markkleiner/IMG_9022.jpg)

(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss115/markkleiner/IMG_9015.jpg)

Thanks fellas.  I'm going to see what I can do with the wheel wells once the winter is past and the road salt is gone.

^^^you would go from about this
(http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/sy272004/Car%20Details/My%20accord/IMGP0490.jpg)

to about this (adams undercarriage spray)
(http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/sy272004/Car%20Details/My%20accord/IMGP0498.jpg)

HOLY SHIT!  Misha, is that stuff spray it on once and rinse it off?  or do you have to scrubb too?

i had to scrub it

Wow that looks incredible!  I might just have to pick some of that stuff up.  That stuff is safe to get on your brakes and suspension?

^^^yeah it is. its just dressing like tire shine for wheel wells.
if you talking about degreasers then yeah its safe as long as its not powder coated, if it i dont think i would use degreaser on that

free MF towels
http://www.tampagpcarwash.com/special_offers.html (http://www.tampagpcarwash.com/special_offers.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;)

Now to wait and see if it actually comes.

its free, what you got to loose lol

Glad to hear it worked well for ya!

Greg @ DI

Below is a picture of my rims.  They have been painted matte black.  Is there anything I can use to clean them other then soap and water?

(http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/ikethegreat/new%20car/IMG_0400.jpg)

Two more questions!

1.  If you look at the picture of my rim above, the chrome "blocks" that go around the rim are fairly dirty, can I use anything to polish them up without hurting the paint?

2.  Whats the longest lasting tire shine product you have?  I was looking at the Opti-Bond Tire Gel but want to see if it's the best.

Thanks!

Okay one last question I promise!

Lets say I just finished washing the car and only have time to do one thing, which would you pick?  

Both will be done by hand:
Use Poorboy's World EX Sealant w/ Carnauba
or
Use California Gold Carnauba Cleaner Wax

^^^ have they been clear coated? if not then only safe cleaner i know is chemical guys Diablo, its PH balanced so its safe on any wheel as far as i know.

longest lasting as far as i know is Tuf-buff tire sealant(lasts couple month).  i just got Rubber Dub http://spautopia.co.uk/rubberdub.aspx (http://spautopia.co.uk/rubberdub.aspx" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;) from UK but havent tried it yet. i have optibond and its ok but doesnt last well through rain, other good one is showroom FX white pearl tire dressing.

They are not clear-coated.

One more question, which of these two is better for applying waxes and sealants?

http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Accesso ... r-Pad-P94/ (http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Accessories-M12/Foam-Applicator-Pad-P94/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;)

or

http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Microfi ... -Pad-P107/ (http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Microfiber-M13/Applicator-Pad-P107/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;)

I'm really a fan of TUF Shine.

i prefer foam applicator, i have DI once and i like them. they are pretty small so i can put them in most of my waxes containers so i can use them next time so it doesnt waste wax

you have it? if this rubber dub doesnt work as good as i want it ill probably get tuf-shine

Yes I have it. Its the longest lasting stuff I found, and it doesn't leave the greasy mess that a lot of other products do.

I'm looking to remove the following:

1. Some light scratches around the door handle (Any guys with g/f's with long fingernails know what I'm talking about)

2. A few parking lot buggy accidents. Nothing through the paint but left some light marks


Any ideas on what will buff these out. I'm hoping something will work.


Thanks

rubbing compound would work but might not get all out. some of those scraches can be through clear or almost and would not be safe to completely remove them. i had good luck with mothers 1st step cleaner or any kinda cleaner paste for around the handle jobs. it cleans them so its less noticable

Anyone ever try Dodo Juice Purple Haze Wax?  My paint is Graphite Pearl and this was recommended for darker colored vehicles.  Thinking about giving it a try but wanted to hear some reviews...

Or would Dodo Juice Blue Velvet Wax be a better option?  PH is a soft wax and BV is a hard wax.

I've never used these products specifically but, I have used Dodo Juice products designed for lighter cars. From what I've seen the Soft waxes look a little better (deeper if you will), and the Hard waxes last longer. If I were you I would go with the hard wax you will still get a very nice shine, and it will need to be applied less.

i have blue velvet samples but havent tried it yet. too many waxes to try

Placed my order Greg.  Bummer about the nozzle but oh well.

It's really a matter of personal preference, there are no huge advantages of either option over the other one.  Both are paint safe and work well.

Greg @ DI

Yes you can use the P21S Gel Wheel Cleaner and the Chemical Guys Diablo Wheel Cleaner on them safely.

Greg @ DI

If they are chrome you can use any metal polish on them, the only problem is it may be tough to not get it all over the other areas.  If you are willing to take your time and be careful then I'd say you can go ahead.  

The Opti-Bond Tire Gel is outstanding and the Blackfire Long Lasting Tire Gel are both great options that are durable.  

I would pick the EX you are going to get more protection and arguably a better shine with this sealant and carnauba wax.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Greg @ DI

You can try to buff them out with a quality polish.  Knowing how aggressive you need to go depends on the depth of the scratches.  Start off with a nice light polish and use more aggressive ones as needed.  It's possible you will need a little wet sanding as well.

Greg @ DI

Both options are awesome and very popular on darker colors.  There is not a huge difference between them but if desired check out our selecting a Dodo Juice wax (http://www.detailedimage.com/Dodo-Juice-Pick-Wax/) page.  

Greg @ DI

Followed this advice to a T today. It took a long time but the results were amazing. Only I few things that didn't come out but, that was expected going in! Thanks for the awesome advice my car looks amazing!

I'm thrilled to hear the car came out so good!  If you have any pics I'd love to see them.  Keep up the great work!

Greg @ DI

There are some shots on page 104 of this thread http://elitecm.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=270&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&start=2575

You guys think this can be repaired without getting the bumper completely repainted?  

(http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/ikethegreat/repair.jpg)

(http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/ikethegreat/repair1.jpg)

(http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/ikethegreat/repair2.jpg)

Greg, do you guys have a headlight lense cleaning kit?

wetsanding would be required. most likely will not remove all but at least make it less visible
main part is to get white marks off. if its not through paint then possibly spraying it with clear paint and wetsanding to level with original clear

Whats the difference between cleaner wax and carnauba wax?

well kinda hard to say couse cleaner wax might contain carnauba as well
cleaner wax most of the time contains pure carnauba wax with a light polishing agent to remove old wax this is pretty much used as one step product, it will remove old wax and most contamination and apply fresh layer of wax, it is not as good as separate products, when you combine several steps in one you gona sacrifice something

Makes sense, thanks!

Looking really good thanks for sharing those pics!

Tough to say for sure until you try some options.  I would probably first wash and clay the area.  If there is any paint transfer from the other vehicle/object you hit it should come off.  You can then try polishing it to see if any really light imperfections may come out.  After that you may have to try some light wet sanding.  Start off with a higher level grit and use more aggressive ones as need be.  We have virtually every grit you could need if interested:
Meguiar's 1000 Grade - Unigrit Finishing Sand Paper (http://www.detailedimage.com/Meguiars-M43/1000-Grade-Unigrit-Finishing-Sand-Paper-P391/)
Meguiar's 1200 Grade - Unigrit Finishing Sand Paper (http://www.detailedimage.com/Meguiars-M43/1200-Grade-Unigrit-Finishing-Sand-Paper-P392/)
Meguiar's 1500 Grade - Unigrit Finishing Sand Paper (http://www.detailedimage.com/Meguiars-M43/1500-Grade-Unigrit-Finishing-Sand-Paper-P393/)
Meguiar's 2000 Grade - Unigrit Finishing Sand Paper (http://www.detailedimage.com/Meguiars-M43/2000-Grade-Unigrit-Finishing-Sand-Paper-P394/)
Meguiar's 2500 Grade - Unigrit Finishing Sand Paper (http://www.detailedimage.com/Meguiars-M43/2500-Grade-Unigrit-Finishing-Sand-Paper-P395/)
Meguiar's 3000 Grade - Unigrit Finishing Sand Paper (http://www.detailedimage.com/Meguiars-M43/3000-Grade-Unigrit-Finishing-Sand-Paper-P396/9-x-55-S1/)

You may need a little touch up paint for some of the worst areas, which should be followed up by a light wet sanding and polishing.  If that doesn't work a full re-paint would be needed.

Greg @ DI

We have a detailed write up on how to do and the products needed - http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-Pro/ ... n-process/ (http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-Pro/headlight-restoration-process/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;).  If you have any questions please let me know.

A cleaner wax will contain chemical cleaning agents and natural carnauba wax.  These products help clean the surface by removing old coats of protection (sealant or wax), oxidation and sometimes ultra fine imperfections.  It will also leave some protection behind but generally it's extremely limited.  A polish with sealant (i.e.  Klasse All In One (AIO) (http://www.detailedimage.com/Klasse-M6/All-In-One-AIO-P54/500-ml-S1/) and Optimum (OPT) Poli-Seal (http://www.detailedimage.com/Optimum-OPT-M36/Poli-Seal-P292/32-oz-S1/)) will do the same thing but will give you far longer lasting protection.  

A natural carnauba wax is designed to protect your paint and enhance the way your paint already looks.  It will protect for a couple weeks on average (roughly 2 - 4 weeks).

Greg @ DI

Soooooo after a detailing session I threw three white pads in a bucket of pad cleaner, let them soak over night, wrung them out, and put them on a shelf in the shed to dry.  They were perfectly clean when I put them on the shelf.  Now several weeks later, here is how they look.  Notice the red and black mold (I assume its mold).  How do I get them to dry without getting moldy?  


(http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/ikethegreat/pads.jpg)

I'm guessing this just came from the pads being damp.  To clean the pads I usually soak them in a bucket in a cleaner (i.e. Snappy, P21S total Auto Wash) massaging it firmly with my hands and then thoroughly rinse them out.  When you are done I spin them on a rotary buffer or thoroughly wring them out by hand.  I usually leave them out in the sun and go back and wring them out one more time.  Some people put them in the dryer on low heat but I don't personally.  After you are done test them on the back of a CD you don't care about.  Assuming it doesn't scratch it you should be able to use them no problems.

Greg @ DI

looks like mold. had that happen to me once, had to trash them. try to wash them in some kinda all purpose cleaner. i air dry mine or put them on my PC and get all water out. then air dry them didnt had problem. could be that something in shed got on them too and start growing

I usually air dry mine, and then put them into a freezer bad to store them.

2 Questions:

1. What is the best way to clean inbetween your seats and the center console? My girlfriends CM is trashed and I'm afraid the only way to clean under/inbetween her seats is to actually take them out, and I really don't want to do that.

2. What compound would you recommend to take out some scratches caused by a large dog? Neighbor dog jumped up on the Accord and dug his nails in all the way down. The scratches don't catch with my fingernail so I'm hoping they can be polished out instead of sanded. (I can upload pics if necessary)

BTW: Awesome thread. Lots of very useful information, thanks DI.

Honestly, it's really not that hard to take the seats out.  It's only 4 bolts and one electrical connection.  IMHO, that's the best way to get that area clean.

just be carefull with airbags if you have them. follow procedure how to diconect them

if im using a LC orange pad (light cut) with my 7424 and it takes me like 5 passes to get some scratches out... does it mean i should have used like a medium cut pad instead? or does it mean i just need a stronger compound? currently using optimum compound.

also, is there a way to fix rock chips or damage from people parking into my car with their plates without repainting the whole thing?

thanks!

Rock chips you can use touch up paint, and then wet sand, then polish and they end up looking better but, not perfect. If people parking have actually left dents I don't know how you could fix that without some sort of filler and paint.

It depends on the exact spacing of the seat how I approach it.  If possible taking them out is the most thorough way but I've typically had very good results without needing to do this.  I start off by removing any obvious/large items that have become lost underneath the seat and on the sides.  Next move the seat either all the way back or forward.  I then get my vacuum out and I really like a long and thin attachment on it to get in to the worst areas.  If there are stains or if you just want a thorough cleaning mist the 303 Cleaner and Spot Remover (or other fabric cleaner) on those areas and brush the fabric.  Now move the seat all the way in the opposite direction (forward or back) and repeat the same process on the other side.  Usually just moving the seat this much is a huge help!  The 303 cleaner is highly effective on all fabrics, I also use it to clean a lot of the remaining interior (console, doors, trim, etc.).  If you have any other questions please let me know.  

Fixing scratches depends directly on how deep it is.  I would start off with a light polish and use more aggressive ones as needed.  If that doesn't work move on to a light wet sanding followed by the polishes.  If that doesn't work you'll need some touch up work done, but they don't sound too bad.  If you need any polish recommendations please let me know.  This task can be done by hand but a buffer may also be very helpful.  

Glad to hear the posts have been helpful!  I hope this one helps as well and we look forward to hearing from you again!

The orange pad from Lake Country is a light to medium cutting pad and 5 passes is very normal.  I usually work a polish in for a while doing several sets of passes up and down and then left to right.  To get more cutting power I would consider making sure the speed is at 6, apply a light to medium pressure to the back of the buffer and work slowly with lots of overlapping passes.  After that you should be able to get optimal results with the products you have.  A more aggressive pad and polish could help like the yellow pad and Menzerna Power Gloss, just be sure to follow up with lighter pad and polish combos.  Additionally the PC does have it's limitations how much it can buff out.  It's possible a rotary buffer could be needed to buff out certain imperfections.  

Rock chips will need some touch up paint (followed by wet sanding and polishing) or a re-paint of that section.  If you have any other questions please let me know!

Greg @ DI

wow, so i should have the pc running @ 6? ive been working it @ 2-3 like the bottle says..... if i run it @ 6.... how do you guys handle the vibration? i cant do more than 15min @ 4 since it vibrates like crazy and my hand goes numb.. is there a way to counter that? im running 6.5 pads and i have the 6.5 counter weight already.

Wear a glove not so thick that you can't feel what your doing but, thick enough to help reduce the vibration.

For best results when polishing it is critical to use the PC or Flex at speed 4 or higher.  If you are comfortable with speed 6 then go for it.  To help reduce vibration make sure the buffer is flat and apply light to medium pressure to the unit.  Another big help is when you wash the vehicle where a rubber glove so your hands stay dry.  Sometimes if my hands are a little damp or cold after washing the buffer is noticeably more difficult to hold, otherwise it doesn't bother me too much.

should have gotten 4" pads and meguairs polisher, we have both at shop and i have meguairs and for some reason its a lot less vibrations then PC even though its same thing aperently. new pc 7424xp supposedly quieter and less vibrations. still i think g100 less vibrations and quieter.

you usualy take 1-2 minute brake between 3-4 min runs. to wipe polish and check surface for what you missed. 2-3 is for waxing and grazing. polishing is 5-6(always 6 for me. wish it was faster, but then i have rotary for faster jobs

thanks a lot for the info, i will try again when i have a longer stretch of time off. hopefully it will be a success this time =D

How safe is the Chemical Guys Water Spot Remover for my car's paint?  I have spots on my trunk and hood that I think are water spots and no amount of waxing or claying will remove them.

It's pretty safe to use the Chemical Guys Water Spot Remover even on your first attempt.  I wear gloves when using it and just use common sense.  It helps remove light to medium etchings pretty effectively.  If they are medium to heavy you may need to polish them to remove the imperfections.  If you want to polish I would start with a light cutting polish and use more aggressive ones as needed.  A buffer will be a huge help in working in a polish for best results.  If this process interests you please let me know.  

Greg @ DI

hi. I was wondering whats the best way to wax ur car?.. I have always washed and waxed it but I haven't really looked in dept of how to actually properly wax my car. I have clayed my car like 2 times and since I havent done it. I would like to get Ur suggestion for a noob like me in this area. my main goal is to properly clean the car inside out.

Do some reading bro.  There are plenty of threads and links on this forum to answer your questions. BTW cleaning your car and waxing are two different things. Wax does nothing to "clean" your car, its a sacrificial layer to protect your paint.

Neel,

Take a look at the  Detailed Image Detailing Guide (http://www.detailedimage.com/Auto-Detailing-Guide/) if you are looking for specific products to use (I believe your car is silver) there is a list that Greg put together for me a few pages back in this thread.

Greg. do you have guide on which wax to use for which color car? i have a lot of waxes and would be nice to know which to use for which color car. some say which color its best on but some dont

i recently noticed my door seal is starting to crack, do i need to replace it or is there a fix for it?

what you mean crack? if rubber part physicaly cracked its better to replace it and use rubber conditioner from now on. it will help in winter as well so door wont stick in cold weather

well its not cracked cracked... the rubber is mostly black and still looks good but where it bends or folds when the door closes on it has turned white and looks like it is dying/cracking.. not torn yet

You could apply  Aerospace 303 (http://www.detailedimage.com/303-M2/Aerospace-Protectant-P12/16-oz-S1/) to it to extend the life, and maybe get some of the color back. Obviously application would need to be done before it tears.

Thanks for the inquiry and I'm happy to help.  It sounds like you are looking for a full detailing routine to help take your detailing to the next level.  It sounds like you already have been washing, using a clay bar and protecting the paint with a wax.  The only major piece you are missing is using a polish that will help remove oxidation, light swirls, etc. and help restore a brilliant finish to the paint.  I generally recommend a two step process for best results with a quality medium and light polish.  The Meguiar's M105 and M205 or the Menzerna PO83 and PO106FA are two of my favorite combos that provide outstanding results.  Use them after the wash and clay bar and follow up with a sealant and/or wax.  If you have any other questions please let me know.  

For the interior you can do a full detail with either the:
http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Package ... -Kit-P152/ (http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Packages-M29/Interior-Starter-Kit-P152/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;) OR
http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Package ... Care-P151/ (http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Packages-M29/Ultimate-Interior-Care-P151/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;)

As mentioned above the Detailed Image Detailing Guide (http://www.detailedimage.com/Auto-Detailing-Guide/ (http://www.detailedimage.com/Auto-Detailing-Guide/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;)) will be a huge help to you.  It has tons of great tips and step by step instructions.



Replacing it is the only way to make it look like new again.  The 303 Aerospace Protectant can help protect it from UV rays.  The Black WOW can help make it look darker again.  However neither option will fix the crack, just improve the appearance.

I don't have a wax guide for all colors.  The only wax chart we have is for all the Dodo Juice Waxes - http://www.detailedimage.com/Dodo-Juice-Pick-Wax/ (http://www.detailedimage.com/Dodo-Juice-Pick-Wax/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;).  We've thought about making one but it's tough because so much of it is subjective.  Additionally there is very flat and metallic colors that totally change the look of any one color.  Silver can mean 100x different things depending on each individual car.  We try to highlight some of that information in the product descriptions but I know a chart could be really helpful.  If you ever would like a recommendation for a color please let me know and I can do my best to help.

Greg,

I have a few questions.  First, my car will be re-painted in few weeks (hopefully) after some body work I had done to shave badges and moldings and a few minor body modifications.  I will be having my entire car re-sprayed.  Since I know it will be getting a fresh coat of paint, I'm going to use this as an opportunity to practice on the old paint in case I make a mistake.  Is there anything you can suggest that I do to have my car prepped before being painted?  After I get it painted, is there anything you would suggest that I do to maintain the new finish?  From what I know, I should not polish or wax it for a period of time after it's been painted.  

My other question is about products and packages that you offer.  I already have a ton of different polishes, waxes, and other detailing products.  The one thing that I'm missing in my line of "stuff" is a proper set of pads for my PC.  What would you suggest as a "starter" package of pads?  I've been looking at the Lake Country 6.5" and 5" pads.  What would be the benefit of the larger and smaller pads?

Thanks for your help.

What shampoo would you suggest?

Tim,

What drying process are you using after the car is painted? Heating up the booth or heat lamp? If it's heat lamp more experienced painters can get the clear to dry and be waxable right after it's done. My mom's MDX's bumper got repainted and the paint matching was perfect and the clear coat didn't have orange peal and was also perfect and waxable.

Otherwise the typical wait time before waxing is 90 days.

It will be dried in a booth.

good to hear Tim. im sure you wont tell us the color till its done. not sure what kinda prep needed to repaint. id say degrease the car completely so it doesnt have any wax on it, doesnt have bugs or tar anywhere. not sure how painters do prep, if they wetsand it before applying primer or what.
also find out what kinda clear coat gona be used, most aftermarter once are pretty hard but not as hard as ceramic clear thats used on VW and MB and some other makes

usualy you have to wait 3-6 month before you can wax/seal the car so all gasses from paint can escape during that time, if you put sealant on the car it will trap all gasses that need to escape and paint can get fucked up.

do you know if car gona be wetsanded after it dries?
we have rsx that just been painted by my friend and we have to wetsand it and polish it, it will be fun project to see how mirror like we can get it.

now to pads, id go with smaller pad, i use 5" for ether flat area or doing final polish since no correction work needed there, smaller pad will create heat faster which is key to paint correction, smaller pad uses less polish so you will waste less as well. so with larger pad it will take more polish and probably more time to fix the paint. since your car relatively flat you can go with 5.5" pads, maybe get 4" for tight areas but then you gona need 3.5" backing plate as well.

Oh man we have so many good shampoos it's really hard to say.  If you want to remove left over wax and sealant the Chemical Guys Citrus Wash is awesome (http://www.detailedimage.com/Chemical-G ... /16-oz-S1/ (http://www.detailedimage.com/Chemical-Guys-M31/Citrus-Wash-P410/16-oz-S1/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;)).  If you just want a maintenance shampoo that doesn't remove any sealant or wax the Chemical Guys Maxi Suds, Poorboy's World Super Slick and Suds, Dodo Juice Born to be Mild and so many others are awesome.  Best of all they are all on sale through 5/12, if you click here - http://www.detailedimage.com/Sales/Sham ... 0-Off-SP5/ (http://www.detailedimage.com/Sales/Shampoo-Sale-Up-to-50-Off-SP5/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;).  If you have any questions please let me know!

Before hand I'm not sure if anything should be done.  If you are taking it to a good shop I would think it would not matter too much.  However if you want to clean it and strip off contaminants and old sealant or wax I think that could help potentially.  I think practicing on the old paint is fine assuming you are being reasonable with it.  After having it painted

I'm surprised to hear it's being baked, that is very rare.  Assuming it's being baked I believe you can wash and protect the paint like normal after about a week.  Consult the shop for exact time frames.  I would just be extremely cautious with your washing process and I'd protect it with a sealant and/or wax as soon as you can.  Check out our Detailing Guide to make sure you have the best techniques for washing and drying.  Additionally you need quality products to ensure you don't add swirls to the surface.  For protection I would definitely use a sealant like the Blackfire Wet Diamond or Menzerna Power Lock.  Both are extremely durable and easy to use, while making any color look awesome.  If desired layer a wax on top of it for added protection and gloss!  Let me know the color and I can provide a recommendation if desired.  

For orbital buffer the smaller pads get more polishing/cutting power.  Other than the size doesn't impact the detail too much, more personal preference.  All three sizes are fine, I generally suggest the 4" or 5.5". Here is a general guideline for the pads and what products they work best with:

Yellow and Purple Foam  - Medium to Heavy Cutting
Orange and Cyan - Medium Cutting
Green - Light Cutting
White and Tangerine - Polishing Pad
Black and Crimson - Fine Polishing Pad
Blue - Ultra Fine Polishing Pad

We have several kits with quantity discounts on our site if interested.  You can have any combination of pads you'd like by adding a comment to the comment field while checking out.  If you have any other questions please let me know.

Thanks Misha and Greg for your help.  For the color, it's going to remain the factory Satin Silver Metallic.  I was going to do a color change to Starlight Black Pearl, but decided against it because of the work involved in a color change, and the maintenance involved with a black car.  I trust the shop because the painter is my friend.  The shop he works out of has a heated paint booth, so I am positive it will be baked after it is painted.  I will take whatever advice my friend gives for prep before the paint and maintenance after the paint is dry.  I am just unsure if I should seal it as soon as possible, or if it will need any wet sanding or polishing first.  Considering that I will have new paint, which pads would be recommended?  I have a lot of products that I'm actually looking to phase out and replace with something new, specifically polish and wax.

When I had 48% of my car resprayed last year they "color sanded" and buffed it.

For silver paint the P21S Carnauba Wax is a nice choice!  My other favorites are Dodo Juice Light Fantastic or the Dodo Juice Diamond White!  All of these are great on silver and will provide solid protection.  After it's repainted it shouldn't need any wet sanding if the shop does great work.  It's possible you may need to polish it if you want perfection, but again this just depends on what the shop does.  If it needs to be polished I'd highly recommend looking at the Menzerna or Meguiar's line of polishes.  If the paint is being baked dry I would definitely apply the sealant within a week to the paint.  It should be a major help in protecting the finish.  After that you can apply the wax of your choice as well.  Let me know if you have any other questions.

Thanks Greg.  I have some Meguiars polish and glaze, but I have been wanting to try the Menzerna polishes.  Which Menzerna polishes would you recommend using?  I have wanted to get the Dodo Juice Light Fantastic and Diamond White.  From what I've read, whether I choose the hard or soft wax, it's all about personal preference.  Which sealant would you recommend?  You recommended the Menzerna Power Lock previously.  

I will be helping out with a lot of the prep work, so I'll have plenty of opportunities to talk to my painter about when the best time to polish, seal, and wax will be.  It seems that the best course of action will be to wait until the paint has cured fully, then polish, seal, and wax.

if you want paint perfect after then you will have to wetsand it. i dont think its possible not to have orange peel after painting, even high end cars go through factory wetsanding to get mirror finish without orange peel. unfortunatly i seen pics of lambos and aston martins after their factory wetsanding,  they dont do good job of polishing after that.

get menzerna 203(powerfinish), meguairs 105 (compound) and either menz 85rd or menz 106 (difference between 106 and 85rd is that 106 has more cut(2.5) but same finishing gloss like 85rd which has cut of 1) so those 3 should be great combo, i love 105. 106 will be good later on to do maitanace polishing, still havent tried megs 205.

i want to try powerlock soon but we have 2 full bottles of BFWD

me and Nick gona be placing order with DI pretty soon, probably after weekends

I really love the Megs M105 and M205 combo, from Menzerna I most commonly use the PO83 and then follow up with the PO106FA, but you can also use a combination of the PO203S and PO85RD.  If you check out the Menzerna Polishing Chart (http://www.detailedimage.com/Menzerna-Polishing-Chart/ (http://www.detailedimage.com/Menzerna-Polishing-Chart/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;)) that should help you pick them out.  

The Dodo Juice Light Fantastic and Diamond White are both outstanding and very similar.  One is a sot wax and the other is a hard wax which still only produces minimal differences.  Check out our Dodo Juice informational page if you'd like to read more (http://www.detailedimage.com/Dodo-Juice-Pick-Wax/ (http://www.detailedimage.com/Dodo-Juice-Pick-Wax/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;)).  For lighter colors they looks amazing and Dodo Juice makes some of the most durable waxes I have tested.

For sealants my two favorites are the Blackfire Wet Diamond and Menzerna Power Lock.  Both of them are outstanding in both their durability, shine and ease of use.  You can't go wrong with either one!

Good luck with the re-paint and I can't wait to see the final product!  If you can take some pictures along the way that'd be awesome as well.

I've used the Diamond White on my Mom's white charger and my Dad's silver tundra.  Both turned out great.  It's expensive stuff but does a great job.  The Purple Haze is what I use on my graphite pearl accord and it looks beautiful.

What's the best way to get rid of the white wax residue out of the cracks between panels and other various places? Should I just use a soft toothbrush or something? Thanks.

A toothbrush can potentially leave ultra fine scratches on the surface so don't use that unless it's absolutely necessary.  I usually spray a light degreaser (P21S Total Auto Wash (http://www.detailedimage.com/P21S-M14/Total-Auto-Wash-P87/1000-ml-Kit-S1/)) or something similar on a microfiber towel.  I open the doors, etc. to expose the cracks and remove as much as possible by agitating the surface.  If you have any on the rubber, vinyl or plastic trim I really like the Poorboy's World Trim Restorer (http://www.detailedimage.com/Poorboys-World-M1/Trim-Restorer-P35/16-oz-S1/).  It helps clean and protect the trim so it looks more like new again.  If you can remove the white marks as soon as possible in the future as they become more challenging to remove when the sun bakes them in.  If you have any questions please let me know.

Well, the problem is, using a regular towel doesn't reach to all the small places. Areas like the rear corner panels, around the taillights, and around the weather strips on the roof are extremely hard to get to with a towel. Is there anything else I can use together into those small cracks?

Sometimes wrapping the microfiber towel on the end of something long and thin (not to sharp though) helps force the towel in to tight spaces.  For rubber and vinyl trim you can hit them with a brush but you definitely do not want to use that brush near the paint.  Another option is to tape off the paint (i.e. Meguiar's Masking Tape) and then use a brush so you can get closer to the edge.  Hopefully some combination of these options will help.

Sometimes I use a Q-Tip probably not the best advice but, I have had good results.

So, I was bringing my grandparents dogs home, two maltese, and they both had diarrhea all over the passenger. Luckily I decided to not take mine. The car, LS460, I was in though has perforated seats for the cool seat function. There is a bunch of shit in the perforations, how should I go about getting that out. I tried turning the seats on high, no luck. I am afraid if the heated seats are used it will create a horrible smell and I really just don't want dog excrement on the seat. Thanks!

hmm, im sure its leather sets. did you try leather brush and leather cleaner?
if you can try steamer through microfiber towel or maybe get extractor?

maybe Greg has better suggestion

Dude, I'd shoot the dogs and then get that fancy shcmancy extractor thing Misha talked about.

I tried leather cleaner and a fiber towel. I'll try a brush. I don't have a steamer so that would be a no go.


That wont work. I couldn't afford to replace the dogs, they might shoot me, and they would take me out of the will.

Go rent one.

if it were me, i'd have the seat reupholstered or buy a new seat.

Not a bad idea.

pathmark and acme supermarkets rent extractors for carpet but they have attachment for small stuff like couches and stuff, works great,

at some point we need to get one for shop but they are like $800

Those things are probably a lot better than the Bissell Little Green that I've been using.

Ha! Yeah right. That is probably a $3,000 investment to replace the seat and I wouldn't trust anyone around here to reupholster the seat. It has the upgraded leather, semi-aniline, not really sure what it is but I doubt anyone around here would either. Thanks for the suggestions guys. Sounds like it is going to require renting equipment to get it done right, so I think I will just take it to a detailer.

you mean alkantara? kinda like microfiber feel to it?

No, semi-aniline. I think it has to do with natural look and stain resistance. The headliner is Alcantara in the LS460L and LS460L AWD.

Here is the Lexus description of semi-aniline: This extremely soft leather is dyed all the way through, unlike conventional surface dyes. A higher grade of leather must be used, since imperfections cannot be hidden.

I don't know. I guess we will see what the detailer can do. I can assure you though, the seat won't be replaced. The car will probably be replaced soon anyways. It's going on 4 years old and that is the record. So, we will see. I'm taking my car Tuesday so I'll take it too.

Oh man that's a terrible situation.  If the dog is in the car I recommend having a blanket or seat cover, they always make a mess but this is extreme.  I know it's gross but put on some rubber gloves and you have to wipe away any remaining residue.  For the little holes it will be much tougher to clean. Since I'm not exactly sure about the material I'm honestly not sure what I would try.  If it's leather the Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil and Prestine Clean are my products of choice.  However I know the mfg does not recommend them on some ultra suede or extremely soft leathers so I'm hesitant to use it.  If you can find the appropriate cleaner and conditioner that would probably be my next step.

I just wanted to let everyone know that I'm back on this forum.  I couldn't access the site for a while so I gave up on it until I got notification today about a comment on my feedback profile.  Not sure why they didn't e-mail members with an update when it went back online but I'm happy to be back on the forum.  If you have any detailing questions for me I'd be happy to try and help you out. 

Welcome back Greg.. You could have emailed me and asked what was up. We had to under go some upgrades